Grey and brown long haired chihuahua being carried near a road close up
Dog Behaviour, Puppy

Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up and Carried?

Many years ago, I started writing a book called Little Dog Syndrome. I sent it to a publisher who, to my surprise, was interested but life got in the way. Iโ€™ve recently revisited it, with the intention of continuing to work on it after finishing my Rethinking Lead Walking course for professionals. (Note to self: I have a tendency to start lots of projects and not finish themโ€ฆ something Iโ€™m consciously working on this year.)

Iโ€™m actually really glad I left this until now, because my thoughts and opinions have changed. The title was never my philosophy; it was more of a hook, reflecting how small dogs are so often described. Even back then, I was writing from a mindful place, considering how differently smaller dogs are raised, handled, and managed.

One of the areas I wrote about was picking dogs up and carrying them and this is where my thinking has evolved the most.

Picking Up Small Dogs: Why I Used to Avoid It

For a long time, I believed picking up and carrying small dogs should be avoided wherever possible, other than for essential husbandry, grooming, veterinary visits through cooperative care, or safety for example, if a dog hasnโ€™t been trained around doors and you canโ€™t shut them into another room.

I felt that frequent carrying often reduced confidence rather than building it.

In some situations, I still think that can be true particularly when dogs are picked up suddenly, randomly, without warning, or without any choice.

Dogs donโ€™t lift one another. Being removed from the ground can feel startling, disorientating or frightening, especially if it happens repeatedly and unpredictably. Over time, that can create handling sensitivities, anxiety, or defensive behaviour.

How Meeting Mila the Chihuahua Changed My Perspective

My thinking began to shift initially with some uncertainty, and then changed much more after meeting my good friendโ€™s Chihuahua, Mila, when she was just a puppy.

In 30 years, I had never worked with a Chihuahua puppy. I rarely saw them in puppy classes theyโ€™re not generally brought and I mostly met them later as behaviour cases involving handling issues, barking, growling, snapping and biting.

Meeting Mila was a real eye-opener.

There is a lot of discussion around picking dogs up when they are scared. I see many caregivers doing this and I also see many small dogs actively asking to be picked up or carried. For some individuals, being lifted genuinely functions as a place of safety. Sometimes the world is a pretty overwhelming place when youโ€™re looking at it from ground level.

Why busy environments are different for tiny dogs

Mila is now an adult, fully grown, and still incredibly tiny. Her legs are as thin as my little finger. She walks alongside her caregiver, but in busy environments she can easily be missed, accidentally stepped on, or rolled over by wheels prams, scooters, bikes, trolleys.

Donโ€™t get me wrong she is swift, nimble and can move when she needs too, she lives with three children but there is still a much higher level of physical risk for dogs her size moving through busy human spaces.

She is confident and pretty resilient, though still alert and cautious, particularly of feet and sometimes hands. I can completely understand why, in busy environments, picking her up or carrying her can be necessary and protective. I do it myself. If a large, exuberant dog barrelled into Mila, she could be significantly hurt.

That context matters.

That said, I do think there are times when we pick small dogs up too quickly before anything has actually happened potentially creating worry before the dog is truly concerned.

At the same time, I can absolutely see why caregivers do itโ€ฆ because they care.

This balance between protecting and over-protecting is one of the hardest things to get right.

A theme echoed by many professionals in discussion was that carrying should not quietly become the default coping strategy. The long-term aim for most dogs is still to feel safe in their own bodies on the ground, with their caregiver as a secure base they can move towards not something they are always lifted away from.

Facial bites, hugging and why choice is critical

One common issue I see is dogs being picked up randomly to be hugged and kissed often one of the main causes of facial bites.

This can start to make dogs feel uncomfortable, this is not normal dog behaviour and actually can be mistaken for a challenge when you think of how dogs lean over one anotherโ€™s necks sometimes before a fight.

Allowing people to approach and stroke a dog when they are in your arms is, in my view, a no-no. The dog has no choice, signals are often misread, and that lack of agency is frequently why dogs bite: theyโ€™re unable to move away, itโ€™s intimidating, and hands can be really annoying.

Small dogs are also more likely to be scooped up by strangers adults and children alike often without warning. Repeated experiences like this understandably teach dogs that approaching humans are unpredictable and threatening, and they may escalate their behaviour to protect themselves.

Teaching predictable, consent-based lifting to dogs

I strongly believe there should be clear cues around picking up and carrying, so the dog has predictability and awareness that it may happen if absolutely needed ideally offered as a question:

โ€œDo you want to be picked up?โ€

With a cue such as โ€œUpโ€ taught beforehand.

I also like encouraging dogs to move onto a lap or low surface first, where possible, before lifting. This gives them more choice and control.

When lifting, itโ€™s important to support both the chest and hindquarters and keep them close to your body, so they feel secure rather than dangling or unstable.

Some caregivers teach two cues one optional (โ€œdo you want up?โ€) and one non-negotiable for safety (โ€œI have to lift you nowโ€) both predictable, calm and consistent. This clarity can be hugely reassuring, especially for dogs with pain histories or handling sensitivities.

Checking in while carrying and offering dogs the chance to walk again when theyโ€™re ready is part of that same consent-led picture.

Puppies, body language, and learning to enjoy handling

Many puppies are lifted frequently by adults, which can unintentionally signal to children that this is always appropriate too. For some puppies, being picked up or handled before they feel comfortable can quickly become overwhelming. When a puppy hasnโ€™t yet learned that human touch is safe or enjoyable, frustration can build and may show up as mouthing or nipping as a way to communicate discomfort.

Dogs donโ€™t naturally pick each other up or stroke one another, so close physical handling is something they need to learn to feel relaxed about. While there are times when lifting a puppy is necessary, itโ€™s important that these experiences are introduced gradually and thoughtfully. I encourage families to slow things down, observe the puppyโ€™s body language first, and let the puppy guide the interaction wherever possible.

Learning to recognise a clear โ€œyes pleaseโ€ such as approaching, soft muscles, and relaxed movement versus a โ€œno thank youโ€ like leaning away, freezing, or turning the head should always come before touching or lifting. Adding simple cues like โ€œupโ€ early on also helps puppies understand whatโ€™s coming next, giving them a sense of predictability and control.

Handled in this way, puppies can build positive associations with being touched, making everyday care safer and more comfortable for everyone involved.

Supporting sensitive small dogs without flooding them

I work with many clients who have sensitive small dogs, many of whom did not want to go for walks, with multiple factors influencing this.

In some cases particularly with rescue dogs with little known history, or very sensitive vaccinated puppies or adolescents I may recommend reintroducing them to the world from their arms, much like we would with an unvaccinated puppy. This is only if the dog finds being carried comforting and itโ€™s been taught.

Another option, of course, is a carrier for smaller dogs introduced as a safe place in a positive way.

Being held or carried can allow dogs to observe from a sensible distance, taking information in through their nose and other senses without being flooded. This gives them space to process what they are seeing, hearing and smelling, rather than being pushed straight into situations theyโ€™re not ready to cope with on the ground.

Evolution didnโ€™t create these tiny dogs we did, through breeding so I think itโ€™s our job to support them in ways that work best for them.

We can then progress crouching down when the dog shows some interest in exploring a little, with the care giver staying static so the dog can choose to come back to their human for safety, using the caregiverโ€™s legs as protection. Still setting up for success.

Other Dogs, Jumping Up and Environmental Awareness

Iโ€™m also very mindful of where lifting happens.

From another dogโ€™s perspective, seeing a dog in someoneโ€™s arms is unusual and can create curiosity, confusion, frustration and sometimes jumping up as they investigate.

That risk is part of the equation too.

As confidence builds, I often look to transfer that sense of safety to crouching as previously mentioned, protective positioning, and sometimes a trained middle position between the caregiverโ€™s feet, depending on the dog ensuring however they do not feel trapped.

Itโ€™s vital that the care giver becomes the dogs safe place, which is particularly important off-lead, so a worried dogs learn to run towards their caregiver rather than hiding or bolting for home.

Long dog walks, fatigue and knowing when enough is enough

Mila goes many places with her caregiver. Her tiny legs, our long stride and her slower pace can make walking exhausting, I see many small dogs literally having to jog everywhere because of their care givers pace.

While Iโ€™m a strong advocate that walks should be about the dog or at least cooperative at both ends of the lead she also has a carrier she loves and uses as a safe place when walks are long, rushed or particularly busy.

Some small dogs are incredibly fit and cover huge distances. Others fatigue far sooner than people realise, and pain doesnโ€™t always show itself clearly at first. Learning to read those subtle signs slowing, lagging, seeking to be picked up matters.

Sometimes carrying for a short stretch across rough ground, crowds or hazards is simply sensible management.

It depends: Individual Dogs, preferences and history

A consistent theme from discussion was that, like people, dogs have preferences.

Some actively ask to be picked up climbing into laps, leaning in, offering their side or backing into position. Others strongly dislike it and would far rather deal with the world on their own four feet.

How handling is introduced, how touch is part of daily life, pain or physical discomfort, past experiences, and temperament all shape those preferences.

Some dogs learn that being lifted makes them feel safe. Others learn that it feels intrusive or frightening.

Our job is to listen.

Soโ€ฆ Should Little Dogs Be Picked Up?

Since meeting Mila, Iโ€™ve looked at small dog management in a completely different light.

For me, it isnโ€™t about rigid rules.

Itโ€™s about:

  • Safety
  • Predictability
  • Consent where possible
  • Thoughtful handling
  • Supporting confidence
  • And building resilience over time

Picking up and carrying can be a valid and useful place of safety for some dogs when used deliberately, compassionately, and alongside skill-building on the ground.

Individual dogs, histories, environments and caregiver skills all matter enormously.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

How You Affect Your Dog

Dogs are little mirrors they watch us constantly and can reflect our behaviour. If you are excited and optimistic you often see your dogs energy increase they might get a little excited and playful. A classic way of seeing this is when we tell our dog they are a good boy/girl this is not about the words initially as they do not speak our language, its about the way we deliver the words and how we behave when we do it is positive happy energy. How we feel, our energy, and our confidence all directly influence our dogs. 

Dogs are highly attuned to our body language, tone of voice, and even subtle changes in our energy and hormone levels through their amazing senses.

If you are someone whose energy is generally heightened and youโ€™re constantly โ€œon the go,โ€ finding it difficult to relax, sit, or switch off, you may pace, feel restless or impatient, and struggle to wind down or sleep. Dogs can often mirror this arousal, which can make them more alert, more reactive to noises, and less able to rest even when tired, puppies generally will want to be close to care givers for a number of weeks and if this is our general state some puppies will not be getting the amount of rest they need. This can lead to increased connection-seeking behaviours, whining, over-arousal, over tiredness and unwanted behaviours.

