Category: Puppy

Grey and brown long haired chihuahua being carried near a road close up
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up and Carried?

Joanne Hinds

Many years ago, I started writing a book called Little Dog Syndrome. I sent it to a publisher who, to my surprise, was interested but life got in the way. I’ve recently revisited it, with the intention of continuing to work on it after finishing my Rethinking Lead Walking course for professionals. (Note to self: I have a tendency to start lots of projects and not finish them… something I’m consciously working on this year.)

I’m actually really glad I left this until now, because my thoughts and opinions have changed. The title was never my philosophy; it was more of a hook, reflecting how small dogs are so often described. Even back then, I was writing from a mindful place, considering how differently smaller dogs are raised, handled, and managed.

One of the areas I wrote about was picking dogs up and carrying them and this is where my thinking has evolved the most.

Picking Up Small Dogs: Why I Used to Avoid It

For a long time, I believed picking up and carrying small dogs should be avoided wherever possible, other than for essential husbandry, grooming, veterinary visits through cooperative care, or safety for example, if a dog hasn’t been trained around doors and you can’t shut them into another room.

I felt that frequent carrying often reduced confidence rather than building it.

In some situations, I still think that can be true particularly when dogs are picked up suddenly, randomly, without warning, or without any choice.

Dogs don’t lift one another. Being removed from the ground can feel startling, disorientating or frightening, especially if it happens repeatedly and unpredictably. Over time, that can create handling sensitivities, anxiety, or defensive behaviour.

How Meeting Mila the Chihuahua Changed My Perspective

My thinking began to shift initially with some uncertainty, and then changed much more after meeting my good friend’s Chihuahua, Mila, when she was just a puppy.

In 30 years, I had never worked with a Chihuahua puppy. I rarely saw them in puppy classes they’re not generally brought and I mostly met them later as behaviour cases involving handling issues, barking, growling, snapping and biting.

Meeting Mila was a real eye-opener.

There is a lot of discussion around picking dogs up when they are scared. I see many caregivers doing this and I also see many small dogs actively asking to be picked up or carried. For some individuals, being lifted genuinely functions as a place of safety. Sometimes the world is a pretty overwhelming place when you’re looking at it from ground level.

Why busy environments are different for tiny dogs

Mila is now an adult, fully grown, and still incredibly tiny. Her legs are as thin as my little finger. She walks alongside her caregiver, but in busy environments she can easily be missed, accidentally stepped on, or rolled over by wheels prams, scooters, bikes, trolleys.

Don’t get me wrong she is swift, nimble and can move when she needs too, she lives with three children but there is still a much higher level of physical risk for dogs her size moving through busy human spaces.

She is confident and pretty resilient, though still alert and cautious, particularly of feet and sometimes hands. I can completely understand why, in busy environments, picking her up or carrying her can be necessary and protective. I do it myself. If a large, exuberant dog barrelled into Mila, she could be significantly hurt.

That context matters.

That said, I do think there are times when we pick small dogs up too quickly before anything has actually happened potentially creating worry before the dog is truly concerned.

At the same time, I can absolutely see why caregivers do it… because they care.

This balance between protecting and over-protecting is one of the hardest things to get right.

A theme echoed by many professionals in discussion was that carrying should not quietly become the default coping strategy. The long-term aim for most dogs is still to feel safe in their own bodies on the ground, with their caregiver as a secure base they can move towards not something they are always lifted away from.

Facial bites, hugging and why choice is critical

One common issue I see is dogs being picked up randomly to be hugged and kissed often one of the main causes of facial bites.

This can start to make dogs feel uncomfortable, this is not normal dog behaviour and actually can be mistaken for a challenge when you think of how dogs lean over one another’s necks sometimes before a fight.

Allowing people to approach and stroke a dog when they are in your arms is, in my view, a no-no. The dog has no choice, signals are often misread, and that lack of agency is frequently why dogs bite: they’re unable to move away, it’s intimidating, and hands can be really annoying.

Small dogs are also more likely to be scooped up by strangers adults and children alike often without warning. Repeated experiences like this understandably teach dogs that approaching humans are unpredictable and threatening, and they may escalate their behaviour to protect themselves.

Teaching predictable, consent-based lifting to dogs

I strongly believe there should be clear cues around picking up and carrying, so the dog has predictability and awareness that it may happen if absolutely needed ideally offered as a question:

“Do you want to be picked up?”

With a cue such as “Up” taught beforehand.

I also like encouraging dogs to move onto a lap or low surface first, where possible, before lifting. This gives them more choice and control.

When lifting, it’s important to support both the chest and hindquarters and keep them close to your body, so they feel secure rather than dangling or unstable.

Some caregivers teach two cues one optional (“do you want up?”) and one non-negotiable for safety (“I have to lift you now”) both predictable, calm and consistent. This clarity can be hugely reassuring, especially for dogs with pain histories or handling sensitivities.

Checking in while carrying and offering dogs the chance to walk again when they’re ready is part of that same consent-led picture.

Puppies, body language, and learning to enjoy handling

Many puppies are lifted frequently by adults, which can unintentionally signal to children that this is always appropriate too. For some puppies, being picked up or handled before they feel comfortable can quickly become overwhelming. When a puppy hasn’t yet learned that human touch is safe or enjoyable, frustration can build and may show up as mouthing or nipping as a way to communicate discomfort.

Dogs don’t naturally pick each other up or stroke one another, so close physical handling is something they need to learn to feel relaxed about. While there are times when lifting a puppy is necessary, it’s important that these experiences are introduced gradually and thoughtfully. I encourage families to slow things down, observe the puppy’s body language first, and let the puppy guide the interaction wherever possible.

