Tag: Puppy

Dog Behaviour

When Getting a Dog Feels Harder Than You Expected

Joanne Hinds

The struggles people do not talk about when having a dog

Bringing a dog into your life is often portrayed as joyful, healing, and wholesome and it can be however what we don’t talk about enough is the emotional crash that can come shortly after.

The sleepless nights. The constant worry. The guilt of not feeling the way you thought you would. For many new dog guardians, this reality hits hard and it’s rarely discussed.

This blog is for those in the thick of it: feeling overwhelmed, questioning their decision, or simply exhausted from trying to “get it right.” Let’s talk about why it feels so hard and why that doesn’t mean you’re failing.

The hope: Dogs as emotional support

Many people bring a puppy or rescue dog into their lives hoping for emotional comfort especially those navigating anxiety, depression, grief, or isolation. Dogs are often seen as a way to:

  • Get outside more
  • Build a routine
  • Ease feelings of loneliness
  • Provide a sense of purpose

But here’s the truth: in the beginning, a dog can amplify anxiety before it soothes it.

What often happens is this: in trying to provide the best for your new dog, you find yourself spiralling into stress. Constantly questioning your choices, reading every article, googling everything and watching video after video trying to do everything “right.” And when it still feels hard? The guilt creeps in.

Puppy blues and rescue dog guilt

There’s a name for this: the Puppy Blues or Rescue Dog Blues.

And it’s a very real emotional crash that many people experience in the first days, weeks, or even months after bringing a dog home.

You might feel:

  • Overwhelmed, anxious and unprepared
  • Exhausted from lack of sleep or relentless demands
  • Disconnected from your new dog
  • Frustrated that things aren’t “clicking”
  • Guilty for not enjoying it

This doesn’t make you a bad dog guardian. It makes you human and deeply caring.

Your anxiety and worry are signs of nurture, of wanting to get it right. Often, these very traits make people more attuned to their dog’s body language and needs.

But it’s also about balance. When care tips into hypervigilance or self-doubt, it can become emotionally draining for you, and for your dog.

The misconception: “Dogs fix anxiety”

It’s true that dogs can positively influence mental health there’s a growing body of evidence showing how their presence can lower cortisol, ease loneliness, and boost routine.

However that benefit doesn’t always show up straight away. Especially with puppies or newly rescued dogs, the early stages are intense:

  • Teething
  • Sleep deprivation
  • Toilet training
  • Socialisation pressures (“I need to do everything right in the first 16 weeks!”)
  • Managing fear or reactivity, growling, snapping and in some dogs biting

All while you’re also adjusting physically, emotionally, socially.

Sometimes, anxiety gets worse before it gets better.

Due to strict rehoming criteria in many UK-based rescues, people often turn to overseas organisations particularly in Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe. While these adoptions are often well-intended and full of heart, they can come with unique challenges.

Many of these dogs have:

  • Grown up as free-roaming street dogs
  • Had little to no experience living in homes
  • Spent long periods in shelter kennels
  • Missed out on early positive socialisation

Integrating them into UK life with leads, closed doors, traffic, visitors, and strict routines can be incredibly stressful for both the dog and the family. Without proper support, these dogs often bounce back into rescue, caught in a heartbreaking loop.

There are ethical rescues out there doing brilliant work, both in the UK and abroad but it’s vital to do your research. Choose a rescue that:

  • Offers post-adoption behavioural support
  • Matches dogs to homes carefully
  • Understands the background and likely challenges of the dogs
  • Will be honest about what the dog needs, not just what people want to hear

How human anxiety affects dogs and why that’s okay

There is a growing body of research showing how human mental health influences dog behaviour. Dogs are incredibly sensitive to our emotions they may mirror stress, become unsettled by unpredictability, or even change how they respond to training.

But that doesn’t mean you are to blame. It means:

  • You matter in this picture too
  • Your wellbeing is part of the process
  • Self-compassion is a crucial piece of helping your dog feel safe

It’s important to be aware of how your emotional state might be influencing your dog’s behaviour. Recognising this isn’t about blame it’s about understanding the bigger picture, and getting the support you may need to help you feel more confident, grounded, and capable.

