Tag: Post

Grey and brown long haired chihuahua being carried near a road close up
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up and Carried?

Joanne Hinds

Many years ago, I started writing a book called Little Dog Syndrome. I sent it to a publisher who, to my surprise, was interested but life got in the way. I’ve recently revisited it, with the intention of continuing to work on it after finishing my Rethinking Lead Walking course for professionals. (Note to self: I have a tendency to start lots of projects and not finish them… something I’m consciously working on this year.)

I’m actually really glad I left this until now, because my thoughts and opinions have changed. The title was never my philosophy; it was more of a hook, reflecting how small dogs are so often described. Even back then, I was writing from a mindful place, considering how differently smaller dogs are raised, handled, and managed.

One of the areas I wrote about was picking dogs up and carrying them and this is where my thinking has evolved the most.

Picking Up Small Dogs: Why I Used to Avoid It

For a long time, I believed picking up and carrying small dogs should be avoided wherever possible, other than for essential husbandry, grooming, veterinary visits through cooperative care, or safety for example, if a dog hasn’t been trained around doors and you can’t shut them into another room.

I felt that frequent carrying often reduced confidence rather than building it.

In some situations, I still think that can be true particularly when dogs are picked up suddenly, randomly, without warning, or without any choice.

Dogs don’t lift one another. Being removed from the ground can feel startling, disorientating or frightening, especially if it happens repeatedly and unpredictably. Over time, that can create handling sensitivities, anxiety, or defensive behaviour.

How Meeting Mila the Chihuahua Changed My Perspective

My thinking began to shift initially with some uncertainty, and then changed much more after meeting my good friend’s Chihuahua, Mila, when she was just a puppy.

In 30 years, I had never worked with a Chihuahua puppy. I rarely saw them in puppy classes they’re not generally brought and I mostly met them later as behaviour cases involving handling issues, barking, growling, snapping and biting.

Meeting Mila was a real eye-opener.

There is a lot of discussion around picking dogs up when they are scared. I see many caregivers doing this and I also see many small dogs actively asking to be picked up or carried. For some individuals, being lifted genuinely functions as a place of safety. Sometimes the world is a pretty overwhelming place when you’re looking at it from ground level.

Why busy environments are different for tiny dogs

Mila is now an adult, fully grown, and still incredibly tiny. Her legs are as thin as my little finger. She walks alongside her caregiver, but in busy environments she can easily be missed, accidentally stepped on, or rolled over by wheels prams, scooters, bikes, trolleys.

Don’t get me wrong she is swift, nimble and can move when she needs too, she lives with three children but there is still a much higher level of physical risk for dogs her size moving through busy human spaces.

She is confident and pretty resilient, though still alert and cautious, particularly of feet and sometimes hands. I can completely understand why, in busy environments, picking her up or carrying her can be necessary and protective. I do it myself. If a large, exuberant dog barrelled into Mila, she could be significantly hurt.

That context matters.

That said, I do think there are times when we pick small dogs up too quickly before anything has actually happened potentially creating worry before the dog is truly concerned.

At the same time, I can absolutely see why caregivers do it… because they care.

This balance between protecting and over-protecting is one of the hardest things to get right.

A theme echoed by many professionals in discussion was that carrying should not quietly become the default coping strategy. The long-term aim for most dogs is still to feel safe in their own bodies on the ground, with their caregiver as a secure base they can move towards not something they are always lifted away from.

Facial bites, hugging and why choice is critical

One common issue I see is dogs being picked up randomly to be hugged and kissed often one of the main causes of facial bites.

This can start to make dogs feel uncomfortable, this is not normal dog behaviour and actually can be mistaken for a challenge when you think of how dogs lean over one another’s necks sometimes before a fight.

Allowing people to approach and stroke a dog when they are in your arms is, in my view, a no-no. The dog has no choice, signals are often misread, and that lack of agency is frequently why dogs bite: they’re unable to move away, it’s intimidating, and hands can be really annoying.

Small dogs are also more likely to be scooped up by strangers adults and children alike often without warning. Repeated experiences like this understandably teach dogs that approaching humans are unpredictable and threatening, and they may escalate their behaviour to protect themselves.

Teaching predictable, consent-based lifting to dogs

I strongly believe there should be clear cues around picking up and carrying, so the dog has predictability and awareness that it may happen if absolutely needed ideally offered as a question:

“Do you want to be picked up?”

With a cue such as “Up” taught beforehand.

I also like encouraging dogs to move onto a lap or low surface first, where possible, before lifting. This gives them more choice and control.

When lifting, it’s important to support both the chest and hindquarters and keep them close to your body, so they feel secure rather than dangling or unstable.

Some caregivers teach two cues one optional (“do you want up?”) and one non-negotiable for safety (“I have to lift you now”) both predictable, calm and consistent. This clarity can be hugely reassuring, especially for dogs with pain histories or handling sensitivities.

Checking in while carrying and offering dogs the chance to walk again when they’re ready is part of that same consent-led picture.

Puppies, body language, and learning to enjoy handling

Many puppies are lifted frequently by adults, which can unintentionally signal to children that this is always appropriate too. For some puppies, being picked up or handled before they feel comfortable can quickly become overwhelming. When a puppy hasn’t yet learned that human touch is safe or enjoyable, frustration can build and may show up as mouthing or nipping as a way to communicate discomfort.

Dogs don’t naturally pick each other up or stroke one another, so close physical handling is something they need to learn to feel relaxed about. While there are times when lifting a puppy is necessary, it’s important that these experiences are introduced gradually and thoughtfully. I encourage families to slow things down, observe the puppy’s body language first, and let the puppy guide the interaction wherever possible.

Learning to recognise a clear “yes please” such as approaching, soft muscles, and relaxed movement versus a “no thank you” like leaning away, freezing, or turning the head should always come before touching or lifting. Adding simple cues like “up” early on also helps puppies understand what’s coming next, giving them a sense of predictability and control.

Handled in this way, puppies can build positive associations with being touched, making everyday care safer and more comfortable for everyone involved.

Supporting sensitive small dogs without flooding them

I work with many clients who have sensitive small dogs, many of whom did not want to go for walks, with multiple factors influencing this.

In some cases particularly with rescue dogs with little known history, or very sensitive vaccinated puppies or adolescents I may recommend reintroducing them to the world from their arms, much like we would with an unvaccinated puppy. This is only if the dog finds being carried comforting and it’s been taught.

Another option, of course, is a carrier for smaller dogs introduced as a safe place in a positive way.

Being held or carried can allow dogs to observe from a sensible distance, taking information in through their nose and other senses without being flooded. This gives them space to process what they are seeing, hearing and smelling, rather than being pushed straight into situations they’re not ready to cope with on the ground.

Evolution didn’t create these tiny dogs we did, through breeding so I think it’s our job to support them in ways that work best for them.

We can then progress crouching down when the dog shows some interest in exploring a little, with the care giver staying static so the dog can choose to come back to their human for safety, using the caregiver’s legs as protection. Still setting up for success.

Other Dogs, Jumping Up and Environmental Awareness

I’m also very mindful of where lifting happens.

From another dog’s perspective, seeing a dog in someone’s arms is unusual and can create curiosity, confusion, frustration and sometimes jumping up as they investigate.

That risk is part of the equation too.

As confidence builds, I often look to transfer that sense of safety to crouching as previously mentioned, protective positioning, and sometimes a trained middle position between the caregiver’s feet, depending on the dog ensuring however they do not feel trapped.

It’s vital that the care giver becomes the dogs safe place, which is particularly important off-lead, so a worried dogs learn to run towards their caregiver rather than hiding or bolting for home.

Long dog walks, fatigue and knowing when enough is enough

Mila goes many places with her caregiver. Her tiny legs, our long stride and her slower pace can make walking exhausting, I see many small dogs literally having to jog everywhere because of their care givers pace.

While I’m a strong advocate that walks should be about the dog or at least cooperative at both ends of the lead she also has a carrier she loves and uses as a safe place when walks are long, rushed or particularly busy.

Some small dogs are incredibly fit and cover huge distances. Others fatigue far sooner than people realise, and pain doesn’t always show itself clearly at first. Learning to read those subtle signs slowing, lagging, seeking to be picked up matters.