Learning to recognise a clear “yes please” such as approaching, soft muscles, and relaxed movement versus a “no thank you” like leaning away, freezing, or turning the head should always come before touching or lifting. Adding simple cues like “up” early on also helps puppies understand what’s coming next, giving them a sense of predictability and control.

Handled in this way, puppies can build positive associations with being touched, making everyday care safer and more comfortable for everyone involved.

Supporting sensitive small dogs without flooding them

I work with many clients who have sensitive small dogs, many of whom did not want to go for walks, with multiple factors influencing this.

In some cases particularly with rescue dogs with little known history, or very sensitive vaccinated puppies or adolescents I may recommend reintroducing them to the world from their arms, much like we would with an unvaccinated puppy. This is only if the dog finds being carried comforting and it’s been taught.

Another option, of course, is a carrier for smaller dogs introduced as a safe place in a positive way.

Being held or carried can allow dogs to observe from a sensible distance, taking information in through their nose and other senses without being flooded. This gives them space to process what they are seeing, hearing and smelling, rather than being pushed straight into situations they’re not ready to cope with on the ground.

Evolution didn’t create these tiny dogs we did, through breeding so I think it’s our job to support them in ways that work best for them.

We can then progress crouching down when the dog shows some interest in exploring a little, with the care giver staying static so the dog can choose to come back to their human for safety, using the caregiver’s legs as protection. Still setting up for success.

Other Dogs, Jumping Up and Environmental Awareness

I’m also very mindful of where lifting happens.

From another dog’s perspective, seeing a dog in someone’s arms is unusual and can create curiosity, confusion, frustration and sometimes jumping up as they investigate.

That risk is part of the equation too.

As confidence builds, I often look to transfer that sense of safety to crouching as previously mentioned, protective positioning, and sometimes a trained middle position between the caregiver’s feet, depending on the dog ensuring however they do not feel trapped.

It’s vital that the care giver becomes the dogs safe place, which is particularly important off-lead, so a worried dogs learn to run towards their caregiver rather than hiding or bolting for home.

Long dog walks, fatigue and knowing when enough is enough

Mila goes many places with her caregiver. Her tiny legs, our long stride and her slower pace can make walking exhausting, I see many small dogs literally having to jog everywhere because of their care givers pace.

While I’m a strong advocate that walks should be about the dog or at least cooperative at both ends of the lead she also has a carrier she loves and uses as a safe place when walks are long, rushed or particularly busy.

Some small dogs are incredibly fit and cover huge distances. Others fatigue far sooner than people realise, and pain doesn’t always show itself clearly at first. Learning to read those subtle signs slowing, lagging, seeking to be picked up matters.

Sometimes carrying for a short stretch across rough ground, crowds or hazards is simply sensible management.

It depends: Individual Dogs, preferences and history

A consistent theme from discussion was that, like people, dogs have preferences.

Some actively ask to be picked up climbing into laps, leaning in, offering their side or backing into position. Others strongly dislike it and would far rather deal with the world on their own four feet.

How handling is introduced, how touch is part of daily life, pain or physical discomfort, past experiences, and temperament all shape those preferences.

Some dogs learn that being lifted makes them feel safe. Others learn that it feels intrusive or frightening.

Our job is to listen.

So… Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up?

Since meeting Mila, I’ve looked at small dog management in a completely different light.

For me, it isn’t about rigid rules.

It’s about:

  • Safety
  • Predictability
  • Consent where possible
  • Thoughtful handling
  • Supporting confidence
  • And building resilience over time

Picking up and carrying can be a valid and useful place of safety for some dogs when used deliberately, compassionately, and alongside skill-building on the ground.

Individual dogs, histories, environments and caregiver skills all matter enormously.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

How You Affect Your Dog

Joanne Hinds

Dogs are little mirrors they watch us constantly and can reflect our behaviour. If you are excited and optimistic you often see your dogs energy increase they might get a little excited and playful. A classic way of seeing this is when we tell our dog they are a good boy/girl this is not about the words initially as they do not speak our language, its about the way we deliver the words and how we behave when we do it is positive happy energy. How we feel, our energy, and our confidence all directly influence our dogs. 

Dogs are highly attuned to our body language, tone of voice, and even subtle changes in our energy and hormone levels through their amazing senses.

If you are someone whose energy is generally heightened and you’re constantly “on the go,” finding it difficult to relax, sit, or switch off, you may pace, feel restless or impatient, and struggle to wind down or sleep. Dogs can often mirror this arousal, which can make them more alert, more reactive to noises, and less able to rest even when tired, puppies generally will want to be close to care givers for a number of weeks and if this is our general state some puppies will not be getting the amount of rest they need. This can lead to increased connection-seeking behaviours, whining, over-arousal, over tiredness and unwanted behaviours.

If we feel stressed, restless, or anxious, or our moods are inconsistent or up and down, it can affect our dogs in a variety of ways. Puppies and adult dogs are highly sensitive to our energy and often mirror how we feel. They may:

  • Mirror our anxiety – showing increased restlessness, whining, being more clingy
  • Become defensive – in puppies, this can show as increased biting or mouthing, zoomies, growling, barking, stiff body language, or backing away or evening snapping
  • Try to take a protective role – like warning things away, even when they aren’t confident enough.
  • Become hesitant or less confident in new experiences.
  • Show appeasement behaviours – such as jumping up, nudging, or licking repeatedly, in an attempt to calm us or resolve tension.

All of these behaviours can sometimes increase our frustration, making us think the dog is misbehaving, when in fact they are responding to our own behaviour and coping to uncertainty. Understanding this helps us stay patient and aware, and allows us to respond calmly, setting our puppies up for confidence, trust, and positive experiences

Conversely, when we are calm, relaxed and consistent, it helps dogs feel safe, relaxed, and confident, creating a more positive and trusting relationship.

