Dog Behaviour

Slippery floors and dogs

These days it’s common for many houses to have laminate, wooden or tiled flooring. Often people already have it in the house before they have got their dog or puppy home. 

The trouble is dogs really struggle with slippery floors and have to work very hard to stabilise on them. For them it can be like walking on ice on a daily basis. 

You may notice when asking them to sit their feet splay out or worse knees and hips and many end up lying frequently even when they don’t actually want to. This is a real risk with puppies that are still growing sustaining long term joint issues.

It can make dogs restless as they have to fight to stabilise constantly, making micro adjustments as they regularly walk across the floor, this can cause anxiety in some dogs and can impact other fear related behaviours.

More importantly it often causes nagging injuries, strains, joint problems and more. Now your dog may not be showing any signs of pain physically but remember dogs are stoic they often do not show any lameness or limping until their pain level is about a 6 and often only vocalise pain when it’s at its highest. 

Tips to reduce the risks:

  1. Use anti slip rugs and runners strategically placed, when coming in through door ways at the bottom of the stairs and to break large surfaces up. Anti slip tape can be used for stairs.
  2. Make sure their beds are anti slip too as getting on them can cause strains if they move, you can use the anti slip tape to put on the bottom of them rather than buying new beds.
  3. Ensure bowls, snuffle mats etc are anti slip or on an anti slip surface like a silicone tray and the dog is standing on a secure surface when using.
  4. Use paw wax or paw grip spray when visiting venue that have slippery surfaces, this can help some dogs gain traction when walking across the surface.
  5. Have paw hair trimmed professionally, paw fur can make it very difficult to get any grip at all whilst walking and keep nails trimmed.
  6. Do not play on slippery surfaces, play only on carpeted areas or in the garden.
  7. Keep the surface dry and thoroughly wipe dogs feet when it’s been wet.
  8. Do not ask them to sit on an unstable surfaces.
  9. You can get pet safe anti slip surface sprays or paint this coats the flooring so there is more grip. 
  10. If you can afford it for the long term replacing flooring with an anti slip surface would be ideal.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

What Dogs Like

As some of you may know, I have recently published a children’s book called “What Dogs Like“, a story in rhyme with an important safety message on bite prevention. Nearly 80% of dog bites are from the family or a friends dog. Written as a read-along-rhyme with informative illustrations, “What dogs Like” helps educate young people as well as their parents, on how to behave around their canine friends.

What inspired me to write this particular book was a few things; my little boy, the news with headlines like “family dog attacked out of the blue” and the many uncomfortable pictures/videos shared on social media on a daily basis, with children sometimes laying on, picking up or maybe even hugging their dog, with the dog using as many signals as possible to indicate it is not comfortable.

Firstly it is very rare for dogs to just bite out of the blue, unless there is an underlying medical condition, dogs give many subtle signals way before they growl, bark or bite. It’s a credit to the majority of dogs that most tolerate us as adults let alone younger children who are often unpredictable and are learning and investigating the world themselves, which often includes poking and prodding the family dog. I work with many dogs that have bitten or are close to that stage and their owners are often shocked that it has happened, commenting that they felt like it came out of the blue, but then when we go back through the dogs history, there has been a number of times the dog had been indicating its fearful, frustrated or just uncomfortable. Even if your dog appears to be ok, tolerates the children and hasn’t ever reacted negatively, does not mean they are comfortable.

It’s time for parents to help educate children and themselves and be an expert on what their dog and others are trying to tell us. Recognising the many subtle signals dogs use, way before they have to even growl. Lets all work together at reducing bite statistics to an all time low in children (and adults)!

Signs to look for:

  • Dog avoids children (not always as obvious with your own) often taking its self into another room when others visit
  • Pulling head back, turning away or backing off, ears back
  • Showing the whites of their eyes cautiously glaring, looking unsure
  • Yawning when not tired
  • Constantly panting
  • Tongue flick when no food is present
  • Hard eyes like they are concentrating or just staring
  • Tense Stiff Body and Tail, with mouth often closed

Common times these behaviours are displayed:

  • When being picked up
  • When approached especially when resting, eating or playing with a toy
  • When patted on the head
  • When being cuddled and restrained
  • When being dressed up
  • When being handled
  • When punishing them
  • When being forced to do something they don’t want to do

What to do:

  • If you have real concerns, seek a qualified dog behaviour advisor please see the following link to find yours http://capbt.org/findabehaviourist.php
  • Always ensure your dog has somewhere they can retreat to, where they will not be disturbed.
  • Pair the arrival of children with something that the dog doesn’t normally get, a tasty toy or chew but again ensure they have this where they will not be disturbed.
  • Help your dog out, if they are giving any of the above signals, redirect the child away from the dog, so the dog does not have to resort to growling, barking or biting to make the child go away.
  • Teach children the rules:
  1. When eating, resting and sleeping leave the dog alone.
  2. Dog must stay on the ground (No picking the dog up!).
  3. Adults manage unwanted behaviour in the dog, not children (No telling the dog off).
  4. No touching the dogs collar, no leading them around by it or pushing the dog around.
  5. Stroking must be on the dogs terms; ask the child to call the dog over, if the dog comes it probably is happy to be stroked but if it doesn’t come forward, leave the dog alone.
  6. When stroking the dog pause and see if the dog wants to move away, if they don’t carry on stroking.
  7. Stroking must be from collar to tail on the side or a scratch on the chest.
  8. If the children want to engage with the dog, let them hide a few treats or the dogs toy (if he is comfortable with that), around the house and get the dog to “find it”, always under adult supervision.