In fact, people with anxiety often make brilliant dog guardians. You may notice small shifts in body language that others miss. You may advocate fiercely for your dog’s comfort. You may prioritise consent, choice, and ethical training.

Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength. Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength.

Why early support is everything

Many people wait until they’re at breaking point before asking for help often out of pride, fear of judgement, or the belief they should “just know” how to cope, early support can prevent small worries from becoming large ones.

You don’t have to do this alone.

Every dog is different. Every life stage brings something new. Even experienced owners and dog professionals can be thrown and that’s okay.

As a behaviourist and trainer, my role is about far more than sit/stay.

It’s about helping you breathe again. Helping you feel less alone. Helping you feel like you’ve got this because with the right help, you do.

Build your support system

You deserve support, too.

Whether that’s:

  • Friends or family you can offload to
  • Ethical, compassionate trainers and behaviourists
  • Doggy daycare or walkers who understand your dog’s needs
  • Online or local groups where you can be real about how hard it feels

Creating your own support circle doesn’t just benefit your mental health it increases the likelihood of long-term success for your dog too.

Asking for help doesn’t mean you’ve failed. It means you care enough to try.

If you are still struggling it is okay

Let’s say this clearly, because it matters:

If you are. not coping, that doesn’t make you weak or heartless.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, it becomes clear that you and your dog are not the right match emotionally, practically, or environmentally. Rehoming or returning a dog is never easy, but it can sometimes be the kindest option for everyone involved.

If you reach that point, please:

  • Don’t suffer in silence
  • Reach out to the rescue or a qualified behaviour professional
  • Work with organisations who will put your dog’s welfare and emotional needs first
  • Take time to find a rescue that understands your dog’s breed, background, or type and offers ethical behaviour support to help you succeed

This is not failure it’s responsible and compassionate decision-making, however try not to make a decision like this when you’re in the middle of emotional overwhelm. Take a breath, reach out for support, and make the choice from a grounded place.

Final Thoughts: You’re Not Failing. You’re Finding Your Way.

If you’re reading this with tears in your eyes, feeling like you are in over your head please hear this:

You are not alone.

You are not failing.

You are not broken.

You are doing something big, new, and incredibly emotional. It’s normal for it to feel messy and hard at first.

With the right support, the chaos quiets. The relationship grows. The joy returns not because things are perfect, but because you’ve allowed space for grace, for growth, and for being human.

If you’re struggling with your new dog or puppy and need compassionate, practical help, I offer behaviour and training support that’s tailored to both ends of the lead.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Food and Training: Are We Over-Restricting Our Dogs?

Joanne Hinds

Eating food and drinking water are fundamental needs that every human, animal, and species is entitled to. Yet, when it comes to dogs, we often place restrictions on these basic necessities asking them to wait, building excessive durations before they can eat, or managing their food intake so rigidly that it’s only allowed during training sessions. Is this fair? No wonder we see so many dogs with eating problems, resource guarding issues or nutritional deficiencies.

The Labrador Dilemma

Take Labradors, for example a breed famously labelled as “greedy” or willing to eat anything. While studies have shown that some Labradors possess a gene mutation that impacts their ability to feel satiated, we must also consider whether human actions play a role. Labrador owners, concerned about the breed’s tendency to become overweight, often restrict food or opt for low-calorie diets. These foods, high in carbohydrates but lacking in fulfilling properties, may leave dogs perpetually hungry.

Are we contributing to the problem by creating environments where food is restricted, over-managed, or insufficiently nourishing? Is it truly hunger caused by genetics, or is it a response to human-imposed limitations?

