Grey and brown long haired chihuahua being carried near a road close up
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up and Carried?

Many years ago, I started writing a book called Little Dog Syndrome. I sent it to a publisher who, to my surprise, was interested but life got in the way. I’ve recently revisited it, with the intention of continuing to work on it after finishing my Rethinking Lead Walking course for professionals. (Note to self: I have a tendency to start lots of projects and not finish them… something I’m consciously working on this year.)

I’m actually really glad I left this until now, because my thoughts and opinions have changed. The title was never my philosophy; it was more of a hook, reflecting how small dogs are so often described. Even back then, I was writing from a mindful place, considering how differently smaller dogs are raised, handled, and managed.

One of the areas I wrote about was picking dogs up and carrying them and this is where my thinking has evolved the most.

Picking Up Small Dogs: Why I Used to Avoid It

For a long time, I believed picking up and carrying small dogs should be avoided wherever possible, other than for essential husbandry, grooming, veterinary visits through cooperative care, or safety for example, if a dog hasn’t been trained around doors and you can’t shut them into another room.

I felt that frequent carrying often reduced confidence rather than building it.

In some situations, I still think that can be true particularly when dogs are picked up suddenly, randomly, without warning, or without any choice.

Dogs don’t lift one another. Being removed from the ground can feel startling, disorientating or frightening, especially if it happens repeatedly and unpredictably. Over time, that can create handling sensitivities, anxiety, or defensive behaviour.

How Meeting Mila the Chihuahua Changed My Perspective

My thinking began to shift initially with some uncertainty, and then changed much more after meeting my good friend’s Chihuahua, Mila, when she was just a puppy.

In 30 years, I had never worked with a Chihuahua puppy. I rarely saw them in puppy classes they’re not generally brought and I mostly met them later as behaviour cases involving handling issues, barking, growling, snapping and biting.

Meeting Mila was a real eye-opener.

There is a lot of discussion around picking dogs up when they are scared. I see many caregivers doing this and I also see many small dogs actively asking to be picked up or carried. For some individuals, being lifted genuinely functions as a place of safety. Sometimes the world is a pretty overwhelming place when you’re looking at it from ground level.

Why busy environments are different for tiny dogs

Mila is now an adult, fully grown, and still incredibly tiny. Her legs are as thin as my little finger. She walks alongside her caregiver, but in busy environments she can easily be missed, accidentally stepped on, or rolled over by wheels prams, scooters, bikes, trolleys.

Don’t get me wrong she is swift, nimble and can move when she needs too, she lives with three children but there is still a much higher level of physical risk for dogs her size moving through busy human spaces.

She is confident and pretty resilient, though still alert and cautious, particularly of feet and sometimes hands. I can completely understand why, in busy environments, picking her up or carrying her can be necessary and protective. I do it myself. If a large, exuberant dog barrelled into Mila, she could be significantly hurt.

That context matters.

That said, I do think there are times when we pick small dogs up too quickly before anything has actually happened potentially creating worry before the dog is truly concerned.

At the same time, I can absolutely see why caregivers do it… because they care.

This balance between protecting and over-protecting is one of the hardest things to get right.

A theme echoed by many professionals in discussion was that carrying should not quietly become the default coping strategy. The long-term aim for most dogs is still to feel safe in their own bodies on the ground, with their caregiver as a secure base they can move towards not something they are always lifted away from.

Facial bites, hugging and why choice is critical

One common issue I see is dogs being picked up randomly to be hugged and kissed often one of the main causes of facial bites.

This can start to make dogs feel uncomfortable, this is not normal dog behaviour and actually can be mistaken for a challenge when you think of how dogs lean over one another’s necks sometimes before a fight.

Allowing people to approach and stroke a dog when they are in your arms is, in my view, a no-no. The dog has no choice, signals are often misread, and that lack of agency is frequently why dogs bite: they’re unable to move away, it’s intimidating, and hands can be really annoying.