The Family Dog does some great videos to help children on appropriate behaviour around dogs see stopthe77.com

“What Dogs Like” is available in both paperback and digital on Amazon.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Banish the Food Bowl

Providing dogs with appropriate mental and environmental stimulation is increasingly recognised as an important part of supporting their overall wellbeing. While enrichment on its own is unlikely to resolve complex behaviour challenges, research consistently shows that opportunities to forage, problem-solve, sniff and work for food can play a valuable role in reducing boredom, supporting emotional health and giving dogs appropriate outlets for natural behaviours.

One simple way to introduce more variety into a dog’s day is through interactive feeding.

For many years, most dogs have been fed from a bowl once or twice daily because that suits our routines. Some dogs cope perfectly well with this, but others appear less enthusiastic taking food from the bowl to eat elsewhere, leaving meals unfinished, or grazing throughout the day. Feeding patterns can influence appetite, arousal levels and digestion, and many professionals now recommend splitting daily rations into multiple meals where possible.

When we look at dogs’ evolutionary history, it isn’t surprising that working for food appeals to many of them. Research into free-living dogs shows they typically spend much of their day scavenging and searching for small food opportunities rather than eating one predictable meal. Even wild canids invest far more time in seeking food than consuming it. Although most modern dogs live as companions, motivations to sniff, investigate and forage remain part of their behavioural repertoire something we see when dogs hover in the kitchen, raid bins, or vacuum up anything remotely edible on walks.

That doesn’t mean we should encourage dogs to hunt wildlife or neighbourhood cats but it does suggest that providing safe, ethical alternatives can be worthwhile.

Stimulation Without Frustration

Interactive feeding should feel engaging, achievable and enjoyable for the dog. Current thinking around enrichment highlights the importance of matching activities to the individual: their age, physical health, emotional state, learning history and level of arousal, varying it regularly too is important once a dogs got the hang of it.

An activity that is too difficult, overly exciting or prolonged can tip some dogs into frustration or overstimulation rather than helping them settle. Likewise, food toys shouldn’t be used simply to distract dogs from underlying anxiety, fear or difficulty relaxing those concerns deserve careful assessment and tailored behaviour support. In some cases, offering high-effort feeding activities at the wrong moment can actually increase agitation or make it harder for a dog to switch off.

The goal is not to exhaust dogs or mask problems, but to give them appropriate outlets alongside plenty of opportunities for rest, sleep and calm sniffing walks.

How Often Should Dogs Eat?

Many dogs appear to do well when their daily food is divided into at least two meals rather than offered as one large portion, although some individuals may genuinely prefer a single feed. Others seem to thrive on three or four smaller meals spread across the day, particularly when those meals are incorporated into low-pressure enrichment activities. What this looks like will depend on the individual dog and the household routine but mealtimes can become gentle opportunities for engagement rather than something rushed or highly repetitive.

Ideas for Interactive Feeding

Variety helps keep things interesting, and it’s important to keep tasks achievable—especially at first.

  • Scatter feeding: Toss dry food across the kitchen floor, lawn or a quiet patch on a walk (away from other dogs). Snuffle mats work in a similar way and can be homemade.
  • Hide and seek: Place small piles of food around a room or garden. Initially let your dog watch, then gradually hide them out of sight and add a cue like “find it”.
  • Food-dispensing toys: Classics such as Kongs or Squirrel Dudes can be used with loose kibble, soaked and frozen meals, or wet food. Multiple toys can be hidden around the house to extend the search. These can be useful when visitors arrive—provided the dog finds them calming rather than over-arousing.
  • Commercial puzzle feeders: Options like wobblers or activity mats can be great, as long as they don’t push the dog into frustration. If you notice frantic behaviour, vocalising or repeated abandoning of the toy, it’s a sign the challenge may need adjusting.

Homemade Options (Always Supervised)

Many simple household items can be adapted for food-based enrichment, provided they suit the individual dog and are used with supervision. Remove items once empty and discontinue anything that could pose a choking or swallowing risk.

If your dog enjoys shredding or chewing, keep a close eye on them and remove items once empty. Stop completely if there’s any risk of swallowing pieces.

  • Snuffle mats
  • Refilled marrow bones
  • Slightly split tennis balls stuffed with food
  • Cardboard boxes layered with fleece, towels or cartons for dogs who enjoy digging and shredding
  • Blankets or towels rolled with treats between the folds
  • Clean, dry juice cartons with all plastic removed
  • Children’s ball pits with food scattered among the balls
  • Hiding the food bowl or small piles of food for your dog to search for

Some dogs may need a little help at first to understand how food comes out of a new toy. Showing them once or twice is fine, but then allow them to experiment problem-solving is part of what makes these activities mentally engaging.

Put toys away when finished so they stay novel, and balance food-based enrichment with rest, downtime and low-key activities such as sniffy walks.

If you’ve discovered enrichment ideas your dog loves, feel free to share them in the comments. Small changes to daily routines can make life more interesting and more comfortable for many dogs.

If you’d like tailored support for your dog or puppy, you can book a call with me below.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.