Sometimes carrying for a short stretch across rough ground, crowds or hazards is simply sensible management.

It depends: Individual Dogs, preferences and history

A consistent theme from discussion was that, like people, dogs have preferences.

Some actively ask to be picked up climbing into laps, leaning in, offering their side or backing into position. Others strongly dislike it and would far rather deal with the world on their own four feet.

How handling is introduced, how touch is part of daily life, pain or physical discomfort, past experiences, and temperament all shape those preferences.

Some dogs learn that being lifted makes them feel safe. Others learn that it feels intrusive or frightening.

Our job is to listen.

So… Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up?

Since meeting Mila, I’ve looked at small dog management in a completely different light.

For me, it isn’t about rigid rules.

It’s about:

  • Safety
  • Predictability
  • Consent where possible
  • Thoughtful handling
  • Supporting confidence
  • And building resilience over time

Picking up and carrying can be a valid and useful place of safety for some dogs when used deliberately, compassionately, and alongside skill-building on the ground.

Individual dogs, histories, environments and caregiver skills all matter enormously.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Pain and behaviour

Mediator Dogs: Often vital but misunderstood

Joanne Hinds

In group settings, some dogs naturally fall unto the role of mediator. These are the dogs who step in when arousal runs too high, trying to keep things calmer and safer for everyone. They often look like the “fun police”, breaking up the party.

Sadly, they are often misunderstood. Instead of being recognised for their role, they are seen as disruptive and may even be asked to leave day care or a dog walking group. But what looks like “problem behaviour” can actually be a dog working hard to regulate the group.

What mediator dogs are (and are not)

  • They are not the same as fearful or anxious dogs who hide, snap defensively, or struggle to cope nor those whose subtle signals may have been missed over time and are using growling snapping or biting as a defensive mechanism.
  • They maybe the ones who chase the dog that is chasing the ball, not for the ball but in an attempt to slow the dog down when arousal is running high.
  • They might bark at a dog that hasn’t responded to subtler signals when they have had enough but are otherwise very sociable with dogs.
  • They may break up rough or high speed play by barking, intercepting or chasing the players.
  • They sometimes step in during human to human embraces or energetic contact, barking or wedging themselves between people. Often labelled as “jealousy” it is more likely the dog perceives there is potential conflict arising. Dogs do not embrace the way we do, so a hug can be misread as conflict.

Important to rule out first:

Of course if a dog is acting completely out of character and there has been no build up, it is always important to rule out anything physical. When dogs become less tolerant of certain types of interaction such as other dogs sniffing their back end or approaching their head, its vital to first consider discomfort.

  • Interestingly I am often contacted about these behaviours around the age of 2 or 3, when dogs mature but at this time growth plates have generally closed which can highlight discomfort.
  • Joint pain, impacted anal glands (often linked to gut health), or teeth, or ear pain can be just some of the reasons that a dog may have become more irritable or defensive.
  • These factors need ruling out before we assume the behaviour is purely about group dynamics.

Things to consider if you live with, socialise with or work with groups of dogs

Some dogs who attend group walks with other owners, dog walkers or day care from a young age naturally shift into this role as they mature. It may be a progression of personality to manage conflict or arousal, or it may be that they have tolerated things for a long time and finally reached a tipping point.

Instead of automatically excluding dogs who act this way (depending on the severity of the reaction of course), it can help to pause and ask what they might be communicating:

  • Is the group often becoming overstimulated?
  • Could their “Stress bucket” be full from other factors, like a rushed vehicle journey, lack of proper rest, rushed walks with very little processing?
  • Has this behaviour cropped up with other dogs in the group before?

If a dogs has been labelled as disruptive or you notice these patterns it does not mean they are badly behaved, they may be signalling stress, frustration or simply working hard to regulate the group. Acting as the referee too often can build stress over time and escalate into growling, snapping and lunging.

Is there science behind it?

While “mediator dog” isn’t a scientific label, the concept is supported by ethnological research:

  • Third party intervention (“policing”) has been documented in wolves and primates, where individuals step in to prevent conflict. Some studies suggest domestic dogs do something similar.
  • Play research shows dogs adapt their play signals depending on their partner’s responses, showing awareness of group dynamics.
  • Conflict management is recognised across species, where individuals actively prevent or resolve tension.

Some dogs and their wild relatives, like wolves, have been shown under certain conditions to make up after conflict, comfort each other and get help from a third dog to calm things down, especially if they’re very social.

Of course, many factors can drive behaviour and a full behavioural assessment may be needed to untangle the picture for an individual dog. But by recognising the possible role of mediator dogs, we can better support them, appreciate the work they are doing and create safer, calmer group environments.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp

Dog Behaviour

When Getting a Dog Feels Harder Than You Expected

Joanne Hinds

The struggles people do not talk about when having a dog

Bringing a dog into your life is often portrayed as joyful, healing, and wholesome and it can be however what we don’t talk about enough is the emotional crash that can come shortly after.

The sleepless nights. The constant worry. The guilt of not feeling the way you thought you would. For many new dog guardians, this reality hits hard and it’s rarely discussed.

This blog is for those in the thick of it: feeling overwhelmed, questioning their decision, or simply exhausted from trying to “get it right.” Let’s talk about why it feels so hard and why that doesn’t mean you’re failing.

The hope: Dogs as emotional support

Many people bring a puppy or rescue dog into their lives hoping for emotional comfort especially those navigating anxiety, depression, grief, or isolation. Dogs are often seen as a way to:

  • Get outside more
  • Build a routine
  • Ease feelings of loneliness
  • Provide a sense of purpose

But here’s the truth: in the beginning, a dog can amplify anxiety before it soothes it.

What often happens is this: in trying to provide the best for your new dog, you find yourself spiralling into stress. Constantly questioning your choices, reading every article, googling everything and watching video after video trying to do everything “right.” And when it still feels hard? The guilt creeps in.

Puppy blues and rescue dog guilt

There’s a name for this: the Puppy Blues or Rescue Dog Blues.

And it’s a very real emotional crash that many people experience in the first days, weeks, or even months after bringing a dog home.

You might feel:

  • Overwhelmed, anxious and unprepared
  • Exhausted from lack of sleep or relentless demands
  • Disconnected from your new dog
  • Frustrated that things aren’t “clicking”
  • Guilty for not enjoying it

This doesn’t make you a bad dog guardian. It makes you human and deeply caring.

Your anxiety and worry are signs of nurture, of wanting to get it right. Often, these very traits make people more attuned to their dog’s body language and needs.

But it’s also about balance. When care tips into hypervigilance or self-doubt, it can become emotionally draining for you, and for your dog.

The misconception: “Dogs fix anxiety”

It’s true that dogs can positively influence mental health there’s a growing body of evidence showing how their presence can lower cortisol, ease loneliness, and boost routine.

However that benefit doesn’t always show up straight away. Especially with puppies or newly rescued dogs, the early stages are intense:

  • Teething
  • Sleep deprivation
  • Toilet training
  • Socialisation pressures (“I need to do everything right in the first 16 weeks!”)
  • Managing fear or reactivity, growling, snapping and in some dogs biting

All while you’re also adjusting physically, emotionally, socially.

Sometimes, anxiety gets worse before it gets better.

Due to strict rehoming criteria in many UK-based rescues, people often turn to overseas organisations particularly in Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe. While these adoptions are often well-intended and full of heart, they can come with unique challenges.

Many of these dogs have:

  • Grown up as free-roaming street dogs
  • Had little to no experience living in homes
  • Spent long periods in shelter kennels
  • Missed out on early positive socialisation

Integrating them into UK life with leads, closed doors, traffic, visitors, and strict routines can be incredibly stressful for both the dog and the family. Without proper support, these dogs often bounce back into rescue, caught in a heartbreaking loop.

There are ethical rescues out there doing brilliant work, both in the UK and abroad but it’s vital to do your research. Choose a rescue that:

  • Offers post-adoption behavioural support
  • Matches dogs to homes carefully
  • Understands the background and likely challenges of the dogs
  • Will be honest about what the dog needs, not just what people want to hear

How human anxiety affects dogs and why that’s okay

There is a growing body of research showing how human mental health influences dog behaviour. Dogs are incredibly sensitive to our emotions they may mirror stress, become unsettled by unpredictability, or even change how they respond to training.