If we feel stressed, restless, or anxious, or our moods are inconsistent or up and down, it can affect our dogs in a variety of ways. Puppies and adult dogs are highly sensitive to our energy and often mirror how we feel. They may:

  • Mirror our anxiety โ€“ showing increased restlessness, whining, being more clingy
  • Become defensive โ€“ in puppies, this can show as increased biting or mouthing, zoomies, growling, barking, stiff body language, or backing away or evening snapping
  • Try to take a protective role โ€“ like warning things away, even when they arenโ€™t confident enough.
  • Become hesitant or less confident in new experiences.
  • Show appeasement behaviours โ€“ such as jumping up, nudging, or licking repeatedly, in an attempt to calm us or resolve tension.

All of these behaviours can sometimes increase our frustration, making us think the dog is misbehaving, when in fact they are responding to our own behaviour and coping to uncertainty. Understanding this helps us stay patient and aware, and allows us to respond calmly, setting our puppies up for confidence, trust, and positive experiences

Conversely, when we are calm, relaxed and consistent, it helps dogs feel safe, relaxed, and confident, creating a more positive and trusting relationship.

This isnโ€™t about being perfect or beating yourself up when you are having a bad day. Itโ€™s about awareness, so you can setup both you and your dog up for success. Even small shifts in your energy can make a big difference. Puppiesโ€™ brains are wired to read human social cues from around 3โ€“4 weeks old, paying attention long before we think they are.

Puppies arenโ€™t blank slates either. Genetics, early handling, and their motherโ€™s environment shape their temperament. Some may naturally be more nervous or cautious, so itโ€™s not all about how we bring them up, our behaviour alone doesnโ€™t erase their past, but it can shape how they respond and grow. Being aware of how we act around them is very important as they are developing and when we are socialising them and exposing them to their new world. Calm, confident, and consistent energy helps dogs feel safe, reassured, and willing to engage. Research shows that puppies with sensitive temperaments are especially influenced by caregiver behaviour, learning more quickly when interactions are predictable and positive. Puppies are especially sensitive between 3โ€“12 weeks of age, a key socialisation period where early experiences have a strong and lasting influence. Calm, positive guidance during this time helps build confidence and sets them up for success as they grow.

In the wild, puppies look to their mother for guidance. If a puppy starts barking, it glances back to see her reaction. Calm signals like grooming, relaxing, or simply observing tell the puppy there is no cause for concern. If the mother is tense or scared, the puppy responds accordingly. Calm signals = relaxation; tense signals = concern.

As caregivers, we naturally step into that parental role. When a puppy seems unsure or worried and we respond with a concerned expression, or we scoop them up too quickly before they have had a chance to recover or approach us they can feel more uneasy. Of course, we always want to be a safe place for them to come to when they choose if they are genuinely frightened or struggling, offering comfort builds trust and them seeing we are not concerned will in turn will help them learn. Its still about working at their pace if we pressure them into situations before theyโ€™re ready or fail to support them when they really need it, it can affect their confidence and even future recall, because they may not see us as their go-to source of safety.

This is also why rushing to stop a puppy barking especially because weโ€™re worried about neighbours can backfire. Barking is often a natural response to something sudden or surprising. If we react with anxiety or tension, they learn there is something to be worried about. Staying neutral helps them understand the world is safe and thereโ€™s no need for alarm.

Feelings are contagious our dogs read us more than we realise, just like we pick up on someone elseโ€™s bad mood. Staying steady, calm, and available shows them theyโ€™re safe and supported.

If you nature is a certain way thatโ€™s ok, sometimes we you might be better at being the one that provides comfort or fun, you just might want to introduce somethings with your puppy being in the arms of the calmer handler in the house. You will see over time that your dogs may be calmer with one person in the house more than the other, thatโ€™s due to their general energy. Some dogs, whether or adults respond more to whoever is clear, calm, confident and consistent. Dogs are social learners; they take cues from humans just as they would from their littermates or mother, helping them decide how to react to new situations this is important information when you are taking them out and about. Dogs thrive under predictable routines and clear communication. Being mindful of your energy helps dogs trust and relax, and ensuring good experiences.

What matters most is awareness and checking in with yourself. Itโ€™s not about being perfect or suppressing your feelings dogs can tell when youโ€™re faking it. Itโ€™s about pausing and noticing, especially when managing your dogโ€™s behaviour or supporting them after a reaction to something in the environment. Training works best when weโ€™re in a good state of mind. If youโ€™re tired, frustrated, or anxious, pause, breathe, and reset stress and worry always show up in your patience. Taking breaks isnโ€™t a weakness; itโ€™s a tool that helps both you and your dog. Even a short pause can stop tension building. Give yourself permission to step back, especially with young puppies, and donโ€™t hesitate to ask for support when you need it.

Research shows that dogs supported by calm, confident handlers become more resilient in new places, around noises, and with other dogs. Your energy matters just as much as your training or your voice. By staying aware, calm, and consistent, you help your dog grow in confidence, build trust, and feel secure. Itโ€™s not about getting everything right itโ€™s about being present and willing to try again, doing your best with awareness and care, and knowing that if you have a tough day, youโ€™re human and thereโ€™s always another chance. One of the lovely parts of this process is that the mindfulness you offer your dog often helps calm your own nervous system too. Many of us bring dogs into our lives for support, and the beautiful thing is that we can offer that same sense of safety back to them.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Navigating the teenage years: Understanding your dogs adolescent phase

Your puppy is not so little anymore and suddenly you might notice behaviours that feel frustrating or confusing. If this sounds familiar, your dog could be entering the adolescent phase, a natural but often challenging time for both dogs and their guardians.

What is the adolescent dog phase?

Adolescence in dogs typically begins around six months and can continue until 18 months, though for larger breeds it may last up to three years. During this time, your dogs brain is undergoing significant development, particularly in areas that affect stress response, emotional regulation and decision making. This can make even simple activities, like meeting new people or other dogs, navigating busy environments or following basic cues feel overwhelming.

Many behaviours you thought you had under control as a puppy chewing, jumping, ignoring requests, pulling on the lead can resurface during adolescence. Research also shows that a high proportion of dogs surrendered to rescue centres are within this age range, highlighting just how challenging this developmental stage can be for guardians.

Whatโ€™s happening in your dogs brain?

During adolescence, the connection between your dogs brains emotional centre which manages decision making and impulse control, temporarily weaken. This can result in:

  • Increased Impulsiveness and risk taking behaviours
  • Heightened fear responses or sensitivity to stimuli
  • Difficulty coping with everyday experiences such as meeting new dogs greeting people or walking in busy areas.

Understanding that these changes are neurological rather than behavioural โ€œproblemsโ€ helps guardians respond with patience and empathy instead of frustration.

Changes in behaviour on walks

As dogs move into adolescence their relationship with sniffing and scent communication often changes significantly particularly in males. Hormonal shifts heighten their awareness of scent marks and trigger an instinctive need to investigate and respond, which can make them rushed and can exacerbate pulling on the lead. Guardians often notice their adolescent dog suddenly sniffing and marking constantly or even licking specific spots where other dogs have urinated. This behaviour is not mischief its biology. Sniffing and licking allows dogs to interpret complex information about other dogs identity, health, sex and emotional state. For males its a key part of developing social awareness and confidence but it can also make walks feel frantic with them pulling frequently to gather information.

Female dogs can show similar shifts in sniffing patterns, especially as hormonal cycles begin to regulate. They may become more selective or cautious about other dogs, spend longer investigating scents or show temporary changes in sociability. Just like in males, there behaviours reflect developmental and hormonal transitions, not defiance.

In both sexes, sniffing plays a vital role in emotional regulation. It helps them process their environment, release tension, and feel safe. By allowing time for structured sniffing, caregivers can support calmer, more confident walking experiences, even during this hormonally charged phase.

Supporting your adolescent dog

Relationships between care givers and their dogs can really breakdown in this phase due to lack of understanding and its not unusual for dogs to become unsure and at times defensive in this phase as the care givers mood becomes unpredictable due to the frustration of it all. With the right guidance, patience, and management, you can help your dog navigate adolescence and emerge as a confident, well adjusted adult. Here are some key tips:

  • Keep routines consistent, but flexible enough to accommodate emotional ups and downs
  • Prioritise decompression, quiet sniff walks, enrichment, calm time away form stimulation and even days off from walking can help.
  • Avoid punishment or excessive control this can increase anxiety and frustration
  • Use supportive equipment such as a well fitted harness and longer lead to encourage exploration (not a retractable lead)
  • Focus on connection not control strengthen your relationship through trust based interactions this will make a bigger difference than drilling obedience cues.

Adolescent can feel chaotic, but it is a vital stage of development where your dog learns how to navigate the world. With understanding and gentle guidance, this phase can strengthen your bond and set the foundation for a lifetime of calm confident companionship.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Pain and behaviour

Mediator Dogs: Often vital but misunderstood

In group settings, some dogs naturally fall unto the role of mediator. These are the dogs who step in when arousal runs too high, trying to keep things calmer and safer for everyone. They often look like the โ€œfun policeโ€, breaking up the party.

Sadly, they are often misunderstood. Instead of being recognised for their role, they are seen as disruptive and may even be asked to leave day care or a dog walking group. But what looks like โ€œproblem behaviourโ€ can actually be a dog working hard to regulate the group.

What mediator dogs are (and are not)

  • They are not the same as fearful or anxious dogs who hide, snap defensively, or struggle to cope nor those whose subtle signals may have been missed over time and are using growling snapping or biting as a defensive mechanism.
  • They maybe the ones who chase the dog that is chasing the ball, not for the ball but in an attempt to slow the dog down when arousal is running high.
  • They might bark at a dog that hasnโ€™t responded to subtler signals when they have had enough but are otherwise very sociable with dogs.
  • They may break up rough or high speed play by barking, intercepting or chasing the players.
  • They sometimes step in during human to human embraces or energetic contact, barking or wedging themselves between people. Often labelled as โ€œjealousyโ€ it is more likely the dog perceives there is potential conflict arising. Dogs do not embrace the way we do, so a hug can be misread as conflict.

Important to rule out first:

Of course if a dog is acting completely out of character and there has been no build up, it is always important to rule out anything physical. When dogs become less tolerant of certain types of interaction such as other dogs sniffing their back end or approaching their head, its vital to first consider discomfort.

  • Interestingly I am often contacted about these behaviours around the age of 2 or 3, when dogs mature but at this time growth plates have generally closed which can highlight discomfort.
  • Joint pain, impacted anal glands (often linked to gut health), or teeth, or ear pain can be just some of the reasons that a dog may have become more irritable or defensive.
  • These factors need ruling out before we assume the behaviour is purely about group dynamics.

Things to consider if you live with, socialise with or work with groups of dogs

Some dogs who attend group walks with other owners, dog walkers or day care from a young age naturally shift into this role as they mature. It may be a progression of personality to manage conflict or arousal, or it may be that they have tolerated things for a long time and finally reached a tipping point.

Instead of automatically excluding dogs who act this way (depending on the severity of the reaction of course), it can help to pause and ask what they might be communicating:

  • Is the group often becoming overstimulated?
  • Could their โ€œStress bucketโ€ be full from other factors, like a rushed vehicle journey, lack of proper rest, rushed walks with very little processing?
  • Has this behaviour cropped up with other dogs in the group before?

