Certified dog trainer & behaviourist helping you solve problem behaviours & build good habits. Training in Ruislip, Hillingdon, Uxbridge & surrounding areas.
Author: Joanne Hinds
Dog Trainer and Pet Behaviour Advisor dealing with dogs and cats on a one to one basis
Dogs that are busy, overexcitable, or restless are often overlooked when it comes to discomfort and pain. In the park, these dogs may run around off-lead like mad, are maybe play-obsessed, might constantly pull on the lead, may not nap during the day, shift frequently during sleep and are generally just on the go constantly.
Surely, if they can do all that, there’s no way they can be in pain, right?
Like us, dogs manage discomfort in many different ways
During my pregnancy, I experienced symphysis pubic dysfunction, where my pelvis started to move unevenly, I was more susceptible to this due to other conflicting conditions I have, including hypermobility syndrome.
Although I’ve had physio for the condition, I still have discomfort in my pelvis when stationary or lying on my back. However, when I continue to move, the pain disappears, and I can walk for miles.
Vet examination
During veterinary exams, dogs like this often do not show pain when examined, if the vet even gets a chance to examine them. Add any type of fear response on top of this when being handled, and the vet has no chance of feeling or seeing the discomfort.
When feeling fearful or overly excited, adrenaline is released, causing blood vessels to constrict, and diverting blood to major muscle groups like the heart and lungs. This surge in adrenaline reduces the body’s sensitivity to pain, allowing you to keep running from or confronting danger even if injured.
Many working breeds get overlooked when it comes to pain; these dogs were bred to work, and many would continue to do so until they dropped, if not managed carefully. I have worked with many who remained extremely active despite severe hip and elbow dysplasia, broken bones, cruciate tears, dislocations and more.
Effects of repetitive ball or toy play
Typically these are the breeds many people try and tire out with repetitive ball or toy-chasing games, believing that it helps with their working needs. Repeated back-and-forth chasing does not provide a natural outlet for any dog breed or type. It may hone into the chase part of a predatory sequence but that’s it. Spaniels for example are bred to flush prey into the sky and then retrieve the game that has been shot, Collies are bred to stop and start movement slowly and concisely. Jack Russells are bred to chase prey down but they either chase and the prey gets away or they chase and are successful in catching it and shaking them.
The way humans play leaves dogs in this adrenaline-fuelled state which makes them more over aroused and harder to tire. It increases adrenaline levels which can then become addictive looking like the dog is loving it but the dog is unable to switch off, which can then lead to unnatural obsessive behaviour in some dogs. It can take many hours for adrenaline levels to drop. Adrenaline, also known as epinephrine, is a stress hormone, repeated elevation of this, can increase anxiety and stress levels in other areas of your dog’s life.
When a dog is already in pain, certain behaviours can become addictive because elevated adrenaline levels can decrease the perception of pain. This reduction in pain perception may lead the dog to seek out activities that trigger the release of adrenaline, creating a cycle where the behaviour becomes addictive as a means of temporarily alleviating discomfort.
Chase games particularly ball play put dogs at very high risk of injury in the dog’s limbs, particularly the ligaments in the toes, wrists, and knees and when the ball bounces in unpredictable directions, it also poses a danger of injuries to other parts of the body, including bones, ligaments, joints, and muscles. Learn more about the effects of ball throwing in dogs.
Dogs are stoic, which is why conducting Dynamic Dog assessments is so important and has helped thousands of dogs get the support they need.
“Behind every stoic dog, there maybe a silent struggle”
Ear infections in dogs cannot only cause physical discomfort but also impact their behaviour. Recognising the signs of ear infections and understanding their potential behavioural implications is essential for dog owners. This article explores the connection between ear infections and canine behaviour, highlighting the importance of early detection and proper management.
Signs of an ear infection dogs
Recognising the signs of ear infections in dogs is crucial for timely intervention. According to veterinary expert signs may include a slightly dirty ear, head shaking, holding one ear lower than the other, head tilting, scratching, and wincing. These symptoms may indicate discomfort and potential underlying issues that could affect behaviour.
Behavioural signs of ear infections
Ear infections can manifest behaviourally in dogs, affecting their response to various stimuli. Dr. Sarah Wooten, a veterinarian, emphasises that dogs may associate pain from ear infections with specific triggers, such as touch or wearing certain equipment (Wooten, 2020). In many behaviour cases where dogs become sensitive to touch, putting on equipment like harnesses, or showing reactivity towards other dogs, past ear problems have been identified.
Pain in dogs is sometimes difficult to identify
It’s difficult to gauge the level of discomfort for each dog as it varies. Even during veterinary exams, many dogs may be tense or overwhelmed with fear and mask their discomfort well, especially working breeds or bull breeds bred for endurance and resilience, which may not show typical signs of discomfort.
Dogs can start associating pain with specific triggers, such as being approached and patted on the head, wearing a harness that goes over the head, or encountering a particular dog in the park. If you’ve experienced the frustration, discomfort, or pain of an ear infection and other common symptoms like nausea and dizziness, it’s worth being more mindful with your dog.
Managing the discomfort of ear infections
Proper management of ear infections involves not only medical treatment but also behavioural adjustments. Be mindful of interactions with a dog experiencing ear problems, minimise triggers that exacerbates discomfort. Avoid head rubbing and opt for under-chin or chest strokes, but watch the body language as this can be too much, as the skin is all connected. Keep interactions to one-hand soft, gentle strokes, ensuring the dog has the choice to move away. Make visitors aware to avoid touching the dog’s head and ideally take a hands-off approach altogether.
Choose a neck clip harness instead of one that goes over the head, particularly for breeds or dogs that constantly have problems. Be cautious during interactions with other dogs; they do not need to interact all the time, observing from afar is absolutely fine.
Address underlying causes of ear infections in dogs
Addressing underlying health issues, such as gut imbalances and dietary factors, is essential for preventing recurrent ear infections in dogs. Imbalances in gut bacteria can lead to systemic inflammation and a weakened immune system, increasing the likelihood of ear infections (Patel et al., 2016). Therefore, maintaining gut health through appropriate diet and supplementation may help reduce the risk of ear problems in susceptible dogs.
By understanding the link between ear infections and behaviour in dogs, owners can take proactive measures to address both the physical and behavioural aspects of these conditions, ultimately improving the well-being of their canine companions.
Punishment can cause fear, anxiety, and stress in dogs, temporarily suppressing behaviours without addressing underlying issues, potentially leading to further problems.
Breaks down trust between you and your dog
Punishment can weaken the bond and trust between you and your dog. Your dog can start associating you with negative experiences, causing a deterioration in your relationship.
It can lead to aggression
Physical punishments or severe corrections can result in your dog becoming understandably defensive or fearful, potentially leading them to use aggressive behaviour towards you or others.
What is considered punishment?
Correcting your dog with the lead
Applying force on the lead like tugging or yanking to discourage unwanted behaviour.
Shouting at your dog
Using harsh words or tones to express disapproval along with intimidating body language.
Punishing dog equipment
Using water sprays, pet correctors, shake cans, shock collars, choke chain, slip leads, spray collars or any equipment that scares or causes discomfort for the dog to deter behaviour.
Physical force
Using hitting, slapping, tapping, pinching, grabbing or any physical positioning popor restraining to discourage behaviour.
How do you manage unwanted dog behaviour then?
Preempt the dogs behaviour in advance
Address issues proactively by understanding the dog’s body language and triggers. Intervene early with cues to redirect behaviour. Provide mental and physical stimulation in advance, avoid triggers, or using tools like leads to prevent rehearsal. Manage unwanted behaviour while teaching alternatives.
Teach an incompatible behaviour
This involves training dogs to perform actions that cannot happen at the same time as unwanted behaviours. For instance, if a dog jumps on guests, teaching them four paws on the floor or to relax on their bed offers an alternative.
Use a positive interrupter
Teach a positive interrupter like a “kiss” “kiss” sound or a word like “hey” or “easy,” redirecting attention from unwanted to desirable behaviour. Praise or reward the dog’s response to foster positive communication and cooperation.
Training
Work on strengthening foundational training like leave, drop, come, wait and others, using positive based methods, practice in various situations, environments and around different distractions.
Teach a finished signal
Always teach a signal to indicate to a your dog when an activity like rewards, play and fuss has ended. This ensures they are not left limbo, helping avoid frustration which can lead to unwanted behaviour.
It can be tempting to go for a quick fix in dog training however they generally have a punishing component and can have a detrimental impact on your dogs mood and emotional state long term. Get support from a trainer or behaviourist that promotes kind, mindful, fair and positive methods.
Teach these exercises outside of needing them make them fun!
THIS WAY
Teach your dog to follow your direction, your dog can learn to create space around triggers in an arched fashion. Once they understand you’ll assist them in moving away, they’ll be more inclined to follow your guidance.
BEHIND
Train your dog to stay behind you approaching corners or when visibility is limited, avoiding collisions with triggers and enabling you to lead them forward, fostering a sense of security without them feeling they need to lead.
LETS GO
Teach your dog an emergency about turn this is vital for swiftly navigating tricky situations particularly in built up city type areas. It enables a quick exit from potentially hazardous scenarios, ensuring their safety during walks.
TIGHT LEAD
It’s common for a dog to learn when the lead goes tight by the handler there could be a trigger, teach them if the lead goes tight good things happen like rewards instead of them learning to be on high alert.
WAIT
Teach your dog to stop and wait for further instructions, prevents them from wandering off, running into approaching hazards. This request enables handlers to manage their dogs effectively to put them back on lead where necessary, ensuring they stay safe and even when off-lead.
These are just some of the exercises to focus on with your dog, to support them around the things they find difficult in life.
Are you treating your dog fairly, or should you adjust your expectations?
Here’s why you should stop.
Now, I understand this is easier said than done; it’s tricky. Take it from someone who finds herself at times comparing against all the amazing dog behaviourists and trainers out there. However, I must emphasize that while it’s good to be inspired, it’s not healthy to compare and doesn’t bring any benefits. That’s why it’s crucial not to compare your dog with another. I know it’s human nature, and we tend to do this in our personal lives, not to mention on our training journey with our dogs. The trouble arises because when we compare our dog’s skills and progress with another or ourselves with another owner or professional, it does us an injustice and can significantly impact our progress and relationship.
Even if you’re comparing your dog to another say a previous one or a dog of the same breed. Firstly if it’s an older dog that has past and you have a puppy, you may not truly remember the puppy or adolescent stages with the original dog or perhaps your children have all grown up and moved out and they were the ones that were entertaining the older dog when they were a puppy most of the time.
If for example you have a spaniel and you compare it against say someone walking their German Shepherd down the road, there’s a massive difference in their walking style. Spaniels cover ground when working as gun dogs in a zig zag type fashion, German Shepherds tend to sheep along perimeter lines, so is this a realistic comparison? If you are watching another dog that appears to be behaving how can you be sure it is not doing so because it is scared, or has an underlying health condition, or is that just their nature.
Dogs have different learning styles just like us, for example some focus on movement so if whilst teaching you are constantly moving your hands around, this makes it difficult for the dog to know what to focus on. But clear visual signals can help. Other dogs respond better to verbal cues, there are even dogs that learn from watching and then copying.
Researching what your dog was bred for can help you understand their learning style better but each dog has their own preference too. Dogs also learn at different rates, some get frustrated easy so we need to break tasks down, others get distracted easily so we need to keep motivation high or train initially somewhere quiet. Many dogs can be one step a head and can end up learning something different than we expected. This happens to dog trainers and behaviourists too so you are not alone.
As a professional I always focus on the dog in front of me and it’s vital we go at that dogs pace.
If you have been working hard with your dog it doesn’t mean that you’re doing something wrong, dogs are not blank slates. Even if you get your puppy at eight weeks they’ve had eight weeks of learning history before getting to you, before that there’s hereditary and genetic factors and even the stress of the mum during pregnancy will impact how your dog is doing with the world around them, which in turn impacts learning results.
Sadly we are in a society that wants quick fixes for everything, however the instant solutions you might observe on tv or social media usually have an aversive or punishing component, which has a detrimental effect long term on your dogs emotional state and can lead to further unwanted and sometimes dangerous behaviour.
When you’re comparing your dog what happens is you stop listening, you stop listening to when your dog is not comfortable with something or is finding the training difficult or is not getting it. Therefore frustration and even anger can start to arise.
If we take lead walking, for example, there are so many factors influencing your dog walking beside you on lead. Take pace for instance, some dogs cannot walk at the pace we are walking at. If you think about someone who walks slower than you naturally you walk faster and it’s hard to maintain their pace. If your dog is anxious they are going to want to move quickly in an environment, they may sniff the environment briefly and want to get back to their safe place as soon as possible. There’s so much they’re trying to take in and if they’re scared they’re gonna wanna walk quicker. There are multiple reasons why dogs pull.