Food as a Training Tool

Using food in training is common and effective, and I use food and play as rewards too. But I ensure we never use a dog’s meal for training purposes and will give them food without asking them to do something every time and will give them a snack or their meal when I am eating as well, you wouldn’t eat in front of someone else without offering them something too. Dogs deserve to enjoy their meals without conditions attached, we just have to ensure the food we do use for training is accounted for as part of their daily calorie needs.

I focus my training on safety and building positive associations. I do generally reserve special foods something they love for training requirement to keep it exciting and rewarding which I still question my self about however I want to ensure I do not infringe on their basic right to eat freely.

Drawing Parallels with Children

Imagine if we treated children the same way we treat dogs when it comes to food. What if children had to “earn” their meals or were denied food for not meeting certain expectations? Social services would undoubtedly intervene, recognising such practices as neglectful and unethical. Yet, with dogs, this level of control is not only accepted but encouraged in many training circles.

This dynamic raises questions about the ethics of using food as leverage. Could this approach contribute to issues such as fussiness, food refusal, or digestive problems in dogs? Some dogs go days without eating or are spoon-fed or hand-fed by anxious owners. Is it possible that our own anxiety around food is perpetuating these issues?

Balancing Food and Training Needs

Of course, dogs must adapt to human lifestyles and societal expectations. Food is a practical and often essential tool for training behaviours that help dogs navigate our world safely and appropriately. But we must be mindful:

  • Are the behaviours we’re training necessary for their well-being and to keep them and others safe or are they imposed solely to fit human convenience or entertainment.
  • Respecting their autonomy: Dogs, like all living beings, have their own preferences and needs. While food can be a powerful motivator, we should also respect their space and allow them to make choices. When we constantly use food to guide their actions, we risk diminishing their ability to make independent decisions and express natural behaviour.
  • The effect of food-based training on their relationship with us: Dogs form bonds based on trust and connection, not just what they can get in exchange for performing tasks. If food becomes the primary currency for every interaction, we risk shifting the relationship to one based on transactions rather than genuine companionship.
  • Not overshadowing other forms of enrichment: Training is important, but it’s equally crucial to consider the other ways we enrich our dogs’ lives. Mental stimulation, social interactions, physical exercise, and opportunities for play all contribute to a dog’s well-being. If food is the main tool we use, we may neglect these other important aspects of a dog’s development and happiness.


A Call to Rethink

As dog professionals and dog owners, it’s time to reconsider our approach to food and training. Dogs are not here to entertain us or live in ways entirely contrary to their instincts. They deserve to have their basic needs and natural behaviours where possible met without excessive restriction or exploitation.

Let’s aim to build confidence and trust through mindful practices that respect their nature. By focusing on safety, positive associations, and rewards that are meaningful yet balanced, we can create training experiences that enhance our dogs’ well-being without compromising their right to simply enjoy being dogs.

By rethinking how we use food, we can help dogs live healthier, happier lives—free from unnecessary stress and anxiety around their most basic need.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Dog Behaviour

Puppy and Adult Dog Introduction

Joanne Hinds

Bringing a new puppy into your home is an exciting time, but it’s important to ensure a smooth introduction with your adult dog. A careful, step-by-step process can help both dogs feel comfortable, safe, and ready to bond. The following short guide provides practical tips to manage their first meetings and build a positive relationship between your new puppy and your resident adult dog.

Pre-arrival

Ask the breeder to provide a blanket the puppy has slept with to bring home (if you can get this in advance even better) you can introduce this to your resident dog to let them sniff and reward them straight after, to start pairing it with something positive do this a number of times. Take something of your older dogs with you when you collect your puppy that your resident dog has laid on, when you go to pick puppy up so they can start getting used to one another scent, this is called scent swapping.

Puppy safe space

Ensure you have prepared a safe space for your puppy, a puppy-proofed area with baby gates or a pen. When you get home ensure the older dog is in a separate room at first with someone if possible. Place any familiar items from the breeder in the pen before your puppy explores it. Let the puppy investigate their safe area first with the adult dog in a different room, letting them process, this lets the puppy know where to find their bed, water, food (if they haven’t eaten yet, remove food before the introduction), and toilet mat first.