Small dogs are also more likely to be scooped up by strangers adults and children alike often without warning. Repeated experiences like this understandably teach dogs that approaching humans are unpredictable and threatening, and they may escalate their behaviour to protect themselves.

Teaching predictable, consent-based lifting to dogs

I strongly believe there should be clear cues around picking up and carrying, so the dog has predictability and awareness that it may happen if absolutely needed ideally offered as a question:

“Do you want to be picked up?”

With a cue such as “Up” taught beforehand.

I also like encouraging dogs to move onto a lap or low surface first, where possible, before lifting. This gives them more choice and control.

When lifting, it’s important to support both the chest and hindquarters and keep them close to your body, so they feel secure rather than dangling or unstable.

Some caregivers teach two cues one optional (“do you want up?”) and one non-negotiable for safety (“I have to lift you now”) both predictable, calm and consistent. This clarity can be hugely reassuring, especially for dogs with pain histories or handling sensitivities.

Checking in while carrying and offering dogs the chance to walk again when they’re ready is part of that same consent-led picture.

Puppies, body language, and learning to enjoy handling

Many puppies are lifted frequently by adults, which can unintentionally signal to children that this is always appropriate too. For some puppies, being picked up or handled before they feel comfortable can quickly become overwhelming. When a puppy hasn’t yet learned that human touch is safe or enjoyable, frustration can build and may show up as mouthing or nipping as a way to communicate discomfort.

Dogs don’t naturally pick each other up or stroke one another, so close physical handling is something they need to learn to feel relaxed about. While there are times when lifting a puppy is necessary, it’s important that these experiences are introduced gradually and thoughtfully. I encourage families to slow things down, observe the puppy’s body language first, and let the puppy guide the interaction wherever possible.

Learning to recognise a clear “yes please” such as approaching, soft muscles, and relaxed movement versus a “no thank you” like leaning away, freezing, or turning the head should always come before touching or lifting. Adding simple cues like “up” early on also helps puppies understand what’s coming next, giving them a sense of predictability and control.

Handled in this way, puppies can build positive associations with being touched, making everyday care safer and more comfortable for everyone involved.

Supporting sensitive small dogs without flooding them

I work with many clients who have sensitive small dogs, many of whom did not want to go for walks, with multiple factors influencing this.

In some cases particularly with rescue dogs with little known history, or very sensitive vaccinated puppies or adolescents I may recommend reintroducing them to the world from their arms, much like we would with an unvaccinated puppy. This is only if the dog finds being carried comforting and it’s been taught.

Another option, of course, is a carrier for smaller dogs introduced as a safe place in a positive way.

Being held or carried can allow dogs to observe from a sensible distance, taking information in through their nose and other senses without being flooded. This gives them space to process what they are seeing, hearing and smelling, rather than being pushed straight into situations they’re not ready to cope with on the ground.

Evolution didn’t create these tiny dogs we did, through breeding so I think it’s our job to support them in ways that work best for them.

We can then progress crouching down when the dog shows some interest in exploring a little, with the care giver staying static so the dog can choose to come back to their human for safety, using the caregiver’s legs as protection. Still setting up for success.

Other Dogs, Jumping Up and Environmental Awareness

I’m also very mindful of where lifting happens.

From another dog’s perspective, seeing a dog in someone’s arms is unusual and can create curiosity, confusion, frustration and sometimes jumping up as they investigate.

That risk is part of the equation too.

As confidence builds, I often look to transfer that sense of safety to crouching as previously mentioned, protective positioning, and sometimes a trained middle position between the caregiver’s feet, depending on the dog ensuring however they do not feel trapped.

It’s vital that the care giver becomes the dogs safe place, which is particularly important off-lead, so a worried dogs learn to run towards their caregiver rather than hiding or bolting for home.

Long dog walks, fatigue and knowing when enough is enough

Mila goes many places with her caregiver. Her tiny legs, our long stride and her slower pace can make walking exhausting, I see many small dogs literally having to jog everywhere because of their care givers pace.