What ever you are trying to train I urge you to try and take a step back and take one day at a time with your training, watch the dog in front of you and be kind to your self. Be mindful of how you are feeling and what mood you are in, dogs are sensitive to our mood states and it will affect their behaviour. It’s good to sometimes just spending time with your dog without doing anything specific, spending quality time without constant training. If you’ve just had a stressful day at work and then decided to take your dog out on a walk and you are still working on lead walking you might find your patience is shorter. You are not setting your dog up for success for learning and you’re putting yourself under pressure so either don’t take your dog out that day, choose a different time or just use this time to simply enjoy your dogs company.
Consider where you are getting your behaviour or training support from. Researching advice off of the internet can be detrimental to your success and will put your techniques into conflict, causing your dog to be more confused.
There is not a one size fits all approach to Dog Behaviour and Training, despite what you might see on TikTok, Facebook, Snapchat, or other media platforms. That’s why seeking guidance from a professional who can work with you individually, understanding your environment, your dog, your needs, and expectations, is more effective. They can help you set and achieve goals, considering the pace of both you and your dog.
Take a moment to step back, observe your actions from an outsider’s perspective, and if needed, seek support. Even a phone advice session with a trainer or behaviourist can provide valuable insights into what might not be working.
Many dog owners prioritise stopping their dogs’ jumping behaviour, considering it a troublesome habit that can potentially pose a risk to others. While this perspective is right and understandable from a human point of view, it’s essential to recognise that from a dog’s standpoint, jumping serves as a means of communication, and there are several underlying motivations behind this behaviour for you to be able to address the issue effectively. This is also why the conventional advice of simply turning your back on the dog, does not prove effective for many, as it only yields results with a limited number of dogs.
There is also often a difference in how it’s managed with small and big dogs. Management and control of this behaviour is heavily focused on with large dogs, due to risk of injury however small dogs not so much. Small dogs often just being reprimanded when it happens when you have your best clothes on or they have muddy paws and are about to jump on a stranger, without training them what we prefer them to do.
Jumping up behaviors are indeed observed in dog-to-dog interactions, although they are less common compared to interactions with people. This difference can be attributed in part to human influence through selective breeding, resulting in variations in size and temperament among breeds. Additionally, mounting behaviours may occur for sexual activity, if excitement levels become excessive or if the interaction becomes too overwhelming. Jumping can also be seen in play between certain dogs or during moments of rising tension and during a fight. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for interpreting canine behaviour accurately.
In my view, it’s crucial to gain an understanding of the underlying causes before attempting to tackle this issue. This understanding can contribute to success for both you and your dogs relationship. Some of the motivations behind their behavior might even catch you by surprise. Additionally, I’ve provided a set of straightforward initial guidelines to assist you in addressing what you might perceive as nuisance behaviour while helping your dog convey their needs effectively.
Jumping up as a greeting
Certain dogs exhibit high excitement upon your return, expressing relief, joy, or sheer happiness at your presence. Unlike us, they walk on four legs, and if you observe their interactions, you’ll notice they frequently start by sniffing the mouth before proceeding to the rear, especially when greeting familiar canines. Our upright posture can lead some dogs, especially those with a more appeasing disposition, to aim for the facial area during greetings.
This behaviour can often be unintentionally reinforced during a dog’s early stages, where puppies may jump up in certain situations, and we initially encourage it when we interact with them as they are small and cute. As they grow older, we may become frustrated with this behaviour due to getting scratched or fed up with our clothes being dirtied, even though it was our initial encouragement that taught the behaviour, dogs tend to repeat behaviours that they find rewarding or reinforcing.
Commonly people manage jumping up by pushing the dog down, shouting, ignoring the dog completely, folding arms and turning away or a combination of all these responses. The problem with the above reactions is either the dog is getting attention for the behaviour you don’t want or goes into appeasement see below, because you are getting angry or they get frustrated/distressed because they are getting no feed back at all, which can lead to more desperate attempts to gain interaction.
Be mindful how over the top your interaction is when greeting them, your dog will match your energy. This is also not a normal greeting for a dog, so can make them feel in conflict, if you watch how adult dogs with good social skills greet you will see it’s much calmer.
Preempt the jumping before it happens and reach down to their level, stroking their chest/shoulder calmly for paws on floor, you do not need to insist on a sit in fact this can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot and escalate their jumping. Keep greetings short many dogs are not looking for physical touch
Give them a special toy to hold, this can work particularly well with retrieving breeds and dogs whom enjoy holding or parading with an item.
Drop treats to the floor or on to a mat or bed away from the entrance way, when greeting visitors/strangers making the visitor boring, drop until completely calm, ensure you do not loop jump at visitors gets treats, preempt the behaviour
If they jump pause any interaction, step back, no talking to them or touching until feet are back on the floor and then calmly stroke
Use a hand target to redirect them down, no pushing them.
Build on duration of pauses between strokes for dogs that repeat jumping up when you stop interacting, teach an end signal when you are finished and then walk off, to prevent them being left in limbo and to learn that you are now unavailable and for them to go and relax.
Jumping up as appeasement
Like people some dogs just have a more appeasing nature than others, they are like the people pleasers of the human world. You may see body language like ears pinned back, jumping up and licking to avoid conflict. You often see this in dogs where the owners mood state might be up and down or the dogs behaviour has been managed aversively in the past or the person is intimidating.
This is why getting angry or physical cannot only be detrimental to the dogs well being but it actually heightens the jumping up behaviour, it’s their attempt to prevent conflict escalating. These dogs may seem they are instigating interaction but history can teach them that people when they make eye contact often head towards them so jump up in advance.
Do not force interaction, let them come to you, do not stare at them directly for long periods, these can make them jump up again
Stroke them gently and not over the top, avoid reaching over the top of them or touching on the head, focus on less intimidating areas are like under the chin, on the chest or shoulder using one hand in gentle circular motions. Two hands can cause them to feel trapped.
Avoid using shouting or physical threats to correct behaviour and particularly when they are jumping up as this will exacerbate the behaviour in a dog that is unsure
Avoid leaning over them, this can be intimidating which again triggers the jumping up crouch down instead if possible
Prevent strangers reaching out to touch them constantly, reward to the floor when people insist on interacting, listening when your dog wants to move away
Pause frequently during interactions giving choice to walk away
Jumping up when uncomfortable
Dogs that are anxious, fearful or uncomfortable in a situation will often jump up. This can be on you as an owner, as an indication that they are wanting to come away from the situation. You might see a dog jumping up and interacting with another dog owner, which can be a way that helps them avoid interactions with other dogs. This can occur repeatedly, particularly if the dog’s caregiver is missing the signals that the dog is finding something difficult so the dog seeks support from others.
You can also sometimes see this behaviour when people are heading directly at you dog or I see this particularly in puppies when walking along the road this can appear intimidating to dogs. Dogs greet in an arch like fashion, where as we head directly at one another or it appears that way when walking on the pavement. This jumping behaviour can become excessive/panicked with some dogs even turning to mouth or bite their lead or their owners which can be the fear response fawning. These puppies and dogs need to be supported to ensure their fear response does not escalate to more desperate attempts to gain distance like growling, barking, lunging or worse biting.
Work at a greater distance from the people/dogs/vehicles etc the dogs is finding difficult
Let them chose to approach or interact at their own pace, no pressurising them in to interacting
Visit environments that help them relax and decompress
Back away to allow for them to make a more confident approach
Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore
Build confidence using novelty/noise games and ACE techniques
Jumping up as a request
Dogs may learn to jump up as a way of requesting something, a behavior influenced by learning it works and occasionally fueled by frustration. Positive reinforcement, such as attention or treats, can inadvertently teach this behavior. For instance, if a dog jumps up, the owner asks them to sit, and then rewards them, the looped behavior may continue if the dog hasn’t been trained to stay.
Each dog’s learning style varies, with some becoming more frustrated than others. Building patience during food delivery is crucial, each dog is different so it’s important to go at the dogs level setting them up for success and not failure, preempting the behaviour in the first instance and reward profusely for what you would prefer them to do instead. Although sit is a common behaviour that is taught all the time this is not a necessity and can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot, standing calmly with all four feet on the floor is a behaviour that can be reward instead.
Preempt the behaviour so for example if it happens when you are eating/cooking teach them to settle on a mat, rewarding duration and distance whilst you are doing activities in the kitchen or when you are preparing their dinner reward them for calm behaviour before they get excited
Slow down and make training easier to avoid frustration jumping
Build on duration between rewards in small increments
Focus on core skills rather than tricks and what they prefer to do
Give fuss/rewards sooner and frequently for feet on floor
Use a finished signal to indicate that training, treats, play or interaction are over, to prevent the dog being left in limbo or getting frustrated the key to this is being clear and doing something else after the signal so the dog know you are no longer available
Jumping up to play
Jumping up during play can, again, be inadvertently taught. I often observe caregivers holding the toy up high, leading the dog to attempt to grab it. This behavior may stem from instances where the dog accidentally caught fingers during play, causing caregivers to snatch the toy away in fear, which actually in turn teaches the dog to try grabbing it again in excitement as the toy is moving quickly.
Alternatively, it could be an unintentional taught behaviour employed by handlers trying to teach their dogs to wait but inadvertently instilling frustration by not aligning with their dog’s learning style or setting them up for success.
Another factor is the inherently competitive nature of humans, making the game frustrating or teasing for the dog by not allowing them to win regularly or drawing out them getting the toy. Consequently, the dog may resort to jumping up in an attempt to grab the toy out of the persons hand. Frustration along with play sessions that are way to long can lead to overstimulation, which can result to a dog jumping up, even nipping and biting as excitement levels have become to high.
Keep toys at nose level or lower
Use longer trailing toys
Release the toy sooner to avoid frustration
Run the toy along the ground
Let them win frequently to avoid frustration mouthing/jumping
Teach a leave and get it cue so they know when to grab the toy and when not too, again both cues need to be taught by setting the dog up for success and not taught by snatching it away when you ask them to leave it
Keep plays to short 15 minute sessions
Again use a finished signal to indicate when play is ended or generally I suggest ending play with a chewing or foraging activity to bring excitement levels down
Jumping up to gain distance
Now this one often throws people because they think if a dog wants to gain distance from something they are uncomfortable with, say a stranger along the street or a visitor. Why would they lunge and jump up at them, why do they not just move away? My answer to this is usually history has taught them when they used subtle signals like pausing, avoidance, moving away in the past that indicated they wanted distance, the signals were either missed or ignored.
This can start from puppyhood in an attempt to “socialise” a dog handlers can think this means that a dog must be interacted with as many people as they can. Allowing people to constantly head at and touch their dogs without noticing the signals the dog is giving to indicate they are not enjoying the interaction. Overtime jumping and lunging can give the dog the distance they need by stopping the person moving, or getting them to move away or the owner moves the dog away through embarrassment of jumping up, therefore the dog learns the behaviour is successful.
Again like appeasement if the dog is not supported correctly or worse punished, they can associate people with further negative experiences and then escalate to more forceful behaviours like lunging, snapping and biting to keep potential threats approaching.
Work at distances they feel less threatened
Avoid greetings in the hallway or where they feel people are heading at them or cornering them
Teach them a positive association with another room that they can come out of or behind a gate that is not headed at
Let them approach strangers/visitors in their own time ask visitors to be hands off and to not reach out
Invite them to come to you verses you heading towards them
Back off at the subtle signs like lip licking and yawning, moving away
Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore
Being closely involved in a situation can make it difficult to perceive the reasons behind your dog’s behavior. As humans, our inclination is often to just focus on stopping or correcting the behavior, yet true success hinges on understanding the possible emotional state driving the behavior in many cases.
This page is designed to quickly access some of the products that I have used and often talked about during my sessions, the content on this page will be forever changing as new and improved products come on the market. These products are my preferences but all people and dogs are different and what suits one may not suit another.
Select images for further details
Silicone Treat Pouch – I find this dog treat pouch from Dexus really useful, I don’t clip it on my belt as I do not want the dogs I am working with fixated on it but it’s excellent to stick in your pocket and to get the treats out easily and most importantly quickly. It is really hygienic too really easy to wash. No more smelly treat bags. Available in many colours.
Double Ended Dog Lead – I love this lead by Mekuti, I have used it for many years and have not gone for another. The softex material it is made out of, means it’s kind on hands even with the strongest of pullers. This lead comes in two thicknesses and 3 lengths 2m, 2.5m (my general lead) and 3m. This can be used on a two point harness or just as a longer lead as you can turn one end into a handle my favourite way of using it. The same as other double ended leads you can change the length of the lead too by clipping to different points on the lead.