This isn’t about being perfect or beating yourself up when you are having a bad day. It’s about awareness, so you can setup both you and your dog up for success. Even small shifts in your energy can make a big difference. Puppies’ brains are wired to read human social cues from around 3–4 weeks old, paying attention long before we think they are.

Puppies aren’t blank slates either. Genetics, early handling, and their mother’s environment shape their temperament. Some may naturally be more nervous or cautious, so it’s not all about how we bring them up, our behaviour alone doesn’t erase their past, but it can shape how they respond and grow. Being aware of how we act around them is very important as they are developing and when we are socialising them and exposing them to their new world. Calm, confident, and consistent energy helps dogs feel safe, reassured, and willing to engage. Research shows that puppies with sensitive temperaments are especially influenced by caregiver behaviour, learning more quickly when interactions are predictable and positive. Puppies are especially sensitive between 3–12 weeks of age, a key socialisation period where early experiences have a strong and lasting influence. Calm, positive guidance during this time helps build confidence and sets them up for success as they grow.

In the wild, puppies look to their mother for guidance. If a puppy starts barking, it glances back to see her reaction. Calm signals like grooming, relaxing, or simply observing tell the puppy there is no cause for concern. If the mother is tense or scared, the puppy responds accordingly. Calm signals = relaxation; tense signals = concern.

As caregivers, we naturally step into that parental role. When a puppy seems unsure or worried and we respond with a concerned expression, or we scoop them up too quickly before they have had a chance to recover or approach us they can feel more uneasy. Of course, we always want to be a safe place for them to come to when they choose if they are genuinely frightened or struggling, offering comfort builds trust and them seeing we are not concerned will in turn will help them learn. Its still about working at their pace if we pressure them into situations before they’re ready or fail to support them when they really need it, it can affect their confidence and even future recall, because they may not see us as their go-to source of safety.

This is also why rushing to stop a puppy barking especially because we’re worried about neighbours can backfire. Barking is often a natural response to something sudden or surprising. If we react with anxiety or tension, they learn there is something to be worried about. Staying neutral helps them understand the world is safe and there’s no need for alarm.

Feelings are contagious our dogs read us more than we realise, just like we pick up on someone else’s bad mood. Staying steady, calm, and available shows them they’re safe and supported.

If you nature is a certain way that’s ok, sometimes we you might be better at being the one that provides comfort or fun, you just might want to introduce somethings with your puppy being in the arms of the calmer handler in the house. You will see over time that your dogs may be calmer with one person in the house more than the other, that’s due to their general energy. Some dogs, whether or adults respond more to whoever is clear, calm, confident and consistent. Dogs are social learners; they take cues from humans just as they would from their littermates or mother, helping them decide how to react to new situations this is important information when you are taking them out and about. Dogs thrive under predictable routines and clear communication. Being mindful of your energy helps dogs trust and relax, and ensuring good experiences.

What matters most is awareness and checking in with yourself. It’s not about being perfect or suppressing your feelings dogs can tell when you’re faking it. It’s about pausing and noticing, especially when managing your dog’s behaviour or supporting them after a reaction to something in the environment. Training works best when we’re in a good state of mind. If you’re tired, frustrated, or anxious, pause, breathe, and reset stress and worry always show up in your patience. Taking breaks isn’t a weakness; it’s a tool that helps both you and your dog. Even a short pause can stop tension building. Give yourself permission to step back, especially with young puppies, and don’t hesitate to ask for support when you need it.

Research shows that dogs supported by calm, confident handlers become more resilient in new places, around noises, and with other dogs. Your energy matters just as much as your training or your voice. By staying aware, calm, and consistent, you help your dog grow in confidence, build trust, and feel secure. It’s not about getting everything right it’s about being present and willing to try again, doing your best with awareness and care, and knowing that if you have a tough day, you’re human and there’s always another chance. One of the lovely parts of this process is that the mindfulness you offer your dog often helps calm your own nervous system too. Many of us bring dogs into our lives for support, and the beautiful thing is that we can offer that same sense of safety back to them.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

6 reasons why dogs jump up, its not just to say hello!

Joanne Hinds

Many dog owners prioritise stopping their dogs’ jumping behaviour, considering it a troublesome habit that can potentially pose a risk to others. While this perspective is right and understandable from a human point of view, it’s essential to recognise that from a dog’s standpoint, jumping serves as a means of communication, and there are several underlying motivations behind this behaviour for you to be able to address the issue effectively. This is also why the conventional advice of simply turning your back on the dog, does not prove effective for many, as it only yields results with a limited number of dogs.

There is also often a difference in how it’s managed with small and big dogs. Management and control of this behaviour is heavily focused on with large dogs, due to risk of injury however small dogs not so much. Small dogs often just being reprimanded when it happens when you have your best clothes on or they have muddy paws and are about to jump on a stranger, without training them what we prefer them to do.

Jumping up behaviors are indeed observed in dog-to-dog interactions, although they are less common compared to interactions with people. This difference can be attributed in part to human influence through selective breeding, resulting in variations in size and temperament among breeds. Additionally, mounting behaviours may occur for sexual activity, if excitement levels become excessive or if the interaction becomes too overwhelming. Jumping can also be seen in play between certain dogs or during moments of rising tension and during a fight. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for interpreting canine behaviour accurately.

In my view, it’s crucial to gain an understanding of the underlying causes before attempting to tackle this issue. This understanding can contribute to success for both you and your dogs relationship. Some of the motivations behind their behavior might even catch you by surprise. Additionally, I’ve provided a set of straightforward initial guidelines to assist you in addressing what you might perceive as nuisance behaviour while helping your dog convey their needs effectively.

Jumping up as a greeting

Certain dogs exhibit high excitement upon your return, expressing relief, joy, or sheer happiness at your presence. Unlike us, they walk on four legs, and if you observe their interactions, you’ll notice they frequently start by sniffing the mouth before proceeding to the rear, especially when greeting familiar canines. Our upright posture can lead some dogs, especially those with a more appeasing disposition, to aim for the facial area during greetings.

This behaviour can often be unintentionally reinforced during a dog’s early stages, where puppies may jump up in certain situations, and we initially encourage it when we interact with them as they are small and cute. As they grow older, we may become frustrated with this behaviour due to getting scratched or fed up with our clothes being dirtied, even though it was our initial encouragement that taught the behaviour, dogs tend to repeat behaviours that they find rewarding or reinforcing.

Commonly people manage jumping up by pushing the dog down, shouting, ignoring the dog completely, folding arms and turning away or a combination of all these responses. The problem with the above reactions is either the dog is getting attention for the behaviour you don’t want or goes into appeasement see below, because you are getting angry or they get frustrated/distressed because they are getting no feed back at all, which can lead to more desperate attempts to gain interaction.

  • Be mindful how over the top your interaction is when greeting them, your dog will match your energy. This is also not a normal greeting for a dog, so can make them feel in conflict, if you watch how adult dogs with good social skills greet you will see it’s much calmer.
  • Preempt the jumping before it happens and reach down to their level, stroking their chest/shoulder calmly for paws on floor, you do not need to insist on a sit in fact this can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot and escalate their jumping. Keep greetings short many dogs are not looking for physical touch
  • Give them a special toy to hold, this can work particularly well with retrieving breeds and dogs whom enjoy holding or parading with an item.
  • Drop treats to the floor or on to a mat or bed away from the entrance way, when greeting visitors/strangers making the visitor boring, drop until completely calm, ensure you do not loop jump at visitors gets treats, preempt the behaviour
  • If they jump pause any interaction, step back, no talking to them or touching until feet are back on the floor and then calmly stroke
  • Use a hand target to redirect them down, no pushing them.
  • Build on duration of pauses between strokes for dogs that repeat jumping up when you stop interacting, teach an end signal when you are finished and then walk off, to prevent them being left in limbo and to learn that you are now unavailable and for them to go and relax.

Jumping up as appeasement

Like people some dogs just have a more appeasing nature than others, they are like the people pleasers of the human world. You may see body language like ears pinned back, jumping up and licking to avoid conflict. You often see this in dogs where the owners mood state might be up and down or the dogs behaviour has been managed aversively in the past or the person is intimidating.

This is why getting angry or physical cannot only be detrimental to the dogs well being but it actually heightens the jumping up behaviour, it’s their attempt to prevent conflict escalating. These dogs may seem they are instigating interaction but history can teach them that people when they make eye contact often head towards them so jump up in advance.

  • Do not force interaction, let them come to you, do not stare at them directly for long periods, these can make them jump up again
  • Stroke them gently and not over the top, avoid reaching over the top of them or touching on the head, focus on less intimidating areas are like under the chin, on the chest or shoulder using one hand in gentle circular motions. Two hands can cause them to feel trapped.
  • Avoid using shouting or physical threats to correct behaviour and particularly when they are jumping up as this will exacerbate the behaviour in a dog that is unsure
  • Avoid leaning over them, this can be intimidating which again triggers the jumping up crouch down instead if possible
  • Prevent strangers reaching out to touch them constantly, reward to the floor when people insist on interacting, listening when your dog wants to move away
  • Pause frequently during interactions giving choice to walk away

Jumping up when uncomfortable


Dogs that are anxious, fearful or uncomfortable in a situation will often jump up. This can be on you as an owner, as an indication that they are wanting to come away from the situation. You might see a dog jumping up and interacting with another dog owner, which can be a way that helps them avoid interactions with other dogs. This can occur repeatedly, particularly if the dog’s caregiver is missing the signals that the dog is finding something difficult so the dog seeks support from others.

You can also sometimes see this behaviour when people are heading directly at you dog or I see this particularly in puppies when walking along the road this can appear intimidating to dogs. Dogs greet in an arch like fashion, where as we head directly at one another or it appears that way when walking on the pavement. This jumping behaviour can become excessive/panicked with some dogs even turning to mouth or bite their lead or their owners which can be the fear response fawning. These puppies and dogs need to be supported to ensure their fear response does not escalate to more desperate attempts to gain distance like growling, barking, lunging or worse biting.

  • Work at a greater distance from the people/dogs/vehicles etc the dogs is finding difficult
  • Let them chose to approach or interact at their own pace, no pressurising them in to interacting
  • Visit environments that help them relax and decompress
  • Back away to allow for them to make a more confident approach
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore
  • Build confidence using novelty/noise games and ACE techniques

Jumping up as a request


Dogs may learn to jump up as a way of requesting something, a behavior influenced by learning it works and occasionally fueled by frustration. Positive reinforcement, such as attention or treats, can inadvertently teach this behavior. For instance, if a dog jumps up, the owner asks them to sit, and then rewards them, the looped behavior may continue if the dog hasn’t been trained to stay.

Each dog’s learning style varies, with some becoming more frustrated than others. Building patience during food delivery is crucial, each dog is different so it’s important to go at the dogs level setting them up for success and not failure, preempting the behaviour in the first instance and reward profusely for what you would prefer them to do instead. Although sit is a common behaviour that is taught all the time this is not a necessity and can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot, standing calmly with all four feet on the floor is a behaviour that can be reward instead.