But that doesn’t mean you are to blame. It means:

  • You matter in this picture too
  • Your wellbeing is part of the process
  • Self-compassion is a crucial piece of helping your dog feel safe

It’s important to be aware of how your emotional state might be influencing your dog’s behaviour. Recognising this isn’t about blame it’s about understanding the bigger picture, and getting the support you may need to help you feel more confident, grounded, and capable.

In fact, people with anxiety often make brilliant dog guardians. You may notice small shifts in body language that others miss. You may advocate fiercely for your dog’s comfort. You may prioritise consent, choice, and ethical training.

Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength. Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength.

Why early support is everything

Many people wait until they’re at breaking point before asking for help often out of pride, fear of judgement, or the belief they should “just know” how to cope, early support can prevent small worries from becoming large ones.

You don’t have to do this alone.

Every dog is different. Every life stage brings something new. Even experienced owners and dog professionals can be thrown and that’s okay.

As a behaviourist and trainer, my role is about far more than sit/stay.

It’s about helping you breathe again. Helping you feel less alone. Helping you feel like you’ve got this because with the right help, you do.

Build your support system

You deserve support, too.

Whether that’s:

  • Friends or family you can offload to
  • Ethical, compassionate trainers and behaviourists
  • Doggy daycare or walkers who understand your dog’s needs
  • Online or local groups where you can be real about how hard it feels

Creating your own support circle doesn’t just benefit your mental health it increases the likelihood of long-term success for your dog too.

Asking for help doesn’t mean you’ve failed. It means you care enough to try.

If you are still struggling it is okay

Let’s say this clearly, because it matters:

If you are. not coping, that doesn’t make you weak or heartless.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, it becomes clear that you and your dog are not the right match emotionally, practically, or environmentally. Rehoming or returning a dog is never easy, but it can sometimes be the kindest option for everyone involved.

If you reach that point, please:

  • Don’t suffer in silence
  • Reach out to the rescue or a qualified behaviour professional
  • Work with organisations who will put your dog’s welfare and emotional needs first
  • Take time to find a rescue that understands your dog’s breed, background, or type and offers ethical behaviour support to help you succeed

This is not failure it’s responsible and compassionate decision-making, however try not to make a decision like this when you’re in the middle of emotional overwhelm. Take a breath, reach out for support, and make the choice from a grounded place.

Final Thoughts: You’re Not Failing. You’re Finding Your Way.

If you’re reading this with tears in your eyes, feeling like you are in over your head please hear this:

You are not alone.

You are not failing.

You are not broken.

You are doing something big, new, and incredibly emotional. It’s normal for it to feel messy and hard at first.

With the right support, the chaos quiets. The relationship grows. The joy returns not because things are perfect, but because you’ve allowed space for grace, for growth, and for being human.

If you’re struggling with your new dog or puppy and need compassionate, practical help, I offer behaviour and training support that’s tailored to both ends of the lead.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp

Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Food and Training: Are We Over-Restricting Our Dogs?

Joanne Hinds

Eating food and drinking water are fundamental needs that every human, animal, and species is entitled to. Yet, when it comes to dogs, we often place restrictions on these basic necessities asking them to wait, building excessive durations before they can eat, or managing their food intake so rigidly that it’s only allowed during training sessions. Is this fair? No wonder we see so many dogs with eating problems, resource guarding issues or nutritional deficiencies.

The Labrador Dilemma

Take Labradors, for example a breed famously labelled as “greedy” or willing to eat anything. While studies have shown that some Labradors possess a gene mutation that impacts their ability to feel satiated, we must also consider whether human actions play a role. Labrador owners, concerned about the breed’s tendency to become overweight, often restrict food or opt for low-calorie diets. These foods, high in carbohydrates but lacking in fulfilling properties, may leave dogs perpetually hungry.

Are we contributing to the problem by creating environments where food is restricted, over-managed, or insufficiently nourishing? Is it truly hunger caused by genetics, or is it a response to human-imposed limitations?

Food as a Training Tool

Using food in training is common and effective, and I use food and play as rewards too. But I ensure we never use a dog’s meal for training purposes and will give them food without asking them to do something every time and will give them a snack or their meal when I am eating as well, you wouldn’t eat in front of someone else without offering them something too. Dogs deserve to enjoy their meals without conditions attached, we just have to ensure the food we do use for training is accounted for as part of their daily calorie needs.

I focus my training on safety and building positive associations. I do generally reserve special foods something they love for training requirement to keep it exciting and rewarding which I still question my self about however I want to ensure I do not infringe on their basic right to eat freely.

Drawing Parallels with Children

Imagine if we treated children the same way we treat dogs when it comes to food. What if children had to “earn” their meals or were denied food for not meeting certain expectations? Social services would undoubtedly intervene, recognising such practices as neglectful and unethical. Yet, with dogs, this level of control is not only accepted but encouraged in many training circles.

This dynamic raises questions about the ethics of using food as leverage. Could this approach contribute to issues such as fussiness, food refusal, or digestive problems in dogs? Some dogs go days without eating or are spoon-fed or hand-fed by anxious owners. Is it possible that our own anxiety around food is perpetuating these issues?

Balancing Food and Training Needs

Of course, dogs must adapt to human lifestyles and societal expectations. Food is a practical and often essential tool for training behaviours that help dogs navigate our world safely and appropriately. But we must be mindful:

  • Are the behaviours we’re training necessary for their well-being and to keep them and others safe or are they imposed solely to fit human convenience or entertainment.
  • Respecting their autonomy: Dogs, like all living beings, have their own preferences and needs. While food can be a powerful motivator, we should also respect their space and allow them to make choices. When we constantly use food to guide their actions, we risk diminishing their ability to make independent decisions and express natural behaviour.
  • The effect of food-based training on their relationship with us: Dogs form bonds based on trust and connection, not just what they can get in exchange for performing tasks. If food becomes the primary currency for every interaction, we risk shifting the relationship to one based on transactions rather than genuine companionship.
  • Not overshadowing other forms of enrichment: Training is important, but it’s equally crucial to consider the other ways we enrich our dogs’ lives. Mental stimulation, social interactions, physical exercise, and opportunities for play all contribute to a dog’s well-being. If food is the main tool we use, we may neglect these other important aspects of a dog’s development and happiness.


A Call to Rethink

As dog professionals and dog owners, it’s time to reconsider our approach to food and training. Dogs are not here to entertain us or live in ways entirely contrary to their instincts. They deserve to have their basic needs and natural behaviours where possible met without excessive restriction or exploitation.

Let’s aim to build confidence and trust through mindful practices that respect their nature. By focusing on safety, positive associations, and rewards that are meaningful yet balanced, we can create training experiences that enhance our dogs’ well-being without compromising their right to simply enjoy being dogs.

By rethinking how we use food, we can help dogs live healthier, happier lives—free from unnecessary stress and anxiety around their most basic need.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

How to overcome the puppy blues so you can enjoy your puppy!

Joanne Hinds

Having a new puppy can be a bit of an emotional roller coaster at times, but it’s often the lesser talked about reality of new puppy parenthood. It can leave you feeling a little isolated, frustrated, and even perhaps regretful. It’s the puppy blues in full effect! 

I’m going to let you into a well-kept secret that I think will help you. A large percentage of the issues we see with puppies are not actually training issues at all. 

There are two things that are leading to you feeling overwhelmed, conflicted, and possibly even guilty about life with your new puppy. You might be surprised to learn that they are both fairly easy to overcome once you identify them. 

So what are they, Jo? I hear you cry. 

Expectations and too much information. 

In this puppy blues blog, we will delve into both of these factors so you can recognise them, manage them and come out the other side with your sanity intact and a dog you love deeply and understand. 

So, let’s start with expectations. 

Puppy Blues: Is it normal to feel regret after getting a puppy?

You had a vision of what life was going to look like when you welcomed your puppy or rescue dog home. And this isn’t it. 