Have one person sit in the pen with the puppy, letting them climb on their lap if needed, but it’s important to remain relaxed and calm to avoid showing any concern, no over fussing puppy.

Take something an item that smells of the puppy into the older dog and let them sniff the item and then give them a tasty treat.

Bring the adult dogs in on a lead so they do not charge at the pen and frighten the puppy, let them investigate in their own time. If the puppy panics have the older dog at a slightly further distance.

This setup allows the dogs to see and sniff each other through the pen without direct contact first. Reward calm behavior with verbal praise.

This gradual introduction gives the adult dog space to retreat if needed, while also allowing the puppy to adjust if they feel unsure.

Watch Body Language

Look for signs of stress (e.g., lip licking, yawning, turning away, stiff body language, cowering, bowing and barking) or playfulness, loose body (e.g., wagging tails or play bows). End the interaction if either dog seems particularly stressed or uncomfortable (e.g teeth bearing going at one another in a threatening manner). Observe how they interact through the pen initially.

Out of pen introduction

Once you have observed behaviour and feel they are relaxed with one another.

Allow short periods of supervised interaction indoors, gradually increasing their time together as they become more comfortable.

Avoid Resource Guarding

Remove toys, food, and chews during initial interactions to prevent disputes. Feed the puppy and adult dog separately in completely different rooms.

Avoid over-fussing either dog—there’s no need to overcompensate by giving the adult dog extra attention.

Respect Both Dogs’ Needs

Do not force interaction. Allow the adult dog to set boundaries. It’s normal for an adult dog to correct the puppy with a growl or snap if the puppy becomes too boisterous.

Provide Escape Routes

Ensure the adult dog has access to a quiet space where they can retreat if they need a break. The puppy should also have a safe area to relax and decompress.

Play

Play should be balanced see the signs to watch out for

Be Patient

The relationship may take time to develop. Consistency and calm management are key to fostering a positive bond between the puppy and the adult dog.

Dog Behaviour

Dog play: Do you know what warning signs to watch out for?

Joanne Hinds

I frequently encounter dogs that once socialised well in the park as puppies but started barking and lunging at other dogs as they grew older. Similarly, some dogs initially thrived in doggy day care, only to be banned later for barking or snapping at other dogs.

Understanding the different types of dog play is crucial for managing interactions and preventing conflicts, even with dogs that are familiar with one another.

Always observe other dogs’ body language from a distance before letting a dog approach. Dogs that look away or ignore a dog are not interested in playing or interacting. On play dates, start with a sniffy calm walk together before short play sessions, keeping arousal levels manageable and giving breaks and rest to prevent escalation, do not stand around for long periods, keep moving with the dogs, often dogs or at least one of the dogs will want to leave much sooner than we do.

Avoid play with balls/frisbees or repetitive chasing not only can this lead to injuries, it causes over arousal, conflict and does not hone in to natural behaviours for any dog, dogs would never do this naturally, together they would rough house or tug. This activity only focuses on a part of the predatory chase instinct, leaving the dogs in this heightened state, which can lead to trouble and discourage natural behaviour with one another. However, that’s a topic for another blog!

Overly excitable dogs, often have other things that need to be addressed in their life to help calm their interactions with other dogs however they also can be over the top as they are finding the situation too much.

A friendly dog should not be allowed to run up to a nervous or on lead dog.

Healthy Play:

  • Play is reciprocal, with a give-and-take dynamic.
  • Chase games are balanced, with dogs taking turns.
  • Dogs have relaxed, sometimes “goofy” body language.

A “play bow” might indicate readiness to play, especially among familiar dogs, but it can also be a way to try and increase distance from another dog, sometimes accompanied by barking which is misunderstood by many.

Cautionary Play:

  • Intervene before it escalates.
  • Stop play if one dog is consistently picked on or more than one dog gangs up on another.
  • Prevent tugging or dragging by the collar, harness, or body parts.
  • Interrupt if one dog tries to hide or escape from mismatched chasing.
  • One sided chase, perform a consent test by holding the chaser to see if the other dog still wants to play.