While I’m a strong advocate that walks should be about the dog or at least cooperative at both ends of the lead she also has a carrier she loves and uses as a safe place when walks are long, rushed or particularly busy.

Some small dogs are incredibly fit and cover huge distances. Others fatigue far sooner than people realise, and pain doesn’t always show itself clearly at first. Learning to read those subtle signs slowing, lagging, seeking to be picked up matters.

Sometimes carrying for a short stretch across rough ground, crowds or hazards is simply sensible management.

It depends: Individual Dogs, preferences and history

A consistent theme from discussion was that, like people, dogs have preferences.

Some actively ask to be picked up climbing into laps, leaning in, offering their side or backing into position. Others strongly dislike it and would far rather deal with the world on their own four feet.

How handling is introduced, how touch is part of daily life, pain or physical discomfort, past experiences, and temperament all shape those preferences.

Some dogs learn that being lifted makes them feel safe. Others learn that it feels intrusive or frightening.

Our job is to listen.

So… Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up?

Since meeting Mila, I’ve looked at small dog management in a completely different light.

For me, it isn’t about rigid rules.

It’s about:

  • Safety
  • Predictability
  • Consent where possible
  • Thoughtful handling
  • Supporting confidence
  • And building resilience over time

Picking up and carrying can be a valid and useful place of safety for some dogs when used deliberately, compassionately, and alongside skill-building on the ground.

Individual dogs, histories, environments and caregiver skills all matter enormously.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

How You Affect Your Dog

Dogs are little mirrors they watch us constantly and can reflect our behaviour. If you are excited and optimistic you often see your dogs energy increase they might get a little excited and playful. A classic way of seeing this is when we tell our dog they are a good boy/girl this is not about the words initially as they do not speak our language, its about the way we deliver the words and how we behave when we do it is positive happy energy. How we feel, our energy, and our confidence all directly influence our dogs. 

Dogs are highly attuned to our body language, tone of voice, and even subtle changes in our energy and hormone levels through their amazing senses.

If you are someone whose energy is generally heightened and you’re constantly “on the go,” finding it difficult to relax, sit, or switch off, you may pace, feel restless or impatient, and struggle to wind down or sleep. Dogs can often mirror this arousal, which can make them more alert, more reactive to noises, and less able to rest even when tired, puppies generally will want to be close to care givers for a number of weeks and if this is our general state some puppies will not be getting the amount of rest they need. This can lead to increased connection-seeking behaviours, whining, over-arousal, over tiredness and unwanted behaviours.

If we feel stressed, restless, or anxious, or our moods are inconsistent or up and down, it can affect our dogs in a variety of ways. Puppies and adult dogs are highly sensitive to our energy and often mirror how we feel. They may:

  • Mirror our anxiety – showing increased restlessness, whining, being more clingy
  • Become defensive – in puppies, this can show as increased biting or mouthing, zoomies, growling, barking, stiff body language, or backing away or evening snapping
  • Try to take a protective role – like warning things away, even when they aren’t confident enough.
  • Become hesitant or less confident in new experiences.
  • Show appeasement behaviours – such as jumping up, nudging, or licking repeatedly, in an attempt to calm us or resolve tension.

All of these behaviours can sometimes increase our frustration, making us think the dog is misbehaving, when in fact they are responding to our own behaviour and coping to uncertainty. Understanding this helps us stay patient and aware, and allows us to respond calmly, setting our puppies up for confidence, trust, and positive experiences

Conversely, when we are calm, relaxed and consistent, it helps dogs feel safe, relaxed, and confident, creating a more positive and trusting relationship.

This isn’t about being perfect or beating yourself up when you are having a bad day. It’s about awareness, so you can setup both you and your dog up for success. Even small shifts in your energy can make a big difference. Puppies’ brains are wired to read human social cues from around 3–4 weeks old, paying attention long before we think they are.