Recall Lead – If you want a reliable recall i.e. your dog coming back when you need them too. You need one of these, you need to be 100% sure they will come back before letting them off. If you start off with them off lead and then they learn not to respond to your come request you will have a dog that rehearses not coming back to you because they can. Again like the Mekuti lead this is made of softex material kinder to your hands. It comes in different lengths but I work with the 10m length one. Long lines should be attached to a harness and never a collar they can cause severe damage to the neck.
Blue-9 Balance Harness Buckle Neck – Designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harness™ has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.
Perfect Fit Fleece Harness – Another great harness which is fleece lined making it more comfortable for the Dog especially with short fur or delicate skin. Good for the dogs that get cold out there but be careful in the summer as this harness can make some dogs sweat and if your dog suffers from skin problems the extra moisture could make it worse. What’s really good about this harness is it comes in three pieces which means it can be perfectly fitted to your dogs shape and size and you can send back the individual pieces to get the sizing right.
Safety Link – Although not specifically designed for this purpose I find this halti link useful for attaching a dogs collar to their harness especially for the Houdini types. Simply slip the looped end through the harness closest to your dogs collar and then use the clip end on your dogs collar ring. This comes in different sizes.
Freedom Handle – I use this in conjunction with the double ended lead for clients that like to have a handle, these are great material too soft on the hands.
Settle Mat – I love this although it’s labeled as a crate mat, they make great settle mats, they can be rolled up to take with you to friends, pubs, cafes, restaurants and can double up as a shallow snuffle mat, anti slip backing and washable cover.
Dog Water Bottle – It’s important to always remember to take out water for dogs in all weather they get thirsty in the cold too! Some dogs like dirty water, others have no other option. This effects training mouths will be dry causing reluctance to take treats & then the treats & what your are teaching is no longer rewarding. This water bottle is a great design with a hook to take with you where ever you go. Be mindful to always introduce them at home first, a new object forced towards them can be frightening and prevent them from drinking.
Muzzle – I believe every dog should be trained to wear a muzzle and like having it on, yes this is possible. All dogs have the potential to bite especially those in pain. It’s much better to train a dog to enjoy wearing one, rather than having to force it on when your dog may already be stressed after a road traffic accident for example. Muzzles are used for many different reasons these days even for dogs that constantly pick up and eat things from the floor when out on walks. It is vital you go for the plastic or biothane basket type muzzles as the material ones mean dogs cannot pant and usually dogs wearing them are stressed and need too. The Ultra Muzzle or Buma allows them to pant, drink and even has an area that allows dogs to take treats.
Car Harness – It is important to have your dog/puppy safely restrained in a car for your safety as well as your dogs. There are many harnesses that are out there but you must always go for one that is actually crash tested. The ezydog car harness is one option.
My Utility Jacket – I often get asked about the jacket I wear because people are surprised the equipment I can be carrying on me. There are so many pockets on this jacket I feel like the Mary Poppins of the dog world. I carry my long line, leads, freedom handle, dog toys, Poo bags, business cards and more in it, this is one of my best buys.
Mud Daddy – Great to wash your dogs paws off but ensure you get them used to it positively first and excellent for washing muddy boots. I keep this in my car. It also comes in useful for trips to the beach, washing sand off etc
Bed – For a dog to be comfortable their beds should be big enough to do a superman pose in, so legs stretched out fully in any direction the average pet dog has a bed that’s too small or not comfortable. This can also affect gait and posture. Comfort is important too there are a number of types of beds working out what your dog likes is not always easy but these Barney Beds or Big Barker beds often go down well.
Rugs – This might appear random I know but the average households these days have floors that are too slippery for dogs that cause niggling injuries where they have to make micro adjustments to stabilise this can bring on early arthritis and also cause injury and anxiety as the dog is unable to relax. This rugs have a really good anti slip bottom that is good on a large number of floor types.
In my job, I tend to get contacted for more male behaviour problems than female.
Is this because males are more troublesome than females?
While there can be differences between male and female dogs, regarding certain hereditary traits and roles, it’s worth considering that the behaviour differences may also be because care givers have different treatment approaches for male and female dogs.
In my experience, I have noticed that caregivers often demonstrate a nurturing and empathetic approach when interacting with females, while taking a more disciplined approach when interacting with males, with an emphasis on fostering independence.
Caregivers generally approach interactions with females by using gentle stroking and being cautious about engaging in excessive play. In contrast, when interacting with males, caregivers often adopt a more hands-on approach to management, utilising rougher patting and actively participating in activities like wrestling and rough housing. Female caregivers often have a lower tolerance for biting compared to male caregivers, individual approaches to managing male and female dogs can vary based on personal preferences and experiences. It is crucial to understand that these observations should not be interpreted as stereotypes or sexism, but rather as general tendencies.
During walks, I see handlers exhibiting a higher level of caution when it comes to approaching female socialisation as puppies, particularly when they reach sexual maturity around intact males. This caution is primarily to avoid any unintended pregnancies. As a result, females may be given more distance during their adolescent period, where anxiety and potential fear can be heightened, possibly having a positive impact on their socialisation experiences.
If play with other dogs becomes overly boisterous, caregivers often choose to move females on sooner, recognizing their discomfort. On the other hand, with males, if they display uncertainty or fear, there is often more pressure on them to continue the interaction in order to overcome their fears. Similar to the treatment of children, boys are often encouraged to exhibit traits of strength, independence, and confidence. These gender stereotypes can also influence the way dogs are perceived and treated by caregivers.
When it comes to neutering, male dogs are often neutered with the expectation that it will help address unwanted behaviors such as marking or humping, and there is a belief that it may also calm them down. It’s important to note that humping behavior is not solely driven by hormones, and it can be observed in both male and female dogs. While many females exhibit this behavior, neutering is not always the first solution that comes to mind. Humping can be a response to stress or high excitement levels in dogs of both genders. Neutering to address health problems in dog maybe a secondary consideration from a dog owners point of view. On the other hand, females are typically spayed to prevent pregnancy, certain health issues, or to manage hormonal imbalances.
Each and every dog is a unique individual with distinct needs, temperament, and preferences. It is crucial to prioritise their well-being and take into account their individuality and be careful not to manage their behaviour according to their gender. This is not intentional by any means, it’s just something to become self aware of. By approaching each dog as an individual, we can provide them with the optimal care, promoting their overall happiness and fulfillment.
You will find the top searched for question on Google is “How do I stop my puppy biting?”
You’ve probably even done it yourself. The reason most people cannot find the solution they’re looking for is that the information out there is actually pretty generic and the truth is there is not a one size fits all approach.
Puppies bite for a number of reasons and it’s not just because they’re teething. Let’s face it, the biggest problem with it is that they have razor sharp teeth at this age and it really hurts!
For you to find the solution for your puppy. You need to know all the reasons and how to help them not feel the need to bite you or your clothes in different situations.
Handling, puppies have to get used to being touched. Puppies do not sit there stroking each other in the litter, in fact, dogs do not pet each other at all. We touch dogs much more than they want to be touched and far more than we would touch each other. Often puppies do not find stroking as rewarding as we think at the start, it takes a while for them to find it enjoyable. Now if you look at it from a dog’s point of view, sometimes we can be pretty annoying when we’re touching them. So one of the reasons they might be nipping hands is to say I don’t like that.
We do of course need to get puppies used to being handled because people are going to touch them with or without consent. But this should be done in a positive way pairing it with rewards, doing it in mini sessions and giving them breaks before they try to nip stroke with one hand only, gives them the choice to move away. Stroke in a calm way. Find the spot your puppy likes under the chin on their chest are normally places they prefer rather than over the head. Try stroking when they’re calm, not when they’re playing or over excited. Otherwise they will just play with you like you’re another dog, with their mouth. Keep it brief initially, always stroke then pause for a few seconds to see if they want more and then repeat.
Frustration is another cause for puppies to bite us. We sometimes are a competitive species, particularly when we’re playing a game of tug. There’s a lot of controversy around playing tug games stemming from outdated advice, one of them suggesting you should always win, firstly where’s the fun in that! This can teach puppies not to trust you around items causing them to feel the need to guard and also it makes the game pretty boring. If you do not release the toy regularly, they might resort to biting you to make you drop the toy sooner or they give up and find something else to do.
When playing tug with your puppy keep them engaged by letting it trail on the floor, bouncing it around like pray and then tug gently when they get it and then let them win, then repeat. This will drive them back to you to play more. It sometimes good to have two toys keeping it interesting for the puppy. Tug toys that are around a metre long helps keep puppies at a distance
If your dog likes to parade around with it in their mouth and not drop it or takes it to chew. This is not an invitation to play and remove it from them. In fact, this can cause distrust, lead them to chew or play with it the way they like.
Managing physically, whilst puppies are young, particularly for smaller breeds, we have a habit of physically removing them and picking them up constantly. Hands can become pretty negative to them. This can again cause frustration, leading them to nip us to say put me down or to make us get off them when putting new equipment like leads and harnesses on puppies, they have no idea what it is. With us leaning over them or grabbing them, it can be pretty scary. When putting new equipment or clothing on them, it’s important to break this process down and pair every step with treats until they’re comfortable having it on and teach a hand target and leave it to get them to move away or come to you, rather than being physically forceful.
Teething, when the biting is related to teething you will find they are trying to get what ever it is in their mouth and generally to their back teeth, fingers feel so good on teeth and for them it can appear you are trying to take their teething toy away. Always have some edible and non edible chews available to hand as they need to chew a lot. You can put toys in the freezer and give frozen carrots finding, what your puppy enjoys chewing is the trick as each puppy is different.
You can get coffee wood chews specifically for dogs that crumble instead of splinter, pizzles, other meat or vegetable based chews and yak milk chews are great, find what’s right for your puppies age. It is vital particularly when they are resting near you to have these within arm’s reach. As chewing is often common when puppies are tired, chewing releases a calming hormone so usually the thing nearest to them will be gnawed on to get them off to sleep.
Teething starts around eight weeks just at the time they’re in their new home and goes on until about eight months. Usually the worst period for teething is between 12 to 16 weeks when tooth eruption is at its highest.
Play, puppies play using their mouth and feet, it’s a little like wrestling. If it moves, puppies investigate and like to pounce on it and mouth it.
All puppies can see is everything below, the knee moving along and it’s fun. Add to this dangling clothing like dressing gown chords and you’ve just made it the best game ever! During this exciting period, prevent temptation by tucking things in, wearing clothes that are not great tug toys and keep the fluffy slippers upstairs until they’re a little older. With children it is important to prevent puppy practising chasing and biting. The long fleece tug toys are good if your child really wants to play with them however it’s also important children do other activities with puppy. Get them involved in designing enrichment activities like; searching for treats, hiding a toys or kong, stuffing boxes or making a towel burrito with treats rolled up in it, this means they’re involved with puppy but not always wanting to pick them up and play with them all the time, getting them over aroused and over tired, where the puppy then constantly bites them. Getting children involved in training is important so puppy doesn’t want to see them as something to chase all the time. Management is crucial. So puppies don’t rehearse the behaviour preempting it is important. If the chasing happens whenever the kids come home, set up an enrichment activity for puppy and children to do together or use pens and barriers when they cannot be supervised to keep them apart.
Witching hour, puppies are crespuscular, which means they’re more active at dawn and dusk. This normally ties in when you’re getting ready for school and work or when everyone is home in the evening trying to relax. It’s important to get the balance right of your puppies routine. Puppies need a lot of sleep between 16 to 20 hours a day, overtired puppies nip, they become restless and they get zoomies which often looks like their biting is more deliberate and is then often made worse because everyone is trying to grab them and there are more people in the house. The biggest mistake new owners make is thinking walking them and playing with them loads tires them out but this does the complete opposite, sniffing, chewing, enrichment activities and training are the things that are more calming not play, which is why it’s important to end play with an activity like this to dissipate their arousal levels. It’s important that they get good quality rest where they are not disturbed, touched or woken, they should wake up naturally where ever possible. If they do not get enough sleep in the day, they can get restless at night too. When they get like this, it’s about getting them in a quiet space providing a chew or stuffed calm to bring their arousal down.
So what do you do when puppies do by first always have toys and choose within reach of you and rotate them to keep them interesting? You can never have too many. Start using a finished signal to let puppy know when it’s the end of training, treats, play or fuss, this helps them learn how to switch off. I will let puppies mouth me a little if it’s gentle and not hurting. I need them to know the difference and what a soft mouth is. If there is firm contact, stop interacting for a second and slowly move your hand or any other part of you that’s in the mix. Teaching them pain means that play stops briefly. As soon as they stop divert to a toy and play with that toy, moving it away from them, getting them to chase it. Do not try and force it into their mouths as this will make them more likely to just latch back onto you. If the puppy is biting continues and the toy is not satisfying them, remove yourself for a few seconds, making sure you take a different toy on your way out and then go back and offer the toy to play with.