You’re exhausted. You’re monitoring your puppy’s toileting habits constantly, you’re sleep-deprived, and you’re frankly covered in bite marks gifted to you by your little shark puppy’s razor-sharp teeth. 

It’s disappointing, upsetting, frustrating, and you might even be feeling like getting your puppy was a terrible idea. Don’t panic! It’s also normal!

Guess what?! Your puppy is more than likely behaving like a puppy. The problem is not you, and it’s not your puppy. He isn’t some devilish spawn that you should never have invited into your life.

The problem is that you weren’t given an honest reflection of what these early weeks and months might look like. It’s not your fault. 

You read all the books and boffed up before getting him home, but now it’s like everything you read was written for someone else. 

I’ll tell you why. There isn’t much out there that highlights the fact that your puppy will not master everything you try and train immediately. And that’s not because you’re not doing it right. It’s because there are developmental milestones that have to be reached before that training will cement. Training takes time. 

Why is my puppy so hard to train? 

Your 9-week old puppy cannot physically hold their wee and poo in. They are not developed enough to do so. Your puppy doesn’t have the capacity to be fully toilet trained until approx 16 weeks old, when he can begin to learn to hold his toileting needs until he’s in an appropriate place. 

That doesn’t mean there’s no point in doing any toilet training. There is. But it means that you can allow yourself to relax a little and enjoy the little successes which are slowly adding up. 

Let go of berating yourself (and your puppy) whenever you find a puddle somewhere you’d rather not. It’s going to happen. Stock up on kind words for yourself and your puppy, enzymatic cleaner to remove odours and stains, and treats for celebrating the toileting that is happening in the right places. 

And trust that it will pay off. These little accidents may be frustrating, but they won’t be forever. 

The puppy biting you’re experiencing is also normal. Your puppy is teething, prone to becoming overtired in the blink of an eye and learning about the world with her mouth. You can do things to help your puppy with their sore teeth, but it is unrealistic to think you can completely eradicate any biting. 

Those sleepless nights or hideously early mornings? Yup, normal! Again, there are things we can do to make it easier on you and your puppy, but it’s unlikely that you’ll be gifted a puppy who sleeps 12hrs straight as soon as they enter your life. 

The fun and joy you expected from puppy life are in there. You will enjoy your life with your dog. The puppy blues will pass! 

You just need some help to adjust your expectations so that you can revel in your training successes and actually recognise when they happen. You might find that your puppy training is actually going swimmingly, you just need a different perspective… and perhaps a couple of small tweaks to help you on your way. 

Who can I trust – there is so much conflicting information

I remember when I first had my son, Logan. Yes, I’m talking about a human child, but stick with me, it is relevant, I promise. 

I drove myself round the bend, worrying about whether I was getting it right. I’d read so many books while pregnant, but my views were completely different when he arrived. 

So what did I do? I turned to Google, of course! 

And I didn’t stop there. I read various books, talked to friends, and tied myself in little knots once I’d acquired a ton of conflicting advice. 

It was overwhelming, confusing, and very unhelpful.  

We all have really good gut instincts, but we go down these rabbit holes seeking information, and we often end up ignoring or even fighting against our gut.

I have clients who have achieved great results using books or videos from YouTube. They have developed amazing skills which have helped them to train their dogs. But there is still something missing. 

For a lifetime of success, understanding, and a strong bond with your dog, you need to not just be able to teach behaviours but to have a clear understanding of your dog’s behaviour. 

What’s beneath the problems you are experiencing? When you understand your dog’s specific needs, what motivates him, what he struggles with and what emotions he is experiencing, you are both set up for an incredible relationship.

That can’t be taught in a generic video or picked up from a well-meaning dog friend because your dog is unique. There will be different motivations, life experiences, breed traits and so much more that affect your dog’s perspective on the world. 

Let’s go back to Logan for a minute. Imagine I told a friend he screamed all night, and I was at my wit’s end. And imagine my friend told me that she had a similar experience, and her baby was hungry, so she gave her an extra feed before bed, and the problem was solved. 

So off I toddle, and I give Logan a huge top up feed before bedtime. Only he doesn’t sleep soundly. He screams even more and for longer. Because the reason he couldn’t sleep was reflux, and the extra milk just made that 10x worse. This is a made-up story, but I just want to highlight how if we seek out information without a two-way exchange, it can quickly lead us into bigger problems. 

Just like children, our puppies and dogs need us to be consistent. And with the best of intentions, when we bounce from pillar to post trying different techniques from various people, it simply doesn’t work. In fact, a lot of the time, it creates bigger problems, because we are now unpredictable to our dogs (or kids), and that doesn’t foster confidence or security. 

What should I focus on with my puppy?

Your puppy is like a baby, he/she needs you. The absolute best thing you can do for your puppy (and your future self) is to help your puppy to grow in confidence. The typical dog training obedience stuff can come later. The early weeks and months are all about supporting your puppy and helping him/her to feel secure and safe. 

This solid foundation will enable you to build a strong relationship with your puppy. And that foundation will make it a million times easier to teach your puppy the vital skills they need to grow into an assured, confident, and happy dog. 

You can begin teaching cues such as drop and leave to help keep your puppy safe, of course. I don’t mean that you should completely ignore all elements of training your puppy. But the area of most importance is your relationship and their feeling secure. 

So, if you’re not going to Google everything and ask every dog owner you know, what’s the alternative? 

“I wish I had got help from the beginning” is a phrase I hear from clients all the time. Initially, they tried using a book or the internet to help them with their puppy woes, but the reality was they became even more overwhelmed. 

They wound up pulling their hair out and making things so much harder for both themselves and their puppy. 

Prevention is better than cure

Don’t put off puppy training until you have a problem. It will be so much harder for you and your puppy. 

Being proactive to prevent problems or getting help as soon as they arise sets you and your puppy up for success both now and in the future. Whether you’re having a tough time or you’d like to try and prevent a challenge from occurring, having a professional you can call on to discuss your individual situation is a huge relief. 

How choosing one to one puppy training support can help you overcome the puppy blues

Group puppy training classes usually teach general obedience training covering things like sit, stay, recall, and drop. And while these can be helpful skills to learn, you then have to take what you’ve learned in a class environment and progress it in the outside world alone. And that can be tricky without someone coaching you through the little hiccups that occur in day-to-day life. 

Choosing one to one dog training support means that we work on your specific challenges and your unique goals. We consider your lifestyle, the things that are important to you, and we work on a bespoke plan for your puppy or dog and support you through putting it into action. 

I’m not just a dog trainer and behaviourist, I support the humans I work with. If you have a safe person to turn to it makes it a million times easier for you to be the safe person for your puppy. 

And it helps you get over those inevitable humps without falling down a Google hole, only to emerge confused, even more exhausted, and utterly fed up. 

Instead, you have one person to reach out to who will give you consistent, tailored advice and support that meets your needs and those of your puppy. Hurrah!

So that vision you had of life with a confident and calm dog by your side that can stride through life with you no matter what happens is your reality. 

If you’re struggling with the puppy blues, then please don’t suffer alone. Reach out and get in touch with me, and let’s banish those puppy blues so you can enjoy your new pup! 

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp

Since you’re here and tackling all things puppy, you might find this blog on socialising your puppy a useful read. https://johinds.com/2018/03/29/dog-play-vs-oversocialisation/

Dog Equipment

Poorly Fitted Harnesses

Joanne Hinds

Harnesses are like a pair of shoes, a badly fitted one can effect movement, rub and generally be uncomfortable. This can impact how dogs walk, their behaviour in general on the lead and for puppies how they grow. It can encourage pulling to alleviate pressure or the position of the D ring can cause them to pull forward to keep balance. Many pet shops sell poorly designed harnesses.

Dachund with poorly fitted red harness
This harness is not tight enough and is slipping and is rubbing as the dog walks.

There are lots of harnesses that state they are non pull this is usually because it is hindering the stride in the front legs or tightening around the armpits.

Spaniel with poorly fitted harness
Hindering stride as rubbing on shoulder joint

You want one that sits above the shoulders so they can take a full stride, is clear of the armpit area and sits before the mid section of the spine where the bones point towards each other. The ideal harness has a Y front, is fixed and a good size back section specifically for the dogs shape.