If a dogs has been labelled as disruptive or you notice these patterns it does not mean they are badly behaved, they may be signalling stress, frustration or simply working hard to regulate the group. Acting as the referee too often can build stress over time and escalate into growling, snapping and lunging.

Is there science behind it?

While โ€œmediator dogโ€ isnโ€™t a scientific label, the concept is supported by ethnological research:

  • Third party intervention (โ€œpolicingโ€) has been documented in wolves and primates, where individuals step in to prevent conflict. Some studies suggest domestic dogs do something similar.
  • Play research shows dogs adapt their play signals depending on their partnerโ€™s responses, showing awareness of group dynamics.
  • Conflict management is recognised across species, where individuals actively prevent or resolve tension.

Some dogs and their wild relatives, like wolves, have been shown under certain conditions to make up after conflict, comfort each other and get help from a third dog to calm things down, especially if theyโ€™re very social.

Of course, many factors can drive behaviour and a full behavioural assessment may be needed to untangle the picture for an individual dog. But by recognising the possible role of mediator dogs, we can better support them, appreciate the work they are doing and create safer, calmer group environments.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

When Getting a Dog Feels Harder Than You Expected

Bringing a dog into your life is often portrayed as joyful, healing, and wholesome and it can be however what we donโ€™t talk about enough is the emotional crash that can come shortly after.

The sleepless nights. The constant worry. The guilt of not feeling the way you thought you would. For many new dog guardians, this reality hits hard and itโ€™s rarely discussed.

This blog is for those in the thick of it: feeling overwhelmed, questioning their decision, or simply exhausted from trying to โ€œget it right.โ€ Letโ€™s talk about why it feels so hard and why that doesnโ€™t mean youโ€™re failing.

Many people bring a puppy or rescue dog into their lives hoping for emotional comfort especially those navigating anxiety, depression, grief, or isolation. Dogs are often seen as a way to:

  • Get outside more
  • Build a routine
  • Ease feelings of loneliness
  • Provide a sense of purpose

But hereโ€™s the truth: in the beginning, a dog can amplify anxiety before it soothes it.

What often happens is this: in trying to provide the best for your new dog, you find yourself spiralling into stress. Constantly questioning your choices, reading every article, googling everything and watching video after video trying to do everything โ€œright.โ€ And when it still feels hard? The guilt creeps in.

Thereโ€™s a name for this: the Puppy Blues or Rescue Dog Blues.

And itโ€™s a very real emotional crash that many people experience in the first days, weeks, or even months after bringing a dog home.

You might feel:

  • Overwhelmed, anxious and unprepared
  • Exhausted from lack of sleep or relentless demands
  • Disconnected from your new dog
  • Frustrated that things arenโ€™t โ€œclickingโ€
  • Guilty for not enjoying it

This doesnโ€™t make you a bad dog guardian. It makes you human and deeply caring.

Your anxiety and worry are signs of nurture, of wanting to get it right. Often, these very traits make people more attuned to their dogโ€™s body language and needs.

But itโ€™s also about balance. When care tips into hypervigilance or self-doubt, it can become emotionally draining for you, and for your dog.

Itโ€™s true that dogs can positively influence mental health thereโ€™s a growing body of evidence showing how their presence can lower cortisol, ease loneliness, and boost routine.

However that benefit doesnโ€™t always show up straight away. Especially with puppies or newly rescued dogs, the early stages are intense:

  • Teething
  • Sleep deprivation
  • Toilet training
  • Socialisation pressures (โ€œI need to do everything right in the first 16 weeks!โ€)
  • Managing fear or reactivity, growling, snapping and in some dogs biting

All while youโ€™re also adjusting physically, emotionally, socially.

Sometimes, anxiety gets worse before it gets better.

Due to strict rehoming criteria in many UK-based rescues, people often turn to overseas organisations particularly in Romania and other parts of Eastern Europe. While these adoptions are often well-intended and full of heart, they can come with unique challenges.

Many of these dogs have:

  • Grown up as free-roaming street dogs
  • Had little to no experience living in homes
  • Spent long periods in shelter kennels
  • Missed out on early positive socialisation

Integrating them into UK life with leads, closed doors, traffic, visitors, and strict routines can be incredibly stressful for both the dog and the family. Without proper support, these dogs often bounce back into rescue, caught in a heartbreaking loop.

There are ethical rescues out there doing brilliant work, both in the UK and abroad but itโ€™s vital to do your research. Choose a rescue that:

  • Offers post-adoption behavioural support
  • Matches dogs to homes carefully
  • Understands the background and likely challenges of the dogs
  • Will be honest about what the dog needs, not just what people want to hear

There is a growing body of research showing how human mental health influences dog behaviour. Dogs are incredibly sensitive to our emotions they may mirror stress, become unsettled by unpredictability, or even change how they respond to training.

But that doesnโ€™t mean you are to blame. It means:

  • You matter in this picture too
  • Your wellbeing is part of the process
  • Self-compassion is a crucial piece of helping your dog feel safe

Itโ€™s important to be aware of how your emotional state might be influencing your dogโ€™s behaviour. Recognising this isnโ€™t about blame itโ€™s about understanding the bigger picture, and getting the support you may need to help you feel more confident, grounded, and capable.

In fact, people with anxiety often make brilliant dog guardians. You may notice small shifts in body language that others miss. You may advocate fiercely for your dogโ€™s comfort. You may prioritise consent, choice, and ethical training.

Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength. Your anxiety comes from a place of deep care. With the right support, that can become your greatest strength.

Many people wait until theyโ€™re at breaking point before asking for help often out of pride, fear of judgement, or the belief they should โ€œjust knowโ€ how to cope, early support can prevent small worries from becoming large ones.

You donโ€™t have to do this alone.

Every dog is different. Every life stage brings something new. Even experienced owners and dog professionals can be thrown and thatโ€™s okay.

As a behaviourist and trainer, my role is about far more than sit/stay.

Itโ€™s about helping you breathe again. Helping you feel less alone. Helping you feel like youโ€™ve got this because with the right help, you do.

You deserve support, too.

Whether thatโ€™s:

  • Friends or family you can offload to
  • Ethical, compassionate trainers and behaviourists
  • Doggy daycare or walkers who understand your dogโ€™s needs
  • Online or local groups where you can be real about how hard it feels

Creating your own support circle doesnโ€™t just benefit your mental health it increases the likelihood of long-term success for your dog too.

Asking for help doesnโ€™t mean youโ€™ve failed. It means you care enough to try.

Letโ€™s say this clearly, because it matters:

If you are. not coping, that doesnโ€™t make you weak or heartless.

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, it becomes clear that you and your dog are not the right match emotionally, practically, or environmentally. Rehoming or returning a dog is never easy, but it can sometimes be the kindest option for everyone involved.

If you reach that point, please:

  • Donโ€™t suffer in silence
  • Reach out to the rescue or a qualified behaviour professional
  • Work with organisations who will put your dogโ€™s welfare and emotional needs first
  • Take time to find a rescue that understands your dogโ€™s breed, background, or type and offers ethical behaviour support to help you succeed

This is not failure itโ€™s responsible and compassionate decision-making, however try not to make a decision like this when youโ€™re in the middle of emotional overwhelm. Take a breath, reach out for support, and make the choice from a grounded place.

Final Thoughts: Youโ€™re Not Failing. Youโ€™re Finding Your Way.

If youโ€™re reading this with tears in your eyes, feeling like you are in over your head please hear this:

You are not alone.

You are not failing.

You are not broken.

You are doing something big, new, and incredibly emotional. Itโ€™s normal for it to feel messy and hard at first.

With the right support, the chaos quiets. The relationship grows. The joy returns not because things are perfect, but because youโ€™ve allowed space for grace, for growth, and for being human.

If youโ€™re struggling with your new dog or puppy and need compassionate, practical help, I offer behaviour and training support thatโ€™s tailored to both ends of the lead.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Food and Training: Are We Over-Restricting Our Dogs?

Eating food and drinking water are fundamental needs that every human, animal, and species is entitled to. Yet, when it comes to dogs, we often place restrictions on these basic necessities asking them to wait, building excessive durations before they can eat, or managing their food intake so rigidly that itโ€™s only allowed during training sessions. Is this fair? No wonder we see so many dogs with eating problems, resource guarding issues or nutritional deficiencies.

The Labrador Dilemma

Take Labradors, for example a breed famously labelled as โ€œgreedyโ€ or willing to eat anything. While studies have shown that some Labradors possess a gene mutation that impacts their ability to feel satiated, we must also consider whether human actions play a role. Labrador owners, concerned about the breedโ€™s tendency to become overweight, often restrict food or opt for low-calorie diets. These foods, high in carbohydrates but lacking in fulfilling properties, may leave dogs perpetually hungry.

Are we contributing to the problem by creating environments where food is restricted, over-managed, or insufficiently nourishing? Is it truly hunger caused by genetics, or is it a response to human-imposed limitations?

Food as a Training Tool

Using food in training is common and effective, and I use food and play as rewards too. But I ensure we never use a dogโ€™s meal for training purposes and will give them food without asking them to do something every time and will give them a snack or their meal when I am eating as well, you wouldnโ€™t eat in front of someone else without offering them something too. Dogs deserve to enjoy their meals without conditions attached, we just have to ensure the food we do use for training is accounted for as part of their daily calorie needs.

I focus my training on safety and building positive associations. I do generally reserve special foods something they love for training requirement to keep it exciting and rewarding which I still question my self about however I want to ensure I do not infringe on their basic right to eat freely.

Drawing Parallels with Children

Imagine if we treated children the same way we treat dogs when it comes to food. What if children had to โ€œearnโ€ their meals or were denied food for not meeting certain expectations? Social services would undoubtedly intervene, recognising such practices as neglectful and unethical. Yet, with dogs, this level of control is not only accepted but encouraged in many training circles.

This dynamic raises questions about the ethics of using food as leverage. Could this approach contribute to issues such as fussiness, food refusal, or digestive problems in dogs? Some dogs go days without eating or are spoon-fed or hand-fed by anxious owners. Is it possible that our own anxiety around food is perpetuating these issues?

Balancing Food and Training Needs

Of course, dogs must adapt to human lifestyles and societal expectations. Food is a practical and often essential tool for training behaviours that help dogs navigate our world safely and appropriately. But we must be mindful:

  • Are the behaviours weโ€™re training necessary for their well-being and to keep them and others safe or are they imposed solely to fit human convenience or entertainment.
  • Respecting their autonomy: Dogs, like all living beings, have their own preferences and needs. While food can be a powerful motivator, we should also respect their space and allow them to make choices. When we constantly use food to guide their actions, we risk diminishing their ability to make independent decisions and express natural behaviour.
  • The effect of food-based training on their relationship with us: Dogs form bonds based on trust and connection, not just what they can get in exchange for performing tasks. If food becomes the primary currency for every interaction, we risk shifting the relationship to one based on transactions rather than genuine companionship.
  • Not overshadowing other forms of enrichment: Training is important, but itโ€™s equally crucial to consider the other ways we enrich our dogsโ€™ lives. Mental stimulation, social interactions, physical exercise, and opportunities for play all contribute to a dogโ€™s well-being. If food is the main tool we use, we may neglect these other important aspects of a dogโ€™s development and happiness.