If there are multiple dogs and one of the dogs are barking at the other dogs that are playing or trying to get in between. Its likely the play is too much and the dog is trying to calm the situations before conflict arises, sadly a high percentage of these dogs, are often the dogs that are kicked out of day care when in fact they are trying to keep the peace, they are not the fun police. If a dog is the chaser, recall them positively; if they don’t respond, keep them on a lead unless they can reliably come when called.

If a dog is being targeted, intervene or ask the other owner to intervene or remove the dog from the situation, rewarding them for walking away from conflict. Consistent issues might lead a dog to use aggression as a defence and start to not enjoy the presence of other dogs.

This is why it’s important that day care centres and walkers manage interaction carefully and the dogs should be supervised well. All of the areas they are kept in have comfortable rest areas inside and out, calming enrichment that include sensory plants and outlets for natural behaviour. Bare baron spaces or with limited items and flat field space can be under stimulating, lead to pacing and confinement stress and can cause over the top play with other dogs, unbalancing the group dynamics.

Unacceptable Play:

  • Watch for neck or body biting and grabbing.
  • Prevent barking in another dog’s face.
  • Humping often indicates the play has gone on too long or they are trying to calm another dog down.
  • Head-over-shoulders stance is confrontational and should be interrupted.
  • Body slamming and pinning another dog to the ground are unacceptable.
  • Prevent dogs from forming intimidating groups around another dog.
  • Air snaps indicate a desire for more distance and should be heeded.
  • Avoid unsupervised play.

In any of these scenarios, intervene or recall the dog if play becomes inappropriate or if other owners don’t control their dogs. Reward the dog for returning to you.

If a dog cannot be reliably recalled, use a long-lead and practise recall with a harness. After recalling a dog from play, allow them to calm down before resuming. If an incident occurs, limit further interactions and consider ending the walk early.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Dog Behaviour

Are you measuring your dog’s behaviour or your progress against others?

Joanne Hinds

Are you treating your dog fairly, or should you adjust your expectations?

Here’s why you should stop.

Now, I understand this is easier said than done; it’s tricky. Take it from someone who finds herself at times comparing against all the amazing dog behaviourists and trainers out there. However, I must emphasize that while it’s good to be inspired, it’s not healthy to compare and doesn’t bring any benefits. That’s why it’s crucial not to compare your dog with another. I know it’s human nature, and we tend to do this in our personal lives, not to mention on our training journey with our dogs. The trouble arises because when we compare our dog’s skills and progress with another or ourselves with another owner or professional, it does us an injustice and can significantly impact our progress and relationship.

Even if you’re comparing your dog to another say a previous one or a dog of the same breed. Firstly if it’s an older dog that has past and you have a puppy, you may not truly remember the puppy or adolescent stages with the original dog or perhaps your children have all grown up and moved out and they were the ones that were entertaining the older dog when they were a puppy most of the time.

If for example you have a spaniel and you compare it against say someone walking their German Shepherd down the road, there’s a massive difference in their walking style. Spaniels cover ground when working as gun dogs in a zig zag type fashion, German Shepherds tend to sheep along perimeter lines, so is this a realistic comparison? If you are watching another dog that appears to be behaving how can you be sure it is not doing so because it is scared, or has an underlying health condition, or is that just their nature.

Dogs have different learning styles just like us, for example some focus on movement so if whilst teaching you are constantly moving your hands around, this makes it difficult for the dog to know what to focus on. But clear visual signals can help. Other dogs respond better to verbal cues, there are even dogs that learn from watching and then copying.

Researching what your dog was bred for can help you understand their learning style better but each dog has their own preference too. Dogs also learn at different rates, some get frustrated easy so we need to break tasks down, others get distracted easily so we need to keep motivation high or train initially somewhere quiet. Many dogs can be one step a head and can end up learning something different than we expected. This happens to dog trainers and behaviourists too so you are not alone.