Puppies aren’t blank slates either. Genetics, early handling, and their mother’s environment shape their temperament. Some may naturally be more nervous or cautious, so it’s not all about how we bring them up, our behaviour alone doesn’t erase their past, but it can shape how they respond and grow. Being aware of how we act around them is very important as they are developing and when we are socialising them and exposing them to their new world. Calm, confident, and consistent energy helps dogs feel safe, reassured, and willing to engage. Research shows that puppies with sensitive temperaments are especially influenced by caregiver behaviour, learning more quickly when interactions are predictable and positive. Puppies are especially sensitive between 3–12 weeks of age, a key socialisation period where early experiences have a strong and lasting influence. Calm, positive guidance during this time helps build confidence and sets them up for success as they grow.

In the wild, puppies look to their mother for guidance. If a puppy starts barking, it glances back to see her reaction. Calm signals like grooming, relaxing, or simply observing tell the puppy there is no cause for concern. If the mother is tense or scared, the puppy responds accordingly. Calm signals = relaxation; tense signals = concern.

As caregivers, we naturally step into that parental role. When a puppy seems unsure or worried and we respond with a concerned expression, or we scoop them up too quickly before they have had a chance to recover or approach us they can feel more uneasy. Of course, we always want to be a safe place for them to come to when they choose if they are genuinely frightened or struggling, offering comfort builds trust and them seeing we are not concerned will in turn will help them learn. Its still about working at their pace if we pressure them into situations before they’re ready or fail to support them when they really need it, it can affect their confidence and even future recall, because they may not see us as their go-to source of safety.

This is also why rushing to stop a puppy barking especially because we’re worried about neighbours can backfire. Barking is often a natural response to something sudden or surprising. If we react with anxiety or tension, they learn there is something to be worried about. Staying neutral helps them understand the world is safe and there’s no need for alarm.

Feelings are contagious our dogs read us more than we realise, just like we pick up on someone else’s bad mood. Staying steady, calm, and available shows them they’re safe and supported.

If you nature is a certain way that’s ok, sometimes we you might be better at being the one that provides comfort or fun, you just might want to introduce somethings with your puppy being in the arms of the calmer handler in the house. You will see over time that your dogs may be calmer with one person in the house more than the other, that’s due to their general energy. Some dogs, whether or adults respond more to whoever is clear, calm, confident and consistent. Dogs are social learners; they take cues from humans just as they would from their littermates or mother, helping them decide how to react to new situations this is important information when you are taking them out and about. Dogs thrive under predictable routines and clear communication. Being mindful of your energy helps dogs trust and relax, and ensuring good experiences.

What matters most is awareness and checking in with yourself. It’s not about being perfect or suppressing your feelings dogs can tell when you’re faking it. It’s about pausing and noticing, especially when managing your dog’s behaviour or supporting them after a reaction to something in the environment. Training works best when we’re in a good state of mind. If you’re tired, frustrated, or anxious, pause, breathe, and reset stress and worry always show up in your patience. Taking breaks isn’t a weakness; it’s a tool that helps both you and your dog. Even a short pause can stop tension building. Give yourself permission to step back, especially with young puppies, and don’t hesitate to ask for support when you need it.

Research shows that dogs supported by calm, confident handlers become more resilient in new places, around noises, and with other dogs. Your energy matters just as much as your training or your voice. By staying aware, calm, and consistent, you help your dog grow in confidence, build trust, and feel secure. It’s not about getting everything right it’s about being present and willing to try again, doing your best with awareness and care, and knowing that if you have a tough day, you’re human and there’s always another chance. One of the lovely parts of this process is that the mindfulness you offer your dog often helps calm your own nervous system too. Many of us bring dogs into our lives for support, and the beautiful thing is that we can offer that same sense of safety back to them.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Puppy and Adult Dog Introduction

Bringing a new puppy into your home is an exciting time, but it’s important to ensure a smooth introduction with your adult dog. A careful, step-by-step process can help both dogs feel comfortable, safe, and ready to bond. The following short guide provides practical tips to manage their first meetings and build a positive relationship between your new puppy and your resident adult dog.

Pre-arrival

Ask the breeder to provide a blanket the puppy has slept with to bring home (if you can get this in advance even better) you can introduce this to your resident dog to let them sniff and reward them straight after, to start pairing it with something positive do this a number of times. Take something of your older dogs with you when you collect your puppy that your resident dog has laid on, when you go to pick puppy up so they can start getting used to one another scent, this is called scent swapping.

Puppy safe space

Ensure you have prepared a safe space for your puppy, a puppy-proofed area with baby gates or a pen. When you get home ensure the older dog is in a separate room at first with someone if possible. Place any familiar items from the breeder in the pen before your puppy explores it. Let the puppy investigate their safe area first with the adult dog in a different room, letting them process, this lets the puppy know where to find their bed, water, food (if they haven’t eaten yet, remove food before the introduction), and toilet mat first.

Have one person sit in the pen with the puppy, letting them climb on their lap if needed, but it’s important to remain relaxed and calm to avoid showing any concern, no over fussing puppy.

Take something an item that smells of the puppy into the older dog and let them sniff the item and then give them a tasty treat.

Bring the adult dogs in on a lead so they do not charge at the pen and frighten the puppy, let them investigate in their own time. If the puppy panics have the older dog at a slightly further distance.

This setup allows the dogs to see and sniff each other through the pen without direct contact first. Reward calm behavior with verbal praise.

This gradual introduction gives the adult dog space to retreat if needed, while also allowing the puppy to adjust if they feel unsure.

Watch Body Language

Look for signs of stress (e.g., lip licking, yawning, turning away, stiff body language, cowering, bowing and barking) or playfulness, loose body (e.g., wagging tails or play bows). End the interaction if either dog seems particularly stressed or uncomfortable (e.g teeth bearing going at one another in a threatening manner). Observe how they interact through the pen initially.

Out of pen introduction

Once you have observed behaviour and feel they are relaxed with one another.

Allow short periods of supervised interaction indoors, gradually increasing their time together as they become more comfortable.

Avoid Resource Guarding

Remove toys, food, and chews during initial interactions to prevent disputes. Feed the puppy and adult dog separately in completely different rooms.

Avoid over-fussing either dog—there’s no need to overcompensate by giving the adult dog extra attention.

Respect Both Dogs’ Needs

Do not force interaction. Allow the adult dog to set boundaries. It’s normal for an adult dog to correct the puppy with a growl or snap if the puppy becomes too boisterous.

Provide Escape Routes

Ensure the adult dog has access to a quiet space where they can retreat if they need a break. The puppy should also have a safe area to relax and decompress.

Play

Play should be balanced see the signs to watch out for

Be Patient

The relationship may take time to develop. Consistency and calm management are key to fostering a positive bond between the puppy and the adult dog.

Pug Lying Down in Resignation on Wooden Floor with skirting board in background
Dog Behaviour

How can you help your dog during COVID19 lockdown and after?

Hi Guys so we are in the midst of the COVID 19 lockdown, I have been putting off writing anything about this subject because we was not quite sure how long it was going on but I think unfortunately lockdown will not be ending anytime soon. I have had lots of thoughts running around in my mind that you might have concerns with and what concerns I have regarding when lockdown ends for your dog. Socialisation, separation and concern about overtired/over aroused dogs are all covered below.