A Call to Rethink

As dog professionals and dog owners, itโ€™s time to reconsider our approach to food and training. Dogs are not here to entertain us or live in ways entirely contrary to their instincts. They deserve to have their basic needs and natural behaviours where possible met without excessive restriction or exploitation.

Letโ€™s aim to build confidence and trust through mindful practices that respect their nature. By focusing on safety, positive associations, and rewards that are meaningful yet balanced, we can create training experiences that enhance our dogsโ€™ well-being without compromising their right to simply enjoy being dogs.

By rethinking how we use food, we can help dogs live healthier, happier livesโ€”free from unnecessary stress and anxiety around their most basic need.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Puppy and Adult Dog Introduction

Bringing a new puppy into your home is an exciting time, but itโ€™s important to ensure a smooth introduction with your adult dog. A careful, step-by-step process can help both dogs feel comfortable, safe, and ready to bond. The following short guide provides practical tips to manage their first meetings and build a positive relationship between your new puppy and your resident adult dog.

Pre-arrival

Ask the breeder to provide a blanket the puppy has slept with to bring home (if you can get this in advance even better) you can introduce this to your resident dog to let them sniff and reward them straight after, to start pairing it with something positive do this a number of times. Take something of your older dogs with you when you collect your puppy that your resident dog has laid on, when you go to pick puppy up so they can start getting used to one another scent, this is called scent swapping.

Puppy safe space

Ensure you have prepared a safe space for your puppy, a puppy-proofed area with baby gates or a pen. When you get home ensure the older dog is in a separate room at first with someone if possible. Place any familiar items from the breeder in the pen before your puppy explores it. Let the puppy investigate their safe area first with the adult dog in a different room, letting them process, this lets the puppy know where to find their bed, water, food (if they havenโ€™t eaten yet, remove food before the introduction), and toilet mat first.

Have one person sit in the pen with the puppy, letting them climb on their lap if needed, but itโ€™s important to remain relaxed and calm to avoid showing any concern, no over fussing puppy.

Take something an item that smells of the puppy into the older dog and let them sniff the item and then give them a tasty treat.

Bring the adult dogs in on a lead so they do not charge at the pen and frighten the puppy, let them investigate in their own time. If the puppy panics have the older dog at a slightly further distance.

This setup allows the dogs to see and sniff each other through the pen without direct contact first. Reward calm behavior with verbal praise.

This gradual introduction gives the adult dog space to retreat if needed, while also allowing the puppy to adjust if they feel unsure.

Watch Body Language

Look for signs of stress (e.g., lip licking, yawning, turning away, stiff body language, cowering, bowing and barking) or playfulness, loose body (e.g., wagging tails or play bows). End the interaction if either dog seems particularly stressed or uncomfortable (e.g teeth bearing going at one another in a threatening manner). Observe how they interact through the pen initially.

Out of pen introduction

Once you have observed behaviour and feel they are relaxed with one another.

Allow short periods of supervised interaction indoors, gradually increasing their time together as they become more comfortable.

Avoid Resource Guarding

Remove toys, food, and chews during initial interactions to prevent disputes. Feed the puppy and adult dog separately in completely different rooms.

Avoid over-fussing either dogโ€”thereโ€™s no need to overcompensate by giving the adult dog extra attention.

Respect Both Dogsโ€™ Needs

Do not force interaction. Allow the adult dog to set boundaries. Itโ€™s normal for an adult dog to correct the puppy with a growl or snap if the puppy becomes too boisterous.

Provide Escape Routes

Ensure the adult dog has access to a quiet space where they can retreat if they need a break. The puppy should also have a safe area to relax and decompress.

Play

Play should be balanced see the signs to watch out for

Be Patient

The relationship may take time to develop. Consistency and calm management are key to fostering a positive bond between the puppy and the adult dog.

Dog Behaviour

Dog play: Do you know what warning signs to watch out for?

I frequently encounter dogs that once socialised well in the park as puppies but started barking and lunging at other dogs as they grew older. Similarly, some dogs initially thrived in doggy day care, only to be banned later for barking or snapping at other dogs.

Understanding the different types of dog play is crucial for managing interactions and preventing conflicts, even with dogs that are familiar with one another.

Always observe other dogsโ€™ body language from a distance before letting a dog approach. Dogs that look away or ignore a dog are not interested in playing or interacting. On play dates, start with a sniffy calm walk together before short play sessions, keeping arousal levels manageable and giving breaks and rest to prevent escalation, do not stand around for long periods, keep moving with the dogs, often dogs or at least one of the dogs will want to leave much sooner than we do.

Avoid play with balls/frisbees or repetitive chasing not only can this lead to injuries, it causes over arousal, conflict and does not hone in to natural behaviours for any dog, dogs would never do this naturally, together they would rough house or tug. This activity only focuses on a part of the predatory chase instinct, leaving the dogs in this heightened state, which can lead to trouble and discourage natural behaviour with one another. However, thatโ€™s a topic for another blog!

Overly excitable dogs, often have other things that need to be addressed in their life to help calm their interactions with other dogs however they also can be over the top as they are finding the situation too much.

A friendly dog should not be allowed to run up to a nervous or on lead dog.

Healthy Play:

  • Play is reciprocal, with a give-and-take dynamic.
  • Chase games are balanced, with dogs taking turns.
  • Dogs have relaxed, sometimes โ€œgoofyโ€ body language.

A โ€œplay bowโ€ might indicate readiness to play, especially among familiar dogs, but it can also be a way to try and increase distance from another dog, sometimes accompanied by barking which is misunderstood by many.

Cautionary Play:

  • Intervene before it escalates.
  • Stop play if one dog is consistently picked on or more than one dog gangs up on another.
  • Prevent tugging or dragging by the collar, harness, or body parts.
  • Interrupt if one dog tries to hide or escape from mismatched chasing.
  • One sided chase, perform a consent test by holding the chaser to see if the other dog still wants to play.

If there are multiple dogs and one of the dogs are barking at the other dogs that are playing or trying to get in between. Its likely the play is too much and the dog is trying to calm the situations before conflict arises, sadly a high percentage of these dogs, are often the dogs that are kicked out of day care when in fact they are trying to keep the peace, they are not the fun police. If a dog is the chaser, recall them positively; if they donโ€™t respond, keep them on a lead unless they can reliably come when called.

If a dog is being targeted, intervene or ask the other owner to intervene or remove the dog from the situation, rewarding them for walking away from conflict. Consistent issues might lead a dog to use aggression as a defence and start to not enjoy the presence of other dogs.

This is why itโ€™s important that day care centres and walkers manage interaction carefully and the dogs should be supervised well. All of the areas they are kept in have comfortable rest areas inside and out, calming enrichment that include sensory plants and outlets for natural behaviour. Bare baron spaces or with limited items and flat field space can be under stimulating, lead to pacing and confinement stress and can cause over the top play with other dogs, unbalancing the group dynamics.

Unacceptable Play:

  • Watch for neck or body biting and grabbing.
  • Prevent barking in another dogโ€™s face.
  • Humping often indicates the play has gone on too long or they are trying to calm another dog down.
  • Head-over-shoulders stance is confrontational and should be interrupted.
  • Body slamming and pinning another dog to the ground are unacceptable.
  • Prevent dogs from forming intimidating groups around another dog.
  • Air snaps indicate a desire for more distance and should be heeded.
  • Avoid unsupervised play.

In any of these scenarios, intervene or recall the dog if play becomes inappropriate or if other owners donโ€™t control their dogs. Reward the dog for returning to you.

If a dog cannot be reliably recalled, use a long-lead and practise recall with a harness. After recalling a dog from play, allow them to calm down before resuming. If an incident occurs, limit further interactions and consider ending the walk early.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Pain and behaviour

The silent sufferers: Understanding pain in active dogs

Dogs that are busy, overexcitable, or restless are often overlooked when it comes to discomfort and pain. In the park, these dogs may run around off-lead like mad, are maybe play-obsessed, might constantly pull on the lead, may not nap during the day, shift frequently during sleep and are generally just on the go constantly.

Surely, if they can do all that, there’s no way they can be in pain, right?

Like us, dogs manage discomfort in many different ways

During my pregnancy, I experienced symphysis pubic dysfunction, where my pelvis started to move unevenly, I was more susceptible to this due to other conflicting conditions I have, including hypermobility syndrome.

Although I’ve had physio for the condition, I still have discomfort in my pelvis when stationary or lying on my back. However, when I continue to move, the pain disappears, and I can walk for miles.

Vet examination

During veterinary exams, dogs like this often do not show pain when examined, if the vet even gets a chance to examine them. Add any type of fear response on top of this when being handled, and the vet has no chance of feeling or seeing the discomfort.

When feeling fearful or overly excited, adrenaline is released, causing blood vessels to constrict, and diverting blood to major muscle groups like the heart and lungs. This surge in adrenaline reduces the body’s sensitivity to pain, allowing you to keep running from or confronting danger even if injured.

Black and white border collar panting being examined by vet

Many working breeds get overlooked when it comes to pain; these dogs were bred to work, and many would continue to do so until they dropped, if not managed carefully. I have worked with many who remained extremely active despite severe hip and elbow dysplasia, broken bones, cruciate tears, dislocations and more.

Effects of repetitive ball or toy play

Typically these are the breeds many people try and tire out with repetitive ball or toy-chasing games, believing that it helps with their working needs. Repeated back-and-forth chasing does not provide a natural outlet for any dog breed or type. It may hone into the chase part of a predatory sequence but thatโ€™s it. Spaniels for example are bred to flush prey into the sky and then retrieve the game that has been shot, Collies are bred to stop and start movement slowly and concisely. Jack Russells are bred to chase prey down but they either chase and the prey gets away or they chase and are successful in catching it and shaking them.

The way humans play leaves dogs in this adrenaline-fuelled state which makes them more over aroused and harder to tire. It increases adrenaline levels which can then become addictive looking like the dog is loving it but the dog is unable to switch off, which can then lead to unnatural obsessive behaviour in some dogs. It can take many hours for adrenaline levels to drop. Adrenaline, also known as epinephrine, is a stress hormone, repeated elevation of this, can increase anxiety and stress levels in other areas of your dogโ€™s life.

Greyhound on grass twisting to get ball

When a dog is already in pain, certain behaviours can become addictive because elevated adrenaline levels can decrease the perception of pain. This reduction in pain perception may lead the dog to seek out activities that trigger the release of adrenaline, creating a cycle where the behaviour becomes addictive as a means of temporarily alleviating discomfort.