Rubbing under arm pit and causing this dog to limp, loose and hindering shoulder joint.

I generally (although this is dog dependant) do not recommend walking on collars as it can cause a lot of discomfort around the neck and throat not to mention cutting off oxygen in the way we hold it or if they pull. Short nose breeds should always be walked on a harness. A long line should always be attached to a harness too, NEVER a collar it can cause whiplash and worse.

Top 3 Harnesses I recommend

Perfect Fit

The Perfect Fit Harness is one on my recommended list, these come in a huge array of sizes and three pieces for the bigger breeds so if one part doesn’t fit right you can send one piece back and it works the same way as they grow, as you can buy the next size up for the piece they have grown out of it replace sections if ever damaged. This harness is fleece lined with neck clips for the dogs who also are not comfortable with putting their head through the harness.

Tellington TTouch

The Tellington TTouch harness was designed and developed in the UK by Sarah Fisher to help dogs walk freely in balance on a loose lead, and to minimise pressure on important anatomical structures in dogs’ necks. The TTouch harness is manufactured in the UK from colour fast webbing and high quality D and O rings. It has contoured plastic clips on both sides of the neck piece and back piece. This enables the handler to fit the harness without triggering concern by putting the harness over the dog’s head or by lifting the dog’s front leg. It is easily removed by releasing the clips without the need to pull the harness over the head which can cause anxiety for some dog.

Blue 9 Balance Harness

The Blue K9 Balance Harness designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harness™ has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.

A lot of shop bought harnesses have just one point of contact, all of the above harnesses have a ring at the front and a ring at the back (T Touch has a choice of two) for attaching the lead, making it both versatile and practical. By clipping a leash to the front of the harness instead of a collar, tension is reduced on the dog’s neck and back, helping to influence the dog’s balance and centre of gravity (thus improving gait and posture). Control is maintained simply by giving a gentle ask and release signal to the lead clipped to the front of the harness.

What is important is introducing the harness positively, we can often get away with putting things on puppies and some dogs because we can lift them up to do it, often we do not realise they are not comfortable with this. Dogs will give subtle signs that are often missed like lip licking, yawning, panting, cowering or them nipping us as an indication for us to stop. Over time when the harness comes out they can run a mile or sometimes even become aggressive.

Pair the whole process with lot of treats until they are comfortable; for sniffing the harness, putting nose towards harness, harness touching them, nose through hole, head going through, then dropping some on to a towel or snuffle mat to get the strap around their waist, then as soon as it’s on play with them and have fun. Listen when they are saying stop and go slower if they are.

Do not tie it instantly with going out on a walk particularly for any puppies/dogs that have never been on a walk or dogs that are a frightened outside as we can then accidentally teach them harness equals something scary. It’s important to take your time with the process, this will pay off in the end and ensure your dog is not anxious before the walk even gets started.

If your dog pulls remember to work on your loose lead walking, you must also rule out any anxiety on walks as this triggers pulling to get past things they are not comfortable with or physical discomfort as some dogs pull as a result of reduced mobility through the hind quarters.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

Ask The Dog

Joanne Hinds

My latest book is out, called ASK THE DOG. What made me write this book? Many things; my now 4 year old son, the adults that go straight up to dogs and stroke without asking because they are ‘dog lovers’, the people that have had dogs for years but are missing the subtle body language that dogs display, when they would prefer to be left alone, the number of children that try to come running up to us, when I am out with a client and their dog and of course the many cases I deal with where dogs have bitten.

Ask the dog by Joanne Hinds cover page mum and son asking a owner and the dog whether they are happy to be stroked

Children below the age of 15 account for a high percentage of all dog bites, with the most vulnerable group being kids around 5 or younger, with this group at higher risk of being bitten in the face and are more likely to require hospitalisation than older children. Nearly 90% of the dogs are known to the children that are bitten. Children unfortunately do not recognise canine emotional expressions like growling for example, very well and sadly boys seemed to recognise fearfulness less in dogs.  These are the many factors why I felt it was important for me to help educate children, parents and people in general, on how to recognise when dogs are saying they do not want to be touched.

Now let’s think about it, how much are we touched on a daily basis by known or unknown people? If we walked down the street stopping and physically touching people unsolicitedly, we would not only get some strange looks and make people feel uncomfortable but we might get someone shouting at us or worse. Now think about how much we physically touch and handle dogs. You could be having a BBQ for your friends and family, and as the family dog (big dogs in particular) moves from one room to the next, it may have been touched by at least 80% of the people in the room, just on the way through. Little dogs can often move away quicker but people often pick them up instead which makes them feel uncomfortable, vulnerable and threatened. Not many dogs like being picked up, an indication of this can be when they start licking your face repeatedly, ears back we like to call this the “Kiss to dismiss” which is often the dogs attempt to stop the interaction, see the following article on this https://www.familypaws.com/kiss-to-dismiss-not-all-licks-are-the-same/ by Family Paws Parent Education, they have some excellent information on keeping children safe on their website too. Yes there are some dogs that are on top of you licking you repeatedly because they do like being close but others only do this when you grab or hug/restrain them as this is not normal in the dog world, you don’t see dogs hugging and stroking each other.

Now it’s not just children that this book is aimed at, its for adults too, we are human and designed to read human behaviour, so we often miss when a dog doesn’t want to be engaged with. It’s a credit to many dogs that they don’t bite, many use the subtle signals like lip licking, turning a way and moving away to indicate that they do not want to be approached, and it’s only when these signals have been missed over and over that they have to use bigger displays like barking, growling, snapping or biting to get their message across more effectively. These behaviours are no different from us shouting, lunging or hitting at someone that made us feel uncomfortable too. The common thing I am told is my dog is so good, he tolerates anything we do to him and my response is but is that fair?

ASK THE DOG is about giving dogs the choice to interact or not, giving them the choice to say “No”, to keep people safe and to be mindful that dogs do not always want to be petted. It encourages children to make sure any dogs they encounter are happy to be stroked, and how to recognise signs that a dog may not want to be approached. The message is delivered in the form of a poem. With colourful, eye-catching illustrations to draw in younger readers and help to underline the points made in the text. 

Available in paper back and Kindle Ebook, get your copy today on the following link https://amzn.to/2Kg6sRY and help me spread the word so more people are kept safe.

Bye for now.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

Is your dog getting enough sleep?

Joanne Hinds

Transcript:

In my job I go into a number of peoples homes where dogs are not getting enough sleep or even rest, they maybe getting sleep in the night but in the day they get none or worse they are restless at night too.  Over tiredness in dogs and puppies can cause all sorts of unwanted behaviour nipping and biting in puppies, in adults; biting when disturbed from sleep, some labelled “Grumpy” around people and other dogs and more. 

Adult dogs need on average 12 -14 hours of sleep if they are in sync with your own sleep patterns say 8 hours a night, they need to get the remaining hours through the day. Older dogs generally sleep more as they tire out more easily and I believe need rest in order to function properly. Puppies, like babies, spend a lot of time expelling energy while playing and exploring their new surroundings, it can be stressful learning human rules and learning about the world, which means they might need as much as 18 to 20 hours of sleep to recover.

Just like us sleep is vital for dogs, it gives the dogs body time to heal, a dog deprived of sleep will have a weakened immune system therefore more prone to sickness and putting them at risk of serious conditions. Lack of sleep also has a huge effect on mood state. As humans suffer from fatigue and increased risk of obesity, due to lack of sleep, we would be fooled to think this is not a risk for dogs too.

