Category: Dog Training

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

How You Affect Your Dog

Joanne Hinds

Dogs are little mirrors they watch us constantly and can reflect our behaviour. If you are excited and optimistic you often see your dogs energy increase they might get a little excited and playful. A classic way of seeing this is when we tell our dog they are a good boy/girl this is not about the words initially as they do not speak our language, its about the way we deliver the words and how we behave when we do it is positive happy energy. How we feel, our energy, and our confidence all directly influence our dogs. 

Dogs are highly attuned to our body language, tone of voice, and even subtle changes in our energy and hormone levels through their amazing senses.

If you are someone whose energy is generally heightened and you’re constantly “on the go,” finding it difficult to relax, sit, or switch off, you may pace, feel restless or impatient, and struggle to wind down or sleep. Dogs can often mirror this arousal, which can make them more alert, more reactive to noises, and less able to rest even when tired, puppies generally will want to be close to care givers for a number of weeks and if this is our general state some puppies will not be getting the amount of rest they need. This can lead to increased connection-seeking behaviours, whining, over-arousal, over tiredness and unwanted behaviours.

If we feel stressed, restless, or anxious, or our moods are inconsistent or up and down, it can affect our dogs in a variety of ways. Puppies and adult dogs are highly sensitive to our energy and often mirror how we feel. They may:

  • Mirror our anxiety – showing increased restlessness, whining, being more clingy
  • Become defensive – in puppies, this can show as increased biting or mouthing, zoomies, growling, barking, stiff body language, or backing away or evening snapping
  • Try to take a protective role – like warning things away, even when they aren’t confident enough.
  • Become hesitant or less confident in new experiences.
  • Show appeasement behaviours – such as jumping up, nudging, or licking repeatedly, in an attempt to calm us or resolve tension.

All of these behaviours can sometimes increase our frustration, making us think the dog is misbehaving, when in fact they are responding to our own behaviour and coping to uncertainty. Understanding this helps us stay patient and aware, and allows us to respond calmly, setting our puppies up for confidence, trust, and positive experiences

Conversely, when we are calm, relaxed and consistent, it helps dogs feel safe, relaxed, and confident, creating a more positive and trusting relationship.

This isn’t about being perfect or beating yourself up when you are having a bad day. It’s about awareness, so you can setup both you and your dog up for success. Even small shifts in your energy can make a big difference. Puppies’ brains are wired to read human social cues from around 3–4 weeks old, paying attention long before we think they are.

Puppies aren’t blank slates either. Genetics, early handling, and their mother’s environment shape their temperament. Some may naturally be more nervous or cautious, so it’s not all about how we bring them up, our behaviour alone doesn’t erase their past, but it can shape how they respond and grow. Being aware of how we act around them is very important as they are developing and when we are socialising them and exposing them to their new world. Calm, confident, and consistent energy helps dogs feel safe, reassured, and willing to engage. Research shows that puppies with sensitive temperaments are especially influenced by caregiver behaviour, learning more quickly when interactions are predictable and positive. Puppies are especially sensitive between 3–12 weeks of age, a key socialisation period where early experiences have a strong and lasting influence. Calm, positive guidance during this time helps build confidence and sets them up for success as they grow.

In the wild, puppies look to their mother for guidance. If a puppy starts barking, it glances back to see her reaction. Calm signals like grooming, relaxing, or simply observing tell the puppy there is no cause for concern. If the mother is tense or scared, the puppy responds accordingly. Calm signals = relaxation; tense signals = concern.

As caregivers, we naturally step into that parental role. When a puppy seems unsure or worried and we respond with a concerned expression, or we scoop them up too quickly before they have had a chance to recover or approach us they can feel more uneasy. Of course, we always want to be a safe place for them to come to when they choose if they are genuinely frightened or struggling, offering comfort builds trust and them seeing we are not concerned will in turn will help them learn. Its still about working at their pace if we pressure them into situations before they’re ready or fail to support them when they really need it, it can affect their confidence and even future recall, because they may not see us as their go-to source of safety.

This is also why rushing to stop a puppy barking especially because we’re worried about neighbours can backfire. Barking is often a natural response to something sudden or surprising. If we react with anxiety or tension, they learn there is something to be worried about. Staying neutral helps them understand the world is safe and there’s no need for alarm.

Feelings are contagious our dogs read us more than we realise, just like we pick up on someone else’s bad mood. Staying steady, calm, and available shows them they’re safe and supported.