Chase games particularly ball play put dogs at very high risk of injury in the dog’s limbs, particularly the ligaments in the toes, wrists, and knees and when the ball bounces in unpredictable directions, it also poses a danger of injuries to other parts of the body, including bones, ligaments, joints, and muscles. Learn more about the effects of ball throwing in dogs.

Dogs are stoic, which is why conducting Dynamic Dog assessments is so important and has helped thousands of dogs get the support they need.

Either contact me or look for a Dynamic Dog practitioner in your area.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

Why dog training should NOT involve punishment

Increases fear and anxiety in dogs

Punishment can cause fear, anxiety, and stress in dogs, temporarily suppressing behaviours without addressing underlying issues, potentially leading to further problems.

Breaks down trust between you and your dog

Punishment can weaken the bond and trust between you and your dog. Your dog can start associating you with negative experiences, causing a deterioration in your relationship.

It can lead to aggression

Physical punishments or severe corrections can result in your dog becoming understandably defensive or fearful, potentially leading them to use aggressive behaviour towards you or others.

What is considered punishment?

Correcting your dog with the lead

Applying force on the lead like tugging or yanking to discourage unwanted behaviour.

Shouting at your dog

Using harsh words or tones to express disapproval along with intimidating body language.

Punishing dog equipment

Using water sprays, pet correctors, shake cans, shock collars,  choke chain, slip leads, spray collars or any equipment that scares or causes discomfort for the dog to deter behaviour.


Physical force

Using hitting, slapping, tapping, pinching, grabbing or any physical positioning popor restraining to discourage behaviour.

How do you manage unwanted dog behaviour then?

Preempt the dogs behaviour in advance

Address issues proactively by understanding the dog’s body language and triggers. Intervene early with cues to redirect behaviour. Provide mental and physical stimulation in advance, avoid triggers, or using tools like leads to prevent rehearsal. Manage unwanted behaviour while teaching alternatives.

Teach an incompatible behaviour

This involves training dogs to perform actions that cannot happen at the same time as unwanted behaviours. For instance, if a dog jumps on guests, teaching them four paws on the floor or to relax on their bed offers an alternative.

Use a positive interrupter

Teach a positive interrupter like a โ€œkissโ€ โ€œkissโ€ sound or a word like “hey” or “easy,” redirecting attention from unwanted to desirable behaviour. Praise or reward the dog’s response to foster positive communication and cooperation.

Training

Work on strengthening foundational training like leave, drop, come, wait and others, using positive based methods, practice in various situations, environments and around different distractions.

Teach a finished signal

Always teach a signal to indicate to a your dog when an activity like rewards, play and fuss has ended. This ensures they are not left limbo, helping avoid frustration which can lead to unwanted behaviour.


It can be tempting to go for a quick fix in dog training however they generally have a punishing component and can have a detrimental impact on your dogs mood and emotional state long term. Get support from a trainer or behaviourist that promotes kind, mindful, fair and positive methods.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

5 Exercises to teach Reactive Dogs

Teach these exercises outside of needing them make them fun!

THIS WAY

Teach your dog to follow your direction, your dog can learn to create space around triggers in an arched fashion. Once they understand you’ll assist them in moving away, they’ll be more inclined to follow your guidance.

BEHIND

Train your dog to stay behind you approaching corners or when visibility is limited, avoiding collisions with triggers and enabling you to lead them forward, fostering a sense of security without them feeling they need to lead.

LETS GO

Teach your dog an emergency about turn this is vital for swiftly navigating tricky situations particularly in built up city type areas. It enables a quick exit from potentially hazardous scenarios, ensuring their safety during walks.

TIGHT LEAD

Itโ€™s common for a dog to learn when the lead goes tight by the handler there could be a trigger, teach them if the lead goes tight good things happen like rewards instead of them learning to be on high alert.

WAIT

Teach your dog to stop and wait for further instructions, prevents them from wandering off, running into approaching hazards. This request enables handlers to manage their dogs effectively to put them back on lead where necessary, ensuring they stay safe and even when off-lead.

These are just some of the exercises to focus on with your dog, to support them around the things they find difficult in life.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Are you measuring your dog’s behaviour or your progress against others?

Are you treating your dog fairly, or should you adjust your expectations?

Hereโ€™s why you should stop.

Now, I understand this is easier said than done; it’s tricky. Take it from someone who finds herself at times comparing against all the amazing dog behaviourists and trainers out there. However, I must emphasize that while it’s good to be inspired, it’s not healthy to compare and doesn’t bring any benefits. That’s why it’s crucial not to compare your dog with another. I know itโ€™s human nature, and we tend to do this in our personal lives, not to mention on our training journey with our dogs. The trouble arises because when we compare our dog’s skills and progress with another or ourselves with another owner or professional, it does us an injustice and can significantly impact our progress and relationship.

Even if youโ€™re comparing your dog to another say a previous one or a dog of the same breed. Firstly if itโ€™s an older dog that has past and you have a puppy, you may not truly remember the puppy or adolescent stages with the original dog or perhaps your children have all grown up and moved out and they were the ones that were entertaining the older dog when they were a puppy most of the time.

If for example you have a spaniel and you compare it against say someone walking their German Shepherd down the road, thereโ€™s a massive difference in their walking style. Spaniels cover ground when working as gun dogs in a zig zag type fashion, German Shepherds tend to sheep along perimeter lines, so is this a realistic comparison? If you are watching another dog that appears to be behaving how can you be sure it is not doing so because it is scared, or has an underlying health condition, or is that just their nature.

Dogs have different learning styles just like us, for example some focus on movement so if whilst teaching you are constantly moving your hands around, this makes it difficult for the dog to know what to focus on. But clear visual signals can help. Other dogs respond better to verbal cues, there are even dogs that learn from watching and then copying.

Researching what your dog was bred for can help you understand their learning style better but each dog has their own preference too. Dogs also learn at different rates, some get frustrated easy so we need to break tasks down, others get distracted easily so we need to keep motivation high or train initially somewhere quiet. Many dogs can be one step a head and can end up learning something different than we expected. This happens to dog trainers and behaviourists too so you are not alone.

As a professional I always focus on the dog in front of me and itโ€™s vital we go at that dogs pace. 

If you have been working hard with your dog it doesnโ€™t mean that youโ€™re doing something wrong, dogs are not blank slates. Even if you get your puppy at eight weeks theyโ€™ve had eight weeks of learning history before getting to you, before that thereโ€™s hereditary and genetic factors and even the stress of the mum during pregnancy will impact how your dog is doing with the world around them, which in turn impacts learning results.


Sadly we are in a society that wants quick fixes for everything, however the instant solutions you might observe on tv or social media usually have an aversive or punishing component, which has a detrimental effect long term on your dogs emotional state and can lead to further unwanted and sometimes dangerous behaviour. 

When youโ€™re comparing your dog what happens is you stop listening, you stop listening to when your dog is not comfortable with something or is finding the training difficult or is not getting it. Therefore frustration and even anger can start to arise.

If we take lead walking, for example, there are so many factors influencing your dog walking beside you on lead. Take pace for instance, some dogs cannot walk at the pace we are walking at. If you think about someone who walks slower than you naturally you walk faster and itโ€™s hard to maintain their pace. If your dog is anxious they are going to want to move quickly in an environment, they may sniff the environment briefly and want to get back to their safe place as soon as possible. Thereโ€™s so much theyโ€™re trying to take in and if theyโ€™re scared theyโ€™re gonna wanna walk quicker. There are multiple reasons why dogs pull.

What ever you are trying to train I urge you to try and take a step back and take one day at a time with your training, watch the dog in front of you and be kind to your self. Be mindful of how you are feeling and what mood you are in, dogs are sensitive to our mood states and it will affect their behaviour. Itโ€™s good to sometimes just spending time with your dog without doing anything specific, spending quality time without constant training. If youโ€™ve just had a stressful day at work and then decided to take your dog out on a walk and you are still working on lead walking you might find your patience is shorter. You are not setting your dog up for success for learning and youโ€™re putting yourself under pressure so either donโ€™t take your dog out that day, choose a different time or just use this time to simply enjoy your dogs company.

Consider where you are getting your behaviour or training support from. Researching advice off of the internet can be detrimental to your success and will put your techniques into conflict, causing your dog to be more confused.

There is not a one size fits all approach to Dog Behaviour and Training, despite what you might see on TikTok, Facebook, Snapchat, or other media platforms. That’s why seeking guidance from a professional who can work with you individually, understanding your environment, your dog, your needs, and expectations, is more effective. They can help you set and achieve goals, considering the pace of both you and your dog.

Take a moment to step back, observe your actions from an outsider’s perspective, and if needed, seek support. Even a phone advice session with a trainer or behaviourist can provide valuable insights into what might not be working.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

6 reasons why dogs jump up, its not just to say hello!

Many dog owners prioritise stopping their dogs’ jumping behaviour, considering it a troublesome habit that can potentially pose a risk to others. While this perspective is right and understandable from a human point of view, it’s essential to recognise that from a dog’s standpoint, jumping serves as a means of communication, and there are several underlying motivations behind this behaviour for you to be able to address the issue effectively. This is also why the conventional advice of simply turning your back on the dog, does not prove effective for many, as it only yields results with a limited number of dogs.

There is also often a difference in how itโ€™s managed with small and big dogs. Management and control of this behaviour is heavily focused on with large dogs, due to risk of injury however small dogs not so much. Small dogs often just being reprimanded when it happens when you have your best clothes on or they have muddy paws and are about to jump on a stranger, without training them what we prefer them to do.

Jumping up behaviors are indeed observed in dog-to-dog interactions, although they are less common compared to interactions with people. This difference can be attributed in part to human influence through selective breeding, resulting in variations in size and temperament among breeds. Additionally, mounting behaviours may occur for sexual activity, if excitement levels become excessive or if the interaction becomes too overwhelming. Jumping can also be seen in play between certain dogs or during moments of rising tension and during a fight. Understanding these dynamics is crucial for interpreting canine behaviour accurately.

In my view, it’s crucial to gain an understanding of the underlying causes before attempting to tackle this issue. This understanding can contribute to success for both you and your dogs relationship. Some of the motivations behind their behavior might even catch you by surprise. Additionally, I’ve provided a set of straightforward initial guidelines to assist you in addressing what you might perceive as nuisance behaviour while helping your dog convey their needs effectively.

Jumping up as a greeting

Certain dogs exhibit high excitement upon your return, expressing relief, joy, or sheer happiness at your presence. Unlike us, they walk on four legs, and if you observe their interactions, you’ll notice they frequently start by sniffing the mouth before proceeding to the rear, especially when greeting familiar canines. Our upright posture can lead some dogs, especially those with a more appeasing disposition, to aim for the facial area during greetings.

This behaviour can often be unintentionally reinforced during a dog’s early stages, where puppies may jump up in certain situations, and we initially encourage it when we interact with them as they are small and cute. As they grow older, we may become frustrated with this behaviour due to getting scratched or fed up with our clothes being dirtied, even though it was our initial encouragement that taught the behaviour, dogs tend to repeat behaviours that they find rewarding or reinforcing.