As a professional I always focus on the dog in front of me and it’s vital we go at that dogs pace. 

If you have been working hard with your dog it doesn’t mean that you’re doing something wrong, dogs are not blank slates. Even if you get your puppy at eight weeks they’ve had eight weeks of learning history before getting to you, before that there’s hereditary and genetic factors and even the stress of the mum during pregnancy will impact how your dog is doing with the world around them, which in turn impacts learning results.


Sadly we are in a society that wants quick fixes for everything, however the instant solutions you might observe on tv or social media usually have an aversive or punishing component, which has a detrimental effect long term on your dogs emotional state and can lead to further unwanted and sometimes dangerous behaviour. 

When you’re comparing your dog what happens is you stop listening, you stop listening to when your dog is not comfortable with something or is finding the training difficult or is not getting it. Therefore frustration and even anger can start to arise.

If we take lead walking, for example, there are so many factors influencing your dog walking beside you on lead. Take pace for instance, some dogs cannot walk at the pace we are walking at. If you think about someone who walks slower than you naturally you walk faster and it’s hard to maintain their pace. If your dog is anxious they are going to want to move quickly in an environment, they may sniff the environment briefly and want to get back to their safe place as soon as possible. There’s so much they’re trying to take in and if they’re scared they’re gonna wanna walk quicker. There are multiple reasons why dogs pull.

What ever you are trying to train I urge you to try and take a step back and take one day at a time with your training, watch the dog in front of you and be kind to your self. Be mindful of how you are feeling and what mood you are in, dogs are sensitive to our mood states and it will affect their behaviour. It’s good to sometimes just spending time with your dog without doing anything specific, spending quality time without constant training. If you’ve just had a stressful day at work and then decided to take your dog out on a walk and you are still working on lead walking you might find your patience is shorter. You are not setting your dog up for success for learning and you’re putting yourself under pressure so either don’t take your dog out that day, choose a different time or just use this time to simply enjoy your dogs company.

Consider where you are getting your behaviour or training support from. Researching advice off of the internet can be detrimental to your success and will put your techniques into conflict, causing your dog to be more confused.

There is not a one size fits all approach to Dog Behaviour and Training, despite what you might see on TikTok, Facebook, Snapchat, or other media platforms. That’s why seeking guidance from a professional who can work with you individually, understanding your environment, your dog, your needs, and expectations, is more effective. They can help you set and achieve goals, considering the pace of both you and your dog.

Take a moment to step back, observe your actions from an outsider’s perspective, and if needed, seek support. Even a phone advice session with a trainer or behaviourist can provide valuable insights into what might not be working.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

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Dog Behaviour

Dog Equipment

Joanne Hinds

This page is designed to quickly access some of the products that I have used and often talked about during my sessions, the content on this page will be forever changing as new and improved products come on the market. These products are my preferences but all people and dogs are different and what suits one may not suit another.

Select images for further details

Silicone Treat Pouch – I find this dog treat pouch from Dexus really useful, I don’t clip it on my belt as I do not want the dogs I am working with fixated on it but it’s excellent to stick in your pocket and to get the treats out easily and most importantly quickly. It is really hygienic too really easy to wash. No more smelly treat bags. Available in many colours.


Double Ended Dog Lead – I love this lead by Mekuti, I have used it for many years and have not gone for another. The softex material it is made out of, means it’s kind on hands even with the strongest of pullers. This lead comes in two thicknesses and 3 lengths 2m, 2.5m (my general lead) and 3m. This can be used on a two point harness or just as a longer lead as you can turn one end into a handle my favourite way of using it. The same as other double ended leads you can change the length of the lead too by clipping to different points on the lead.

Recall Lead – If you want a reliable recall i.e. your dog coming back when you need them too. You need one of these, you need to be 100% sure they will come back before letting them off. If you start off with them off lead and then they learn not to respond to your come request you will have a dog that rehearses not coming back to you because they can. Again like the Mekuti lead this is made of softex material kinder to your hands. It comes in different lengths but I work with the 10m length one. Long lines should be attached to a harness and never a collar they can cause severe damage to the neck.