If they are overstimulated or tired, they cannot learn anything. So at this stage, you need to calm them down by giving them an activity in their crate, pen or bed to bring them down, remember sniffing, licking and chewing are things that will calm our puppies.
“Fawning” is where the brain decides to try and please whoever is triggering the fear response to prevent conflict.
These dogs and puppies are often excessively jumping up at visitors or lunging when walking pass people or dogs on walks. Along with this behaviour they can sometimes be nipping, humping, repetitive licking, ears back, panting with the dog generally restless and not able to relax in peoples or dogs presence.
You may find you are out with a group of people with their dogs and your dog spends most of their time jumping up at the other people and you, avoiding interacting with the other dogs. This maybe an indication that the dog is feeling uncomfortable with the dogs presence and is looking for a way out of the situation or is trying to avoid conflict. You see the jumping up more towards the other people in the group particularly when the dogs care giver, has wanted to socialise their dog and the dog has wanted to move away but the signals have been missed in the past.
Sadly these behaviours are often punished as jumping up is usually frowned upon, as it can be frustrating for the care givers, particularly when it’s visitors or strangers because it is embarrassing and of course it can put people at risk of getting hurt, depending on the size of the dog.
You might have worked at asking for sit at the door or when greeting people and it has never worked because sitting is a vulnerable position to be in when you are uncomfortable. It is like putting a lid on a boiling pot, you can get more over the top behaviour when released, as a forced sit is not a relaxing behaviour, it causes more tension.
Telling off can then exacerbate an already uncomfortable dog. The dog gets more stressed in the situation because their care givers are agitated, which then increases the dog behaviour further, with the dogs desperate attempts to prevent more conflict, creating a “vicious circle”.
You can often see excessive friendliness when visiting the vets, which could be identified as “fawning” as a fear response to being examined or due to sensing the other animals fear in the surgery.
There is no difference between dogs who use fawning, aggressive behaviour, cowering trying to hide or are frozen when scared, they all need need the same support.
These dogs generally need space, you need to work at distances that the dogs can relax, being headed at can make dogs uncertain and you will see some subtle signals way before they start jumping up, like suddenly sniffing the ground. You know when you see someone in a shop and you think ‘oh no they will keep me here for ages’, so you try not to make eye contact reading anything close by even if its a bag of frozen peas, this is similar to what you see in dogs trying to avoid people or dogs that are approaching, as they get closer you then see the fawning behaviour. Letting them observe from a distance they can relax will help them process and feel more comfortable, often these dogs just have not had enough time to process calmly the things around them or have had strangers heading at them to stroke them as puppies so preempt people are going to come and man handle them.
Dogs like this need a safe space away from visitors and to be taught how to relax in the space, trusting they will not get approached or bothered there. The visitors also need to be aware to keep their hands and prevent staring at the dog, giving them complete space so the dog is able to relax in their presence and approach in a calmer state if they wish too. But depending on the dog, the visitor still needs to prevent most of the interaction.
If they are not supported this behaviour can eventually lead to them resorting to growling, barking, snapping and biting to increase distance. This is why when I work with adult dog cases that are using what we label as ‘aggressive behaviours’, the clients often tell me the dog used to be all over people when they were puppies would be jumping up constantly and then rolling on their back (another conflict avoiding signal). These are dogs who have had their message over looked and misinterpreted.
One last reason that you may see the fawning response is avoidance of being touched or approached due to discomfort from an underlying condition. As we know dogs are stoic and it is sometimes very hard to diagnose discomfort and pain even in a veterinary situation, which is why a full consultation or dynamic dog assessment is usually required.
Of course like any behaviour in dogs we observe, observe, observe. This is just one area that I feel should be reconsidered, when you see what looks like an over excited, excessively friendly, totally barmy dog. It might simply be them looking for help and out of a stressful situation.
“First seek to understand before expecting to be understood.”
What ever the weather, it’s always important to take water out with you for your dog on walks. Dogs get thirsty the same as us and often are running about more. You might say “but my dog doesn’t drink on walks”, continue reading to find out why that might be.
If you don’t have water with you, dogs can end up disappearing in search of water, possibly drinking from a puddle or worse a stagnant ditch. Now don’t get me wrong some dogs just love drinking dirty water, and different water sources can have different minerals that they could be potentially seeking. However having a fresh safer options on you, is far more preferable.
Have you ever been training your dog and they stop taking the treats? This could be because they are thirsty and it’s not rewarding, when you have a dry mouth to take more food, especially if you are using the dry biscuit type. Therefore it could become punishing to the dog to perform the behaviour you are actually training at the time.
Water is also another resource you can use as a reward for recall, as we all know if we are thirsty having a drink feels good. What is important however is never withhold water from them for training purposes!
Dogs with anxiety or ones that find some experiences outside stressful, often drink more water. So it’s vital when working on behaviour rehabilitation that these dogs are offered water on a regular basis, or you may find they switch off from treats quicker.
I have been told on a number of occasions by dog guardians, that their dog will not drink water when out on walks, this maybe the case however the first questions I ask is:
“Has your dog drank from the bowl or bottle that you’re offering them to drink from when outside before?”
“Was enough time given to your dog before the walk to be come familiarised with the item, to enable them to feel comfortable with it?”
You will be surprised how many dogs I see that are actually scared of the water bowl/bottle dispenser that is being offered to them, or the way in which the water is presented to them. For some dogs it can be quite unsettling to be suddenly introduced to a weird novel object, then to have said object enthusiastically thrusted into their face or under their nose, this can appear to be somewhat threatening to a dog.
It’s really important with all equipment, that your dog is actually comfortable drinking from it, so it should be introduced in the house first with them happily using it, comfortable with you approaching them with it and then taken with you on the walk. Always get your dog to walk towards you rather than you moving to them with it in your hand. Normally they drink from a stationary bowl at home, and you are now moving towards them with something odd, sometimes in a forceful way (because you care), as you can see they are thirsty.
Another factor is how much water is dispensed, licking shallow water or dribbles out of a bottle doesn’t quench thirst and therefore some dogs do not bother. Dogs use the back of their tongue like a scoop, lifting the water up and into their mouth see the following video https://youtu.be/63Ch2pNkZwU so ensure you have poured enough out before calling your dog over.
If they generally do not drink outside and also rarely do at home it’s worth considering the following, mains water in different locations can be highly chlorinated which can prevent dogs from wanting to drink it and actually can have other adverse effects. This is why some dogs prefer filtered or natural spring bottle water.
Dogs can also be getting lot of moisture from the the food/treats they are getting, so it consuming it that way.
an option for these dogs not only to take water just incase, but also more watery treats like melon, cucumber any juicy fruit to provide a refreshing alternative, of course that’s if they like fruit, and it’s provided in moderation.
What ever dog you have, it’s vitally important that dogs have the option to drink whilst they are out.
These days it’s common for many houses to have laminate, wooden or tiled flooring. Often people already have it in the house before they have got their dog or puppy home.
The trouble is dogs really struggle with slippery floors and have to work very hard to stabilise on them. For them it can be like walking on ice on a daily basis.
You may notice when asking them to sit their feet splay out or worse knees and hips and many end up lying frequently even when they don’t actually want to. This is a real risk with puppies that are still growing sustaining long term joint issues.
It can make dogs restless as they have to fight to stabilise constantly, making micro adjustments as they regularly walk across the floor, this can cause anxiety in some dogs and can impact other fear related behaviours.
More importantly it often causes nagging injuries, strains, joint problems and more. Now your dog may not be showing any signs of pain physically but remember dogs are stoic they often do not show any lameness or limping until their pain level is about a 6 and often only vocalise pain when it’s at its highest.
Tips to reduce the risks:
Use anti slip rugs and runners strategically placed, when coming in through door ways at the bottom of the stairs and to break large surfaces up. Anti slip tape can be used for stairs.
Make sure their beds are anti slip too as getting on them can cause strains if they move, you can use the anti slip tape to put on the bottom of them rather than buying new beds.
Ensure bowls, snuffle mats etc are anti slip or on an anti slip surface like a silicone tray and the dog is standing on a secure surface when using.
Use paw wax or paw grip spray when visiting venue that have slippery surfaces, this can help some dogs gain traction when walking across the surface.
Have paw hair trimmed professionally, paw fur can make it very difficult to get any grip at all whilst walking and keep nails trimmed.
Do not play on slippery surfaces, play only on carpeted areas or in the garden.
Keep the surface dry and thoroughly wipe dogs feet when it’s been wet.
Do not ask them to sit on an unstable surfaces.
You can get pet safe anti slip surface sprays or paint this coats the flooring so there is more grip.
If you can afford it for the long term replacing flooring with an anti slip surface would be ideal.
Having a new puppy can be a bit of an emotional roller coaster at times, but it’s often the lesser talked about reality of new puppy parenthood. It can leave you feeling a little isolated, frustrated, and even perhaps regretful. It’s the puppy blues in full effect!
I’m going to let you into a well-kept secret that I think will help you. A large percentage of the issues we see with puppies are not actually training issues at all.
There are two things that are leading to you feeling overwhelmed, conflicted, and possibly even guilty about life with your new puppy. You might be surprised to learn that they are both fairly easy to overcome once you identify them.
So what are they, Jo? I hear you cry.
Expectations and too much information.
In this puppy blues blog, we will delve into both of these factors so you can recognise them, manage them and come out the other side with your sanity intact and a dog you love deeply and understand.
So, let’s start with expectations.
Puppy Blues: Is it normal to feel regret after getting a puppy?
You had a vision of what life was going to look like when you welcomed your puppy or rescue dog home. And this isn’t it.
You’re exhausted. You’re monitoring your puppy’s toileting habits constantly, you’re sleep-deprived, and you’re frankly covered in bite marks gifted to you by your little shark puppy’s razor-sharp teeth.
It’s disappointing, upsetting, frustrating, and you might even be feeling like getting your puppy was a terrible idea. Don’t panic! It’s also normal!
Guess what?! Your puppy is more than likely behaving like a puppy. The problem is not you, and it’s not your puppy. He isn’t some devilish spawn that you should never have invited into your life.
The problem is that you weren’t given an honest reflection of what these early weeks and months might look like. It’s not your fault.
You read all the books and boffed up before getting him home, but now it’s like everything you read was written for someone else.
I’ll tell you why. There isn’t much out there that highlights the fact that your puppy will not master everything you try and train immediately. And that’s not because you’re not doing it right. It’s because there are developmental milestones that have to be reached before that training will cement. Training takes time.
Why is my puppy so hard to train?
Your 9-week old puppy cannot physically hold their wee and poo in. They are not developed enough to do so. Your puppy doesn’t have the capacity to be fully toilet trained until approx 16 weeks old, when he can begin to learn to hold his toileting needs until he’s in an appropriate place.
That doesn’t mean there’s no point in doing any toilet training. There is. But it means that you can allow yourself to relax a little and enjoy the little successes which are slowly adding up.
Let go of berating yourself (and your puppy) whenever you find a puddle somewhere you’d rather not. It’s going to happen. Stock up on kind words for yourself and your puppy, enzymatic cleaner to remove odours and stains, and treats for celebrating the toileting that is happening in the right places.
And trust that it will pay off. These little accidents may be frustrating, but they won’t be forever.
The puppy biting you’re experiencing is also normal. Your puppy is teething, prone to becoming overtired in the blink of an eye and learning about the world with her mouth. You can do things to help your puppy with their sore teeth, but it is unrealistic to think you can completely eradicate any biting.
Those sleepless nights or hideously early mornings? Yup, normal! Again, there are things we can do to make it easier on you and your puppy, but it’s unlikely that you’ll be gifted a puppy who sleeps 12hrs straight as soon as they enter your life.
The fun and joy you expected from puppy life are in there. You will enjoy your life with your dog.The puppy blues will pass!
You just need some help to adjust your expectations so that you can revel in your training successes and actually recognise when they happen. You might find that your puppy training is actually going swimmingly, you just need a different perspective… and perhaps a couple of small tweaks to help you on your way.
Who can I trust – there is so much conflicting information
I remember when I first had my son, Logan. Yes, I’m talking about a human child, but stick with me, it is relevant, I promise.
I drove myself round the bend, worrying about whether I was getting it right. I’d read so many books while pregnant, but my views were completely different when he arrived.
So what did I do? I turned to Google, of course!
And I didn’t stop there. I read various books, talked to friends, and tied myself in little knots once I’d acquired a ton of conflicting advice.
It was overwhelming, confusing, and very unhelpful.
We all have really good gut instincts, but we go down these rabbit holes seeking information, and we often end up ignoring or even fighting against our gut.
I have clients who have achieved great results using books or videos from YouTube. They have developed amazing skills which have helped them to train their dogs. But there is still something missing.
For a lifetime of success, understanding, and a strong bond with your dog, you need to not just be able to teach behaviours but to have a clear understanding of your dog’s behaviour.