Commonly people manage jumping up by pushing the dog down, shouting, ignoring the dog completely, folding arms and turning away or a combination of all these responses. The problem with the above reactions is either the dog is getting attention for the behaviour you donโ€™t want or goes into appeasement see below, because you are getting angry or they get frustrated/distressed because they are getting no feed back at all, which can lead to more desperate attempts to gain interaction.

  • Be mindful how over the top your interaction is when greeting them, your dog will match your energy. This is also not a normal greeting for a dog, so can make them feel in conflict, if you watch how adult dogs with good social skills greet you will see itโ€™s much calmer.
  • Preempt the jumping before it happens and reach down to their level, stroking their chest/shoulder calmly for paws on floor, you do not need to insist on a sit in fact this can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot and escalate their jumping. Keep greetings short many dogs are not looking for physical touch
  • Give them a special toy to hold, this can work particularly well with retrieving breeds and dogs whom enjoy holding or parading with an item.
  • Drop treats to the floor or on to a mat or bed away from the entrance way, when greeting visitors/strangers making the visitor boring, drop until completely calm, ensure you do not loop jump at visitors gets treats, preempt the behaviour
  • If they jump pause any interaction, step back, no talking to them or touching until feet are back on the floor and then calmly stroke
  • Use a hand target to redirect them down, no pushing them.
  • Build on duration of pauses between strokes for dogs that repeat jumping up when you stop interacting, teach an end signal when you are finished and then walk off, to prevent them being left in limbo and to learn that you are now unavailable and for them to go and relax.

Jumping up as appeasement

Like people some dogs just have a more appeasing nature than others, they are like the people pleasers of the human world. You may see body language like ears pinned back, jumping up and licking to avoid conflict. You often see this in dogs where the owners mood state might be up and down or the dogs behaviour has been managed aversively in the past or the person is intimidating.

This is why getting angry or physical cannot only be detrimental to the dogs well being but it actually heightens the jumping up behaviour, itโ€™s their attempt to prevent conflict escalating. These dogs may seem they are instigating interaction but history can teach them that people when they make eye contact often head towards them so jump up in advance.

  • Do not force interaction, let them come to you, do not stare at them directly for long periods, these can make them jump up again
  • Stroke them gently and not over the top, avoid reaching over the top of them or touching on the head, focus on less intimidating areas are like under the chin, on the chest or shoulder using one hand in gentle circular motions. Two hands can cause them to feel trapped.
  • Avoid using shouting or physical threats to correct behaviour and particularly when they are jumping up as this will exacerbate the behaviour in a dog that is unsure
  • Avoid leaning over them, this can be intimidating which again triggers the jumping up crouch down instead if possible
  • Prevent strangers reaching out to touch them constantly, reward to the floor when people insist on interacting, listening when your dog wants to move away
  • Pause frequently during interactions giving choice to walk away

Jumping up when uncomfortable


Dogs that are anxious, fearful or uncomfortable in a situation will often jump up. This can be on you as an owner, as an indication that they are wanting to come away from the situation. You might see a dog jumping up and interacting with another dog owner, which can be a way that helps them avoid interactions with other dogs. This can occur repeatedly, particularly if the dogโ€™s caregiver is missing the signals that the dog is finding something difficult so the dog seeks support from others.

You can also sometimes see this behaviour when people are heading directly at you dog or I see this particularly in puppies when walking along the road this can appear intimidating to dogs. Dogs greet in an arch like fashion, where as we head directly at one another or it appears that way when walking on the pavement. This jumping behaviour can become excessive/panicked with some dogs even turning to mouth or bite their lead or their owners which can be the fear response fawning. These puppies and dogs need to be supported to ensure their fear response does not escalate to more desperate attempts to gain distance like growling, barking, lunging or worse biting.

  • Work at a greater distance from the people/dogs/vehicles etc the dogs is finding difficult
  • Let them chose to approach or interact at their own pace, no pressurising them in to interacting
  • Visit environments that help them relax and decompress
  • Back away to allow for them to make a more confident approach
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore
  • Build confidence using novelty/noise games and ACE techniques

Jumping up as a request


Dogs may learn to jump up as a way of requesting something, a behavior influenced by learning it works and occasionally fueled by frustration. Positive reinforcement, such as attention or treats, can inadvertently teach this behavior. For instance, if a dog jumps up, the owner asks them to sit, and then rewards them, the looped behavior may continue if the dog hasn’t been trained to stay.

Each dog’s learning style varies, with some becoming more frustrated than others. Building patience during food delivery is crucial, each dog is different so itโ€™s important to go at the dogs level setting them up for success and not failure, preempting the behaviour in the first instance and reward profusely for what you would prefer them to do instead. Although sit is a common behaviour that is taught all the time this is not a necessity and can sometimes be like putting a lid on a boiling pot, standing calmly with all four feet on the floor is a behaviour that can be reward instead.

  • Preempt the behaviour so for example if it happens when you are eating/cooking teach them to settle on a mat, rewarding duration and distance whilst you are doing activities in the kitchen or when you are preparing their dinner reward them for calm behaviour before they get excited
  • Slow down and make training easier to avoid frustration jumping
  • Build on duration between rewards in small increments
  • Focus on core skills rather than tricks and what they prefer to do
  • Give fuss/rewards sooner and frequently for feet on floor
  • Use a finished signal to indicate that training, treats, play or interaction are over, to prevent the dog being left in limbo or getting frustrated the key to this is being clear and doing something else after the signal so the dog know you are no longer available

Jumping up to play

Jumping up during play can, again, be inadvertently taught. I often observe caregivers holding the toy up high, leading the dog to attempt to grab it. This behavior may stem from instances where the dog accidentally caught fingers during play, causing caregivers to snatch the toy away in fear, which actually in turn teaches the dog to try grabbing it again in excitement as the toy is moving quickly.

Alternatively, it could be an unintentional taught behaviour employed by handlers trying to teach their dogs to wait but inadvertently instilling frustration by not aligning with their dog’s learning style or setting them up for success.

Another factor is the inherently competitive nature of humans, making the game frustrating or teasing for the dog by not allowing them to win regularly or drawing out them getting the toy. Consequently, the dog may resort to jumping up in an attempt to grab the toy out of the persons hand. Frustration along with play sessions that are way to long can lead to overstimulation, which can result to a dog jumping up, even nipping and biting as excitement levels have become to high.

  • Keep toys at nose level or lower
  • Use longer trailing toys
  • Release the toy sooner to avoid frustration
  • Run the toy along the ground
  • Let them win frequently to avoid frustration mouthing/jumping
  • Teach a leave and get it cue so they know when to grab the toy and when not too, again both cues need to be taught by setting the dog up for success and not taught by snatching it away when you ask them to leave it
  • Keep plays to short 15 minute sessions
  • Again use a finished signal to indicate when play is ended or generally I suggest ending play with a chewing or foraging activity to bring excitement levels down

Jumping up to gain distance

Now this one often throws people because they think if a dog wants to gain distance from something they are uncomfortable with, say a stranger along the street or a visitor. Why would they lunge and jump up at them, why do they not just move away? My answer to this is usually history has taught them when they used subtle signals like pausing, avoidance, moving away in the past that indicated they wanted distance, the signals were either missed or ignored.

This can start from puppyhood in an attempt to โ€œsocialiseโ€ a dog handlers can think this means that a dog must be interacted with as many people as they can. Allowing people to constantly head at and touch their dogs without noticing the signals the dog is giving to indicate they are not enjoying the interaction. Overtime jumping and lunging can give the dog the distance they need by stopping the person moving, or getting them to move away or the owner moves the dog away through embarrassment of jumping up, therefore the dog learns the behaviour is successful.

Again like appeasement if the dog is not supported correctly or worse punished, they can associate people with further negative experiences and then escalate to more forceful behaviours like lunging, snapping and biting toโ€‚keep potential threats approaching.

  • Work at distances they feel less threatened
  • Avoid greetings in the hallway or where they feel people are heading at them or cornering them
  • Teach them a positive association with another room that they can come out of or behind a gate that is not headed at
  • Let them approach strangers/visitors in their own time ask visitors to be hands off and to not reach out
  • Invite them to come to you verses you heading towards them
  • Back off at the subtle signs like lip licking and yawning, moving away
  • Teach them to associate people with a positive and that they can move away or ignore

Being closely involved in a situation can make it difficult to perceive the reasons behind your dog’s behavior. As humans, our inclination is often to just focus on stopping or correcting the behavior, yet true success hinges on understanding the possible emotional state driving the behavior in many cases.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Dog Equipment

This page is designed to quickly access some of the products that I have used and often talked about during my sessions, the content on this page will be forever changing as new and improved products come on the market. These products are my preferences but all people and dogs are different and what suits one may not suit another.

Select images for further details

Silicone Treat Pouch – I find this dog treat pouch from Dexus really useful, I donโ€™t clip it on my belt as I do not want the dogs I am working with fixated on it but itโ€™s excellent to stick in your pocket and to get the treats out easily and most importantly quickly. It is really hygienic too really easy to wash. No more smelly treat bags. Available in many colours.


Double Ended Dog Lead – I love this lead by Mekuti, I have used it for many years and have not gone for another. The softex material it is made out of, means itโ€™s kind on hands even with the strongest of pullers. This lead comes in two thicknesses and 3 lengths 2m, 2.5m (my general lead) and 3m. This can be used on a two point harness or just as a longer lead as you can turn one end into a handle my favourite way of using it. The same as other double ended leads you can change the length of the lead too by clipping to different points on the lead.

Recall Lead – If you want a reliable recall i.e. your dog coming back when you need them too. You need one of these, you need to be 100% sure they will come back before letting them off. If you start off with them off lead and then they learn not to respond to your come request you will have a dog that rehearses not coming back to you because they can. Again like the Mekuti lead this is made of softex material kinder to your hands. It comes in different lengths but I work with the 10m length one. Long lines should be attached to a harness and never a collar they can cause severe damage to the neck.


Blue-9 Balance Harness Buckle Neck – Designed by Lori Stevens, Certified Dog Trainer and made in the USA, the unique Balance Harnessโ„ข has 6 adjustment points offering a customised fit for comfort, complete freedom of movement, and flexible lead attachment options. Its unique design offers you the flexibility of multiple adjustment points to ensure that your dog has a properly fitting harness to ensure comfort, proper movement, and safety.

Perfect Fit Fleece Harness – Another great harness which is fleece lined making it more comfortable for the Dog especially with short fur or delicate skin. Good for the dogs that get cold out there but be careful in the summer as this harness can make some dogs sweat and if your dog suffers from skin problems the extra moisture could make it worse. Whatโ€™s really good about this harness is it comes in three pieces which means it can be perfectly fitted to your dogs shape and size and you can send back the individual pieces to get the sizing right.