Blue-9 Balance Harness Buckle Neck – Designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harness™ has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.

Perfect Fit Fleece Harness – Another great harness which is fleece lined making it more comfortable for the Dog especially with short fur or delicate skin. Good for the dogs that get cold out there but be careful in the summer as this harness can make some dogs sweat and if your dog suffers from skin problems the extra moisture could make it worse. What’s really good about this harness is it comes in three pieces which means it can be perfectly fitted to your dogs shape and size and you can send back the individual pieces to get the sizing right.

Perfect Fit dog harnes blue and black three piece

Safety Link – Although not specifically designed for this purpose I find this halti link useful for attaching a dogs collar to their harness especially for the Houdini types. Simply slip the looped end through the harness closest to your dogs collar and then use the clip end on your dogs collar ring. This comes in different sizes.

Freedom Handle – I use this in conjunction with the double ended lead for clients that like to have a handle, these are great material too soft on the hands.


Settle Mat – I love this although it’s labeled as a crate mat, they make great settle mats, they can be rolled up to take with you to friends, pubs, cafes, restaurants and can double up as a shallow snuffle mat, anti slip backing and washable cover.

Dog Water Bottle – It’s important to always ‪remember to take out water for dogs in all weather they get thirsty in the cold too! Some dogs like dirty water, others have no other option. This effects training mouths will be dry causing reluctance to take treats & then the treats & what your are teaching is no longer rewarding.‬ This water bottle is a great design with a hook to take with you where ever you go. Be mindful to always introduce them at home first, a new object forced towards them can be frightening and prevent them from drinking.

Muzzle – I believe every dog should be trained to wear a muzzle and like having it on, yes this is possible. All dogs have the potential to bite especially those in pain. It’s much better to train a dog to enjoy wearing one, rather than having to force it on when your dog may already be stressed after a road traffic accident for example. Muzzles are used for many different reasons these days even for dogs that constantly pick up and eat things from the floor when out on walks. It is vital you go for the plastic or biothane basket type muzzles as the material ones mean dogs cannot pant and usually dogs wearing them are stressed and need too. The Ultra Muzzle or Buma allows them to pant, drink and even has an area that allows dogs to take treats.

Car Harness – It is important to have your dog/puppy safely restrained in a car for your safety as well as your dogs. There are many harnesses that are out there but you must always go for one that is actually crash tested. The ezydog car harness is one option.

My Utility Jacket – I often get asked about the jacket I wear because people are surprised the equipment I can be carrying on me. There are so many pockets on this jacket I feel like the Mary Poppins of the dog world. I carry my long line, leads, freedom handle, dog toys, Poo bags, business cards and more in it, this is one of my best buys.

Mud Daddy – Great to wash your dogs paws off but ensure you get them used to it positively first and excellent for washing muddy boots. I keep this in my car. It also comes in useful for trips to the beach, washing sand off etc

Bed – For a dog to be comfortable their beds should be big enough to do a superman pose in, so legs stretched out fully in any direction the average pet dog has a bed that’s too small or not comfortable. This can also affect gait and posture. Comfort is important too there are a number of types of beds working out what your dog likes is not always easy but these Barney Beds or Big Barker beds often go down well.

Rugs – This might appear random I know but the average households these days have floors that are too slippery for dogs that cause niggling injuries where they have to make micro adjustments to stabilise this can bring on early arthritis and also cause injury and anxiety as the dog is unable to relax. This rugs have a really good anti slip bottom that is good on a large number of floor types.

If you are getting a puppy go to my puppy shopping list


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Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

A Walk to Remember

Joanne Hinds

How stimulating is your dogs walk?

Is it round the block or the same park once a day?

Do you always take the same route?

Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?

The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.

Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.

When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.

Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker

Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.

Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.

A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!

Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.

You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.

Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!

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