Sleep is also important for learning and retaining information. A study was done by the family dog project and they found sleep did help dogs with memory consolidation. This blog gives us an insight https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/dog-spies/memory-wins-when-dogs-sleep/

There are many reasons why dogs are lacking sleep;

Inadequate or uncomfortable bed area

A plastic dog bed or hard floor is not comfortable for a dog and not conducive to having a good nights sleep or adequate sleep or rest in the day. In the wild dogs dig the earth to make it softer or choose the most comfortable resting spot they can find. Yes dogs do choose the floor as-well particularly if they are hot but some move around quite a bit during the night which you would notice if they were on your bed, which mean some struggle in crates for this reason too. If you have wooden, tiled or laminate flooring a moving bed is unsettling to and a nervous dogs won’t want to lay on it. Dogs are social animals and generally like to rest near us, a completely relaxed dependant dog would happily sleep away, a lot of people frequent the kitchen and tell me their dogs pester the visitors constantly, I look round the kitchen and see there is no where for the dog to just chill and calm down. I often ask people to get me a blanket or towel I lay it down near us and carry on talking to the owner leaving the dog be and the dog looks almost grateful and lies straight down.

Underfloor Heating 

This is another problem for some dogs particularly if you have this throughout the house, dog’s over heat quickly so having a place they can go where it is not heated is important. I get complaints about dogs digging up the garden, if your dog digs a hole and then lies in it, the main reason will be because either they have no comfortable place in the house or because they are digging to get to the cool earth underneath, if you don’t like it provide them an equivalent like a cool bed in the shade.

Multiple options

If you are not allowing your dog on the bed or furniture (yes you can by the way, this does not make them dominant), they need multiple options, each dog is different and have different bed preferences, cave, flat, thick, bean bag, beds with lips for dogs like short nose breeds, that need to lift their head to help them breathe, and some like some dogs like being covered up. Before you say it, no they are not “just a dog” and should not “just be grateful they get anything!” Some people who don’t let their dogs on the furniture have a daily battle with their dogs getting up there,  or worse the dogs become aggressive. Think about it, we often appear or become threatening first, Dave the dog is lying there minding his own business, nice and comfortable on the sofa or bed, having a lovely rest and then we suddenly come in telling them to get off, or sadly drag them off by their collar. Over time they start to defend themselves and no they don’t know they shouldn’t be on the furniture, they can just read in your body language that you are angry and this can be as simple as a look, so they either appease you with slinky body language as they don’t want conflict or they use aggression to defend themselves. I know what I am like when I am disturbed from sleep, ask my poor husband! 

Location, Location, Location

Your dog should have at least one bed where there is no foot traffic, away from where your children play loads and the hustle and bustle of a busy household, never located near a cupboard that is frequently used etc. 

Many locations where dogs sleep, like the kitchen for example have no window blinds/curtains these days, which means dogs get disturbed by all the critters that wake up at night, that we are not even aware off. This can make them more anxious or on high alert and no blinds mean it can make them rise when the sun does. Often people tell me their dog doesn’t use the bed that they bought them at all, this is either because the bed is not the right one for the dog, they might not find it comfortable or are not used to the texture, or it is located where the dog is not comfortable, is there a draught, is it to close to the radiator, is it facing the front window where it’s bombarded with perceived threats e.g. people and/or dogs walking by that make them uncomfortable? If they are crated, again there should be a bed or at least a crate mat like the one here. There should be enough room so that your dog can stand up fully, and lie down with their legs stretched fully without touching the crate walls.

Crates ideally should not be forever. Of course some dogs love them and would choose the crate or den area over everything else, that is absolutely fine just be sure they are getting adequate sleep in there.

Let sleeping dogs lie

Never disturb your dog when resting or sleeping, yes if they are on your lap it’s fine to stroke them, although once they are a sleep try not to. If they have decided to sleep away from you on their bed or on the other end of the couch, leave them alone and ensure children do too! Don’t decide I want to play with them and wake them up. I know they look adorable, but don’t be tempted to give them a stroke, it’s annoying. We touch dogs far more than they would touch each other, if we did it to people as frequently it would be classed as inappropriate and irritating, give them a break.  Most people hate being touched in their sleep, it’s startling and unsettling, why are we shocked when a dog snaps or is grumpy when they are woken constantly, if it doesn’t happen frequently then they are less likely to react this way, but lack of sleep in general can trigger snapping and it’s quite common in fearful/anxious dogs that need help in other areas of their life.

The Bed Chewer

For a dog that chews beds, try multiple old towels or duvets, rather than spending a fortune on beds, under supervision of course, particularly if they swallow what they chew. Reintroduce the bed differently focusing on calm activities, encouraging them to lie down in a relaxed position, and giving them Kongs filled with something they have to lick, as opposed to dropping it, or chews that take them a while. Ensure to reintroduce the bed slowly, managing access to it at first. Be sure it’s not on a slippery surface because ones that move, can attract chewing particularly in puppies, as it becomes a fun toy just like puppy pads. 

Visiting other locations

When visiting restaurants, cafes, friends homes etc always take a comfortable familiar mat too, this helps dogs feel more relaxed having a recognised space to go to, this is especially important if you are going to a house where another dog resides. The floor inside and outside a cafe/restaurant, is hard and freezing on a cold day and on a hot day they must have the option to move into the shade as dogs over heat quickly. Ensure they are not trapped with no escape route in these places and ask people to not touch them, the mat should be there safe place, only letting people stroke your dog, if your dog is indicating they want the attention. As mentioned I personally really like these they are designed for dog crates however they are handy to take with you, they have an anti slip surface and double up as a snuffle mat too, win win. Others use bath mats, both can be rolled up. I have also seen some very thoughtful owners put an item of their clothing down, if they have nothing else.

Collars

A final point to consider is how comfortable is your dog’s collar. If you can, pop it round your neck, arm or leg and lie down on it, is it comfortable does it dig in. Take collars off at night to give them a break, popping it back on in the morning before breakfast, it’s always advisable to take collars off when puppies are in crates anyway, incase they get their tag trapped which can cause choking and particularly when two dogs are left alone together as there has been many cases, where the dog has caught its jaw in the other dog’s collar, there are always risks they can get hung on things.

As you can see there are many things as behaviourists, we have to consider when looking at a dogs behaviour. It’s important to be mindful and try and think from your dog’s point of view.

Who knew that sleeping can be so complicated hey!

Bye for now. 

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Dog Socialisation

Joanne Hinds

There is a strong expectation in society that dogs should get along with every dog they meet.

Many people believe that socialisation means exposing puppies and dogs to as many other dogs as possible puppy parties, dog meet-ups, dog walkers and lots of time playing in parks.

The idea is that the more dogs they meet, the better socialised they will be.

But the reality is far more complex than that.

Dogs are individuals. Just like people, they have preferences, personalities and limits. Some enjoy interacting with lots of dogs, others prefer a small circle of familiar companions, and some simply aren’t that interested in socialising with unfamiliar dogs at all.

Unfortunately, the pressure we place on dogs to interact with every dog they meet can sometimes create the very problems we are trying to avoid.

Every Dog’s Experience of Socialisation Is Different

You could take five puppies to the same socialisation class and each one could have a completely different experience.

That experience depends on many factors:

  • their general emotional state
  • how they felt on the day
  • the behaviour of the other dogs
  • how their guardian handled the interaction
  • the guardian’s emotional state
  • whether anything startled them during the session
  • stress they may have experienced in the days beforehand

All of these things influence how a dog learns to feel about other dogs.

Two dogs can leave the same class with completely different feelings about social interaction.

The “Let Them Sort It Out” Myth

One piece of advice that still circulates widely is that dogs should simply be left to “sort it out themselves”.

In my experience, this can be hugely unfair, especially for puppies who are still learning about the world of dogs and the many different breeds and personalities they might encounter.

If a puppy repeatedly goes to the park and has unpleasant or overwhelming interactions, they are unlikely to grow up feeling relaxed around other dogs.

Using older dogs to “teach puppies manners” can also be problematic. Older dogs may be in pain, may have less energy, or simply may not want to interact anymore. Expecting them to constantly correct younger dogs puts them in a difficult position.

And what about the dog who has previously been attacked? Should they simply be expected to tolerate another dog charging up to them and ignoring their signals?

What I Often See in Parks

As a dog trainer and behaviourist working one-to-one with clients, I spend a lot of time in places where dogs and their guardians socialise.

This might be local parks such as St Mary’s Park, woodland walks, busy places like Ruislip Lido or Rickmansworth Aquadrome, country parks such as Black Park, Langley Park and Denham Country Park, large green spaces like Horsenden Hill, or simply everyday walks around the block.

