Tag: pets

Grey and brown long haired chihuahua being carried near a road close up
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up and Carried?

Joanne Hinds

Many years ago, I started writing a book called Little Dog Syndrome. I sent it to a publisher who, to my surprise, was interested but life got in the way. I’ve recently revisited it, with the intention of continuing to work on it after finishing my Rethinking Lead Walking course for professionals. (Note to self: I have a tendency to start lots of projects and not finish them… something I’m consciously working on this year.)

I’m actually really glad I left this until now, because my thoughts and opinions have changed. The title was never my philosophy; it was more of a hook, reflecting how small dogs are so often described. Even back then, I was writing from a mindful place, considering how differently smaller dogs are raised, handled, and managed.

One of the areas I wrote about was picking dogs up and carrying them and this is where my thinking has evolved the most.

Picking Up Small Dogs: Why I Used to Avoid It

For a long time, I believed picking up and carrying small dogs should be avoided wherever possible, other than for essential husbandry, grooming, veterinary visits through cooperative care, or safety for example, if a dog hasn’t been trained around doors and you can’t shut them into another room.

I felt that frequent carrying often reduced confidence rather than building it.

In some situations, I still think that can be true particularly when dogs are picked up suddenly, randomly, without warning, or without any choice.

Dogs don’t lift one another. Being removed from the ground can feel startling, disorientating or frightening, especially if it happens repeatedly and unpredictably. Over time, that can create handling sensitivities, anxiety, or defensive behaviour.

How Meeting Mila the Chihuahua Changed My Perspective

My thinking began to shift initially with some uncertainty, and then changed much more after meeting my good friend’s Chihuahua, Mila, when she was just a puppy.

In 30 years, I had never worked with a Chihuahua puppy. I rarely saw them in puppy classes they’re not generally brought and I mostly met them later as behaviour cases involving handling issues, barking, growling, snapping and biting.

Meeting Mila was a real eye-opener.

There is a lot of discussion around picking dogs up when they are scared. I see many caregivers doing this and I also see many small dogs actively asking to be picked up or carried. For some individuals, being lifted genuinely functions as a place of safety. Sometimes the world is a pretty overwhelming place when you’re looking at it from ground level.

Why busy environments are different for tiny dogs

Mila is now an adult, fully grown, and still incredibly tiny. Her legs are as thin as my little finger. She walks alongside her caregiver, but in busy environments she can easily be missed, accidentally stepped on, or rolled over by wheels prams, scooters, bikes, trolleys.

Don’t get me wrong she is swift, nimble and can move when she needs too, she lives with three children but there is still a much higher level of physical risk for dogs her size moving through busy human spaces.

She is confident and pretty resilient, though still alert and cautious, particularly of feet and sometimes hands. I can completely understand why, in busy environments, picking her up or carrying her can be necessary and protective. I do it myself. If a large, exuberant dog barrelled into Mila, she could be significantly hurt.

That context matters.

That said, I do think there are times when we pick small dogs up too quickly before anything has actually happened potentially creating worry before the dog is truly concerned.

At the same time, I can absolutely see why caregivers do it… because they care.

This balance between protecting and over-protecting is one of the hardest things to get right.

A theme echoed by many professionals in discussion was that carrying should not quietly become the default coping strategy. The long-term aim for most dogs is still to feel safe in their own bodies on the ground, with their caregiver as a secure base they can move towards not something they are always lifted away from.

Facial bites, hugging and why choice is critical

One common issue I see is dogs being picked up randomly to be hugged and kissed often one of the main causes of facial bites.

This can start to make dogs feel uncomfortable, this is not normal dog behaviour and actually can be mistaken for a challenge when you think of how dogs lean over one another’s necks sometimes before a fight.

Allowing people to approach and stroke a dog when they are in your arms is, in my view, a no-no. The dog has no choice, signals are often misread, and that lack of agency is frequently why dogs bite: they’re unable to move away, it’s intimidating, and hands can be really annoying.

Small dogs are also more likely to be scooped up by strangers adults and children alike often without warning. Repeated experiences like this understandably teach dogs that approaching humans are unpredictable and threatening, and they may escalate their behaviour to protect themselves.

Teaching predictable, consent-based lifting to dogs

I strongly believe there should be clear cues around picking up and carrying, so the dog has predictability and awareness that it may happen if absolutely needed ideally offered as a question:

“Do you want to be picked up?”

With a cue such as “Up” taught beforehand.

I also like encouraging dogs to move onto a lap or low surface first, where possible, before lifting. This gives them more choice and control.

When lifting, it’s important to support both the chest and hindquarters and keep them close to your body, so they feel secure rather than dangling or unstable.

Some caregivers teach two cues one optional (“do you want up?”) and one non-negotiable for safety (“I have to lift you now”) both predictable, calm and consistent. This clarity can be hugely reassuring, especially for dogs with pain histories or handling sensitivities.

Checking in while carrying and offering dogs the chance to walk again when they’re ready is part of that same consent-led picture.