Firstly I have pulled out some key points from the British Veterinary Association their info graphics are below too. The current strain of Coronavirus is a result of Human-to-human transmission, there is absolutely no evidence that companion animals can spread the disease. Current evidence suggests Covid-19 has a wild animal source however this still remains under investigation. It is also thought it might be possible the virus could be carried on fur from humans that are infected/carrying the virus, for a short period of time in the same way it is on other surfaces, such as tables and doorknobs, this could apply to their harnesses as well. The main advice for animal owners is continue to practise good hand hygiene by washing your hands thoroughly (for 20 seconds with soap and water) after touching your pet and also not letting them interact with other dogs or people that do not live with you. If someone else is walking your dog for you for what ever reason, please carefully still follow social distancing rules and hygiene advice. Have a bag with all your dog equipment in, that you do not need to touch and the dog walker can take and bring back.

All veterinary practices are now required to limit face-to-face contact with clients. This means running an emergency care and emergency prescription service, some are still providing food and doing necessary vaccinations but this is branch dependent. So avoid putting your dog at unnecessary risk.

Pets and corona virus advice from royal veterinary college
RVC Someone walking your dog during COVID 19 advice


Food

If you run out of food dogs can eat human food they did evolve from our discarded food after all! However try and find alternative healthy complete dog foods, if you can rather than making your own, often getting the balance right of nutrients and what your specific dog needs is difficult. It’s always good to add fresh veg and fruit (in moderation) to your dogs dinner a minimum of 3 times a week anyway, this helps with gut health, a healthy gut helps with behaviour too! If you have to change food try and do it gradually if possible, I know this might be difficult don’t worry if it’s not feasible it just to avoid tummy upset. If your dog is on a special diet speak to your vet to see if they can suggest a good alternative. If you are struggling with costs http://www.trussellstrust.org are able to provide pet supplies for people who need it.

Difficult time for all

Lady with hands covering face depicting stress with someone else hands on sides of head

I know this is a stressful time for all of us but believe it or not it will be for our dogs too. Dogs pick up on our mood state so if the behaviour has changed it can be due to this, be mindful to try and take them out when you are feeling not so tense, as handling of the lead can then change the walk and can be unpleasant for your dog and in turn you, as they are likely to pull more or be hyper vigilant to things in the environment if the lead is tense. Some dogs will love you being home but others will be overwhelmed because everyone is there all day, they may not be getting the rest they need. There will be more people interacting with the dog, whether it’s kids constantly playing or teasing them or multiple adults managing unwanted behaviour, if this is not managed right you can have a stressed dog on your hands. Overtired, overexcited or frustrated dogs can lead to bites, statistic are usually higher during school holiday periods so this isolation period will be no different.

Routine

Dogs do appear to have an inbuilt time clock seeming to recognise the difference between week days and weekends (our actions and body language is more likely what influences this the most) however if we treat everyday as a weekend when lockdown is over some dogs are going to struggle. Each dog is different when it comes to routine sometimes a strict adherence to routine creates anxiety issues when all of a sudden they have a day where the routine gets thrown out the window, dogs which suffer from separation anxiety or isolation distress, are extremely aware of routine events that predict your leaving, which triggers their anxiety. What I am mainly suggesting is stick to a version of your normal routine for your working week, feeding your dog when you normally would and walking them. Obviously this will be different if you have a dog sitter but you can do activities in the same way without the socialisation aspect. Don’t walk your dogs more than you usually walk them unless you can sustain this after lock down otherwise when it’s over they will find it difficult when you go back to work, this is unfair and definitely do not make them walk more if they are refusing. Change for the future is inevitable things will not be exactly the same when restrictions are lifted, dogs do adapt but their are somethings to consider for getting through this period with ease for both parties.

Sleep

Ginger and white senior collie x sleeping on bed in sunlight with door in background

I have just posted a very detailed video on YouTube on this specific subject “Is your dog getting enough sleep” but some key points are below. With everyone home everyone may be interacting with your dog more than normal but be mindful sleep is vital to mood state dogs should be sleeping through the night and having regular undisturbed good quality naps in the day. Children and adults should be leaving the dog alone when they are resting or sleeping. Puppies need around 18-20 hours sleep and adult dogs need around 12-14 hours of sleep a day. Lack of rest and sleep can effect behaviour.