One thing that becomes very clear is that there is a huge and varied dog-owning community.

But I also regularly see dogs who run up to every dog they encounter, whether that dog is on lead or off lead. These dogs are often highly aroused and may struggle to read other dogs’ body language.

Sometimes they bark in another dog’s face, repeatedly try to initiate interaction, or continue pestering even when the other dog is trying to disengage.

Often these dogs genuinely want to interact they just haven’t learned how to do so in a way that other dogs find comfortable.

When Dogs Feel Pressured to Socialise

When a dog feels overwhelmed or pressured during interactions, they will often try to diffuse the situation rather than escalate it.

Many guardians mistake these behaviours as signs that the dog is relaxed or playful, when in reality they can be signs of appeasement or stress.

Some examples include:

Fawning behaviours

  • Rolling onto their back
  • Excessive licking of another dog’s face
  • Crouching or lowering their body
  • Rapid tail wagging with a tense body

These behaviours are often attempts to signal “I’m not a threat” or “please don’t hurt me.”

Fooling about behaviours

Some dogs will suddenly become very silly or exaggerated in their movements bouncing, spinning, or acting overly playful. While this can sometimes look funny or entertaining to us, it can actually be a way of diffusing tension in a situation they find uncomfortable.

Dogs are incredibly skilled at trying to avoid conflict.

But if these signals are repeatedly ignored, the dog may eventually feel they have no option but to escalate to growling, barking or snapping.

When Dogs Try to Disengage

Dogs will often try to politely opt out of an interaction before things escalate.

They might:

  • look away
  • turn their body away
  • walk away
  • start sniffing the ground
  • move behind their guardian

These are all ways of saying “I’m not interested right now.” Or they are indicating for the other a dog to approach calmer.

If another dog continues to pursue them, that interaction can quickly become stressful.

In these situations it’s absolutely okay to increase distance and continue walking. You can also ask the other guardian to call their dog.

Advocating for your dog is part of keeping them safe.

Why Street Dogs Inspired This Blog

One reason I wanted to write this blog is the increasing number of street dogs I now see as clients.

Many of these dogs previously lived on the streets, where being able to communicate effectively with other dogs is essential for survival. Injuries or illness could be life-threatening, so avoiding conflict becomes incredibly important.

As a result, many street dogs are excellent communicators. They are often very skilled at reading subtle body language and defusing situations early.

When these dogs arrive here, they can initially find some of our pet dogs confusing and over stimulated, particularly those who rush over without reading signals.

This can sometimes make the street dog appear unsociable, when in reality they are simply navigating a very different social environment.

What I Encourage Instead

The interactions I aim for with the clients I work with are simple and relaxed.

Dogs approach, exchange information, have a brief sniff and then continue their walk.

Short, polite interactions.

Much like how we might briefly say hello to a neighbour as we pass them on the street.

Standing in a group in the middle of a park while dogs interact for long periods can often lead to rising arousal levels. When you step back and observe closely, you will often notice that at least one dog would actually prefer to move on.

Exploring the environment, sniffing and moving through the world at their own pace is often far more enriching for dogs than extended social interactions.

Want to Learn More About Play?

Dog play is a huge topic in itself, and understanding what healthy play looks like can make a big difference.

I’ve written a separate blog that explores dog play in more detail, including what to watch for and when to interrupt.

Dog play: Do you know what warning signs to watch out for?

A Simple Goal

Short.

Polite.

Relaxed interactions.

That’s what most dogs actually need..

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

10 Reasons why dogs pull

Joanne Hinds

Ever wonder why some people just struggle to stop there dog pulling, even though they have been to many training classes. Lack of time of course is one reason, if a dog has not been taught from a puppy to walk on a loose lead, it take a lot more time, effort and dedication to correct this behaviour and lots and lots of patience!

However there are a number of reasons why dogs pull on the lead:

Opposition reflex

Pulling against a dog that is pulling away from you is counter productive, if you pull them back they will pull forward it is as simple as that. This is why techniques like jerking on the lead or simply pulling them back, makes them pull away from you and sometimes even pull more.

We dictate the whole walk

If we dictate their every move on the lead, insisting on being at heel, correcting the position manually or constantly stopping them sniffing, they again will fight against you to get to the sniff that they want and in fact need, dogs get a lot of information from sniffing and stopping them can cause frustration and even anxiety. There needs to be a compromise between us and our dogs without them having to drag us.

Wants to get home


If your dogs is pulling on the way home, it is could be that either your walk is too long or see point 8 your dog is not enjoying the walk.

To get to something


Is your dog one that walks nicely until they see a cat, squirrel, person or another dog. 9/10 times this is because of how we handle the lead, over time you can trigger the behaviour because by pulling them back, you make the target much more interesting then it really is. Like toddlers you take something away from them they want it even more. We pull the dog away sometimes before they have even seen the stimuli.

Practiced behaviour


If dogs pull and we follow they learn to get where they want to go, this is standard advice because yes of course the behaviour get rehearsed, however I always look at what they are pulling for. Taking your dog out when you are rushed, means you are more likely to encourage pulling as the dogs feel pressured into just walking and can potentially put them in a sense of fight or flight. Pulling to the park gets them to the park is another saying. Often this is also because the park has become more rewarding than the journey to the park or that it’s more relaxing for them there away from busy loud traffic for example.

Too short a lead


If you walk your dog on a short lead, a lead you wrap round your hand or even standard length leads, do not allow the dog enough freedom to explore as much as they need to, so some dogs learn to pull quickly and shoot across you just to get that sniff they are longing for.

Different Pace



Your dog just the same as other people, walks at a different pace than you. Your dog has four legs you have two, your dog has to learn to match your pace and that’s difficult, this is why during lead walking training, they often drift forward to their natural pace. You try keeping up with someone that walks faster or even slower than you, you will not sustain that pace for long!

Wrong equipment

Ill fitted or poorly designed dog walking equipment like harnesses, can cause discomfort due to rubbing or preventing relaxed strides, it is like a pair of uncomfortable shoes this can trigger dogs to pull to relieve the pain. Getting the right harnesses is key see my blog poorly fitted harness blog 


and another two often overlooked reasons…

Anxiety


Commonly these dogs pull on the way home, pull past busy places, pull anxiously when other dogs/people/or traffic is approaching. Dogs that are scared of noises are often ones that pull, like they want to get the walk over as soon as possible. Fear on walks is something that should be addressed professionally, fear and stress can have long term health implications and effect behaviour, seek help from a professional behaviour advisor.

Health

Dogs that have an injury, pain or discomfort can often find trotting or walking fast relieves the pressure. Dogs do not show injury or pain easy, pain has to be at about a 6 to see something like limping and about 10 for them to Yelp. Often the first sign of pain is behaviour change.

You see, pulling on the lead is not just about training, the above points are just some of the many factors that you need to consider when working on lead walking.

This is why lead walking techniques like, jerking, luring them back into position and changing direction, does not work for a lot of dogs. Not all dogs and I would actually go as far as to say most dogs are not happy walking to heel either and you know what it’s not necessary for a dog to walk to heel, or and asking them to be on the same side all the time can cause imbalances in the body as they are always look at you one side and not the other causing tension in the neck back and more and guess what they can be in front of you as well, it does not mean the dog is being dominant. Your walk should be a compromise between you and your dog, learn how to help him cope when anxious and work on a good loose lead walking technique that allows your dog to sniff and explore what they want but with out them pulling/dragging you down the street to do it.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

What Dogs Like

Joanne Hinds

As some of you may know, I have recently published a children’s book called “What Dogs Like“, a story in rhyme with an important safety message on bite prevention. Nearly 80% of dog bites are from the family or a friends dog. Written as a read-along-rhyme with informative illustrations, “What dogs Like” helps educate young people as well as their parents, on how to behave around their canine friends.

What inspired me to write this particular book was a few things; my little boy, the news with headlines like “family dog attacked out of the blue” and the many uncomfortable pictures/videos shared on social media on a daily basis, with children sometimes laying on, picking up or maybe even hugging their dog, with the dog using as many signals as possible to indicate it is not comfortable.