What’s beneath the problems you are experiencing? When you understand your dog’s specific needs, what motivates him, what he struggles with and what emotions he is experiencing, you are both set up for an incredible relationship.
That can’t be taught in a generic video or picked up from a well-meaning dog friend because your dog is unique. There will be different motivations, life experiences, breed traits and so much more that affect your dog’s perspective on the world.
Let’s go back to Logan for a minute. Imagine I told a friend he screamed all night, and I was at my wit’s end. And imagine my friend told me that she had a similar experience, and her baby was hungry, so she gave her an extra feed before bed, and the problem was solved.
So off I toddle, and I give Logan a huge top up feed before bedtime. Only he doesn’t sleep soundly. He screams even more and for longer. Because the reason he couldn’t sleep was reflux, and the extra milk just made that 10x worse. This is a made-up story, but I just want to highlight how if we seek out information without a two-way exchange, it can quickly lead us into bigger problems.
Just like children, our puppies and dogs need us to be consistent. And with the best of intentions, when we bounce from pillar to post trying different techniques from various people, it simply doesn’t work. In fact, a lot of the time, it creates bigger problems, because we are now unpredictable to our dogs (or kids), and that doesn’t foster confidence or security.
What should I focus on with my puppy?
Your puppy is like a baby, he/she needs you. The absolute best thing you can do for your puppy (and your future self) is to help your puppy to grow in confidence. The typical dog training obedience stuff can come later. The early weeks and months are all about supporting your puppy and helping him/her to feel secure and safe.
This solid foundation will enable you to build a strong relationship with your puppy. And that foundation will make it a million times easier to teach your puppy the vital skills they need to grow into an assured, confident, and happy dog.
You can begin teaching cues such as drop and leave to help keep your puppy safe, of course. I don’t mean that you should completely ignore all elements of training your puppy. But the area of most importance is your relationship and their feeling secure.
So, if you’re not going to Google everything and ask every dog owner you know, what’s the alternative?
“I wish I had got help from the beginning” is a phrase I hear from clients all the time. Initially, they tried using a book or the internet to help them with their puppy woes, but the reality was they became even more overwhelmed.
They wound up pulling their hair out and making things so much harder for both themselves and their puppy.
Prevention is better than cure
Don’t put off puppy training until you have a problem. It will be so much harder for you and your puppy.
Being proactive to prevent problems or getting help as soon as they arise sets you and your puppy up for success both now and in the future. Whether you’re having a tough time or you’d like to try and prevent a challenge from occurring, having a professional you can call on to discuss your individual situation is a huge relief.
How choosing one to one puppy training support can help you overcome the puppy blues
Group puppy training classes usually teach general obedience training covering things like sit, stay, recall, and drop. And while these can be helpful skills to learn, you then have to take what you’ve learned in a class environment and progress it in the outside world alone. And that can be tricky without someone coaching you through the little hiccups that occur in day-to-day life.
Choosing one to one dog training support means that we work on your specific challenges and your unique goals. We consider your lifestyle, the things that are important to you, and we work on a bespoke plan for your puppy or dog and support you through putting it into action.
I’m not just a dog trainer and behaviourist, I support the humans I work with. If you have a safe person to turn to it makes it a million times easier for you to be the safe person for your puppy.
And it helps you get over those inevitable humps without falling down a Google hole, only to emerge confused, even more exhausted, and utterly fed up.
Instead, you have one person to reach out to who will give you consistent, tailored advice and support that meets your needs and those of your puppy. Hurrah!
So that vision you had of life with a confident and calm dog by your side that can stride through life with you no matter what happens is your reality.
If you’re struggling with the puppy blues, then please don’t suffer alone. Reach out and get in touch with me, and let’s banish those puppy blues so you can enjoy your new pup!
Harnesses are like a pair of shoes, a badly fitted one can effect movement, rub and generally be uncomfortable. This can impact how dogs walk, their behaviour in general on the lead and for puppies how they grow. It can encourage pulling to alleviate pressure or the position of the D ring can cause them to pull forward to keep balance. Many pet shops sell poorly designed harnesses.
This harness is not tight enough and is slipping and is rubbing as the dog walks.
There are lots of harnesses that state they are non pull this is usually because it is hindering the stride in the front legs or tightening around the armpits.
Hindering stride as rubbing on shoulder joint
You want one that sits above the shoulders so they can take a full stride, is clear of the armpit area and sits before the mid section of the spine where the bones point towards each other. The ideal harness has a Y front, is fixed and a good size back section specifically for the dogs shape.
Rubbing under arm pit and causing this dog to limp, loose and hindering shoulder joint.
I generally (although this is dog dependant) do not recommend walking on collars as it can cause a lot of discomfort around the neck and throat not to mention cutting off oxygen in the way we hold it or if they pull. Short nose breeds should always be walked on a harness. A long line should always be attached to a harness too, NEVER a collar it can cause whiplash and worse.
Top 3 Harnesses I recommend
Perfect Fit
The Perfect Fit Harness is one on my recommended list, these come in a huge array of sizes and three pieces for the bigger breeds so if one part doesn’t fit right you can send one piece back and it works the same way as they grow, as you can buy the next size up for the piece they have grown out of it replace sections if ever damaged. This harness is fleece lined with neck clips for the dogs who also are not comfortable with putting their head through the harness.
Tellington TTouch
The Tellington TTouch harness was designed and developed in the UK by Sarah Fisher to help dogs walk freely in balance on a loose lead, and to minimise pressure on important anatomical structures in dogs’ necks. The TTouch harness is manufactured in the UK from colour fast webbing and high quality D and O rings. It has contoured plastic clips on both sides of the neck piece and back piece. This enables the handler to fit the harness without triggering concern by putting the harness over the dog’s head or by lifting the dog’s front leg. It is easily removed by releasing the clips without the need to pull the harness over the head which can cause anxiety for some dog.
Blue 9 Balance Harness
The Blue K9 Balance Harness designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harness™ has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.
A lot of shop bought harnesses have just one point of contact, all of the above harnesses have a ring at the front and a ring at the back (T Touch has a choice of two) for attaching the lead, making it both versatile and practical. By clipping a leash to the front of the harness instead of a collar, tension is reduced on the dog’s neck and back, helping to influence the dog’s balance and centre of gravity (thus improving gait and posture). Control is maintained simply by giving a gentle ask and release signal to the lead clipped to the front of the harness.
What is important is introducing the harness positively, we can often get away with putting things on puppies and some dogs because we can lift them up to do it, often we do not realise they are not comfortable with this. Dogs will give subtle signs that are often missed like lip licking, yawning, panting, cowering or them nipping us as an indication for us to stop. Over time when the harness comes out they can run a mile or sometimes even become aggressive.
Pair the whole process with lot of treats until they are comfortable; for sniffing the harness, putting nose towards harness, harness touching them, nose through hole, head going through, then dropping some on to a towel or snuffle mat to get the strap around their waist, then as soon as it’s on play with them and have fun. Listen when they are saying stop and go slower if they are.
Do not tie it instantly with going out on a walk particularly for any puppies/dogs that have never been on a walk or dogs that are a frightened outside as we can then accidentally teach them harness equals something scary. It’s important to take your time with the process, this will pay off in the end and ensure your dog is not anxious before the walk even gets started.
If your dog pulls remember to work on your loose lead walking, you must also rule out any anxiety on walks as this triggers pulling to get past things they are not comfortable with or physical discomfort as some dogs pull as a result of reduced mobility through the hind quarters.
Hi Guys so we are in the midst of the COVID 19 lockdown, I have been putting off writing anything about this subject because we was not quite sure how long it was going on but I think unfortunately lockdown will not be ending anytime soon. I have had lots of thoughts running around in my mind that you might have concerns with and what concerns I have regarding when lockdown ends for your dog. Socialisation, separation and concern about overtired/over aroused dogs are all covered below.
Firstly I have pulled out some key points from the British Veterinary Association their info graphics are below too. The current strain of Coronavirus is a result of Human-to-human transmission, there is absolutely no evidence that companion animals can spread the disease. Current evidence suggests Covid-19 has a wild animal source however this still remains under investigation. It is also thought it might be possible the virus could be carried on fur from humans that are infected/carrying the virus, for a short period of time in the same way it is on other surfaces, such as tables and doorknobs, this could apply to their harnesses as well. The main advice for animal owners is continue to practise good hand hygiene by washing your hands thoroughly (for 20 seconds with soap and water) after touching your pet and also not letting them interact with other dogs or people that do not live with you. If someone else is walking your dog for you for what ever reason, please carefully still follow social distancing rules and hygiene advice. Have a bag with all your dog equipment in, that you do not need to touch and the dog walker can take and bring back.
All veterinary practices are now required to limit face-to-face contact with clients. This means running an emergency care and emergency prescription service, some are still providing food and doing necessary vaccinations but this is branch dependent. So avoid putting your dog at unnecessary risk.
Food
If you run out of food dogs can eat human food they did evolve from our discarded food after all! However try and find alternative healthy complete dog foods, if you can rather than making your own, often getting the balance right of nutrients and what your specific dog needs is difficult. It’s always good to add fresh veg and fruit (in moderation) to your dogs dinner a minimum of 3 times a week anyway, this helps with gut health, a healthy gut helps with behaviour too! If you have to change food try and do it gradually if possible, I know this might be difficult don’t worry if it’s not feasible it just to avoid tummy upset. If your dog is on a special diet speak to your vet to see if they can suggest a good alternative. If you are struggling with costs http://www.trussellstrust.org are able to provide pet supplies for people who need it.
Difficult time for all
I know this is a stressful time for all of us but believe it or not it will be for our dogs too. Dogs pick up on our mood state so if the behaviour has changed it can be due to this, be mindful to try and take them out when you are feeling not so tense, as handling of the lead can then change the walk and can be unpleasant for your dog and in turn you, as they are likely to pull more or be hyper vigilant to things in the environment if the lead is tense. Some dogs will love you being home but others will be overwhelmed because everyone is there all day, they may not be getting the rest they need. There will be more people interacting with the dog, whether it’s kids constantly playing or teasing them or multiple adults managing unwanted behaviour, if this is not managed right you can have a stressed dog on your hands. Overtired, overexcited or frustrated dogs can lead to bites, statistic are usually higher during school holiday periods so this isolation period will be no different.
Routine
Dogs do appear to have an inbuilt time clock seeming to recognise the difference between week days and weekends (our actions and body language is more likely what influences this the most) however if we treat everyday as a weekend when lockdown is over some dogs are going to struggle. Each dog is different when it comes to routine sometimes a strict adherence to routine creates anxiety issues when all of a sudden they have a day where the routine gets thrown out the window, dogs which suffer from separation anxiety or isolation distress, are extremely aware of routine events that predict your leaving, which triggers their anxiety. What I am mainly suggesting is stick to a version of your normal routine for your working week, feeding your dog when you normally would and walking them. Obviously this will be different if you have a dog sitter but you can do activities in the same way without the socialisation aspect. Don’t walk your dogs more than you usually walk them unless you can sustain this after lock down otherwise when it’s over they will find it difficult when you go back to work, this is unfair and definitely do not make them walk more if they are refusing. Change for the future is inevitable things will not be exactly the same when restrictions are lifted, dogs do adapt but their are somethings to consider for getting through this period with ease for both parties.
Sleep
I have just posted a very detailed video on YouTube on this specific subject “Is your dog getting enough sleep” but some key points are below. With everyone home everyone may be interacting with your dog more than normal but be mindful sleep is vital to mood state dogs should be sleeping through the night and having regular undisturbed good quality naps in the day. Children and adults should be leaving the dog alone when they are resting or sleeping. Puppies need around 18-20 hours sleep and adult dogs need around 12-14 hours of sleep a day. Lack of rest and sleep can effect behaviour.
Alone Time
If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:
Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.
If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:
Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.
Those of you that have puppies that you are concerned about or a dog that struggles to be alone and you are worried about the impact, this is actually a good time to work on separation. The first thing we as behaviourists would advise is not to leave them alone at all and build on separation within the house and them being relaxed first, working in leaving them for seconds rather than minutes.
As well as the above points other places to start would be:
Within the house just going to simple places like the toilet or shower and closing the door. If they struggle and get distressed about this in anyway, have a treat pot in the toilet, pick up a handful, drop treats outside toilet door and shut the door every time you need to go.
When you need a bath or shower have a kong/chew ready and ask them to lie down on the bed whilst you go to the shower. If you have a dog/puppy that does get distressed leave the door open building on closing it but giving them an activity to do in another room close to the shower.
The important thing with separation training is you going in casually and come out casually. This is what you eventually need to do when leaving the house, this is not about ignoring them it’s about making it no big deal, so it’s normal. You do not want to be adding to how they feel, if you come out saying “I am so sorry I left you” verbally or in your body language, showing any anxiety yourselves, your dog will get distressed because you are.