If you nature is a certain way that’s ok, sometimes we you might be better at being the one that provides comfort or fun, you just might want to introduce somethings with your puppy being in the arms of the calmer handler in the house. You will see over time that your dogs may be calmer with one person in the house more than the other, that’s due to their general energy. Some dogs, whether or adults respond more to whoever is clear, calm, confident and consistent. Dogs are social learners; they take cues from humans just as they would from their littermates or mother, helping them decide how to react to new situations this is important information when you are taking them out and about. Dogs thrive under predictable routines and clear communication. Being mindful of your energy helps dogs trust and relax, and ensuring good experiences.

What matters most is awareness and checking in with yourself. It’s not about being perfect or suppressing your feelings dogs can tell when you’re faking it. It’s about pausing and noticing, especially when managing your dog’s behaviour or supporting them after a reaction to something in the environment. Training works best when we’re in a good state of mind. If you’re tired, frustrated, or anxious, pause, breathe, and reset stress and worry always show up in your patience. Taking breaks isn’t a weakness; it’s a tool that helps both you and your dog. Even a short pause can stop tension building. Give yourself permission to step back, especially with young puppies, and don’t hesitate to ask for support when you need it.

Research shows that dogs supported by calm, confident handlers become more resilient in new places, around noises, and with other dogs. Your energy matters just as much as your training or your voice. By staying aware, calm, and consistent, you help your dog grow in confidence, build trust, and feel secure. It’s not about getting everything right it’s about being present and willing to try again, doing your best with awareness and care, and knowing that if you have a tough day, you’re human and there’s always another chance. One of the lovely parts of this process is that the mindfulness you offer your dog often helps calm your own nervous system too. Many of us bring dogs into our lives for support, and the beautiful thing is that we can offer that same sense of safety back to them.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

Why dog training should NOT involve punishment

Joanne Hinds

Increases fear and anxiety in dogs

Punishment can cause fear, anxiety, and stress in dogs, temporarily suppressing behaviours without addressing underlying issues, potentially leading to further problems.

Breaks down trust between you and your dog

Punishment can weaken the bond and trust between you and your dog. Your dog can start associating you with negative experiences, causing a deterioration in your relationship.

It can lead to aggression

Physical punishments or severe corrections can result in your dog becoming understandably defensive or fearful, potentially leading them to use aggressive behaviour towards you or others.

What is considered punishment?

Correcting your dog with the lead

Applying force on the lead like tugging or yanking to discourage unwanted behaviour.

Shouting at your dog

Using harsh words or tones to express disapproval along with intimidating body language.

Punishing dog equipment

Using water sprays, pet correctors, shake cans, shock collars,  choke chain, slip leads, spray collars or any equipment that scares or causes discomfort for the dog to deter behaviour.


Physical force

Using hitting, slapping, tapping, pinching, grabbing or any physical positioning popor restraining to discourage behaviour.

How do you manage unwanted dog behaviour then?

Preempt the dogs behaviour in advance

Address issues proactively by understanding the dog’s body language and triggers. Intervene early with cues to redirect behaviour. Provide mental and physical stimulation in advance, avoid triggers, or using tools like leads to prevent rehearsal. Manage unwanted behaviour while teaching alternatives.

Teach an incompatible behaviour

This involves training dogs to perform actions that cannot happen at the same time as unwanted behaviours. For instance, if a dog jumps on guests, teaching them four paws on the floor or to relax on their bed offers an alternative.

Use a positive interrupter

Teach a positive interrupter like a “kiss” “kiss” sound or a word like “hey” or “easy,” redirecting attention from unwanted to desirable behaviour. Praise or reward the dog’s response to foster positive communication and cooperation.

Training

Work on strengthening foundational training like leave, drop, come, wait and others, using positive based methods, practice in various situations, environments and around different distractions.

Teach a finished signal

Always teach a signal to indicate to a your dog when an activity like rewards, play and fuss has ended. This ensures they are not left limbo, helping avoid frustration which can lead to unwanted behaviour.


It can be tempting to go for a quick fix in dog training however they generally have a punishing component and can have a detrimental impact on your dogs mood and emotional state long term. Get support from a trainer or behaviourist that promotes kind, mindful, fair and positive methods.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

6 reasons why dogs jump up, its not just to say hello!

Joanne Hinds

Many dog owners prioritise stopping their dogs’ jumping behaviour, considering it a troublesome habit that can potentially pose a risk to others. While this perspective is right and understandable from a human point of view, it’s essential to recognise that from a dog’s standpoint, jumping serves as a means of communication, and there are several underlying motivations behind this behaviour for you to be able to address the issue effectively. This is also why the conventional advice of simply turning your back on the dog, does not prove effective for many, as it only yields results with a limited number of dogs.

There is also often a difference in how it’s managed with small and big dogs. Management and control of this behaviour is heavily focused on with large dogs, due to risk of injury however small dogs not so much. Small dogs often just being reprimanded when it happens when you have your best clothes on or they have muddy paws and are about to jump on a stranger, without training them what we prefer them to do.

Jumping up behaviors are indeed observed in dog-to-dog interactions, although they are less common compared to interactions with people. This difference can be attributed in part to human influence through selective breeding, resulting in variations in size and temperament among breeds. Additionally, mounting behaviours may occur for sexual activity, if excitement levels become excessive or if the interaction becomes too overwhelming. Jumping can also be seen in play between certain dogs or during moments of rising tension and during a fight. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for interpreting canine behaviour accurately.

In my view, it’s crucial to gain an understanding of the underlying causes before attempting to tackle this issue. This understanding can contribute to success for both you and your dogs relationship. Some of the motivations behind their behavior might even catch you by surprise. Additionally, I’ve provided a set of straightforward initial guidelines to assist you in addressing what you might perceive as nuisance behaviour while helping your dog convey their needs effectively.

Jumping up as a greeting

Certain dogs exhibit high excitement upon your return, expressing relief, joy, or sheer happiness at your presence. Unlike us, they walk on four legs, and if you observe their interactions, you’ll notice they frequently start by sniffing the mouth before proceeding to the rear, especially when greeting familiar canines. Our upright posture can lead some dogs, especially those with a more appeasing disposition, to aim for the facial area during greetings.

This behaviour can often be unintentionally reinforced during a dog’s early stages, where puppies may jump up in certain situations, and we initially encourage it when we interact with them as they are small and cute. As they grow older, we may become frustrated with this behaviour due to getting scratched or fed up with our clothes being dirtied, even though it was our initial encouragement that taught the behaviour, dogs tend to repeat behaviours that they find rewarding or reinforcing.

Commonly people manage jumping up by pushing the dog down, shouting, ignoring the dog completely, folding arms and turning away or a combination of all these responses. The problem with the above reactions is either the dog is getting attention for the behaviour you don’t want or goes into appeasement see below, because you are getting angry or they get frustrated/distressed because they are getting no feed back at all, which can lead to more desperate attempts to gain interaction.

  • Be mindful how over the top your interaction is when greeting them, your dog will match your energy. This is also not a normal greeting for a dog, so can make them feel in conflict, if you watch how adult dogs with good social skills greet you will see it’s much calmer.
  • Preempt the jumping before it happens and reach down to their level, stroking their chest/shoulder calmly for paws on floor, you do not need to insist on a sit in fact this can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot and escalate their jumping. Keep greetings short many dogs are not looking for physical touch
  • Give them a special toy to hold, this can work particularly well with retrieving breeds and dogs whom enjoy holding or parading with an item.
  • Drop treats to the floor or on to a mat or bed away from the entrance way, when greeting visitors/strangers making the visitor boring, drop until completely calm, ensure you do not loop jump at visitors gets treats, preempt the behaviour
  • If they jump pause any interaction, step back, no talking to them or touching until feet are back on the floor and then calmly stroke
  • Use a hand target to redirect them down, no pushing them.
  • Build on duration of pauses between strokes for dogs that repeat jumping up when you stop interacting, teach an end signal when you are finished and then walk off, to prevent them being left in limbo and to learn that you are now unavailable and for them to go and relax.

Jumping up as appeasement

Like people some dogs just have a more appeasing nature than others, they are like the people pleasers of the human world. You may see body language like ears pinned back, jumping up and licking to avoid conflict. You often see this in dogs where the owners mood state might be up and down or the dogs behaviour has been managed aversively in the past or the person is intimidating.

This is why getting angry or physical cannot only be detrimental to the dogs well being but it actually heightens the jumping up behaviour, it’s their attempt to prevent conflict escalating. These dogs may seem they are instigating interaction but history can teach them that people when they make eye contact often head towards them so jump up in advance.

  • Do not force interaction, let them come to you, do not stare at them directly for long periods, these can make them jump up again
  • Stroke them gently and not over the top, avoid reaching over the top of them or touching on the head, focus on less intimidating areas are like under the chin, on the chest or shoulder using one hand in gentle circular motions. Two hands can cause them to feel trapped.
  • Avoid using shouting or physical threats to correct behaviour and particularly when they are jumping up as this will exacerbate the behaviour in a dog that is unsure
  • Avoid leaning over them, this can be intimidating which again triggers the jumping up crouch down instead if possible
  • Prevent strangers reaching out to touch them constantly, reward to the floor when people insist on interacting, listening when your dog wants to move away
  • Pause frequently during interactions giving choice to walk away

Jumping up when uncomfortable


Dogs that are anxious, fearful or uncomfortable in a situation will often jump up. This can be on you as an owner, as an indication that they are wanting to come away from the situation. You might see a dog jumping up and interacting with another dog owner, which can be a way that helps them avoid interactions with other dogs. This can occur repeatedly, particularly if the dog’s caregiver is missing the signals that the dog is finding something difficult so the dog seeks support from others.

You can also sometimes see this behaviour when people are heading directly at you dog or I see this particularly in puppies when walking along the road this can appear intimidating to dogs. Dogs greet in an arch like fashion, where as we head directly at one another or it appears that way when walking on the pavement. This jumping behaviour can become excessive/panicked with some dogs even turning to mouth or bite their lead or their owners which can be the fear response fawning. These puppies and dogs need to be supported to ensure their fear response does not escalate to more desperate attempts to gain distance like growling, barking, lunging or worse biting.

  • Work at a greater distance from the people/dogs/vehicles etc the dogs is finding difficult
  • Let them chose to approach or interact at their own pace, no pressurising them in to interacting
  • Visit environments that help them relax and decompress
  • Back away to allow for them to make a more confident approach
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore
  • Build confidence using novelty/noise games and ACE techniques

Jumping up as a request


Dogs may learn to jump up as a way of requesting something, a behavior influenced by learning it works and occasionally fueled by frustration. Positive reinforcement, such as attention or treats, can inadvertently teach this behavior. For instance, if a dog jumps up, the owner asks them to sit, and then rewards them, the looped behavior may continue if the dog hasn’t been trained to stay.

Each dog’s learning style varies, with some becoming more frustrated than others. Building patience during food delivery is crucial, each dog is different so it’s important to go at the dogs level setting them up for success and not failure, preempting the behaviour in the first instance and reward profusely for what you would prefer them to do instead. Although sit is a common behaviour that is taught all the time this is not a necessity and can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot, standing calmly with all four feet on the floor is a behaviour that can be reward instead.

  • Preempt the behaviour so for example if it happens when you are eating/cooking teach them to settle on a mat, rewarding duration and distance whilst you are doing activities in the kitchen or when you are preparing their dinner reward them for calm behaviour before they get excited
  • Slow down and make training easier to avoid frustration jumping
  • Build on duration between rewards in small increments
  • Focus on core skills rather than tricks and what they prefer to do
  • Give fuss/rewards sooner and frequently for feet on floor
  • Use a finished signal to indicate that training, treats, play or interaction are over, to prevent the dog being left in limbo or getting frustrated the key to this is being clear and doing something else after the signal so the dog know you are no longer available

Jumping up to play

Jumping up during play can, again, be inadvertently taught. I often observe caregivers holding the toy up high, leading the dog to attempt to grab it. This behavior may stem from instances where the dog accidentally caught fingers during play, causing caregivers to snatch the toy away in fear, which actually in turn teaches the dog to try grabbing it again in excitement as the toy is moving quickly.

Alternatively, it could be an unintentional taught behaviour employed by handlers trying to teach their dogs to wait but inadvertently instilling frustration by not aligning with their dog’s learning style or setting them up for success.

Another factor is the inherently competitive nature of humans, making the game frustrating or teasing for the dog by not allowing them to win regularly or drawing out them getting the toy. Consequently, the dog may resort to jumping up in an attempt to grab the toy out of the persons hand. Frustration along with play sessions that are way to long can lead to overstimulation, which can result to a dog jumping up, even nipping and biting as excitement levels have become to high.

  • Keep toys at nose level or lower
  • Use longer trailing toys
  • Release the toy sooner to avoid frustration
  • Run the toy along the ground
  • Let them win frequently to avoid frustration mouthing/jumping
  • Teach a leave and get it cue so they know when to grab the toy and when not too, again both cues need to be taught by setting the dog up for success and not taught by snatching it away when you ask them to leave it
  • Keep plays to short 15 minute sessions
  • Again use a finished signal to indicate when play is ended or generally I suggest ending play with a chewing or foraging activity to bring excitement levels down

Jumping up to gain distance

Now this one often throws people because they think if a dog wants to gain distance from something they are uncomfortable with, say a stranger along the street or a visitor. Why would they lunge and jump up at them, why do they not just move away? My answer to this is usually history has taught them when they used subtle signals like pausing, avoidance, moving away in the past that indicated they wanted distance, the signals were either missed or ignored.

This can start from puppyhood in an attempt to “socialise” a dog handlers can think this means that a dog must be interacted with as many people as they can. Allowing people to constantly head at and touch their dogs without noticing the signals the dog is giving to indicate they are not enjoying the interaction. Overtime jumping and lunging can give the dog the distance they need by stopping the person moving, or getting them to move away or the owner moves the dog away through embarrassment of jumping up, therefore the dog learns the behaviour is successful.

Again like appeasement if the dog is not supported correctly or worse punished, they can associate people with further negative experiences and then escalate to more forceful behaviours like lunging, snapping and biting to keep potential threats approaching.

  • Work at distances they feel less threatened
  • Avoid greetings in the hallway or where they feel people are heading at them or cornering them
  • Teach them a positive association with another room that they can come out of or behind a gate that is not headed at
  • Let them approach strangers/visitors in their own time ask visitors to be hands off and to not reach out
  • Invite them to come to you verses you heading towards them
  • Back off at the subtle signs like lip licking and yawning, moving away
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore

Being closely involved in a situation can make it difficult to perceive the reasons behind your dog’s behavior. As humans, our inclination is often to just focus on stopping or correcting the behavior, yet true success hinges on understanding the possible emotional state driving the behavior in many cases.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Equipment, Dog Training, Puppy

Do you take water out for your dog on their walks?

Joanne Hinds

What ever the weather, it’s always important to take water out with you for your dog on walks. Dogs get thirsty the same as us and often are running about more. You might say “but my dog doesn’t drink on walks”, continue reading to find out why that might be.

If you don’t have water with you, dogs can end up disappearing in search of water, possibly drinking from a puddle or worse a stagnant ditch. Now don’t get me wrong some dogs just love drinking dirty water, and different water sources can have different minerals that they could be potentially seeking. However having a fresh safer options on you, is far more preferable. 

Have you ever been training your dog and they stop taking the treats? This could be because they are thirsty and it’s not rewarding, when you have a dry mouth to take more food, especially if you are using the dry biscuit type. Therefore it could become punishing to the dog to perform the behaviour you are actually training at the time.

Water is also another resource you can use as a reward for recall, as we all know if we are thirsty having a drink feels good. What is important however is never withhold water from them for training purposes!

Dogs with anxiety or ones that find some experiences outside stressful, often drink more water. So it’s vital when working on behaviour rehabilitation that these dogs are offered water on a regular basis, or you may find they switch off from treats quicker. 

I have been told on a number of occasions by dog guardians, that their dog will not drink water when out on walks, this maybe the case however the first questions I ask is:

“Has your dog drank from the bowl or bottle that you’re offering them to drink from when outside before?”

“Was enough time given to your dog before the walk to be come familiarised with the item, to enable them to feel comfortable with it?”

You will be surprised how many dogs I see that are actually scared of the water bowl/bottle dispenser that is being offered to them, or the way in which the water is presented to them. For some dogs it can be quite unsettling to be suddenly introduced to a weird novel object, then to have said object enthusiastically thrusted into their face or under their nose, this can appear to be somewhat threatening to a dog.

It’s really important with all equipment, that your dog is actually comfortable drinking from it, so it should be introduced in the house first with them happily using it, comfortable with you approaching them with it and then taken with you on the walk. Always get your dog to walk towards you rather than you moving to them with it in your hand. Normally they drink from a stationary bowl at home, and you are now moving towards them with something odd, sometimes in a forceful way (because you care), as you can see they are thirsty.

Another factor is how much water is dispensed, licking shallow water or dribbles out of a bottle doesn’t quench thirst and therefore some dogs do not bother. Dogs use the back of their tongue like a scoop, lifting the water up and into their mouth see the following video https://youtu.be/63Ch2pNkZwU so ensure you have poured enough out before calling your dog over. 

If they generally do not drink outside and also rarely do at home it’s worth considering the following, mains water in different locations can be highly chlorinated which can prevent dogs from wanting to drink it and actually can have other adverse effects. This is why some dogs prefer filtered or natural spring bottle water.

Dogs can also be getting lot of moisture from the the food/treats they are getting, so it consuming it that way.

An option for these dogs not only to take water just incase, but also more watery treats like melon, cucumber any juicy fruit to provide a refreshing alternative, of course that’s if they like fruit, and it’s provided in moderation.

What ever dog you have, it’s vitally important that dogs have the option to drink whilst they are out.

Happy walking.

Jo

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Don’t leave your dog hanging!