Firstly it is very rare for dogs to just bite out of the blue, unless there is an underlying medical condition, dogs give many subtle signals way before they growl, bark or bite. It’s a credit to the majority of dogs that most tolerate us as adults let alone younger children who are often unpredictable and are learning and investigating the world themselves, which often includes poking and prodding the family dog. I work with many dogs that have bitten or are close to that stage and their owners are often shocked that it has happened, commenting that they felt like it came out of the blue, but then when we go back through the dogs history, there has been a number of times the dog had been indicating its fearful, frustrated or just uncomfortable. Even if your dog appears to be ok, tolerates the children and hasn’t ever reacted negatively, does not mean they are comfortable.

It’s time for parents to help educate children and themselves and be an expert on what their dog and others are trying to tell us. Recognising the many subtle signals dogs use, way before they have to even growl. Lets all work together at reducing bite statistics to an all time low in children (and adults)!

Signs to look for:

  • Dog avoids children (not always as obvious with your own) often taking its self into another room when others visit
  • Pulling head back, turning away or backing off, ears back
  • Showing the whites of their eyes cautiously glaring, looking unsure
  • Yawning when not tired
  • Constantly panting
  • Tongue flick when no food is present
  • Hard eyes like they are concentrating or just staring
  • Tense Stiff Body and Tail, with mouth often closed

Common times these behaviours are displayed:

  • When being picked up
  • When approached especially when resting, eating or playing with a toy
  • When patted on the head
  • When being cuddled and restrained
  • When being dressed up
  • When being handled
  • When punishing them
  • When being forced to do something they don’t want to do

What to do:

  • If you have real concerns, seek a qualified dog behaviour advisor please see the following link to find yours http://capbt.org/findabehaviourist.php
  • Always ensure your dog has somewhere they can retreat to, where they will not be disturbed.
  • Pair the arrival of children with something that the dog doesn’t normally get, a tasty toy or chew but again ensure they have this where they will not be disturbed.
  • Help your dog out, if they are giving any of the above signals, redirect the child away from the dog, so the dog does not have to resort to growling, barking or biting to make the child go away.
  • Teach children the rules:
  1. When eating, resting and sleeping leave the dog alone.
  2. Dog must stay on the ground (No picking the dog up!).
  3. Adults manage unwanted behaviour in the dog, not children (No telling the dog off).
  4. No touching the dogs collar, no leading them around by it or pushing the dog around.
  5. Stroking must be on the dogs terms; ask the child to call the dog over, if the dog comes it probably is happy to be stroked but if it doesn’t come forward, leave the dog alone.
  6. When stroking the dog pause and see if the dog wants to move away, if they don’t carry on stroking.
  7. Stroking must be from collar to tail on the side or a scratch on the chest.
  8. If the children want to engage with the dog, let them hide a few treats or the dogs toy (if he is comfortable with that), around the house and get the dog to “find it”, always under adult supervision.

The Family Dog does some great videos to help children on appropriate behaviour around dogs see stopthe77.com

“What Dogs Like” is available in both paperback and digital on Amazon.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

A Walk to Remember

Joanne Hinds

How stimulating is your dogs walk?

Is it round the block or the same park once a day?

Do you always take the same route?

Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?

The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.

Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.

When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.

Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker

Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.

Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.

A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!

Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.

You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.

Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Banish the Food Bowl

Joanne Hinds

Providing dogs with appropriate mental and environmental stimulation is increasingly recognised as an important part of supporting their overall wellbeing. While enrichment on its own is unlikely to resolve complex behaviour challenges, research consistently shows that opportunities to forage, problem-solve, sniff and work for food can play a valuable role in reducing boredom, supporting emotional health and giving dogs appropriate outlets for natural behaviours.

One simple way to introduce more variety into a dog’s day is through interactive feeding.

For many years, most dogs have been fed from a bowl once or twice daily because that suits our routines. Some dogs cope perfectly well with this, but others appear less enthusiastic taking food from the bowl to eat elsewhere, leaving meals unfinished, or grazing throughout the day. Feeding patterns can influence appetite, arousal levels and digestion, and many professionals now recommend splitting daily rations into multiple meals where possible.

When we look at dogs’ evolutionary history, it isn’t surprising that working for food appeals to many of them. Research into free-living dogs shows they typically spend much of their day scavenging and searching for small food opportunities rather than eating one predictable meal. Even wild canids invest far more time in seeking food than consuming it. Although most modern dogs live as companions, motivations to sniff, investigate and forage remain part of their behavioural repertoire something we see when dogs hover in the kitchen, raid bins, or vacuum up anything remotely edible on walks.

That doesn’t mean we should encourage dogs to hunt wildlife or neighbourhood cats but it does suggest that providing safe, ethical alternatives can be worthwhile.

Stimulation Without Frustration

Interactive feeding should feel engaging, achievable and enjoyable for the dog. Current thinking around enrichment highlights the importance of matching activities to the individual: their age, physical health, emotional state, learning history and level of arousal, varying it regularly too is important once a dogs got the hang of it.

An activity that is too difficult, overly exciting or prolonged can tip some dogs into frustration or overstimulation rather than helping them settle. Likewise, food toys shouldn’t be used simply to distract dogs from underlying anxiety, fear or difficulty relaxing those concerns deserve careful assessment and tailored behaviour support. In some cases, offering high-effort feeding activities at the wrong moment can actually increase agitation or make it harder for a dog to switch off.

The goal is not to exhaust dogs or mask problems, but to give them appropriate outlets alongside plenty of opportunities for rest, sleep and calm sniffing walks.

How Often Should Dogs Eat?

Many dogs appear to do well when their daily food is divided into at least two meals rather than offered as one large portion, although some individuals may genuinely prefer a single feed. Others seem to thrive on three or four smaller meals spread across the day, particularly when those meals are incorporated into low-pressure enrichment activities. What this looks like will depend on the individual dog and the household routine but mealtimes can become gentle opportunities for engagement rather than something rushed or highly repetitive.

Ideas for Interactive Feeding

Variety helps keep things interesting, and it’s important to keep tasks achievable—especially at first.

  • Scatter feeding: Toss dry food across the kitchen floor, lawn or a quiet patch on a walk (away from other dogs). Snuffle mats work in a similar way and can be homemade.
  • Hide and seek: Place small piles of food around a room or garden. Initially let your dog watch, then gradually hide them out of sight and add a cue like “find it”.
  • Food-dispensing toys: Classics such as Kongs or Squirrel Dudes can be used with loose kibble, soaked and frozen meals, or wet food. Multiple toys can be hidden around the house to extend the search. These can be useful when visitors arrive—provided the dog finds them calming rather than over-arousing.
  • Commercial puzzle feeders: Options like wobblers or activity mats can be great, as long as they don’t push the dog into frustration. If you notice frantic behaviour, vocalising or repeated abandoning of the toy, it’s a sign the challenge may need adjusting.

Homemade Options (Always Supervised)

Many simple household items can be adapted for food-based enrichment, provided they suit the individual dog and are used with supervision. Remove items once empty and discontinue anything that could pose a choking or swallowing risk.

If your dog enjoys shredding or chewing, keep a close eye on them and remove items once empty. Stop completely if there’s any risk of swallowing pieces.

  • Snuffle mats
  • Refilled marrow bones
  • Slightly split tennis balls stuffed with food
  • Cardboard boxes layered with fleece, towels or cartons for dogs who enjoy digging and shredding
  • Blankets or towels rolled with treats between the folds
  • Clean, dry juice cartons with all plastic removed
  • Children’s ball pits with food scattered among the balls
  • Hiding the food bowl or small piles of food for your dog to search for

Some dogs may need a little help at first to understand how food comes out of a new toy. Showing them once or twice is fine, but then allow them to experiment problem-solving is part of what makes these activities mentally engaging.

Put toys away when finished so they stay novel, and balance food-based enrichment with rest, downtime and low-key activities such as sniffy walks.

If you’ve discovered enrichment ideas your dog loves, feel free to share them in the comments. Small changes to daily routines can make life more interesting and more comfortable for many dogs.

If you’d like tailored support for your dog or puppy, you can book a call with me below.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp