Dog Behaviour

Dog play: Do you know what warning signs to watch out for?

I frequently encounter dogs that once socialised well in the park as puppies but started barking and lunging at other dogs as they grew older. Similarly, some dogs initially thrived in doggy day care, only to be banned later for barking or snapping at other dogs.

Understanding the different types of dog play is crucial for managing interactions and preventing conflicts, even with dogs that are familiar with one another.

Always observe other dogs’ body language from a distance before letting a dog approach. Dogs that look away or ignore a dog are not interested in playing or interacting. On play dates, start with a sniffy calm walk together before short play sessions, keeping arousal levels manageable and giving breaks and rest to prevent escalation, do not stand around for long periods, keep moving with the dogs, often dogs or at least one of the dogs will want to leave much sooner than we do.

Avoid play with balls/frisbees or repetitive chasing not only can this lead to injuries, it causes over arousal, conflict and does not hone in to natural behaviours for any dog, dogs would never do this naturally, together they would rough house or tug. This activity only focuses on a part of the predatory chase instinct, leaving the dogs in this heightened state, which can lead to trouble and discourage natural behaviour with one another. However, that’s a topic for another blog!

Overly excitable dogs, often have other things that need to be addressed in their life to help calm their interactions with other dogs however they also can be over the top as they are finding the situation too much.

A friendly dog should not be allowed to run up to a nervous or on lead dog.

Healthy Play:

  • Play is reciprocal, with a give-and-take dynamic.
  • Chase games are balanced, with dogs taking turns.
  • Dogs have relaxed, sometimes “goofy” body language.

A “play bow” might indicate readiness to play, especially among familiar dogs, but it can also be a way to try and increase distance from another dog, sometimes accompanied by barking which is misunderstood by many.

Cautionary Play:

  • Intervene before it escalates.
  • Stop play if one dog is consistently picked on or more than one dog gangs up on another.
  • Prevent tugging or dragging by the collar, harness, or body parts.
  • Interrupt if one dog tries to hide or escape from mismatched chasing.
  • One sided chase, perform a consent test by holding the chaser to see if the other dog still wants to play.

If there are multiple dogs and one of the dogs are barking at the other dogs that are playing or trying to get in between. Its likely the play is too much and the dog is trying to calm the situations before conflict arises, sadly a high percentage of these dogs, are often the dogs that are kicked out of day care when in fact they are trying to keep the peace, they are not the fun police. If a dog is the chaser, recall them positively; if they don’t respond, keep them on a lead unless they can reliably come when called.

If a dog is being targeted, intervene or ask the other owner to intervene or remove the dog from the situation, rewarding them for walking away from conflict. Consistent issues might lead a dog to use aggression as a defence and start to not enjoy the presence of other dogs.

This is why it’s important that day care centres and walkers manage interaction carefully and the dogs should be supervised well. All of the areas they are kept in have comfortable rest areas inside and out, calming enrichment that include sensory plants and outlets for natural behaviour. Bare baron spaces or with limited items and flat field space can be under stimulating, lead to pacing and confinement stress and can cause over the top play with other dogs, unbalancing the group dynamics.

Unacceptable Play:

  • Watch for neck or body biting and grabbing.
  • Prevent barking in another dog’s face.
  • Humping often indicates the play has gone on too long or they are trying to calm another dog down.
  • Head-over-shoulders stance is confrontational and should be interrupted.
  • Body slamming and pinning another dog to the ground are unacceptable.
  • Prevent dogs from forming intimidating groups around another dog.
  • Air snaps indicate a desire for more distance and should be heeded.
  • Avoid unsupervised play.

In any of these scenarios, intervene or recall the dog if play becomes inappropriate or if other owners don’t control their dogs. Reward the dog for returning to you.

If a dog cannot be reliably recalled, use a long-lead and practise recall with a harness. After recalling a dog from play, allow them to calm down before resuming. If an incident occurs, limit further interactions and consider ending the walk early.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Dog Socialisation

There is a strong expectation in society that dogs should get along with every dog they meet.

Many people believe that socialisation means exposing puppies and dogs to as many other dogs as possible puppy parties, dog meet-ups, dog walkers and lots of time playing in parks.

The idea is that the more dogs they meet, the better socialised they will be.

But the reality is far more complex than that.

Dogs are individuals. Just like people, they have preferences, personalities and limits. Some enjoy interacting with lots of dogs, others prefer a small circle of familiar companions, and some simply aren’t that interested in socialising with unfamiliar dogs at all.

Unfortunately, the pressure we place on dogs to interact with every dog they meet can sometimes create the very problems we are trying to avoid.

Every Dog’s Experience of Socialisation Is Different

You could take five puppies to the same socialisation class and each one could have a completely different experience.

That experience depends on many factors:

  • their general emotional state
  • how they felt on the day
  • the behaviour of the other dogs
  • how their guardian handled the interaction
  • the guardian’s emotional state
  • whether anything startled them during the session
  • stress they may have experienced in the days beforehand

All of these things influence how a dog learns to feel about other dogs.

Two dogs can leave the same class with completely different feelings about social interaction.

The “Let Them Sort It Out” Myth

One piece of advice that still circulates widely is that dogs should simply be left to “sort it out themselves”.

In my experience, this can be hugely unfair, especially for puppies who are still learning about the world of dogs and the many different breeds and personalities they might encounter.

If a puppy repeatedly goes to the park and has unpleasant or overwhelming interactions, they are unlikely to grow up feeling relaxed around other dogs.

Using older dogs to “teach puppies manners” can also be problematic. Older dogs may be in pain, may have less energy, or simply may not want to interact anymore. Expecting them to constantly correct younger dogs puts them in a difficult position.

And what about the dog who has previously been attacked? Should they simply be expected to tolerate another dog charging up to them and ignoring their signals?

What I Often See in Parks

As a dog trainer and behaviourist working one-to-one with clients, I spend a lot of time in places where dogs and their guardians socialise.

This might be local parks such as St Mary’s Park, woodland walks, busy places like Ruislip Lido or Rickmansworth Aquadrome, country parks such as Black Park, Langley Park and Denham Country Park, large green spaces like Horsenden Hill, or simply everyday walks around the block.

One thing that becomes very clear is that there is a huge and varied dog-owning community.

But I also regularly see dogs who run up to every dog they encounter, whether that dog is on lead or off lead. These dogs are often highly aroused and may struggle to read other dogs’ body language.

Sometimes they bark in another dog’s face, repeatedly try to initiate interaction, or continue pestering even when the other dog is trying to disengage.

Often these dogs genuinely want to interact they just haven’t learned how to do so in a way that other dogs find comfortable.

When Dogs Feel Pressured to Socialise

When a dog feels overwhelmed or pressured during interactions, they will often try to diffuse the situation rather than escalate it.

Many guardians mistake these behaviours as signs that the dog is relaxed or playful, when in reality they can be signs of appeasement or stress.

Some examples include:

Fawning behaviours

  • Rolling onto their back
  • Excessive licking of another dog’s face
  • Crouching or lowering their body
  • Rapid tail wagging with a tense body

These behaviours are often attempts to signal “I’m not a threat” or “please don’t hurt me.”

Fooling about behaviours

Some dogs will suddenly become very silly or exaggerated in their movements bouncing, spinning, or acting overly playful. While this can sometimes look funny or entertaining to us, it can actually be a way of diffusing tension in a situation they find uncomfortable.

Dogs are incredibly skilled at trying to avoid conflict.

But if these signals are repeatedly ignored, the dog may eventually feel they have no option but to escalate to growling, barking or snapping.

When Dogs Try to Disengage

Dogs will often try to politely opt out of an interaction before things escalate.

They might:

  • look away
  • turn their body away
  • walk away
  • start sniffing the ground
  • move behind their guardian

These are all ways of saying “I’m not interested right now.” Or they are indicating for the other a dog to approach calmer.

If another dog continues to pursue them, that interaction can quickly become stressful.

In these situations it’s absolutely okay to increase distance and continue walking. You can also ask the other guardian to call their dog.

Advocating for your dog is part of keeping them safe.

Why Street Dogs Inspired This Blog

One reason I wanted to write this blog is the increasing number of street dogs I now see as clients.

Many of these dogs previously lived on the streets, where being able to communicate effectively with other dogs is essential for survival. Injuries or illness could be life-threatening, so avoiding conflict becomes incredibly important.

As a result, many street dogs are excellent communicators. They are often very skilled at reading subtle body language and defusing situations early.

When these dogs arrive here, they can initially find some of our pet dogs confusing and over stimulated, particularly those who rush over without reading signals.

This can sometimes make the street dog appear unsociable, when in reality they are simply navigating a very different social environment.

What I Encourage Instead

The interactions I aim for with the clients I work with are simple and relaxed.

Dogs approach, exchange information, have a brief sniff and then continue their walk.

Short, polite interactions.

Much like how we might briefly say hello to a neighbour as we pass them on the street.

Standing in a group in the middle of a park while dogs interact for long periods can often lead to rising arousal levels. When you step back and observe closely, you will often notice that at least one dog would actually prefer to move on.

Exploring the environment, sniffing and moving through the world at their own pace is often far more enriching for dogs than extended social interactions.

Want to Learn More About Play?

Dog play is a huge topic in itself, and understanding what healthy play looks like can make a big difference.

I’ve written a separate blog that explores dog play in more detail, including what to watch for and when to interrupt.

A Simple Goal

Short.

Polite.

Relaxed interactions.

That’s what most dogs actually need..

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.