Teaching a settle on a bed or blanket is also something that is useful to work on. You build on duration first and them truly relaxing and then build in doing short activities around them cleaning or when cooking building in distractions whilst they are still relaxed there. You would then work on distance but not aiming for the front door first, aim for them being at the kitchen door whilst you are at the cooker. Distance will be first before out of sight, before starting out of sight I always suggest to get a dog monitor or application if you have a smartphone and tablet, this enables you to watch for some of the subtle signals dogs give way before they start panting, becoming hyper vigilant, tense whining, barking or howling, you want to return to them before this whilst they are still chilled and relaxed. Do not force confinement or let them cry/whine/bark until they are quiet, this is outdated information it causes anxiety and high stress levels.
Periods of unavailability are important to, think about an activity you usually do and when you do it you dog often goes and rests away from you. Common times this happens (depending on the dog) are when you are on the phone, computer or reading a good book, you are usually completely unavailable and your dog often knows this because your body language indicates it. No eye contact, often looking away doing something else, so they often settle and rest, some almost relieved. It’s important to do activities where you are unavailable you cannot however fake this, you need to just go and do something else in the house. If you think about puppies we are on their case all the time watching them incase they wee or chew something and because of this some find it very difficult to settle in our company and this happens to adult dogs too, being unavailable sometimes is good to give your dog permission to just chill out.
If your dog is used to you going out if you can go out without them, I know there are limits around this but some alone time is important.
Play
To start with there is such a thing as too much play, contrary to popular belief play often does the opposite to tiring a puppy/dog out, it usually makes the dog or puppy over aroused, some frustrated because of how we play and we often play for far too long particularly with puppies, which can make them over tired, nippy and restless or worse. This lockdown is leaving some people bored, be careful not to over do it with your dog, there needs to be a balance between play, eating, sleeping, resting, mental and environmental stimulation and training. Some of the signs of play has gone on to long or the dog is over aroused are as detailed in the below images from the vet behaviour team, you want to end the game way before these occur:
Obviously yes it is important to make time to play with your dogs for short periods but not at times where you need to work or do stuff or you will have a dog that pesters you all the time. Do not leave kids playing unattended watch how the children are playing with the dog. It’s important if the dog is sitting just chewing on the toy or moving away with it that no one tries to grab the toy off them
Rather than constantly playing ball which can be over arousing, be careful of football too, play other games that provide them outlets for natural behaviours such as:
Searching for the ball; if your dog knows a stay ask them stay, throw the ball into long grass, count to 5 then release them to find it. Leave patches of grass to grow long for this game in your garden as well.
Hide a toy in the house or garden and then let your dog in/out to find it. For newbies make easy.
Tug ensure they win, ensure they are bringing it to you, when you are trying to instigate a game remember to use the toy as if it is prey, don’t waggle it in their face prey doesn’t do that, run it along the floor in zig zag movements keeping it low. Be careful not to make the game frustrating and ensure they are bringing it back to you, don’t grab it off them if they just try to take it away its not an invitation to take it.
Like us, dogs don’t enjoy being teased, nor do they understand the difference between our toys and theirs, so it’s best to keep any toys they shouldn’t play with safely out of their reach.
Outlets for natural behaviours
Dogs need outlets for their natural behaviours and what each dog likes is different. Digging, searching, hunting, foraging, sniffing, chewing, water play are all examples of what dogs need and there are lots of ways this can be done during this period. Searching for treats or scattering their dinner is just one way to tire them out as sniffing is stimulating to some dogs and often very tiring. Enrichment done right is actually what tires dogs out, this also will help prevent your puppy/dog becoming bored, restless and getting up to mischief. Here is a great blog for 100 days of enrichment whatever you choose it should be stimulating and not frustrating, each dog is different always start with easy stuff first particularly for dogs that’s are fearful or lacking confidence.
Walks
Each person in the household can go out with the dog once a day but this should only be for the dogs who are used to it or you can continue this in the future. If there are not multiple people in the house make the walk longer and focus on really good quality sniffing and what they enjoy, this is the tiring bit. Dogs that are used to being off lead, avoid situations where they interact with other dog or people as it could mean you break the social distancing rules because you have to go and get them. Instead keep them on lead but clip them on a different point on their lead or change to a slightly longer lead to imitate being off and work on just letting your dog take the lead, as if they are off lead let them take you on an adventure. If you control the snifari walk then you may start to build in frustration and could trigger behaviour problems in the future.
Socialisation
A lot of people are worrying about the lack of socialisation for their dog or puppy at this time but I myself am really not. I think for most dogs this is actually a blessing. Firstly if you have a dog that is anxious or stressed out normally on walks, do not start taking them out more than usual particularly as people are looking different at the moment this will add to their anxiety unless your road is much quieter now. Those of you with puppies social distancing is good and I recommend this in generally anyway for all puppies, for the unsure puppies distance is important to make them feel more confident this allows them to observe at a distance without being overwhelmed and choose whether to investigate, it also allows the over friendly puppies to read people and other dogs body language from a distance when they are saying I am not interested. Puppies that are not used people you can do exercises at home where you dress up getting them used to different out fits, hats, high visibility wear, glasses, fancy dress and of course masks most dogs may find these a little odd. Do take your puppies out at different times of the day.
For those dogs that are socialites and struggle keeping a distance this is the perfect time to really work on rewarding disengaging from dogs, don’t try and get their attention when they see them just wait until they do disengage and pay them a lot with multiple treats to their mouth and ground as you are moving away, no pulling them, even if this takes time, the trick is to stay at distances where they can disengage. Have a really good game after the walk with them, these are the dogs that may need play increased slightly.
Grooming
For those of you that have a dog that needs regular grooming, ensure you do this daily particularly if you usually rely on a groomer. It’s actually a great time to help them feel comfortable with it giving them short sessions and giving the choice to stop too. Pairing treats at every step even if it’s every brush and a tasty chew at the end, always give them other options when grooming put boxes, snuffle mats and kongs with food around during the session to allow them to have breaks. This is a great way to do regular check overs with your dogs.
My final note is like us dogs will get through this crisis, things will be different and there behaviour might change too but hopefully some of the above will help prevent this. Of cause if you are having specific behaviour problems and would like some advice I and many other trainers and behaviourist are still doing telephone, virtual-video sessions for training and behaviour and I do have a five week puppy course for those who have puppies and are concerned which I am now tailoring subjects to get puppies through this period.
“This is a quick one today but I think it is a really important one because we often leave our dogs in a state of not realising when things are over, which can for some dogs lead to frustration and more desperate attempts to get more treats, play or more fuss. Now I like to teach dogs what I call “The End Signal” which can be named what ever you like but what it means is that we have finished whatever we were doing. I think this is fair because its really hard for some dogs particularly, to understand that now there is no more treats or now we have stopped training and there are some dogs that are particularly more addicted to training, play or fuss even, so its important for our own benefit as well as them to let them know that it is over now and there is no point carrying on trying. Your word can be anything; most people say all gone when it comes to treats, they might say enough, finished, go find or go play, what ever it is it needs to be consistent and I tend say use one word that means that is it, its finished. “Finished” and a hand gesture is useful for your dog, when we would use this is say we were training with them and we have been giving loads of treats and we have been doing some sits, downs and stays and I like to teach a settle at the end so they relax after at the end of the session we say “Finished” with the gesture so they go off and they know that it is the end of training, there is no more treats and we are going to put them away and its clear to them its futile to continue trying. This should apply when you are playing as well particularly for dogs that are ball obsessed but for any dog so they are not just left hanging there like “What happened?” you know we often just carry on, “oh we have done that bit now” and we will carry on doing whatever, we just need to let them know, right that is the end, its all gone you can go and sniff and relax now, so we are not training any more, we are not playing any more. You can obviously use that for fuss and anything where you dog tries to continue to pursue something. Finished means right go and settle down, go sniff if you want to, go an play with your mates whatever but what it should mean from us that it does mean the end. There is no point saying finished and then go and give your dog another treat at the end of that because you then undo what you are trying to achieve, you want your dog to understand that finish means no more now, you can do something else and I am going to do something as well. I cant say enough how important I feel this is for dogs because as i said it just leaves them understanding it is the end and they are not left in limbo. OK I told you it was a short one today so please do the usual like a subscribe and catch me next week take care.”
My latest book is out, called ASK THE DOG. What made me write this book? Many things; my now 4 year old son, the adults that go straight up to dogs and stroke without asking because they are ‘dog lovers’, the people that have had dogs for years but are missing the subtle body language that dogs display, when they would prefer to be left alone, the number of children that try to come running up to us, when I am out with a client and their dog and of course the many cases I deal with where dogs have bitten.
Children below the age of 15 account for a high percentage of all dog bites, with the most vulnerable group being kids around 5 or younger, with this group at higher risk of being bitten in the face and are more likely to require hospitalisation than older children. Nearly 90% of the dogs are known to the children that are bitten. Children unfortunately do not recognise canine emotional expressions like growling for example, very well and sadly boys seemed to recognise fearfulness less in dogs.These are the many factors why I felt it was important for me to help educate children, parents and people in general, on how to recognise when dogs are saying they do not want to be touched.
Now let’s think about it, how much are we touched on a daily basis by known or unknown people? If we walked down the street stopping and physically touching people unsolicitedly, we would not only get some strange looks and make people feel uncomfortable but we might get someone shouting at us or worse. Now think about how much we physically touch and handle dogs. You could be having a BBQ for your friends and family, and as the family dog (big dogs in particular) moves from one room to the next, it may have been touched by at least 80% of the people in the room, just on the way through. Little dogs can often move away quicker but people often pick them up instead which makes them feel uncomfortable, vulnerable and threatened. Not many dogs like being picked up, an indication of this can be when they start licking your face repeatedly, ears back we like to call this the “Kiss to dismiss” which is often the dogs attempt to stop the interaction, see the following article on this https://www.familypaws.com/kiss-to-dismiss-not-all-licks-are-the-same/ by Family Paws Parent Education, they have some excellent information on keeping children safe on their website too. Yes there are some dogs that are on top of you licking you repeatedly because they do like being close but others only do this when you grab or hug/restrain them as this is not normal in the dog world, you don’t see dogs hugging and stroking each other.
Now it’s not just children that this book is aimed at, its for adults too, we are human and designed to read human behaviour, so we often miss when a dog doesn’t want to be engaged with. It’s a credit to many dogs that they don’t bite, many use the subtle signals like lip licking, turning a way and moving away to indicate that they do not want to be approached, and it’s only when these signals have been missed over and over that they have to use bigger displays like barking, growling, snapping or biting to get their message across more effectively. These behaviours are no different from us shouting, lunging or hitting at someone that made us feel uncomfortable too. The common thing I am told is my dog is so good, he tolerates anything we do to him and my response is but is that fair?
ASK THE DOG is about giving dogs the choice to interact or not, giving them the choice to say “No”, to keep people safe and to be mindful that dogs do not always want to be petted. It encourages children to make sure any dogs they encounter are happy to be stroked, and how to recognise signs that a dog may not want to be approached. The message is delivered in the form of a poem. With colourful, eye-catching illustrations to draw in younger readers and help to underline the points made in the text.
Available in paper back and Kindle Ebook, get your copy today on the following link https://amzn.to/2Kg6sRY and help me spread the word so more people are kept safe.
In my job I go into a number of peoples homes where dogs are not getting enough sleep or even rest, they maybe getting sleep in the night but in the day they get none or worse they are restless at night too. Over tiredness in dogs and puppies can cause all sorts of unwanted behaviour nipping and biting in puppies, in adults; biting when disturbed from sleep, some labelled “Grumpy” around people and other dogs and more.
Adult dogs need on average 12 -14 hours of sleep if they are in sync with your own sleep patterns say 8 hours a night, they need to get the remaining hours through the day. Older dogs generally sleep more as they tire out more easily and I believe need rest in order to function properly. Puppies, like babies, spend a lot of time expelling energy while playing and exploring their new surroundings, it can be stressful learning human rules and learning about the world, which means they might need as much as 18 to 20 hours of sleep to recover.
Just like us sleep is vital for dogs, it gives the dogs body time to heal, a dog deprived of sleep will have a weakened immune system therefore more prone to sickness and putting them at risk of serious conditions. Lack of sleep also has a huge effect on mood state. As humans suffer from fatigue and increased risk of obesity, due to lack of sleep, we would be fooled to think this is not a risk for dogs too.