Joanne Hinds

Transcript:

“This is a quick one today but I think it is a really important one because we often leave our dogs in a state of not realising when things are over, which can for some dogs lead to frustration and more desperate attempts to get more treats, play or more fuss. Now I like to teach dogs what I call “The End Signal” which can be named what ever you like but what it means is that we have finished whatever we were doing. I think this is fair because its really hard for some dogs particularly, to understand that now there is no more treats or now we have stopped training and there are some dogs that are particularly more addicted to training, play or fuss even, so its important for our own benefit as well as them to let them know that it is over now and there is no point carrying on trying. Your word can be anything; most people say all gone when it comes to treats, they might say enough, finished, go find or go play, what ever it is it needs to be consistent and I tend say use one word that means that is it, its finished. “Finished” and a hand gesture is useful for your dog, when we would use this is say we were training with them and we have been giving loads of treats and we have been doing some sits, downs and stays and I like to teach a settle at the end so they relax after at the end of the session we say “Finished” with the gesture so they go off and they know that it is the end of training, there is no more treats and we are going to put them away and its clear to them its futile to continue trying. This should apply when you are playing as well particularly for dogs that are ball obsessed but for any dog so they are not just left hanging there like “What happened?” you know we often just carry on, “oh we have done that bit now” and we will carry on doing whatever, we just need to let them know, right that is the end, its all gone you can go and sniff and relax now, so we are not training any more, we are not playing any more. You can obviously use that for fuss and anything where you dog tries to continue to pursue something. Finished means right go and settle down, go sniff if you want to, go an play with your mates whatever but what it should mean from us that it does mean the end. There is no point saying finished and then go and give your dog another treat at the end of that because you then undo what you are trying to achieve, you want your dog to understand that finish means no more now, you can do something else and I am going to do something as well. I cant say enough how important I feel this is for dogs because as i said it just leaves them understanding it is the end and they are not left in limbo. OK I told you it was a short one today so please do the usual like a subscribe and catch me next week take care.”

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

Ask The Dog

Joanne Hinds

My latest book is out, called ASK THE DOG. What made me write this book? Many things; my now 4 year old son, the adults that go straight up to dogs and stroke without asking because they are ‘dog lovers’, the people that have had dogs for years but are missing the subtle body language that dogs display, when they would prefer to be left alone, the number of children that try to come running up to us, when I am out with a client and their dog and of course the many cases I deal with where dogs have bitten.

Ask the dog by Joanne Hinds cover page mum and son asking a owner and the dog whether they are happy to be stroked

Children below the age of 15 account for a high percentage of all dog bites, with the most vulnerable group being kids around 5 or younger, with this group at higher risk of being bitten in the face and are more likely to require hospitalisation than older children. Nearly 90% of the dogs are known to the children that are bitten. Children unfortunately do not recognise canine emotional expressions like growling for example, very well and sadly boys seemed to recognise fearfulness less in dogs.  These are the many factors why I felt it was important for me to help educate children, parents and people in general, on how to recognise when dogs are saying they do not want to be touched.

Now let’s think about it, how much are we touched on a daily basis by known or unknown people? If we walked down the street stopping and physically touching people unsolicitedly, we would not only get some strange looks and make people feel uncomfortable but we might get someone shouting at us or worse. Now think about how much we physically touch and handle dogs. You could be having a BBQ for your friends and family, and as the family dog (big dogs in particular) moves from one room to the next, it may have been touched by at least 80% of the people in the room, just on the way through. Little dogs can often move away quicker but people often pick them up instead which makes them feel uncomfortable, vulnerable and threatened. Not many dogs like being picked up, an indication of this can be when they start licking your face repeatedly, ears back we like to call this the “Kiss to dismiss” which is often the dogs attempt to stop the interaction, see the following article on this https://www.familypaws.com/kiss-to-dismiss-not-all-licks-are-the-same/ by Family Paws Parent Education, they have some excellent information on keeping children safe on their website too. Yes there are some dogs that are on top of you licking you repeatedly because they do like being close but others only do this when you grab or hug/restrain them as this is not normal in the dog world, you don’t see dogs hugging and stroking each other.

Now it’s not just children that this book is aimed at, its for adults too, we are human and designed to read human behaviour, so we often miss when a dog doesn’t want to be engaged with. It’s a credit to many dogs that they don’t bite, many use the subtle signals like lip licking, turning a way and moving away to indicate that they do not want to be approached, and it’s only when these signals have been missed over and over that they have to use bigger displays like barking, growling, snapping or biting to get their message across more effectively. These behaviours are no different from us shouting, lunging or hitting at someone that made us feel uncomfortable too. The common thing I am told is my dog is so good, he tolerates anything we do to him and my response is but is that fair?

ASK THE DOG is about giving dogs the choice to interact or not, giving them the choice to say “No”, to keep people safe and to be mindful that dogs do not always want to be petted. It encourages children to make sure any dogs they encounter are happy to be stroked, and how to recognise signs that a dog may not want to be approached. The message is delivered in the form of a poem. With colourful, eye-catching illustrations to draw in younger readers and help to underline the points made in the text. 

Available in paper back and Kindle Ebook, get your copy today on the following link https://amzn.to/2Kg6sRY and help me spread the word so more people are kept safe.