Perfect Fit dog harnes blue and black three piece

Safety Link – Although not specifically designed for this purpose I find this halti link useful for attaching a dogs collar to their harness especially for the Houdini types. Simply slip the looped end through the harness closest to your dogs collar and then use the clip end on your dogs collar ring. This comes in different sizes.

Freedom Handle – I use this in conjunction with the double ended lead for clients that like to have a handle, these are great material too soft on the hands.


Settle Mat –ย I love this although itโ€™s labeled as a crate mat, they make great settle mats, they can be rolled up to take with you to friends, pubs, cafes, restaurants and can double up as a shallow snuffle mat, anti slip backing and washable cover.

Dog Water Bottle – Itโ€™s important to always โ€ชremember to take out water for dogs in all weather they get thirsty in the cold too! Some dogs like dirty water, others have no other option. This effects training mouths will be dry causing reluctance to take treats & then the treats & what your are teaching is no longer rewarding.โ€ฌ This water bottle is a great design with a hook to take with you where ever you go. Be mindful to always introduce them at home first, a new object forced towards them can be frightening and prevent them from drinking.

Muzzle – I believe every dog should be trained to wear a muzzle and like having it on, yes this is possible. All dogs have the potential to bite especially those in pain. Itโ€™s much better to train a dog to enjoy wearing one, rather than having to force it on when your dog may already be stressed after a road traffic accident for example. Muzzles are used for many different reasons these days even for dogs that constantly pick up and eat things from the floor when out on walks. It is vital you go for the plastic or biothane basket type muzzles as the material ones mean dogs cannot pant and usually dogs wearing them are stressed and need too. The Ultra Muzzle or Buma allows them to pant, drink and even has an area that allows dogs to take treats.

Car Harness – It is important to have your dog/puppy safely restrained in a car for your safety as well as your dogs. There are many harnesses that are out there but you must always go for one that is actually crash tested. The ezydog car harness is one option.

My Utility Jacket – I often get asked about the jacket I wear because people are surprised the equipment I can be carrying on me. There are so many pockets on this jacket I feel like the Mary Poppins of the dog world. I carry my long line, leads, freedom handle, dog toys, Poo bags, business cards and more in it, this is one of my best buys.

Mud DaddyGreat to wash your dogs paws off but ensure you get them used to it positively first and excellent for washing muddy boots. I keep this in my car. It also comes in useful for trips to the beach, washing sand off etc

Bed – For a dog to be comfortable their beds should be big enough to do a superman pose in, so legs stretched out fully in any direction the average pet dog has a bed thatโ€™s too small or not comfortable. This can also affect gait and posture. Comfort is important too there are a number of types of beds working out what your dog likes is not always easy but these Barney Beds or Big Barkerโ€‚beds often go down well.

RugsThis might appear random I know but the average households these days have floors that are too slippery for dogs that cause niggling injuries where they have to make micro adjustments to stabilise this can bring on early arthritis and also cause injury and anxiety as the dog is unable to relax. This rugs have a really good anti slip bottom that is good on a large number of floor types.

If you are getting a puppy go to my puppy shopping list


As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I only list products that I have used, seen or genuinely believe are good.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Do owners treat male dogs different to female dogs?ย 

In my job, I tend to get contacted for more male behaviour problems than female.

Is this because males are more troublesome than females?

While there can be differences between male and female dogs, regarding certain hereditary traits and roles, itโ€™s worth considering that the behaviour differences may also be because care givers have different treatment approaches for male and female dogs.

In my experience, I have noticed that caregivers often demonstrate a nurturing and empathetic approach when interacting with females, while taking a more disciplined approach when interacting with males, with an emphasis on fostering independence.

Caregivers generally approach interactions with females by using gentle stroking and being cautious about engaging in excessive play. In contrast, when interacting with males, caregivers often adopt a more hands-on approach to management, utilising rougher patting and actively participating in activities like wrestling and rough housing. Female caregivers often have a lower tolerance for biting compared to male caregivers, individual approaches to managing male and female dogs can vary based on personal preferences and experiences. It is crucial to understand that these observations should not be interpreted as stereotypes or sexism, but rather as general tendencies. 

During walks, I see handlers exhibiting a higher level of caution when it comes to approaching female socialisation as puppies, particularly when they reach sexual maturity around intact males. This caution is primarily to avoid any unintended pregnancies. As a result, females may be given more distance during their adolescent period, where anxiety and potential fear can be heightened, possibly having a positive impact on their socialisation experiences.

If play with other dogs becomes overly boisterous, caregivers often choose to move females on sooner, recognizing their discomfort. On the other hand, with males, if they display uncertainty or fear, there is often more pressure on them to continue the interaction in order to overcome their fears. Similar to the treatment of children, boys are often encouraged to exhibit traits of strength, independence, and confidence. These gender stereotypes can also influence the way dogs are perceived and treated by caregivers.

When it comes to neutering, male dogs are often neutered with the expectation that it will help address unwanted behaviors such as marking or humping, and there is a belief that it may also calm them down. It’s important to note that humping behavior is not solely driven by hormones, and it can be observed in both male and female dogs. While many females exhibit this behavior, neutering is not always the first solution that comes to mind. Humping can be a response to stress or high excitement levels in dogs of both genders. Neutering to address health problems in dog maybe a secondary consideration from a dog owners point of view. On the other hand, females are typically spayed to prevent pregnancy, certain health issues, or to manage hormonal imbalances.

Each and every dog is a unique individual with distinct needs, temperament, and preferences. It is crucial to prioritise their well-being and take into account their individuality and be careful not to manage their behaviour according to their gender. This is not intentional by any means, itโ€™s just something to become self aware of. By approaching each dog as an individual, we can provide them with the optimal care, promoting their overall happiness and fulfillment.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

How do I stop my puppy biting?

You will find the top searched for question on Google is โ€œHow do I stop my puppy biting?โ€

You’ve probably even done it yourself. The reason most people cannot find the solution they’re looking for is that the information out there is actually pretty generic and the truth is there is not a one size fits all approach.

Puppies bite for a number of reasons and it’s not just because they’re teething. Let’s face it, the biggest problem with it is that they have razor sharp teeth at this age and it really hurts!

For you to find the solution for your puppy. You need to know all the reasons and how to help them not feel the need to bite you or your clothes in different situations.

Handling, puppies have to get used to being touched. Puppies do not sit there stroking each other in the litter, in fact, dogs do not pet each other at all. We touch dogs much more than they want to be touched and far more than we would touch each other. Often puppies do not find stroking as rewarding as we think at the start, it takes a while for them to find it enjoyable. Now if you look at it from a dog’s point of view, sometimes we can be pretty annoying when we’re touching them. So one of the reasons they might be nipping hands is to say I don’t like that.

We do of course need to get puppies used to being handled because people are going to touch them with or without consent. But this should be done in a positive way pairing it with rewards, doing it in mini sessions and giving them breaks before they try to nip stroke with one hand only, gives them the choice to move away. Stroke in a calm way. Find the spot your puppy likes under the chin on their chest are normally places they prefer rather than over the head. Try stroking when they’re calm, not when they’re playing or over excited. Otherwise they will just play with you like you’re another dog, with their mouth. Keep it brief initially, always stroke then pause for a few seconds to see if they want more and then repeat.

Frustration is another cause for puppies to bite us. We sometimes are a competitive species, particularly when we’re playing a game of tug. There’s a lot of controversy around playing tug games stemming from outdated advice, one of them suggesting you should always win, firstly where’s the fun in that! This can teach puppies not to trust you around items causing them to feel the need to guard and also it makes the game pretty boring. If you do not release the toy regularly, they might resort to biting you to make you drop the toy sooner or they give up and find something else to do.

When playing tug with your puppy keep them engaged by letting it trail on the floor, bouncing it around like pray and then tug gently when they get it and then let them win, then repeat. This will drive them back to you to play more. It sometimes good to have two toys keeping it interesting for the puppy. Tug toys that are around a metre long helps keep puppies at a distance

If your dog likes to parade around with it in their mouth and not drop it or takes it to chew. This is not an invitation to play and remove it from them. In fact, this can cause distrust, lead them to chew or play with it the way they like.

Managing physically, whilst puppies are young, particularly for smaller breeds, we have a habit of physically removing them and picking them up constantly. Hands can become pretty negative to them. This can again cause frustration, leading them to nip us to say put me down or to make us get off them when putting new equipment like leads and harnesses on puppies, they have no idea what it is. With us leaning over them or grabbing them, it can be pretty scary. When putting new equipment or clothing on them, it’s important to break this process down and pair every step with treats until they’re comfortable having it on and teach a hand target and leave it to get them to move away or come to you, rather than being physically forceful.

Teething, when the biting is related to teething you will find they are trying to get what ever it is in their mouth and generally to their back teeth, fingers feel so good on teeth and for them it can appear you are trying to take their teething toy away. Always have some edible and non edible chews available to hand as they need to chew a lot. You can put toys in the freezer and give frozen carrots finding, what your puppy enjoys chewing is the trick as each puppy is different.

You can get coffee wood chews specifically for dogs that crumble instead of splinter, pizzles, other meat or vegetable based chews and yak milk chews are great, find whatโ€™s right for your puppies age. It is vital particularly when they are resting near you to have these within arm’s reach. As chewing is often common when puppies are tired, chewing releases a calming hormone so usually the thing nearest to them will be gnawed on to get them off to sleep.

Teething starts around eight weeks just at the time they’re in their new home and goes on until about eight months. Usually the worst period for teething is between 12 to 16 weeks when tooth eruption is at its highest.

Play, puppies play using their mouth and feet, it’s a little like wrestling. If it moves, puppies investigate and like to pounce on it and mouth it.

All puppies can see is everything below, the knee moving along and it’s fun. Add to this dangling clothing like dressing gown chords and you’ve just made it the best game ever! During this exciting period, prevent temptation by tucking things in, wearing clothes that are not great tug toys and keep the fluffy slippers upstairs until they’re a little older. With children it is important to prevent puppy practising chasing and biting. The long fleece tug toys are good if your child really wants to play with them however it’s also important children do other activities with puppy. Get them involved in designing enrichment activities like; searching for treats, hiding a toys or kong, stuffing boxes or making a towel burrito with treats rolled up in it, this means they’re involved with puppy but not always wanting to pick them up and play with them all the time, getting them over aroused and over tired, where the puppy then constantly bites them. Getting children involved in training is important so puppy doesn’t want to see them as something to chase all the time. Management is crucial. So puppies don’t rehearse the behaviour preempting it is important. If the chasing happens whenever the kids come home, set up an enrichment activity for puppy and children to do together or use pens and barriers when they cannot be supervised to keep them apart.