There are many reasons why dogs are lacking sleep;
Inadequate or uncomfortable bed area
A plastic dog bed or hard floor is not comfortable for a dog and not conducive to having a good nights sleep or adequate sleep or rest in the day. In the wild dogs dig the earth to make it softer or choose the most comfortable resting spot they can find. Yes dogs do choose the floor as-well particularly if they are hot but some move around quite a bit during the night which you would notice if they were on your bed, which mean some struggle in crates for this reason too. If you have wooden, tiled or laminate flooring a moving bed is unsettling to and a nervous dogs won’t want to lay on it. Dogs are social animals and generally like to rest near us, a completely relaxed dependant dog would happily sleep away, a lot of people frequent the kitchen and tell me their dogs pester the visitors constantly, I look round the kitchen and see there is no where for the dog to just chill and calm down. I often ask people to get me a blanket or towel I lay it down near us and carry on talking to the owner leaving the dog be and the dog looks almost grateful and lies straight down.
Underfloor Heating
This is another problem for some dogs particularly if you have this throughout the house, dog’s over heat quickly so having a place they can go where it is not heated is important. I get complaints about dogs digging up the garden, if your dog digs a hole and then lies in it, the main reason will be because either they have no comfortable place in the house or because they are digging to get to the cool earth underneath, if you don’t like it provide them an equivalent like a cool bed in the shade.
Multiple options
If you are not allowing your dog on the bed or furniture (yes you can by the way, this does not make them dominant), they need multiple options, each dog is different and have different bed preferences, cave, flat, thick, bean bag, beds with lips for dogs like short nose breeds, that need to lift their head to help them breathe, and some like some dogs like being covered up. Before you say it, no they are not “just a dog” and should not “just be grateful they get anything!” Some people who don’t let their dogs on the furniture have a daily battle with their dogs getting up there, or worse the dogs become aggressive. Think about it, we often appear or become threatening first, Dave the dog is lying there minding his own business, nice and comfortable on the sofa or bed, having a lovely rest and then we suddenly come in telling them to get off, or sadly drag them off by their collar. Over time they start to defend themselves and no they don’t know they shouldn’t be on the furniture, they can just read in your body language that you are angry and this can be as simple as a look, so they either appease you with slinky body language as they don’t want conflict or they use aggression to defend themselves. I know what I am like when I am disturbed from sleep, ask my poor husband!
Location, Location, Location
Your dog should have at least one bed where there is no foot traffic, away from where your children play loads and the hustle and bustle of a busy household, never located near a cupboard that is frequently used etc.
Many locations where dogs sleep, like the kitchen for example have no window blinds/curtains these days, which means dogs get disturbed by all the critters that wake up at night, that we are not even aware off. This can make them more anxious or on high alert and no blinds mean it can make them rise when the sun does. Often people tell me their dog doesn’t use the bed that they bought them at all, this is either because the bed is not the right one for the dog, they might not find it comfortable or are not used to the texture, or it is located where the dog is not comfortable, is there a draught, is it to close to the radiator, is it facing the front window where it’s bombarded with perceived threats e.g. people and/or dogs walking by that make them uncomfortable? If they are crated, again there should be a bed or at least a crate mat like the one here. There should be enough room so that your dog can stand up fully, and lie down with their legs stretched fully without touching the crate walls.
Crates ideally should not be forever. Of course some dogs love them and would choose the crate or den area over everything else, that is absolutely fine just be sure they are getting adequate sleep in there.
Let sleeping dogs lie
Never disturb your dog when resting or sleeping, yes if they are on your lap it’s fine to stroke them, although once they are a sleep try not to. If they have decided to sleep away from you on their bed or on the other end of the couch, leave them alone and ensure children do too! Don’t decide I want to play with them and wake them up. I know they look adorable, but don’t be tempted to give them a stroke, it’s annoying. We touch dogs far more than they would touch each other, if we did it to people as frequently it would be classed as inappropriate and irritating, give them a break. Most people hate being touched in their sleep, it’s startling and unsettling, why are we shocked when a dog snaps or is grumpy when they are woken constantly, if it doesn’t happen frequently then they are less likely to react this way, but lack of sleep in general can trigger snapping and it’s quite common in fearful/anxious dogs that need help in other areas of their life.
The Bed Chewer
For a dog that chews beds, try multiple old towels or duvets, rather than spending a fortune on beds, under supervision of course, particularly if they swallow what they chew. Reintroduce the bed differently focusing on calm activities, encouraging them to lie down in a relaxed position, and giving them Kongs filled with something they have to lick, as opposed to dropping it, or chews that take them a while. Ensure to reintroduce the bed slowly, managing access to it at first. Be sure it’s not on a slippery surface because ones that move, can attract chewing particularly in puppies, as it becomes a fun toy just like puppy pads.
Visiting other locations
When visiting restaurants, cafes, friends homes etc always take a comfortable familiar mat too, this helps dogs feel more relaxed having a recognised space to go to, this is especially important if you are going to a house where another dog resides. The floor inside and outside a cafe/restaurant, is hard and freezing on a cold day and on a hot day they must have the option to move into the shade as dogs over heat quickly. Ensure they are not trapped with no escape route in these places and ask people to not touch them, the mat should be there safe place, only letting people stroke your dog, if your dog is indicating they want the attention. As mentioned I personally really like these they are designed for dog crates however they are handy to take with you, they have an anti slip surface and double up as a snuffle mat too, win win. Others use bath mats, both can be rolled up. I have also seen some very thoughtful owners put an item of their clothing down, if they have nothing else.
Collars
A final point to consider is how comfortable is your dog’s collar. If you can, pop it round your neck, arm or leg and lie down on it, is it comfortable does it dig in. Take collars off at night to give them a break, popping it back on in the morning before breakfast, it’s always advisable to take collars off when puppies are in crates anyway, incase they get their tag trapped which can cause choking and particularly when two dogs are left alone together as there has been many cases, where the dog has caught its jaw in the other dog’s collar, there are always risks they can get hung on things.
As you can see there are many things as behaviourists, we have to consider when looking at a dogs behaviour. It’s important to be mindful and try and think from your dog’s point of view.
As a dog trainer and behaviour advisor that works on a one to one basis with my clients, I spend a lot of time in areas where people regularly socialise their dogs, whether that’s is a local park that consists of a rectangular patch of grass with a park in like Warrender, the woods, busy places like Ruislip Lido or Rickmansworth Aquadrome, country parks like Black Park, Langley Park, Denham Country Park, Large green spaces like Horsenden Hill or just a local walk round the block. One thing that is for sure is there is a huge dog owning community. As a behaviour advisor I know you have to look at every dog as an individual, every dog I come across or work with have completely different back grounds and upbringings which can also vary between dog to dog within the same household. One type of dog that has inspired me to write this blog is the number of Street Dogs I am now seeing as clients, most of the ones I have seen so far have lived on the streets so it’s vital that they can communicate effectively with other dogs, they mostly avoid conflict as much as possible as they need to stay uninjured and healthy to survive. These dogs come over here I find often have excellent body language but do find our dogs difficult to interact with initially, which can make the Street dog appear unsociable.
Dogs socialisation varies hugely, you can take 5 dogs that have all been to the same socialisation classes but all 5 could have a had a different experience; depending on their own emotional state generally and during the class, how the other dogs were, how their guardians handled them in the class, the guardians emotional state at the time, if anything spooked them in the class, stress that they had been through a few days before the class and so much more.
One piece of bad advice that goes around is, that you should let dogs get on with it “they will sort it out themselves”. This is a massive mistake and hugely unfair especially on puppies that are just finding out about the world of dogs and the different kinds of dog breeds there are, if they go down the park and get in trouble by every dog, do you think that they will continue to want to socialise with dogs. Using an older dog as a stooge dog, putting them in a position which makes them have to tell other dogs to back off is unfair too. Older dogs are sometimes in pain, do not have as much energy to play or interact anymore, which means they are far less tolerant understandably and what about the dog that has been attacked previously should they just be left get on with it with a dog that is intimidating them or over aroused and won’t take no for an answer. I am finding there are lots of dogs out there that play inappropriately and some owners, dog walkers and dog sitters do not recognise what is appropriate and what is not.
Now I can hear some people say they are dogs they will work it out, they will soon learn when another dog has had enough and this may have worked for your one particular dog. Unfortunately this is not always the case, I deal with many dogs thats companions have taken exactly that approach, with regards to their interaction with other dogs. You have the ones in the park that are allowed to run up (or can’t be stopped) to any dog whether the dog is on or off lead, these dogs are usually over aroused and often do not read other dogs body language well or are not sure how to interact so end up over the top. Now firstly if this dog has run up to an owner that has a dog that is not comfortable with other dogs not necessarily one that may fight (which generally stems from fear) but I mean the ones that throw them selves on their back and if that fails tries to get away as quickly as possible. This can be pretty traumatic for both dog and owner, leaving them in a state of stress for a few days or more. The dogs that bark and try to instigate play with every dog not leaving them alone, these dogs usually have played like this or have been allowed to play inappropriately with other dogs that play in the same way, allowing them to practice and be proficient in play that is not suitable with most dogs. On top of this we have breeds that are bred that can be over social, crosses that have low frustration tolerance and more.
What’s not fair is these dogs often can be turned on regularly by other dogs and eventually can understandably get very offended when another dog growls, barks or bite to indicate they don’t want to play. I am then often called in to see the inappropriate player type dogs, as they have now started to understandably react back over time; as they are frustrated that the other dog didn’t play, appearing confused why they keep getting into trouble, they can often appear unpredictable and end up fighting during play due to high stress levels.
Now this is no fault of the dog guardians out there, it is likely that no one has told you what is appropriate or inappropriate, our gut instincts usually do but we often ignore this because of pressure other dog guardians put on us, they might say they are ok leave them be etc.. especially if you are a new owner as you will feel other dog owners know more than you. I will let you into a secret shh “just because someone has had dogs for thirty years, does not mean they have been getting it right or that they are an expert in dog body language” the average dog owners do not know the subtle signals dogs give way before they growl bark and bite.
Let’s have a look at Play and what to look out for:
Questionable Play
Best to call your dog to you positively before things go too far. If you are not careful this could lead to fall out.
If one dog is always being picked on and there is more than one other dog involved, this should be stopped.
Tugging and dragging the other by the collar, harness or body parts
If the chasing is mis-matched and one dog is trying to hide or get away, this type of play needs to be interrupted, always interrupt positively.
Inappropriate Play
Interrupt positively and move away
Biting of the neck or other parts of the body.
Barking at the other dog, especially in their faces.
Bullying the other dog to play
Humping, this is done by both sexes, it does not mean sex, it is often a sign of anxiety
Air snaps. This is I don’t want to continue
Standing with his head over the other dogs shoulders.
Stalking
Body slamming. NO WAY. Not appropriate.
Pinning or mouth round neck
Dogs forming a gang
Unsupervised play
Sometimes it’s difficult to interrupt as both dogs will be concentrating on where the play may lead so try and wait for natural breaks in the play. The moment you get their attention call them over and then move on with your walk.
If another dog has run over to yours and yours clearly does not want to play i.e. looking away, turning away, walking away sniffing as if they are doing something else try and increase the distance between you and the other dogs owner, by moving in the direction you want to go this will help the dog (and the other owner) get a clear message both you and your dog do not want to engage and don’t be afraid to say “please can you get your dog”.
Play bows are also not always a sign to indicate they want to continue playing, sometimes it seems to be used to defuse a situation that might appear to be getting out of hand.
Appropriate Play
This is reciprocated and there is a give and take aspect. The dogs are having fun. Dogs have relaxed body language and may appear a bit “goofy”. Playing chase is a sharing opportunity, where they may take it in turns. Do a consent test if you are not sure: hold the chaser and see if the other dog still wants to engage in play.
We often leave our dogs far to long playing, which means they become hyper aroused and find it difficult to calm down, if anyone knows what an overtired toddler is like it’s exactly the same. Some dogs even though you can see they are exhausted will not let up. These are usually the hyperaroused dogs or the ones with addictive personalities!
The problem is society put high unrealistic expectations on dogs, that they should get on with every dog they meet. This means we put a lot of pressure on dogs to socialise without really understanding what is appropriate and what is not. We don’t get on with everyone, there are people that can frustrate us or anger us and this is what happens with dogs. The first thing everyone does is tries to expose their puppy as much as possible to as many dogs as possible including going to puppy parties, having friends over with dogs, meet ups, dog walkers and more often this is too much. Some dogs just are not interested in playing with other dogs especially strangers, we don’t chat or play with all the strangers we meet, don’t force dogs to be social if they are not interested if however they are showing that they are uncomfortable by growling, barking or biting seek professional help. All interactions should be about choice and going at your puppies or dogs pace without pressurising them.
What I aim for and I explain to the clients I work with are the nice “hi” sniff butts “bye” interactions where the dogs have a short relaxed interaction like we do, when we politely say “hello” to our neighbours when we pass them by or where we exchange small pleasantries and move on. Standing in the middle of park chatting to other owners, or dog walkers that stand stationary whilst the dogs rough house for long time, is what I avoid, this often causes over arousal if you stand back and look at the group of dogs at least one of them often actually want to move on with their walk not stand stationary, after all there is so much more to explore. Standing in a group is unfair on the dogs that don’t want to be played with or have had enough. This kind of stress can send the dogs back home in a adrenaline filled hyper-aroused state, which means they sometimes find it difficult to relax. Sniffing and interacting with the environment is far more important for dogs for their emotional well being and tires them.
The owners that are naturals have it right you know the ones they just walk their dogs without thinking about it, they will say a brief “Hi” whilst continuing to walk their dog, their dogs often have great body language and interact with other dogs briefly but politely and may have a short brief play, which is much more like the interaction of how dogs are that live on the street and why there often is not as much conflict.
Let’s all aim for short polite relaxed interactions!
Ever wonder why some people just struggle to stop there dog pulling, even though they have been to many training classes. Lack of time of course is one reason, if a dog has not been taught from a puppy to walk on a loose lead, it take a lot more time, effort and dedication to correct this behaviour and lots and lots of patience!
However there are a number of reasons why dogs pull on the lead:
Opposition reflex
Pulling against a dog that is pulling away from you is counter productive, if you pull them back they will pull forward it is as simple as that. This is why techniques like jerking on the lead or simply pulling them back, makes them pull away from you and sometimes even pull more.
We dictate the whole walk
If we dictate their every move on the lead, insisting on being at heel, correcting the position manually or constantly stopping them sniffing, they again will fight against you to get to the sniff that they want and in fact need, dogs get a lot of information from sniffing and stopping them can cause frustration and even anxiety. There needs to be a compromise between us and our dogs without them having to drag us.
Wants to get home
If your dogs is pulling on the way home, it is could be that either your walk is too long or see point 8 your dog is not enjoying the walk.
To get to something
Is your dog one that walks nicely until they see a cat, squirrel, person or another dog. 9/10 times this is because of how we handle the lead, over time you can trigger the behaviour because by pulling them back, you make the target much more interesting then it really is. Like toddlers you take something away from them they want it even more. We pull the dog away sometimes before they have even seen the stimuli.
Practiced behaviour
If dogs pull and we follow they learn to get where they want to go, this is standard advice because yes of course the behaviour get rehearsed, however I always look at what they are pulling for. Taking your dog out when you are rushed, means you are more likely to encourage pulling as the dogs feel pressured into just walking and can potentially put them in a sense of fight or flight. Pulling to the park gets them to the park is another saying. Often this is also because the park has become more rewarding than the journey to the park or that it’s more relaxing for them there away from busy loud traffic for example.
Too short a lead
If you walk your dog on a short lead, a lead you wrap round your hand or even standard length leads, do not allow the dog enough freedom to explore as much as they need to, so some dogs learn to pull quickly and shoot across you just to get that sniff they are longing for.
Different Pace
Your dog just the same as other people, walks at a different pace than you. Your dog has four legs you have two, your dog has to learn to match your pace and that’s difficult, this is why during lead walking training, they often drift forward to their natural pace. You try keeping up with someone that walks faster or even slower than you, you will not sustain that pace for long!
Wrong equipment
Ill fitted or poorly designed dog walking equipment like harnesses, can cause discomfort due to rubbing or preventing relaxed strides, it is like a pair of uncomfortable shoes this can trigger dogs to pull to relieve the pain. Getting the right harnesses is key see my blog poorly fitted harness blog
and another two often overlooked reasons…
Anxiety
Commonly these dogs pull on the way home, pull past busy places, pull anxiously when other dogs/people/or traffic is approaching. Dogs that are scared of noises are often ones that pull, like they want to get the walk over as soon as possible. Fear on walks is something that should be addressed professionally, fear and stress can have long term health implications and effect behaviour, seek help from a professional behaviour advisor.
Health
Dogs that have an injury, pain or discomfort can often find trotting or walking fast relieves the pressure. Dogs do not show injury or pain easy, pain has to be at about a 6 to see something like limping and about 10 for them to Yelp. Often the first sign of pain is behaviour change.
You see, pulling on the lead is not just about training, the above points are just some of the many factors that you need to consider when working on lead walking.
This is why lead walking techniques like, jerking, luring them back into position and changing direction, does not work for a lot of dogs. Not all dogs and I would actually go as far as to say most dogs are not happy walking to heel either and you know what it’s not necessary for a dog to walk to heel, or and asking them to be on the same side all the time can cause imbalances in the body as they are always look at you one side and not the other causing tension in the neck back and more and guess what they can be in front of you as well, it does not mean the dog is being dominant. Your walk should be a compromise between you and your dog, learn how to help him cope when anxious and work on a good loose lead walking technique that allows your dog to sniff and explore what they want but with out them pulling/dragging you down the street to do it.
As some of you may know, I have recently published a children’s book called “What Dogs Like“, a story in rhyme with an important safety message on bite prevention. Nearly 80% of dog bites are from the family or a friends dog. Written as a read-along-rhyme with informative illustrations, “What dogs Like” helps educate young people as well as their parents, on how to behave around their canine friends.
What inspired me to write this particular book was a few things; my little boy, the news with headlines like “family dog attacked out of the blue” and the many uncomfortable pictures/videos shared on social media on a daily basis, with children sometimes laying on, picking up or maybe even hugging their dog, with the dog using as many signals as possible to indicate it is not comfortable.
Firstly it is very rare for dogs to just bite out of the blue, unless there is an underlying medical condition, dogs give many subtle signals way before they growl, bark or bite. It’s a credit to the majority of dogs that most tolerate us as adults let alone younger children who are often unpredictable and are learning and investigating the world themselves, which often includes poking and prodding the family dog. I work with many dogs that have bitten or are close to that stage and their owners are often shocked that it has happened, commenting that they felt like it came out of the blue, but then when we go back through the dogs history, there has been a number of times the dog had been indicating its fearful, frustrated or just uncomfortable. Even if your dog appears to be ok, tolerates the children and hasn’t ever reacted negatively, does not mean they are comfortable.
It’s time for parents to help educate children and themselves and be an expert on what their dog and others are trying to tell us. Recognising the many subtle signals dogs use, way before they have to even growl. Lets all work together at reducing bite statistics to an all time low in children (and adults)!
Signs to look for:
Dog avoids children (not always as obvious with your own) often taking its self into another room when others visit
Pulling head back, turning away or backing off, ears back
Showing the whites of their eyes cautiously glaring, looking unsure
Yawning when not tired
Constantly panting
Tongue flick when no food is present
Hard eyes like they are concentrating or just staring
Tense Stiff Body and Tail, with mouth often closed
Common times these behaviours are displayed:
When being picked up
When approached especially when resting, eating or playing with a toy
When patted on the head
When being cuddled and restrained
When being dressed up
When being handled
When punishing them
When being forced to do something they don’t want to do
Always ensure your dog has somewhere they can retreat to, where they will not be disturbed.
Pair the arrival of children with something that the dog doesn’t normally get, a tasty toy or chew but again ensure they have this where they will not be disturbed.
Help your dog out, if they are giving any of the above signals, redirect the child away from the dog, so the dog does not have to resort to growling, barking or biting to make the child go away.
Teach children the rules:
When eating, resting and sleeping leave the dog alone.
Dog must stay on the ground (No picking the dog up!).
Adults manage unwanted behaviour in the dog, not children (No telling the dog off).
No touching the dogs collar, no leading them around by it or pushing the dog around.
Stroking must be on the dogs terms; ask the child to call the dog over, if the dog comes it probably is happy to be stroked but if it doesn’t come forward, leave the dog alone.
When stroking the dog pause and see if the dog wants to move away, if they don’t carry on stroking.
Stroking must be from collar to tail on the side or a scratch on the chest.
If the children want to engage with the dog, let them hide a few treats or the dogs toy (if he is comfortable with that), around the house and get the dog to “find it”, always under adult supervision.
The Family Dog does some great videos to help children on appropriate behaviour around dogs see stopthe77.com
Is it round the block or the same park once a day?
Do you always take the same route?
Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?
The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.
Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.
When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.
Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker
Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.
Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.
A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!
Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.
You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.
Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!
There are many behaviour problems that can be resolved in our dogs by just providing them with mental and environmental stimulation. One way of doing this is by Interactive feeding. For many years we have fed our dogs out of food bowls, as this is the way we eat ourselves off a nice clean plate. Many dogs don’t enjoy eating this way, some may take the food from the bowl and then eat it off the floor, others may regularly go off there food, especially the ones that have one large meal once a day (not good for many reasons) or ones that have their food left down all day, imagine me leaving your roast dinner on a plate all day and expect you to eat it, you might pick at it because you are hungry, but would you really enjoy it! Now if you look back in history at how dogs evolved, you will find that they are natural foragers, eating small quantities up to 12 times a day or more and of course hunting is a strong instinct that we have bred into them too although most dogs no longer consume prey. Although a large number of dogs are now bred to be family pets, they still have these instincts hard wired into them. You see this when they raid the bin, when they watch the floor like a hawk when you are preparing food, just incase you drop a bit, when they pick up everything that looks like food on their walks. Dogs have natural instincts and needs to but we are so busy making them conform to our lifestyle dictating how, when and where they do things, they can often get frustrated as they have no job to do. When dogs are lacking mental stimulation they often go what we like to term as “Self Employed”. Your dog may hunt socks, the remote control, chase shadows or reflections, pace the house looking for something to do, chew, start barking at things and more. Now I don’t recommend exactly encouraging them to use the hunting skills they were bred for i.e. hunting birds, local vermin or the neighbours cat but we can provide them an equivalent.
It’s time to change the way we feed our dogs!
At the very minimum dogs should be fed their daily recommended allowance twice a day, this helps sustain their energy levels, but splitting it down to 3, 4 or more meals is even better. After all how often do we eat if we include snacks.
Use every meal time, everyday for the rest of there lives, as an opportunity to mentally stimulate your dog, there are many ideas out there nowadays and the good thing about this type of stimulation, is you can do it no matter how old your dog is. Here are a few suggestions:
Please note:It’s important that your dog enjoys it, feed differently at different meal times to keep it interesting and make sure it is not so hard that it’s almost impossible to get the food out
The simplest way to start off with (if your dog is on a dry complete food, wet food could get messy!) is by scatter feeding, which literally means throwing the food all over the kitchen floor, out in the garden or even on your walk, just make sure other dogs are not around, alternatively use a snuffle mat you can make your own too see here.
Hide some portions of the meal around the house or in the garden in small piles, at first let your dog see where you put it and say “find it” once your dog understands what you are doing make the game more challenging by hiding it whilst they are out of sight.
There are obviously the classics like the Kong or the cheaper version Busy Buddy Squirrel Dude, which are so versatile you can put the dry food loose in them to start off with making it easy, then if you have multiple ones you can then hide them in different places around the house. You can soak their dry food, stuff them with it and then freeze them, making a popcicle for hot days or just use feed wet complete food stuffed in it. These are good for when visitors arrive too.
There are plenty of other Interactive feeding toys on the market now, like the Kong Wobbler or the Buster Activity Mat, just ensure they are not too over exciting or frustrating. see the following link for many more ideas www.johinds.com/dogentertainment
Of course the cheaper alternative is to make your own. If your dog likes to chew and consume then some of these ideas are not for them, always supervise your dog and remove the item when empty, and completely if you have any concerns of them choking on or swallowing bits. Again there are some innovative homemade ideas out there:
Fill up Plastic bottles (with lid and ring round neck removed) with there dry food
Old slightly split tennis balls can be filled and dotted round the house or garden to hunt and find
For your diggers out there; take 1 cardboard box and hide the meal between layers of fleece, towels, plastic milk cartons, toys etc
Wrap the food in an old blanket or towel
Take one juice carton, remove any plastic, rinse, dry and fill
Buy a cheap kids ball pit, scatter the food in with the balls
With some of the interactive toys you might need to help them to start off with, showing them how it comes out. You must then leave them to try and work it out themselves, this is how it becomes stimulating for them. Always make sure the toys are not left down after they have finished with them, to keep them novel and interested the next time. Ensure your dog has opportunities to rest, there should be a balance between mental stimulation which includes sniffy walks as well as ample opportunities to rest and sleep.
Be inventive and share your ideas in the comments below.
– I love this lead by Mekuti, I have used it for many years and have not gone for another. The softex material it is made out of, means it’s kind on hands even with the strongest of pullers. This lead comes in two thicknesses and 3 lengths 2m, 2.5m (my general lead) and 3m. This can be used on a two point harness or just as a longer lead as you can turn one end into a handle my favourite way of using it. The same as other double ended leads you can change the length of the lead too by clipping to different points on the lead.
Be mindful to always introduce them at home first, a new object forced towards them can be frightening and prevent them from drinking.
Dog Trainer & Behaviourist | Ruislip | Jo Hinds Dog Training 
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