Puppies, body language, and learning to enjoy handling

Many puppies are lifted frequently by adults, which can unintentionally signal to children that this is always appropriate too. For some puppies, being picked up or handled before they feel comfortable can quickly become overwhelming. When a puppy hasn’t yet learned that human touch is safe or enjoyable, frustration can build and may show up as mouthing or nipping as a way to communicate discomfort.

Dogs don’t naturally pick each other up or stroke one another, so close physical handling is something they need to learn to feel relaxed about. While there are times when lifting a puppy is necessary, it’s important that these experiences are introduced gradually and thoughtfully. I encourage families to slow things down, observe the puppy’s body language first, and let the puppy guide the interaction wherever possible.

Learning to recognise a clear “yes please” such as approaching, soft muscles, and relaxed movement versus a “no thank you” like leaning away, freezing, or turning the head should always come before touching or lifting. Adding simple cues like “up” early on also helps puppies understand what’s coming next, giving them a sense of predictability and control.

Handled in this way, puppies can build positive associations with being touched, making everyday care safer and more comfortable for everyone involved.

Supporting sensitive small dogs without flooding them

I work with many clients who have sensitive small dogs, many of whom did not want to go for walks, with multiple factors influencing this.

In some cases particularly with rescue dogs with little known history, or very sensitive vaccinated puppies or adolescents I may recommend reintroducing them to the world from their arms, much like we would with an unvaccinated puppy. This is only if the dog finds being carried comforting and it’s been taught.

Another option, of course, is a carrier for smaller dogs introduced as a safe place in a positive way.

Being held or carried can allow dogs to observe from a sensible distance, taking information in through their nose and other senses without being flooded. This gives them space to process what they are seeing, hearing and smelling, rather than being pushed straight into situations they’re not ready to cope with on the ground.

Evolution didn’t create these tiny dogs we did, through breeding so I think it’s our job to support them in ways that work best for them.

We can then progress crouching down when the dog shows some interest in exploring a little, with the care giver staying static so the dog can choose to come back to their human for safety, using the caregiver’s legs as protection. Still setting up for success.

Other Dogs, Jumping Up and Environmental Awareness

I’m also very mindful of where lifting happens.

From another dog’s perspective, seeing a dog in someone’s arms is unusual and can create curiosity, confusion, frustration and sometimes jumping up as they investigate.

That risk is part of the equation too.

As confidence builds, I often look to transfer that sense of safety to crouching as previously mentioned, protective positioning, and sometimes a trained middle position between the caregiver’s feet, depending on the dog ensuring however they do not feel trapped.

It’s vital that the care giver becomes the dogs safe place, which is particularly important off-lead, so a worried dogs learn to run towards their caregiver rather than hiding or bolting for home.

Long dog walks, fatigue and knowing when enough is enough

Mila goes many places with her caregiver. Her tiny legs, our long stride and her slower pace can make walking exhausting, I see many small dogs literally having to jog everywhere because of their care givers pace.

While I’m a strong advocate that walks should be about the dog or at least cooperative at both ends of the lead she also has a carrier she loves and uses as a safe place when walks are long, rushed or particularly busy.

Some small dogs are incredibly fit and cover huge distances. Others fatigue far sooner than people realise, and pain doesn’t always show itself clearly at first. Learning to read those subtle signs slowing, lagging, seeking to be picked up matters.

Sometimes carrying for a short stretch across rough ground, crowds or hazards is simply sensible management.

It depends: Individual Dogs, preferences and history

A consistent theme from discussion was that, like people, dogs have preferences.

Some actively ask to be picked up climbing into laps, leaning in, offering their side or backing into position. Others strongly dislike it and would far rather deal with the world on their own four feet.

How handling is introduced, how touch is part of daily life, pain or physical discomfort, past experiences, and temperament all shape those preferences.

Some dogs learn that being lifted makes them feel safe. Others learn that it feels intrusive or frightening.

Our job is to listen.

So… Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up?

Since meeting Mila, I’ve looked at small dog management in a completely different light.

For me, it isn’t about rigid rules.

It’s about:

  • Safety
  • Predictability
  • Consent where possible
  • Thoughtful handling
  • Supporting confidence
  • And building resilience over time

Picking up and carrying can be a valid and useful place of safety for some dogs when used deliberately, compassionately, and alongside skill-building on the ground.

Individual dogs, histories, environments and caregiver skills all matter enormously.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

When Getting a Dog Feels Harder Than You Expected

Joanne Hinds

The struggles people do not talk about when having a dog

Bringing a dog into your life is often portrayed as joyful, healing, and wholesome and it can be however what we don’t talk about enough is the emotional crash that can come shortly after.

The sleepless nights. The constant worry. The guilt of not feeling the way you thought you would. For many new dog guardians, this reality hits hard and it’s rarely discussed.

This blog is for those in the thick of it: feeling overwhelmed, questioning their decision, or simply exhausted from trying to “get it right.” Let’s talk about why it feels so hard and why that doesn’t mean you’re failing.

The hope: Dogs as emotional support

Many people bring a puppy or rescue dog into their lives hoping for emotional comfort especially those navigating anxiety, depression, grief, or isolation. Dogs are often seen as a way to:

  • Get outside more
  • Build a routine
  • Ease feelings of loneliness
  • Provide a sense of purpose

But here’s the truth: in the beginning, a dog can amplify anxiety before it soothes it.

What often happens is this: in trying to provide the best for your new dog, you find yourself spiralling into stress. Constantly questioning your choices, reading every article, googling everything and watching video after video trying to do everything “right.” And when it still feels hard? The guilt creeps in.

Puppy blues and rescue dog guilt

There’s a name for this: the Puppy Blues or Rescue Dog Blues.

And it’s a very real emotional crash that many people experience in the first days, weeks, or even months after bringing a dog home.

You might feel:

  • Overwhelmed, anxious and unprepared
  • Exhausted from lack of sleep or relentless demands
  • Disconnected from your new dog
  • Frustrated that things aren’t “clicking”
  • Guilty for not enjoying it

This doesn’t make you a bad dog guardian. It makes you human and deeply caring.

Your anxiety and worry are signs of nurture, of wanting to get it right. Often, these very traits make people more attuned to their dog’s body language and needs.

But it’s also about balance. When care tips into hypervigilance or self-doubt, it can become emotionally draining for you, and for your dog.

The misconception: “Dogs fix anxiety”

It’s true that dogs can positively influence mental health there’s a growing body of evidence showing how their presence can lower cortisol, ease loneliness, and boost routine.

However that benefit doesn’t always show up straight away. Especially with puppies or newly rescued dogs, the early stages are intense:

  • Teething
  • Sleep deprivation
  • Toilet training
  • Socialisation pressures (“I need to do everything right in the first 16 weeks!”)
  • Managing fear or reactivity, growling, snapping and in some dogs biting

All while you’re also adjusting physically, emotionally, socially.

Sometimes, anxiety gets worse before it gets better.

Due to strict rehoming criteria in many UK-based rescues, people often turn to overseas organisations particularly in Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe. While these adoptions are often well-intended and full of heart, they can come with unique challenges.

Many of these dogs have:

  • Grown up as free-roaming street dogs
  • Had little to no experience living in homes
  • Spent long periods in shelter kennels
  • Missed out on early positive socialisation

Integrating them into UK life with leads, closed doors, traffic, visitors, and strict routines can be incredibly stressful for both the dog and the family. Without proper support, these dogs often bounce back into rescue, caught in a heartbreaking loop.

There are ethical rescues out there doing brilliant work, both in the UK and abroad but it’s vital to do your research. Choose a rescue that:

  • Offers post-adoption behavioural support
  • Matches dogs to homes carefully
  • Understands the background and likely challenges of the dogs
  • Will be honest about what the dog needs, not just what people want to hear

How human anxiety affects dogs and why that’s okay

There is a growing body of research showing how human mental health influences dog behaviour. Dogs are incredibly sensitive to our emotions they may mirror stress, become unsettled by unpredictability, or even change how they respond to training.

But that doesn’t mean you are to blame. It means:

  • You matter in this picture too
  • Your wellbeing is part of the process
  • Self-compassion is a crucial piece of helping your dog feel safe

It’s important to be aware of how your emotional state might be influencing your dog’s behaviour. Recognising this isn’t about blame it’s about understanding the bigger picture, and getting the support you may need to help you feel more confident, grounded, and capable.

In fact, people with anxiety often make brilliant dog guardians. You may notice small shifts in body language that others miss. You may advocate fiercely for your dog’s comfort. You may prioritise consent, choice, and ethical training.

Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength. Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength.

Why early support is everything

Many people wait until they’re at breaking point before asking for help often out of pride, fear of judgement, or the belief they should “just know” how to cope, early support can prevent small worries from becoming large ones.

You don’t have to do this alone.

Every dog is different. Every life stage brings something new. Even experienced owners and dog professionals can be thrown and that’s okay.

As a behaviourist and trainer, my role is about far more than sit/stay.

It’s about helping you breathe again. Helping you feel less alone. Helping you feel like you’ve got this because with the right help, you do.

Build your support system

You deserve support, too.

Whether that’s:

  • Friends or family you can offload to
  • Ethical, compassionate trainers and behaviourists
  • Doggy daycare or walkers who understand your dog’s needs
  • Online or local groups where you can be real about how hard it feels

Creating your own support circle doesn’t just benefit your mental health it increases the likelihood of long-term success for your dog too.

Asking for help doesn’t mean you’ve failed. It means you care enough to try.

If you are still struggling it is okay

Let’s say this clearly, because it matters:

If you are. not coping, that doesn’t make you weak or heartless.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, it becomes clear that you and your dog are not the right match emotionally, practically, or environmentally. Rehoming or returning a dog is never easy, but it can sometimes be the kindest option for everyone involved.

If you reach that point, please:

  • Don’t suffer in silence
  • Reach out to the rescue or a qualified behaviour professional
  • Work with organisations who will put your dog’s welfare and emotional needs first
  • Take time to find a rescue that understands your dog’s breed, background, or type and offers ethical behaviour support to help you succeed

This is not failure it’s responsible and compassionate decision-making, however try not to make a decision like this when you’re in the middle of emotional overwhelm. Take a breath, reach out for support, and make the choice from a grounded place.

Final Thoughts: You’re Not Failing. You’re Finding Your Way.

If you’re reading this with tears in your eyes, feeling like you are in over your head please hear this:

You are not alone.

You are not failing.

You are not broken.

You are doing something big, new, and incredibly emotional. It’s normal for it to feel messy and hard at first.

With the right support, the chaos quiets. The relationship grows. The joy returns not because things are perfect, but because you’ve allowed space for grace, for growth, and for being human.

If you’re struggling with your new dog or puppy and need compassionate, practical help, I offer behaviour and training support that’s tailored to both ends of the lead.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp

Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Food and Training: Are We Over-Restricting Our Dogs?

Joanne Hinds

Eating food and drinking water are fundamental needs that every human, animal, and species is entitled to. Yet, when it comes to dogs, we often place restrictions on these basic necessities asking them to wait, building excessive durations before they can eat, or managing their food intake so rigidly that it’s only allowed during training sessions. Is this fair? No wonder we see so many dogs with eating problems, resource guarding issues or nutritional deficiencies.

The Labrador Dilemma

Take Labradors, for example a breed famously labelled as “greedy” or willing to eat anything. While studies have shown that some Labradors possess a gene mutation that impacts their ability to feel satiated, we must also consider whether human actions play a role. Labrador owners, concerned about the breed’s tendency to become overweight, often restrict food or opt for low-calorie diets. These foods, high in carbohydrates but lacking in fulfilling properties, may leave dogs perpetually hungry.

Are we contributing to the problem by creating environments where food is restricted, over-managed, or insufficiently nourishing? Is it truly hunger caused by genetics, or is it a response to human-imposed limitations?

Food as a Training Tool

Using food in training is common and effective, and I use food and play as rewards too. But I ensure we never use a dog’s meal for training purposes and will give them food without asking them to do something every time and will give them a snack or their meal when I am eating as well, you wouldn’t eat in front of someone else without offering them something too. Dogs deserve to enjoy their meals without conditions attached, we just have to ensure the food we do use for training is accounted for as part of their daily calorie needs.

I focus my training on safety and building positive associations. I do generally reserve special foods something they love for training requirement to keep it exciting and rewarding which I still question my self about however I want to ensure I do not infringe on their basic right to eat freely.

Drawing Parallels with Children

Imagine if we treated children the same way we treat dogs when it comes to food. What if children had to “earn” their meals or were denied food for not meeting certain expectations? Social services would undoubtedly intervene, recognising such practices as neglectful and unethical. Yet, with dogs, this level of control is not only accepted but encouraged in many training circles.

This dynamic raises questions about the ethics of using food as leverage. Could this approach contribute to issues such as fussiness, food refusal, or digestive problems in dogs? Some dogs go days without eating or are spoon-fed or hand-fed by anxious owners. Is it possible that our own anxiety around food is perpetuating these issues?

Balancing Food and Training Needs

Of course, dogs must adapt to human lifestyles and societal expectations. Food is a practical and often essential tool for training behaviours that help dogs navigate our world safely and appropriately. But we must be mindful:

  • Are the behaviours we’re training necessary for their well-being and to keep them and others safe or are they imposed solely to fit human convenience or entertainment.
  • Respecting their autonomy: Dogs, like all living beings, have their own preferences and needs. While food can be a powerful motivator, we should also respect their space and allow them to make choices. When we constantly use food to guide their actions, we risk diminishing their ability to make independent decisions and express natural behaviour.
  • The effect of food-based training on their relationship with us: Dogs form bonds based on trust and connection, not just what they can get in exchange for performing tasks. If food becomes the primary currency for every interaction, we risk shifting the relationship to one based on transactions rather than genuine companionship.
  • Not overshadowing other forms of enrichment: Training is important, but it’s equally crucial to consider the other ways we enrich our dogs’ lives. Mental stimulation, social interactions, physical exercise, and opportunities for play all contribute to a dog’s well-being. If food is the main tool we use, we may neglect these other important aspects of a dog’s development and happiness.


A Call to Rethink

As dog professionals and dog owners, it’s time to reconsider our approach to food and training. Dogs are not here to entertain us or live in ways entirely contrary to their instincts. They deserve to have their basic needs and natural behaviours where possible met without excessive restriction or exploitation.

Let’s aim to build confidence and trust through mindful practices that respect their nature. By focusing on safety, positive associations, and rewards that are meaningful yet balanced, we can create training experiences that enhance our dogs’ well-being without compromising their right to simply enjoy being dogs.

By rethinking how we use food, we can help dogs live healthier, happier lives—free from unnecessary stress and anxiety around their most basic need.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

Dog play: Do you know what warning signs to watch out for?

Joanne Hinds

I frequently encounter dogs that once socialised well in the park as puppies but started barking and lunging at other dogs as they grew older. Similarly, some dogs initially thrived in doggy day care, only to be banned later for barking or snapping at other dogs.

Understanding the different types of dog play is crucial for managing interactions and preventing conflicts, even with dogs that are familiar with one another.

Always observe other dogs’ body language from a distance before letting a dog approach. Dogs that look away or ignore a dog are not interested in playing or interacting. On play dates, start with a sniffy calm walk together before short play sessions, keeping arousal levels manageable and giving breaks and rest to prevent escalation, do not stand around for long periods, keep moving with the dogs, often dogs or at least one of the dogs will want to leave much sooner than we do.

Avoid play with balls/frisbees or repetitive chasing not only can this lead to injuries, it causes over arousal, conflict and does not hone in to natural behaviours for any dog, dogs would never do this naturally, together they would rough house or tug. This activity only focuses on a part of the predatory chase instinct, leaving the dogs in this heightened state, which can lead to trouble and discourage natural behaviour with one another. However, that’s a topic for another blog!

Overly excitable dogs, often have other things that need to be addressed in their life to help calm their interactions with other dogs however they also can be over the top as they are finding the situation too much.

A friendly dog should not be allowed to run up to a nervous or on lead dog.

Healthy Play:

  • Play is reciprocal, with a give-and-take dynamic.
  • Chase games are balanced, with dogs taking turns.
  • Dogs have relaxed, sometimes “goofy” body language.

A “play bow” might indicate readiness to play, especially among familiar dogs, but it can also be a way to try and increase distance from another dog, sometimes accompanied by barking which is misunderstood by many.

Cautionary Play:

  • Intervene before it escalates.
  • Stop play if one dog is consistently picked on or more than one dog gangs up on another.
  • Prevent tugging or dragging by the collar, harness, or body parts.
  • Interrupt if one dog tries to hide or escape from mismatched chasing.
  • One sided chase, perform a consent test by holding the chaser to see if the other dog still wants to play.

If there are multiple dogs and one of the dogs are barking at the other dogs that are playing or trying to get in between. Its likely the play is too much and the dog is trying to calm the situations before conflict arises, sadly a high percentage of these dogs, are often the dogs that are kicked out of day care when in fact they are trying to keep the peace, they are not the fun police. If a dog is the chaser, recall them positively; if they don’t respond, keep them on a lead unless they can reliably come when called.

If a dog is being targeted, intervene or ask the other owner to intervene or remove the dog from the situation, rewarding them for walking away from conflict. Consistent issues might lead a dog to use aggression as a defence and start to not enjoy the presence of other dogs.

This is why it’s important that day care centres and walkers manage interaction carefully and the dogs should be supervised well. All of the areas they are kept in have comfortable rest areas inside and out, calming enrichment that include sensory plants and outlets for natural behaviour. Bare baron spaces or with limited items and flat field space can be under stimulating, lead to pacing and confinement stress and can cause over the top play with other dogs, unbalancing the group dynamics.

Unacceptable Play:

  • Watch for neck or body biting and grabbing.
  • Prevent barking in another dog’s face.
  • Humping often indicates the play has gone on too long or they are trying to calm another dog down.
  • Head-over-shoulders stance is confrontational and should be interrupted.
  • Body slamming and pinning another dog to the ground are unacceptable.
  • Prevent dogs from forming intimidating groups around another dog.
  • Air snaps indicate a desire for more distance and should be heeded.
  • Avoid unsupervised play.

In any of these scenarios, intervene or recall the dog if play becomes inappropriate or if other owners don’t control their dogs. Reward the dog for returning to you.

If a dog cannot be reliably recalled, use a long-lead and practise recall with a harness. After recalling a dog from play, allow them to calm down before resuming. If an incident occurs, limit further interactions and consider ending the walk early.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour, Pain and behaviour

The silent sufferers: Understanding pain in active dogs

Joanne Hinds

Dogs that are busy, overexcitable, or restless are often overlooked when it comes to discomfort and pain. In the park, these dogs may run around off-lead like mad, are maybe play-obsessed, might constantly pull on the lead, may not nap during the day, shift frequently during sleep and are generally just on the go constantly.

Surely, if they can do all that, there’s no way they can be in pain, right?

Like us, dogs manage discomfort in many different ways

During my pregnancy, I experienced symphysis pubic dysfunction, where my pelvis started to move unevenly, I was more susceptible to this due to other conflicting conditions I have, including hypermobility syndrome.

Although I’ve had physio for the condition, I still have discomfort in my pelvis when stationary or lying on my back. However, when I continue to move, the pain disappears, and I can walk for miles.

Vet examination

During veterinary exams, dogs like this often do not show pain when examined, if the vet even gets a chance to examine them. Add any type of fear response on top of this when being handled, and the vet has no chance of feeling or seeing the discomfort.

When feeling fearful or overly excited, adrenaline is released, causing blood vessels to constrict, and diverting blood to major muscle groups like the heart and lungs. This surge in adrenaline reduces the body’s sensitivity to pain, allowing you to keep running from or confronting danger even if injured.

Black and white border collar panting being examined by vet

Many working breeds get overlooked when it comes to pain; these dogs were bred to work, and many would continue to do so until they dropped, if not managed carefully. I have worked with many who remained extremely active despite severe hip and elbow dysplasia, broken bones, cruciate tears, dislocations and more.

Effects of repetitive ball or toy play

Typically these are the breeds many people try and tire out with repetitive ball or toy-chasing games, believing that it helps with their working needs. Repeated back-and-forth chasing does not provide a natural outlet for any dog breed or type. It may hone into the chase part of a predatory sequence but that’s it. Spaniels for example are bred to flush prey into the sky and then retrieve the game that has been shot, Collies are bred to stop and start movement slowly and concisely. Jack Russells are bred to chase prey down but they either chase and the prey gets away or they chase and are successful in catching it and shaking them.

The way humans play leaves dogs in this adrenaline-fuelled state which makes them more over aroused and harder to tire. It increases adrenaline levels which can then become addictive looking like the dog is loving it but the dog is unable to switch off, which can then lead to unnatural obsessive behaviour in some dogs. It can take many hours for adrenaline levels to drop. Adrenaline, also known as epinephrine, is a stress hormone, repeated elevation of this, can increase anxiety and stress levels in other areas of your dog’s life.

Greyhound on grass twisting to get ball

When a dog is already in pain, certain behaviours can become addictive because elevated adrenaline levels can decrease the perception of pain. This reduction in pain perception may lead the dog to seek out activities that trigger the release of adrenaline, creating a cycle where the behaviour becomes addictive as a means of temporarily alleviating discomfort.

Chase games particularly ball play put dogs at very high risk of injury in the dog’s limbs, particularly the ligaments in the toes, wrists, and knees and when the ball bounces in unpredictable directions, it also poses a danger of injuries to other parts of the body, including bones, ligaments, joints, and muscles. Learn more about the effects of ball throwing in dogs.

Dogs are stoic, which is why conducting Dynamic Dog assessments is so important and has helped thousands of dogs get the support they need.

Either contact me or look for a Dynamic Dog practitioner in your area.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp

Pain and behaviour

Ear Infections in Dogs and behaviour

Joanne Hinds

“Behind every stoic dog, there maybe a silent struggle”

Ear infections in dogs cannot only cause physical discomfort but also impact their behaviour. Recognising the signs of ear infections and understanding their potential behavioural implications is essential for dog owners. This article explores the connection between ear infections and canine behaviour, highlighting the importance of early detection and proper management.

Signs of an ear infection dogs

Recognising the signs of ear infections in dogs is crucial for timely intervention. According to veterinary expert signs may include a slightly dirty ear, head shaking, holding one ear lower than the other, head tilting, scratching, and wincing. These symptoms may indicate discomfort and potential underlying issues that could affect behaviour.

Behavioural signs of ear infections

Ear infections can manifest behaviourally in dogs, affecting their response to various stimuli. Dr. Sarah Wooten, a veterinarian, emphasises that dogs may associate pain from ear infections with specific triggers, such as touch or wearing certain equipment (Wooten, 2020). In many behaviour cases where dogs become sensitive to touch, putting on equipment like harnesses, or showing reactivity towards other dogs, past ear problems have been identified.

Pain in dogs is sometimes difficult to identify

It’s difficult to gauge the level of discomfort for each dog as it varies. Even during veterinary exams, many dogs may be tense or overwhelmed with fear and mask their discomfort well, especially working breeds or bull breeds bred for endurance and resilience, which may not show typical signs of discomfort.

Dogs can start associating pain with specific triggers, such as being approached and patted on the head, wearing a harness that goes over the head, or encountering a particular dog in the park. If you’ve experienced the frustration, discomfort, or pain of an ear infection and other common symptoms like nausea and dizziness, it’s worth being more mindful with your dog.

Managing the discomfort of ear infections

Proper management of ear infections involves not only medical treatment but also behavioural adjustments. Be mindful of interactions with a dog experiencing ear problems, minimise triggers that exacerbates discomfort. Avoid head rubbing and opt for under-chin or chest strokes, but watch the body language as this can be too much, as the skin is all connected. Keep interactions to one-hand soft, gentle strokes, ensuring the dog has the choice to move away. Make visitors aware to avoid touching the dog’s head and ideally take a hands-off approach altogether. 

Choose a neck clip harness instead of one that goes over the head, particularly for breeds or dogs that constantly have problems. Be cautious during interactions with other dogs; they do not need to interact all the time, observing from afar is absolutely fine.

Address underlying causes of ear infections in dogs

Addressing underlying health issues, such as gut imbalances and dietary factors, is essential for preventing recurrent ear infections in dogs. Imbalances in gut bacteria can lead to systemic inflammation and a weakened immune system, increasing the likelihood of ear infections (Patel et al., 2016). Therefore, maintaining gut health through appropriate diet and supplementation may help reduce the risk of ear problems in susceptible dogs.

By understanding the link between ear infections and behaviour in dogs, owners can take proactive measures to address both the physical and behavioural aspects of these conditions, ultimately improving the well-being of their canine companions.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

5 Exercises to teach Reactive Dogs

Joanne Hinds

Teach these exercises outside of needing them make them fun!

THIS WAY

Teach your dog to follow your direction, your dog can learn to create space around triggers in an arched fashion. Once they understand you’ll assist them in moving away, they’ll be more inclined to follow your guidance.

BEHIND

Train your dog to stay behind you approaching corners or when visibility is limited, avoiding collisions with triggers and enabling you to lead them forward, fostering a sense of security without them feeling they need to lead.

LETS GO

Teach your dog an emergency about turn this is vital for swiftly navigating tricky situations particularly in built up city type areas. It enables a quick exit from potentially hazardous scenarios, ensuring their safety during walks.

TIGHT LEAD

It’s common for a dog to learn when the lead goes tight by the handler there could be a trigger, teach them if the lead goes tight good things happen like rewards instead of them learning to be on high alert.

WAIT

Teach your dog to stop and wait for further instructions, prevents them from wandering off, running into approaching hazards. This request enables handlers to manage their dogs effectively to put them back on lead where necessary, ensuring they stay safe and even when off-lead.

These are just some of the exercises to focus on with your dog, to support them around the things they find difficult in life.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

Are you measuring your dog’s behaviour or your progress against others?

Joanne Hinds

Are you treating your dog fairly, or should you adjust your expectations?

Here’s why you should stop.

Now, I understand this is easier said than done; it’s tricky. Take it from someone who finds herself at times comparing against all the amazing dog behaviourists and trainers out there. However, I must emphasize that while it’s good to be inspired, it’s not healthy to compare and doesn’t bring any benefits. That’s why it’s crucial not to compare your dog with another. I know it’s human nature, and we tend to do this in our personal lives, not to mention on our training journey with our dogs. The trouble arises because when we compare our dog’s skills and progress with another or ourselves with another owner or professional, it does us an injustice and can significantly impact our progress and relationship.

Even if you’re comparing your dog to another say a previous one or a dog of the same breed. Firstly if it’s an older dog that has past and you have a puppy, you may not truly remember the puppy or adolescent stages with the original dog or perhaps your children have all grown up and moved out and they were the ones that were entertaining the older dog when they were a puppy most of the time.

If for example you have a spaniel and you compare it against say someone walking their German Shepherd down the road, there’s a massive difference in their walking style. Spaniels cover ground when working as gun dogs in a zig zag type fashion, German Shepherds tend to sheep along perimeter lines, so is this a realistic comparison? If you are watching another dog that appears to be behaving how can you be sure it is not doing so because it is scared, or has an underlying health condition, or is that just their nature.

Dogs have different learning styles just like us, for example some focus on movement so if whilst teaching you are constantly moving your hands around, this makes it difficult for the dog to know what to focus on. But clear visual signals can help. Other dogs respond better to verbal cues, there are even dogs that learn from watching and then copying.

Researching what your dog was bred for can help you understand their learning style better but each dog has their own preference too. Dogs also learn at different rates, some get frustrated easy so we need to break tasks down, others get distracted easily so we need to keep motivation high or train initially somewhere quiet. Many dogs can be one step a head and can end up learning something different than we expected. This happens to dog trainers and behaviourists too so you are not alone.

As a professional I always focus on the dog in front of me and it’s vital we go at that dogs pace. 

If you have been working hard with your dog it doesn’t mean that you’re doing something wrong, dogs are not blank slates. Even if you get your puppy at eight weeks they’ve had eight weeks of learning history before getting to you, before that there’s hereditary and genetic factors and even the stress of the mum during pregnancy will impact how your dog is doing with the world around them, which in turn impacts learning results.


Sadly we are in a society that wants quick fixes for everything, however the instant solutions you might observe on tv or social media usually have an aversive or punishing component, which has a detrimental effect long term on your dogs emotional state and can lead to further unwanted and sometimes dangerous behaviour. 

When you’re comparing your dog what happens is you stop listening, you stop listening to when your dog is not comfortable with something or is finding the training difficult or is not getting it. Therefore frustration and even anger can start to arise.

If we take lead walking, for example, there are so many factors influencing your dog walking beside you on lead. Take pace for instance, some dogs cannot walk at the pace we are walking at. If you think about someone who walks slower than you naturally you walk faster and it’s hard to maintain their pace. If your dog is anxious they are going to want to move quickly in an environment, they may sniff the environment briefly and want to get back to their safe place as soon as possible. There’s so much they’re trying to take in and if they’re scared they’re gonna wanna walk quicker. There are multiple reasons why dogs pull.

What ever you are trying to train I urge you to try and take a step back and take one day at a time with your training, watch the dog in front of you and be kind to your self. Be mindful of how you are feeling and what mood you are in, dogs are sensitive to our mood states and it will affect their behaviour. It’s good to sometimes just spending time with your dog without doing anything specific, spending quality time without constant training. If you’ve just had a stressful day at work and then decided to take your dog out on a walk and you are still working on lead walking you might find your patience is shorter. You are not setting your dog up for success for learning and you’re putting yourself under pressure so either don’t take your dog out that day, choose a different time or just use this time to simply enjoy your dogs company.

Consider where you are getting your behaviour or training support from. Researching advice off of the internet can be detrimental to your success and will put your techniques into conflict, causing your dog to be more confused.

There is not a one size fits all approach to Dog Behaviour and Training, despite what you might see on TikTok, Facebook, Snapchat, or other media platforms. That’s why seeking guidance from a professional who can work with you individually, understanding your environment, your dog, your needs, and expectations, is more effective. They can help you set and achieve goals, considering the pace of both you and your dog.