  • Preempt the behaviour so for example if it happens when you are eating/cooking teach them to settle on a mat, rewarding duration and distance whilst you are doing activities in the kitchen or when you are preparing their dinner reward them for calm behaviour before they get excited
  • Slow down and make training easier to avoid frustration jumping
  • Build on duration between rewards in small increments
  • Focus on core skills rather than tricks and what they prefer to do
  • Give fuss/rewards sooner and frequently for feet on floor
  • Use a finished signal to indicate that training, treats, play or interaction are over, to prevent the dog being left in limbo or getting frustrated the key to this is being clear and doing something else after the signal so the dog know you are no longer available

Jumping up to play

Jumping up during play can, again, be inadvertently taught. I often observe caregivers holding the toy up high, leading the dog to attempt to grab it. This behavior may stem from instances where the dog accidentally caught fingers during play, causing caregivers to snatch the toy away in fear, which actually in turn teaches the dog to try grabbing it again in excitement as the toy is moving quickly.

Alternatively, it could be an unintentional taught behaviour employed by handlers trying to teach their dogs to wait but inadvertently instilling frustration by not aligning with their dog’s learning style or setting them up for success.

Another factor is the inherently competitive nature of humans, making the game frustrating or teasing for the dog by not allowing them to win regularly or drawing out them getting the toy. Consequently, the dog may resort to jumping up in an attempt to grab the toy out of the persons hand. Frustration along with play sessions that are way to long can lead to overstimulation, which can result to a dog jumping up, even nipping and biting as excitement levels have become to high.

  • Keep toys at nose level or lower
  • Use longer trailing toys
  • Release the toy sooner to avoid frustration
  • Run the toy along the ground
  • Let them win frequently to avoid frustration mouthing/jumping
  • Teach a leave and get it cue so they know when to grab the toy and when not too, again both cues need to be taught by setting the dog up for success and not taught by snatching it away when you ask them to leave it
  • Keep plays to short 15 minute sessions
  • Again use a finished signal to indicate when play is ended or generally I suggest ending play with a chewing or foraging activity to bring excitement levels down

Jumping up to gain distance

Now this one often throws people because they think if a dog wants to gain distance from something they are uncomfortable with, say a stranger along the street or a visitor. Why would they lunge and jump up at them, why do they not just move away? My answer to this is usually history has taught them when they used subtle signals like pausing, avoidance, moving away in the past that indicated they wanted distance, the signals were either missed or ignored.

This can start from puppyhood in an attempt to “socialise” a dog handlers can think this means that a dog must be interacted with as many people as they can. Allowing people to constantly head at and touch their dogs without noticing the signals the dog is giving to indicate they are not enjoying the interaction. Overtime jumping and lunging can give the dog the distance they need by stopping the person moving, or getting them to move away or the owner moves the dog away through embarrassment of jumping up, therefore the dog learns the behaviour is successful.

Again like appeasement if the dog is not supported correctly or worse punished, they can associate people with further negative experiences and then escalate to more forceful behaviours like lunging, snapping and biting to keep potential threats approaching.

  • Work at distances they feel less threatened
  • Avoid greetings in the hallway or where they feel people are heading at them or cornering them
  • Teach them a positive association with another room that they can come out of or behind a gate that is not headed at
  • Let them approach strangers/visitors in their own time ask visitors to be hands off and to not reach out
  • Invite them to come to you verses you heading towards them
  • Back off at the subtle signs like lip licking and yawning, moving away
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore

Being closely involved in a situation can make it difficult to perceive the reasons behind your dog’s behavior. As humans, our inclination is often to just focus on stopping or correcting the behavior, yet true success hinges on understanding the possible emotional state driving the behavior in many cases.

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Equipment, Dog Training, Puppy

Do you take water out for your dog on their walks?

Joanne Hinds

What ever the weather, it’s always important to take water out with you for your dog on walks. Dogs get thirsty the same as us and often are running about more. You might say “but my dog doesn’t drink on walks”, continue reading to find out why that might be.

If you don’t have water with you, dogs can end up disappearing in search of water, possibly drinking from a puddle or worse a stagnant ditch. Now don’t get me wrong some dogs just love drinking dirty water, and different water sources can have different minerals that they could be potentially seeking. However having a fresh safer options on you, is far more preferable. 

Have you ever been training your dog and they stop taking the treats? This could be because they are thirsty and it’s not rewarding, when you have a dry mouth to take more food, especially if you are using the dry biscuit type. Therefore it could become punishing to the dog to perform the behaviour you are actually training at the time.

Water is also another resource you can use as a reward for recall, as we all know if we are thirsty having a drink feels good. What is important however is never withhold water from them for training purposes!

Dogs with anxiety or ones that find some experiences outside stressful, often drink more water. So it’s vital when working on behaviour rehabilitation that these dogs are offered water on a regular basis, or you may find they switch off from treats quicker. 

I have been told on a number of occasions by dog guardians, that their dog will not drink water when out on walks, this maybe the case however the first questions I ask is:

“Has your dog drank from the bowl or bottle that you’re offering them to drink from when outside before?”

“Was enough time given to your dog before the walk to be come familiarised with the item, to enable them to feel comfortable with it?”

You will be surprised how many dogs I see that are actually scared of the water bowl/bottle dispenser that is being offered to them, or the way in which the water is presented to them. For some dogs it can be quite unsettling to be suddenly introduced to a weird novel object, then to have said object enthusiastically thrusted into their face or under their nose, this can appear to be somewhat threatening to a dog.

It’s really important with all equipment, that your dog is actually comfortable drinking from it, so it should be introduced in the house first with them happily using it, comfortable with you approaching them with it and then taken with you on the walk. Always get your dog to walk towards you rather than you moving to them with it in your hand. Normally they drink from a stationary bowl at home, and you are now moving towards them with something odd, sometimes in a forceful way (because you care), as you can see they are thirsty.

Another factor is how much water is dispensed, licking shallow water or dribbles out of a bottle doesn’t quench thirst and therefore some dogs do not bother. Dogs use the back of their tongue like a scoop, lifting the water up and into their mouth see the following video https://youtu.be/63Ch2pNkZwU so ensure you have poured enough out before calling your dog over. 

If they generally do not drink outside and also rarely do at home it’s worth considering the following, mains water in different locations can be highly chlorinated which can prevent dogs from wanting to drink it and actually can have other adverse effects. This is why some dogs prefer filtered or natural spring bottle water.

Dogs can also be getting lot of moisture from the the food/treats they are getting, so it consuming it that way.

An option for these dogs not only to take water just incase, but also more watery treats like melon, cucumber any juicy fruit to provide a refreshing alternative, of course that’s if they like fruit, and it’s provided in moderation.

What ever dog you have, it’s vitally important that dogs have the option to drink whilst they are out.

Happy walking.

Jo

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Dog Behaviour, Puppy

How to overcome the puppy blues so you can enjoy your puppy!

Joanne Hinds

Having a new puppy can be a bit of an emotional roller coaster at times, but it’s often the lesser talked about reality of new puppy parenthood. It can leave you feeling a little isolated, frustrated, and even perhaps regretful. It’s the puppy blues in full effect! 

I’m going to let you into a well-kept secret that I think will help you. A large percentage of the issues we see with puppies are not actually training issues at all. 

There are two things that are leading to you feeling overwhelmed, conflicted, and possibly even guilty about life with your new puppy. You might be surprised to learn that they are both fairly easy to overcome once you identify them. 

So what are they, Jo? I hear you cry. 

Expectations and too much information. 

In this puppy blues blog, we will delve into both of these factors so you can recognise them, manage them and come out the other side with your sanity intact and a dog you love deeply and understand. 

So, let’s start with expectations. 

Puppy Blues: Is it normal to feel regret after getting a puppy?

You had a vision of what life was going to look like when you welcomed your puppy or rescue dog home. And this isn’t it. 

You’re exhausted. You’re monitoring your puppy’s toileting habits constantly, you’re sleep-deprived, and you’re frankly covered in bite marks gifted to you by your little shark puppy’s razor-sharp teeth. 

It’s disappointing, upsetting, frustrating, and you might even be feeling like getting your puppy was a terrible idea. Don’t panic! It’s also normal!

Guess what?! Your puppy is more than likely behaving like a puppy. The problem is not you, and it’s not your puppy. He isn’t some devilish spawn that you should never have invited into your life.

The problem is that you weren’t given an honest reflection of what these early weeks and months might look like. It’s not your fault. 

You read all the books and boffed up before getting him home, but now it’s like everything you read was written for someone else. 

I’ll tell you why. There isn’t much out there that highlights the fact that your puppy will not master everything you try and train immediately. And that’s not because you’re not doing it right. It’s because there are developmental milestones that have to be reached before that training will cement. Training takes time. 

Why is my puppy so hard to train? 

Your 9-week old puppy cannot physically hold their wee and poo in. They are not developed enough to do so. Your puppy doesn’t have the capacity to be fully toilet trained until approx 16 weeks old, when he can begin to learn to hold his toileting needs until he’s in an appropriate place. 

That doesn’t mean there’s no point in doing any toilet training. There is. But it means that you can allow yourself to relax a little and enjoy the little successes which are slowly adding up. 

Let go of berating yourself (and your puppy) whenever you find a puddle somewhere you’d rather not. It’s going to happen. Stock up on kind words for yourself and your puppy, enzymatic cleaner to remove odours and stains, and treats for celebrating the toileting that is happening in the right places. 

And trust that it will pay off. These little accidents may be frustrating, but they won’t be forever. 

The puppy biting you’re experiencing is also normal. Your puppy is teething, prone to becoming overtired in the blink of an eye and learning about the world with her mouth. You can do things to help your puppy with their sore teeth, but it is unrealistic to think you can completely eradicate any biting. 

Those sleepless nights or hideously early mornings? Yup, normal! Again, there are things we can do to make it easier on you and your puppy, but it’s unlikely that you’ll be gifted a puppy who sleeps 12hrs straight as soon as they enter your life. 

The fun and joy you expected from puppy life are in there. You will enjoy your life with your dog. The puppy blues will pass! 

You just need some help to adjust your expectations so that you can revel in your training successes and actually recognise when they happen. You might find that your puppy training is actually going swimmingly, you just need a different perspective… and perhaps a couple of small tweaks to help you on your way. 

Who can I trust – there is so much conflicting information

I remember when I first had my son, Logan. Yes, I’m talking about a human child, but stick with me, it is relevant, I promise. 

I drove myself round the bend, worrying about whether I was getting it right. I’d read so many books while pregnant, but my views were completely different when he arrived. 

So what did I do? I turned to Google, of course! 

And I didn’t stop there. I read various books, talked to friends, and tied myself in little knots once I’d acquired a ton of conflicting advice. 

It was overwhelming, confusing, and very unhelpful.  

We all have really good gut instincts, but we go down these rabbit holes seeking information, and we often end up ignoring or even fighting against our gut.

I have clients who have achieved great results using books or videos from YouTube. They have developed amazing skills which have helped them to train their dogs. But there is still something missing. 

For a lifetime of success, understanding, and a strong bond with your dog, you need to not just be able to teach behaviours but to have a clear understanding of your dog’s behaviour. 

What’s beneath the problems you are experiencing? When you understand your dog’s specific needs, what motivates him, what he struggles with and what emotions he is experiencing, you are both set up for an incredible relationship.

That can’t be taught in a generic video or picked up from a well-meaning dog friend because your dog is unique. There will be different motivations, life experiences, breed traits and so much more that affect your dog’s perspective on the world. 

Let’s go back to Logan for a minute. Imagine I told a friend he screamed all night, and I was at my wit’s end. And imagine my friend told me that she had a similar experience, and her baby was hungry, so she gave her an extra feed before bed, and the problem was solved. 

So off I toddle, and I give Logan a huge top up feed before bedtime. Only he doesn’t sleep soundly. He screams even more and for longer. Because the reason he couldn’t sleep was reflux, and the extra milk just made that 10x worse. This is a made-up story, but I just want to highlight how if we seek out information without a two-way exchange, it can quickly lead us into bigger problems. 

Just like children, our puppies and dogs need us to be consistent. And with the best of intentions, when we bounce from pillar to post trying different techniques from various people, it simply doesn’t work. In fact, a lot of the time, it creates bigger problems, because we are now unpredictable to our dogs (or kids), and that doesn’t foster confidence or security. 

What should I focus on with my puppy?

Your puppy is like a baby, he/she needs you. The absolute best thing you can do for your puppy (and your future self) is to help your puppy to grow in confidence. The typical dog training obedience stuff can come later. The early weeks and months are all about supporting your puppy and helping him/her to feel secure and safe. 

This solid foundation will enable you to build a strong relationship with your puppy. And that foundation will make it a million times easier to teach your puppy the vital skills they need to grow into an assured, confident, and happy dog. 

You can begin teaching cues such as drop and leave to help keep your puppy safe, of course. I don’t mean that you should completely ignore all elements of training your puppy. But the area of most importance is your relationship and their feeling secure. 

So, if you’re not going to Google everything and ask every dog owner you know, what’s the alternative? 

“I wish I had got help from the beginning” is a phrase I hear from clients all the time. Initially, they tried using a book or the internet to help them with their puppy woes, but the reality was they became even more overwhelmed. 

They wound up pulling their hair out and making things so much harder for both themselves and their puppy. 

Prevention is better than cure

Don’t put off puppy training until you have a problem. It will be so much harder for you and your puppy. 

Being proactive to prevent problems or getting help as soon as they arise sets you and your puppy up for success both now and in the future. Whether you’re having a tough time or you’d like to try and prevent a challenge from occurring, having a professional you can call on to discuss your individual situation is a huge relief. 

How choosing one to one puppy training support can help you overcome the puppy blues

Group puppy training classes usually teach general obedience training covering things like sit, stay, recall, and drop. And while these can be helpful skills to learn, you then have to take what you’ve learned in a class environment and progress it in the outside world alone. And that can be tricky without someone coaching you through the little hiccups that occur in day-to-day life. 

Choosing one to one dog training support means that we work on your specific challenges and your unique goals. We consider your lifestyle, the things that are important to you, and we work on a bespoke plan for your puppy or dog and support you through putting it into action. 

I’m not just a dog trainer and behaviourist, I support the humans I work with. If you have a safe person to turn to it makes it a million times easier for you to be the safe person for your puppy. 

And it helps you get over those inevitable humps without falling down a Google hole, only to emerge confused, even more exhausted, and utterly fed up. 

Instead, you have one person to reach out to who will give you consistent, tailored advice and support that meets your needs and those of your puppy. Hurrah!

So that vision you had of life with a confident and calm dog by your side that can stride through life with you no matter what happens is your reality. 

If you’re struggling with the puppy blues, then please don’t suffer alone. Reach out and get in touch with me, and let’s banish those puppy blues so you can enjoy your new pup! 

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Since you’re here and tackling all things puppy, you might find this blog on socialising your puppy a useful read. https://johinds.com/2018/03/29/dog-play-vs-oversocialisation/

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Don’t leave your dog hanging!

Joanne Hinds

Transcript:

“This is a quick one today but I think it is a really important one because we often leave our dogs in a state of not realising when things are over, which can for some dogs lead to frustration and more desperate attempts to get more treats, play or more fuss. Now I like to teach dogs what I call “The End Signal” which can be named what ever you like but what it means is that we have finished whatever we were doing. I think this is fair because its really hard for some dogs particularly, to understand that now there is no more treats or now we have stopped training and there are some dogs that are particularly more addicted to training, play or fuss even, so its important for our own benefit as well as them to let them know that it is over now and there is no point carrying on trying. Your word can be anything; most people say all gone when it comes to treats, they might say enough, finished, go find or go play, what ever it is it needs to be consistent and I tend say use one word that means that is it, its finished. “Finished” and a hand gesture is useful for your dog, when we would use this is say we were training with them and we have been giving loads of treats and we have been doing some sits, downs and stays and I like to teach a settle at the end so they relax after at the end of the session we say “Finished” with the gesture so they go off and they know that it is the end of training, there is no more treats and we are going to put them away and its clear to them its futile to continue trying. This should apply when you are playing as well particularly for dogs that are ball obsessed but for any dog so they are not just left hanging there like “What happened?” you know we often just carry on, “oh we have done that bit now” and we will carry on doing whatever, we just need to let them know, right that is the end, its all gone you can go and sniff and relax now, so we are not training any more, we are not playing any more. You can obviously use that for fuss and anything where you dog tries to continue to pursue something. Finished means right go and settle down, go sniff if you want to, go an play with your mates whatever but what it should mean from us that it does mean the end. There is no point saying finished and then go and give your dog another treat at the end of that because you then undo what you are trying to achieve, you want your dog to understand that finish means no more now, you can do something else and I am going to do something as well. I cant say enough how important I feel this is for dogs because as i said it just leaves them understanding it is the end and they are not left in limbo. OK I told you it was a short one today so please do the usual like a subscribe and catch me next week take care.”