Bye for now.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

10 Reasons why dogs pull

Joanne Hinds

Ever wonder why some people just struggle to stop there dog pulling, even though they have been to many training classes. Lack of time of course is one reason, if a dog has not been taught from a puppy to walk on a loose lead, it take a lot more time, effort and dedication to correct this behaviour and lots and lots of patience!

However there are a number of reasons why dogs pull on the lead:

Opposition reflex

Pulling against a dog that is pulling away from you is counter productive, if you pull them back they will pull forward it is as simple as that. This is why techniques like jerking on the lead or simply pulling them back, makes them pull away from you and sometimes even pull more.

We dictate the whole walk

If we dictate their every move on the lead, insisting on being at heel, correcting the position manually or constantly stopping them sniffing, they again will fight against you to get to the sniff that they want and in fact need, dogs get a lot of information from sniffing and stopping them can cause frustration and even anxiety. There needs to be a compromise between us and our dogs without them having to drag us.

Wants to get home


If your dogs is pulling on the way home, it is could be that either your walk is too long or see point 8 your dog is not enjoying the walk.

To get to something


Is your dog one that walks nicely until they see a cat, squirrel, person or another dog. 9/10 times this is because of how we handle the lead, over time you can trigger the behaviour because by pulling them back, you make the target much more interesting then it really is. Like toddlers you take something away from them they want it even more. We pull the dog away sometimes before they have even seen the stimuli.

Practiced behaviour


If dogs pull and we follow they learn to get where they want to go, this is standard advice because yes of course the behaviour get rehearsed, however I always look at what they are pulling for. Taking your dog out when you are rushed, means you are more likely to encourage pulling as the dogs feel pressured into just walking and can potentially put them in a sense of fight or flight. Pulling to the park gets them to the park is another saying. Often this is also because the park has become more rewarding than the journey to the park or that it’s more relaxing for them there away from busy loud traffic for example.

Too short a lead


If you walk your dog on a short lead, a lead you wrap round your hand or even standard length leads, do not allow the dog enough freedom to explore as much as they need to, so some dogs learn to pull quickly and shoot across you just to get that sniff they are longing for.

Different Pace



Your dog just the same as other people, walks at a different pace than you. Your dog has four legs you have two, your dog has to learn to match your pace and that’s difficult, this is why during lead walking training, they often drift forward to their natural pace. You try keeping up with someone that walks faster or even slower than you, you will not sustain that pace for long!

Wrong equipment

Ill fitted or poorly designed dog walking equipment like harnesses, can cause discomfort due to rubbing or preventing relaxed strides, it is like a pair of uncomfortable shoes this can trigger dogs to pull to relieve the pain. Getting the right harnesses is key see my blog poorly fitted harness blog 


and another two often overlooked reasons…

Anxiety


Commonly these dogs pull on the way home, pull past busy places, pull anxiously when other dogs/people/or traffic is approaching. Dogs that are scared of noises are often ones that pull, like they want to get the walk over as soon as possible. Fear on walks is something that should be addressed professionally, fear and stress can have long term health implications and effect behaviour, seek help from a professional behaviour advisor.

Health

Dogs that have an injury, pain or discomfort can often find trotting or walking fast relieves the pressure. Dogs do not show injury or pain easy, pain has to be at about a 6 to see something like limping and about 10 for them to Yelp. Often the first sign of pain is behaviour change.

You see, pulling on the lead is not just about training, the above points are just some of the many factors that you need to consider when working on lead walking.

This is why lead walking techniques like, jerking, luring them back into position and changing direction, does not work for a lot of dogs. Not all dogs and I would actually go as far as to say most dogs are not happy walking to heel either and you know what it’s not necessary for a dog to walk to heel, or and asking them to be on the same side all the time can cause imbalances in the body as they are always look at you one side and not the other causing tension in the neck back and more and guess what they can be in front of you as well, it does not mean the dog is being dominant. Your walk should be a compromise between you and your dog, learn how to help him cope when anxious and work on a good loose lead walking technique that allows your dog to sniff and explore what they want but with out them pulling/dragging you down the street to do it.

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A Walk to Remember

Joanne Hinds

How stimulating is your dogs walk?

Is it round the block or the same park once a day?

Do you always take the same route?

Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?

The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.

Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.

When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.

Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker

Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.

Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.

A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!

Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.

You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.

Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Banish the Food Bowl

Joanne Hinds

Providing dogs with appropriate mental and environmental stimulation is increasingly recognised as an important part of supporting their overall wellbeing. While enrichment on its own is unlikely to resolve complex behaviour challenges, research consistently shows that opportunities to forage, problem-solve, sniff and work for food can play a valuable role in reducing boredom, supporting emotional health and giving dogs appropriate outlets for natural behaviours.