Take a moment to step back, observe your actions from an outsider’s perspective, and if needed, seek support. Even a phone advice session with a trainer or behaviourist can provide valuable insights into what might not be working.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp
Dog Behaviour

Dog Equipment

Joanne Hinds

This page is designed to quickly access some of the products that I have used and often talked about during my sessions, the content on this page will be forever changing as new and improved products come on the market. These products are my preferences but all people and dogs are different and what suits one may not suit another.

Select images for further details

Silicone Treat Pouch – I find this dog treat pouch from Dexus really useful, I don’t clip it on my belt as I do not want the dogs I am working with fixated on it but it’s excellent to stick in your pocket and to get the treats out easily and most importantly quickly. It is really hygienic too really easy to wash. No more smelly treat bags. Available in many colours.


Double Ended Dog Lead – I love this lead by Mekuti, I have used it for many years and have not gone for another. The softex material it is made out of, means it’s kind on hands even with the strongest of pullers. This lead comes in two thicknesses and 3 lengths 2m, 2.5m (my general lead) and 3m. This can be used on a two point harness or just as a longer lead as you can turn one end into a handle my favourite way of using it. The same as other double ended leads you can change the length of the lead too by clipping to different points on the lead.

Recall Lead – If you want a reliable recall i.e. your dog coming back when you need them too. You need one of these, you need to be 100% sure they will come back before letting them off. If you start off with them off lead and then they learn not to respond to your come request you will have a dog that rehearses not coming back to you because they can. Again like the Mekuti lead this is made of softex material kinder to your hands. It comes in different lengths but I work with the 10m length one. Long lines should be attached to a harness and never a collar they can cause severe damage to the neck.


Blue-9 Balance Harness Buckle Neck – Designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harness™ has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.

Perfect Fit Fleece Harness – Another great harness which is fleece lined making it more comfortable for the Dog especially with short fur or delicate skin. Good for the dogs that get cold out there but be careful in the summer as this harness can make some dogs sweat and if your dog suffers from skin problems the extra moisture could make it worse. What’s really good about this harness is it comes in three pieces which means it can be perfectly fitted to your dogs shape and size and you can send back the individual pieces to get the sizing right.

Perfect Fit dog harnes blue and black three piece

Safety Link – Although not specifically designed for this purpose I find this halti link useful for attaching a dogs collar to their harness especially for the Houdini types. Simply slip the looped end through the harness closest to your dogs collar and then use the clip end on your dogs collar ring. This comes in different sizes.

Freedom Handle – I use this in conjunction with the double ended lead for clients that like to have a handle, these are great material too soft on the hands.


Settle Mat – I love this although it’s labeled as a crate mat, they make great settle mats, they can be rolled up to take with you to friends, pubs, cafes, restaurants and can double up as a shallow snuffle mat, anti slip backing and washable cover.

Dog Water Bottle – It’s important to always ‪remember to take out water for dogs in all weather they get thirsty in the cold too! Some dogs like dirty water, others have no other option. This effects training mouths will be dry causing reluctance to take treats & then the treats & what your are teaching is no longer rewarding.‬ This water bottle is a great design with a hook to take with you where ever you go. Be mindful to always introduce them at home first, a new object forced towards them can be frightening and prevent them from drinking.

Muzzle – I believe every dog should be trained to wear a muzzle and like having it on, yes this is possible. All dogs have the potential to bite especially those in pain. It’s much better to train a dog to enjoy wearing one, rather than having to force it on when your dog may already be stressed after a road traffic accident for example. Muzzles are used for many different reasons these days even for dogs that constantly pick up and eat things from the floor when out on walks. It is vital you go for the plastic or biothane basket type muzzles as the material ones mean dogs cannot pant and usually dogs wearing them are stressed and need too. The Ultra Muzzle or Buma allows them to pant, drink and even has an area that allows dogs to take treats.

Car Harness – It is important to have your dog/puppy safely restrained in a car for your safety as well as your dogs. There are many harnesses that are out there but you must always go for one that is actually crash tested. The ezydog car harness is one option.

My Utility Jacket – I often get asked about the jacket I wear because people are surprised the equipment I can be carrying on me. There are so many pockets on this jacket I feel like the Mary Poppins of the dog world. I carry my long line, leads, freedom handle, dog toys, Poo bags, business cards and more in it, this is one of my best buys.

Mud Daddy – Great to wash your dogs paws off but ensure you get them used to it positively first and excellent for washing muddy boots. I keep this in my car. It also comes in useful for trips to the beach, washing sand off etc

Bed – For a dog to be comfortable their beds should be big enough to do a superman pose in, so legs stretched out fully in any direction the average pet dog has a bed that’s too small or not comfortable. This can also affect gait and posture. Comfort is important too there are a number of types of beds working out what your dog likes is not always easy but these Barney Beds or Big Barker beds often go down well.

Rugs – This might appear random I know but the average households these days have floors that are too slippery for dogs that cause niggling injuries where they have to make micro adjustments to stabilise this can bring on early arthritis and also cause injury and anxiety as the dog is unable to relax. This rugs have a really good anti slip bottom that is good on a large number of floor types.

If you are getting a puppy go to my puppy shopping list


As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I only list products that I have used, seen or genuinely believe are good.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

BOOK Free call
EMAIL ME
Chat on WhatsApp