Alone Time

If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:

  • Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
  • If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.

If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:

  • Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
  • If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.

Those of you that have puppies that you are concerned about or a dog that struggles to be alone and you are worried about the impact, this is actually a good time to work on separation. The first thing we as behaviourists would advise is not to leave them alone at all and build on separation within the house and them being relaxed first, working in leaving them for seconds rather than minutes.

As well as the above points other places to start would be:

  • Within the house just going to simple places like the toilet or shower and closing the door. If they struggle and get distressed about this in anyway, have a treat pot in the toilet, pick up a handful, drop treats outside toilet door and shut the door every time you need to go.
  • When you need a bath or shower have a kong/chew ready and ask them to lie down on the bed whilst you go to the shower. If you have a dog/puppy that does get distressed leave the door open building on closing it but giving them an activity to do in another room close to the shower.

The important thing with separation training is you going in casually and come out casually. This is what you eventually need to do when leaving the house, this is not about ignoring them it’s about making it no big deal, so it’s normal. You do not want to be adding to how they feel, if you come out saying “I am so sorry I left you” verbally or in your body language, showing any anxiety yourselves, your dog will get distressed because you are.

Teaching a settle on a bed or blanket is also something that is useful to work on. You build on duration first and them truly relaxing and then build in doing short activities around them cleaning or when cooking building in distractions whilst they are still relaxed there. You would then work on distance but not aiming for the front door first, aim for them being at the kitchen door whilst you are at the cooker. Distance will be first before out of sight, before starting out of sight I always suggest to get a dog monitor or application if you have a smartphone and tablet, this enables you to watch for some of the subtle signals dogs give way before they start panting, becoming hyper vigilant, tense whining, barking or howling, you want to return to them before this whilst they are still chilled and relaxed. Do not force confinement or let them cry/whine/bark until they are quiet, this is outdated information it causes anxiety and high stress levels.

Periods of unavailability are important to, think about an activity you usually do and when you do it you dog often goes and rests away from you. Common times this happens (depending on the dog) are when you are on the phone, computer or reading a good book, you are usually completely unavailable and your dog often knows this because your body language indicates it. No eye contact, often looking away doing something else, so they often settle and rest, some almost relieved. It’s important to do activities where you are unavailable you cannot however fake this, you need to just go and do something else in the house. If you think about puppies we are on their case all the time watching them incase they wee or chew something and because of this some find it very difficult to settle in our company and this happens to adult dogs too, being unavailable sometimes is good to give your dog permission to just chill out.

If your dog is used to you going out if you can go out without them, I know there are limits around this but some alone time is important.

Play

To start with there is such a thing as too much play, contrary to popular belief play often does the opposite to tiring a puppy/dog out, it usually makes the dog or puppy over aroused, some frustrated because of how we play and we often play for far too long particularly with puppies, which can make them over tired, nippy and restless or worse. This lockdown is leaving some people bored, be careful not to over do it with your dog, there needs to be a balance between play, eating, sleeping, resting, mental and environmental stimulation and training. Some of the signs of play has gone on to long or the dog is over aroused are as detailed in the below images from the vet behaviour team, you want to end the game way before these occur:

Obviously yes it is important to make time to play with your dogs for short periods but not at times where you need to work or do stuff or you will have a dog that pesters you all the time. Do not leave kids playing unattended watch how the children are playing with the dog. It’s important if the dog is sitting just chewing on the toy or moving away with it that no one tries to grab the toy off them

Rather than constantly playing ball which can be over arousing, be careful of football too, play other games that provide them outlets for natural behaviours such as:

  • Searching for the ball; if your dog knows a stay ask them stay, throw the ball into long grass, count to 5 then release them to find it. Leave patches of grass to grow long for this game in your garden as well.
  • Hide a toy in the house or garden and then let your dog in/out to find it. For newbies make easy.
  • Tug ensure they win, ensure they are bringing it to you, when you are trying to instigate a game remember to use the toy as if it is prey, don’t waggle it in their face prey doesn’t do that, run it along the floor in zig zag movements keeping it low. Be careful not to make the game frustrating and ensure they are bringing it back to you, don’t grab it off them if they just try to take it away its not an invitation to take it.