One simple way to introduce more variety into a dog’s day is through interactive feeding.

For many years, most dogs have been fed from a bowl once or twice daily because that suits our routines. Some dogs cope perfectly well with this, but others appear less enthusiastic taking food from the bowl to eat elsewhere, leaving meals unfinished, or grazing throughout the day. Feeding patterns can influence appetite, arousal levels and digestion, and many professionals now recommend splitting daily rations into multiple meals where possible.

When we look at dogs’ evolutionary history, it isn’t surprising that working for food appeals to many of them. Research into free-living dogs shows they typically spend much of their day scavenging and searching for small food opportunities rather than eating one predictable meal. Even wild canids invest far more time in seeking food than consuming it. Although most modern dogs live as companions, motivations to sniff, investigate and forage remain part of their behavioural repertoire something we see when dogs hover in the kitchen, raid bins, or vacuum up anything remotely edible on walks.

That doesn’t mean we should encourage dogs to hunt wildlife or neighbourhood cats but it does suggest that providing safe, ethical alternatives can be worthwhile.

Stimulation Without Frustration

Interactive feeding should feel engaging, achievable and enjoyable for the dog. Current thinking around enrichment highlights the importance of matching activities to the individual: their age, physical health, emotional state, learning history and level of arousal, varying it regularly too is important once a dogs got the hang of it.

An activity that is too difficult, overly exciting or prolonged can tip some dogs into frustration or overstimulation rather than helping them settle. Likewise, food toys shouldn’t be used simply to distract dogs from underlying anxiety, fear or difficulty relaxing those concerns deserve careful assessment and tailored behaviour support. In some cases, offering high-effort feeding activities at the wrong moment can actually increase agitation or make it harder for a dog to switch off.

The goal is not to exhaust dogs or mask problems, but to give them appropriate outlets alongside plenty of opportunities for rest, sleep and calm sniffing walks.

How Often Should Dogs Eat?

Many dogs appear to do well when their daily food is divided into at least two meals rather than offered as one large portion, although some individuals may genuinely prefer a single feed. Others seem to thrive on three or four smaller meals spread across the day, particularly when those meals are incorporated into low-pressure enrichment activities. What this looks like will depend on the individual dog and the household routine but mealtimes can become gentle opportunities for engagement rather than something rushed or highly repetitive.

Ideas for Interactive Feeding

Variety helps keep things interesting, and it’s important to keep tasks achievable—especially at first.

  • Scatter feeding: Toss dry food across the kitchen floor, lawn or a quiet patch on a walk (away from other dogs). Snuffle mats work in a similar way and can be homemade.
  • Hide and seek: Place small piles of food around a room or garden. Initially let your dog watch, then gradually hide them out of sight and add a cue like “find it”.
  • Food-dispensing toys: Classics such as Kongs or Squirrel Dudes can be used with loose kibble, soaked and frozen meals, or wet food. Multiple toys can be hidden around the house to extend the search. These can be useful when visitors arrive—provided the dog finds them calming rather than over-arousing.
  • Commercial puzzle feeders: Options like wobblers or activity mats can be great, as long as they don’t push the dog into frustration. If you notice frantic behaviour, vocalising or repeated abandoning of the toy, it’s a sign the challenge may need adjusting.

Homemade Options (Always Supervised)

Many simple household items can be adapted for food-based enrichment, provided they suit the individual dog and are used with supervision. Remove items once empty and discontinue anything that could pose a choking or swallowing risk.

If your dog enjoys shredding or chewing, keep a close eye on them and remove items once empty. Stop completely if there’s any risk of swallowing pieces.

  • Snuffle mats
  • Refilled marrow bones
  • Slightly split tennis balls stuffed with food
  • Cardboard boxes layered with fleece, towels or cartons for dogs who enjoy digging and shredding
  • Blankets or towels rolled with treats between the folds
  • Clean, dry juice cartons with all plastic removed
  • Children’s ball pits with food scattered among the balls
  • Hiding the food bowl or small piles of food for your dog to search for

Some dogs may need a little help at first to understand how food comes out of a new toy. Showing them once or twice is fine, but then allow them to experiment problem-solving is part of what makes these activities mentally engaging.

Put toys away when finished so they stay novel, and balance food-based enrichment with rest, downtime and low-key activities such as sniffy walks.

If you’ve discovered enrichment ideas your dog loves, feel free to share them in the comments. Small changes to daily routines can make life more interesting and more comfortable for many dogs.

If you’d like tailored support for your dog or puppy, you can book a call with me below.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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