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

A Walk to Remember

Joanne Hinds

How stimulating is your dogs walk?

Is it round the block or the same park once a day?

Do you always take the same route?

Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?

The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.

Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.

When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.

Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker

Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.

Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.

A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!

Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.

You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.

Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!

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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Banish the Food Bowl

Joanne Hinds

Providing dogs with appropriate mental and environmental stimulation is increasingly recognised as an important part of supporting their overall wellbeing. While enrichment on its own is unlikely to resolve complex behaviour challenges, research consistently shows that opportunities to forage, problem-solve, sniff and work for food can play a valuable role in reducing boredom, supporting emotional health and giving dogs appropriate outlets for natural behaviours.

One simple way to introduce more variety into a dog’s day is through interactive feeding.

For many years, most dogs have been fed from a bowl once or twice daily because that suits our routines. Some dogs cope perfectly well with this, but others appear less enthusiastic taking food from the bowl to eat elsewhere, leaving meals unfinished, or grazing throughout the day. Feeding patterns can influence appetite, arousal levels and digestion, and many professionals now recommend splitting daily rations into multiple meals where possible.

When we look at dogs’ evolutionary history, it isn’t surprising that working for food appeals to many of them. Research into free-living dogs shows they typically spend much of their day scavenging and searching for small food opportunities rather than eating one predictable meal. Even wild canids invest far more time in seeking food than consuming it. Although most modern dogs live as companions, motivations to sniff, investigate and forage remain part of their behavioural repertoire something we see when dogs hover in the kitchen, raid bins, or vacuum up anything remotely edible on walks.

That doesn’t mean we should encourage dogs to hunt wildlife or neighbourhood cats but it does suggest that providing safe, ethical alternatives can be worthwhile.

Stimulation Without Frustration

Interactive feeding should feel engaging, achievable and enjoyable for the dog. Current thinking around enrichment highlights the importance of matching activities to the individual: their age, physical health, emotional state, learning history and level of arousal, varying it regularly too is important once a dogs got the hang of it.

An activity that is too difficult, overly exciting or prolonged can tip some dogs into frustration or overstimulation rather than helping them settle. Likewise, food toys shouldn’t be used simply to distract dogs from underlying anxiety, fear or difficulty relaxing those concerns deserve careful assessment and tailored behaviour support. In some cases, offering high-effort feeding activities at the wrong moment can actually increase agitation or make it harder for a dog to switch off.

The goal is not to exhaust dogs or mask problems, but to give them appropriate outlets alongside plenty of opportunities for rest, sleep and calm sniffing walks.

How Often Should Dogs Eat?

Many dogs appear to do well when their daily food is divided into at least two meals rather than offered as one large portion, although some individuals may genuinely prefer a single feed. Others seem to thrive on three or four smaller meals spread across the day, particularly when those meals are incorporated into low-pressure enrichment activities. What this looks like will depend on the individual dog and the household routine but mealtimes can become gentle opportunities for engagement rather than something rushed or highly repetitive.

Ideas for Interactive Feeding

Variety helps keep things interesting, and it’s important to keep tasks achievable—especially at first.

  • Scatter feeding: Toss dry food across the kitchen floor, lawn or a quiet patch on a walk (away from other dogs). Snuffle mats work in a similar way and can be homemade.
  • Hide and seek: Place small piles of food around a room or garden. Initially let your dog watch, then gradually hide them out of sight and add a cue like “find it”.
  • Food-dispensing toys: Classics such as Kongs or Squirrel Dudes can be used with loose kibble, soaked and frozen meals, or wet food. Multiple toys can be hidden around the house to extend the search. These can be useful when visitors arrive—provided the dog finds them calming rather than over-arousing.
  • Commercial puzzle feeders: Options like wobblers or activity mats can be great, as long as they don’t push the dog into frustration. If you notice frantic behaviour, vocalising or repeated abandoning of the toy, it’s a sign the challenge may need adjusting.

Homemade Options (Always Supervised)

Many simple household items can be adapted for food-based enrichment, provided they suit the individual dog and are used with supervision. Remove items once empty and discontinue anything that could pose a choking or swallowing risk.

If your dog enjoys shredding or chewing, keep a close eye on them and remove items once empty. Stop completely if there’s any risk of swallowing pieces.

  • Snuffle mats
  • Refilled marrow bones
  • Slightly split tennis balls stuffed with food
  • Cardboard boxes layered with fleece, towels or cartons for dogs who enjoy digging and shredding
  • Blankets or towels rolled with treats between the folds
  • Clean, dry juice cartons with all plastic removed
  • Children’s ball pits with food scattered among the balls
  • Hiding the food bowl or small piles of food for your dog to search for

Some dogs may need a little help at first to understand how food comes out of a new toy. Showing them once or twice is fine, but then allow them to experiment problem-solving is part of what makes these activities mentally engaging.

Put toys away when finished so they stay novel, and balance food-based enrichment with rest, downtime and low-key activities such as sniffy walks.

If you’ve discovered enrichment ideas your dog loves, feel free to share them in the comments. Small changes to daily routines can make life more interesting and more comfortable for many dogs.

If you’d like tailored support for your dog or puppy, you can book a call with me below.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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