Like us, dogs don’t enjoy being teased, nor do they understand the difference between our toys and theirs, so it’s best to keep any toys they shouldn’t play with safely out of their reach.

Outlets for natural behaviours

Dogs need outlets for their natural behaviours and what each dog likes is different. Digging, searching, hunting, foraging, sniffing, chewing, water play are all examples of what dogs need and there are lots of ways this can be done during this period. Searching for treats or scattering their dinner is just one way to tire them out as sniffing is stimulating to some dogs and often very tiring. Enrichment done right is actually what tires dogs out, this also will help prevent your puppy/dog becoming bored, restless and getting up to mischief. Here is a great blog for 100 days of enrichment whatever you choose it should be stimulating and not frustrating, each dog is different always start with easy stuff first particularly for dogs that’s are fearful or lacking confidence.

Walks

Each person in the household can go out with the dog once a day but this should only be for the dogs who are used to it or you can continue this in the future. If there are not multiple people in the house make the walk longer and focus on really good quality sniffing and what they enjoy, this is the tiring bit. Dogs that are used to being off lead, avoid situations where they interact with other dog or people as it could mean you break the social distancing rules because you have to go and get them. Instead keep them on lead but clip them on a different point on their lead or change to a slightly longer lead to imitate being off and work on just letting your dog take the lead, as if they are off lead let them take you on an adventure. If you control the snifari walk then you may start to build in frustration and could trigger behaviour problems in the future.

Socialisation

A lot of people are worrying about the lack of socialisation for their dog or puppy at this time but I myself am really not. I think for most dogs this is actually a blessing. Firstly if you have a dog that is anxious or stressed out normally on walks, do not start taking them out more than usual particularly as people are looking different at the moment this will add to their anxiety unless your road is much quieter now. Those of you with puppies social distancing is good and I recommend this in generally anyway for all puppies, for the unsure puppies distance is important to make them feel more confident this allows them to observe at a distance without being overwhelmed and choose whether to investigate, it also allows the over friendly puppies to read people and other dogs body language from a distance when they are saying I am not interested. Puppies that are not used people you can do exercises at home where you dress up getting them used to different out fits, hats, high visibility wear, glasses, fancy dress and of course masks most dogs may find these a little odd. Do take your puppies out at different times of the day.

For those dogs that are socialites and struggle keeping a distance this is the perfect time to really work on rewarding disengaging from dogs, don’t try and get their attention when they see them just wait until they do disengage and pay them a lot with multiple treats to their mouth and ground as you are moving away, no pulling them, even if this takes time, the trick is to stay at distances where they can disengage. Have a really good game after the walk with them, these are the dogs that may need play increased slightly.

Grooming

For those of you that have a dog that needs regular grooming, ensure you do this daily particularly if you usually rely on a groomer. It’s actually a great time to help them feel comfortable with it giving them short sessions and giving the choice to stop too. Pairing treats at every step even if it’s every brush and a tasty chew at the end, always give them other options when grooming put boxes, snuffle mats and kongs with food around during the session to allow them to have breaks. This is a great way to do regular check overs with your dogs.

My final note is like us dogs will get through this crisis, things will be different and there behaviour might change too but hopefully some of the above will help prevent this. Of cause if you are having specific behaviour problems and would like some advice I and many other trainers and behaviourist are still doing telephone, virtual-video sessions for training and behaviour and I do have a five week puppy course for those who have puppies and are concerned which I am now tailoring subjects to get puppies through this period.

Check out my website http://www.johinds.com for more details.

I am signing off now, really missing seeing and interacting with all your canine companions.

Please keep safe and take care.

Jo

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.