Witching hour, puppies are crespuscular, which means they’re more active at dawn and dusk. This normally ties in when you’re getting ready for school and work or when everyone is home in the evening trying to relax. It’s important to get the balance right of your puppies routine. Puppies need a lot of sleep between 16 to 20 hours a day, overtired puppies nip, they become restless and they get zoomies which often looks like their biting is more deliberate and is then often made worse because everyone is trying to grab them and there are more people in the house. The biggest mistake new owners make is thinking walking them and playing with them loads tires them out but this does the complete opposite, sniffing, chewing, enrichment activities and training are the things that are more calming not play, which is why itโ€™s important to end play with an activity like this to dissipate their arousal levels. It’s important that they get good quality rest where they are not disturbed, touched or woken, they should wake up naturally where ever possible. If they do not get enough sleep in the day, they can get restless at night too. When they get like this, it’s about getting them in a quiet space providing a chew or stuffed calm to bring their arousal down.

So what do you do when puppies do by first always have toys and choose within reach of you and rotate them to keep them interesting? You can never have too many. Start using a finished signal to let puppy know when itโ€™s the end of training, treats, play or fuss, this helps them learn how to switch off. I will let puppies mouth me a little if it’s gentle and not hurting. I need them to know the difference and what a soft mouth is. If there is firm contact, stop interacting for a second and slowly move your hand or any other part of you that’s in the mix. Teaching them pain means that play stops briefly. As soon as they stop divert to a toy and play with that toy, moving it away from them, getting them to chase it. Do not try and force it into their mouths as this will make them more likely to just latch back onto you. If the puppy is biting continues and the toy is not satisfying them, remove yourself for a few seconds, making sure you take a different toy on your way out and then go back and offer the toy to play with.

If they are overstimulated or tired, they cannot learn anything. So at this stage, you need to calm them down by giving them an activity in their crate, pen or bed to bring them down, remember sniffing, licking and chewing are things that will calm our puppies.

If you need further support take a look at my puppy training page for the services.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Labrador being held in a standing position by a man in a blank and white checked shirted
Dog Behaviour

Did you know the fear response โ€˜flirtingโ€™ is frequently confused with over exuberant behaviour in dogs?

โ€œFlirting,โ€ also referred to as fawning, is when the brain responds to fear by attempting to appease the person or situation causing the fear, in an effort to avoid conflict.

These dogs and puppies are often excessively jumping up at visitors or lunging when walking pass people or dogs on walks. Along with this behaviour there can sometimes be nipping, humping, repetitive licking, ears back and panting, with the dog generally restless and not able to relax in peopleโ€™s or dogs presence.

You may find you are out with a group of people with their dogs and your dog spends most of their time jumping up at the other people and you, avoiding interacting with the other dogs. This maybe an indication that the dog is feeling uncomfortable with the dogs presence and is looking for a way out of the situation or is trying to avoid conflict. You see the jumping up more towards the other people in the group particularly when the dogs care giver, has wanted to socialise their dog and the dog has wanted to move away but the signals have been missed in the past.

Sadly these behaviours are often punished as jumping up is usually frowned upon, as it can be frustrating for the care givers, particularly when itโ€™s visitors or strangers because it is embarrassing and of course it can put people at risk of getting hurt, depending on the size of the dog. 

You might have worked at asking for sit at the door or when greeting people and it has never worked because sitting is a vulnerable position to be in when you are uncomfortable. It is like putting a lid on a boiling pot, you can get more over the top behaviour when released, as a forced sit is not a relaxing behaviour,  it causes more tension. 

Telling off can then exacerbate an already uncomfortable dog. The dog gets more stressed in the situation because their care givers are agitated, which then increases the dog behaviour further, with the dogs desperate attempts to prevent more conflict, creating a โ€œvicious circleโ€.

Red and white small dog looking up towards the camera with a finger in the frame depicting the dog being told off

You can often see excessive friendliness when visiting the vets, as a fear response to being examined or due to sensing the other animals fear in the surgery.

There is no difference between dogs who use flirting, aggressive behaviour, cowering trying to hide or are frozen when scared, they all need the same support. 

These dogs generally need space. You need to work at distances that the dogs can relax, being headed at can make dogs uncertain and you will see some subtle signals way before they start jumping up, like suddenly sniffing the ground. You know when you see someone in a shop and you think โ€˜oh no they will keep me here for agesโ€™, so you try not to make eye contact reading anything close by even if its a bag of frozen peas! This is similar to what you see in dogs trying to avoid people or dogs that are approaching, as they get closer you then see the flirting behaviour.

Letting them observe from a distance they can relax will help them process and feel more comfortable, often these dogs just have not had enough time to process calmly the things around them or have had strangers heading at them to stroke them as puppies so preempt people are going to come and man handle them. 

Dogs like this need a safe space away from visitors and to be taught how to relax in the space, trusting they will not get approached or bothered there. The visitors also need to be aware to keep their hands off and prevent staring at the dog, giving them complete space so the dog is able to relax in their presence and approach in a calmer state if they wish too. But depending on the dog, the visitor still needs avoid interaction giving the dog space.

Small white dog lying in grey bed with giraffe print lining, with a green blanket.

If they are not supported this behaviour can eventually lead to them resorting to growling, barking, snapping and biting to increase distance. This is why when I work with adult dog cases that are using what we label as โ€˜aggressive behavioursโ€™, the clients often tell me the dog used to be all over people when they were puppies, they would be jumping up constantly and then rolling on their back (another conflict avoiding signal). These are dogs who have had their message over looked and misinterpreted.

One last reason that you may see the fawning or flirting response is avoidance of being touched or approached due to discomfort from an underlying condition. As we know dogs are stoic and it is sometimes very hard to diagnose discomfort and pain even in a veterinary situation, which is why a full consultation or dynamic dog assessment is usually required. 

Of course like any behaviour in dogs we observe, observe, observe. This is just one area that I feel should be reconsidered, when you see what looks like an over excited, excessively friendly, totally barmy dog. It might simply be them looking for help and a way out of a stressful situation.

โ€œFirst seek to understand before expecting to be understood.โ€

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Equipment, Dog Training, Puppy

Do you take water out for your dog on their walks?

What ever the weather, itโ€™s always important to take water out with you for your dog on walks. Dogs get thirsty the same as us and often are running about more. You might say โ€œbut my dog doesnโ€™t drink on walksโ€, continue reading to find out why that might be.

If you donโ€™t have water with you, dogs can end up disappearing in search of water, possibly drinking from a puddle or worse a stagnant ditch. Now donโ€™t get me wrong some dogs just love drinking dirty water, and different water sources can have different minerals that they could be potentially seeking. However having a fresh safer options on you, is far more preferable. 

Have you ever been training your dog and they stop taking the treats? This could be because they are thirsty and itโ€™s not rewarding, when you have a dry mouth to take more food, especially if you are using the dry biscuit type. Therefore it could become punishing to the dog to perform the behaviour you are actually training at the time.

Water is also another resource you can use as a reward for recall, as we all know if we are thirsty having a drink feels good. What is important however is never withhold water from them for training purposes!

Dogs with anxiety or ones that find some experiences outside stressful, often drink more water. So itโ€™s vital when working on behaviour rehabilitation that these dogs are offered water on a regular basis, or you may find they switch off from treats quicker. 

I have been told on a number of occasions by dog guardians, that their dog will not drink water when out on walks, this maybe the case however the first questions I ask is:

โ€œHas your dog drank from the bowl or bottle that youโ€™re offering them to drink from when outside before?โ€

โ€œWas enough time given to your dog before the walk to be come familiarised with the item, to enable them to feel comfortable with it?โ€

You will be surprised how many dogs I see that are actually scared of the water bowl/bottle dispenser that is being offered to them, or the way in which the water is presented to them. For some dogs it can be quite unsettling to be suddenly introduced to a weird novel object, then to have said object enthusiastically thrusted into their face or under their nose, this can appear to be somewhat threatening to a dog.

Itโ€™s really important with all equipment, that your dog is actually comfortable drinking from it, so it should be introduced in the house first with them happily using it, comfortable with you approaching them with it and then taken with you on the walk. Always get your dog to walk towards you rather than you moving to them with it in your hand. Normally they drink from a stationary bowl at home, and you are now moving towards them with something odd, sometimes in a forceful way (because you care), as you can see they are thirsty.

Another factor is how much water is dispensed, licking shallow water or dribbles out of a bottle doesnโ€™t quench thirst and therefore some dogs do not bother. Dogs use the back of their tongue like a scoop, lifting the water up and into their mouth see the following video https://youtu.be/63Ch2pNkZwU so ensure you have poured enough out before calling your dog over. 

If they generally do not drink outside and also rarely do at home itโ€™s worth considering the following, mains water in different locations can be highly chlorinated which can prevent dogs from wanting to drink it and actually can have other adverse effects. This is why some dogs prefer filtered or natural spring bottle water.

Dogs can also be getting lot of moisture from the the food/treats they are getting, so it consuming it that way.

An option for these dogs not only to take water just incase, but also more watery treats like melon, cucumber any juicy fruit to provide a refreshing alternative, of course thatโ€™s if they like fruit, and itโ€™s provided in moderation.

What ever dog you have, itโ€™s vitally important that dogs have the option to drink whilst they are out.

Happy walking.

Jo

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Slippery floors and dogs

These days itโ€™s common for many houses to have laminate, wooden or tiled flooring. Often people already have it in the house before they have got their dog or puppy home. 

The trouble is dogs really struggle with slippery floors and have to work very hard to stabilise on them. For them it can be like walking on ice on a daily basis. 

You may notice when asking them to sit their feet splay out or worse knees and hips and many end up lying frequently even when they donโ€™t actually want to. This is a real risk with puppies that are still growing sustaining long term joint issues.

It can make dogs restless as they have to fight to stabilise constantly, making micro adjustments as they regularly walk across the floor, this can cause anxiety in some dogs and can impact other fear related behaviours.

More importantly it often causes nagging injuries, strains, joint problems and more. Now your dog may not be showing any signs of pain physically but remember dogs are stoic they often do not show any lameness or limping until their pain level is about a 6 and often only vocalise pain when itโ€™s at its highest. 

Tips to reduce the risks:

  1. Use anti slip rugs and runners strategically placed, when coming in through door ways at the bottom of the stairs and to break large surfaces up. Anti slip tape can be used for stairs.
  2. Make sure their beds are anti slip too as getting on them can cause strains if they move, you can use the anti slip tape to put on the bottom of them rather than buying new beds.
  3. Ensure bowls, snuffle mats etc are anti slip or on an anti slip surface like a silicone tray and the dog is standing on a secure surface when using.
  4. Use paw wax or paw grip spray when visiting venue that have slippery surfaces, this can help some dogs gain traction when walking across the surface.
  5. Have paw hair trimmed professionally, paw fur can make it very difficult to get any grip at all whilst walking and keep nails trimmed.
  6. Do not play on slippery surfaces, play only on carpeted areas or in the garden.
  7. Keep the surface dry and thoroughly wipe dogs feet when itโ€™s been wet.
  8. Do not ask them to sit on an unstable surfaces.
  9. You can get pet safe anti slip surface sprays or paint this coats the flooring so there is more grip. 
  10. If you can afford it for the long term replacing flooring with an anti slip surface would be ideal.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Puppy

How to overcome the puppy blues so you can enjoy your puppy!

Having a new puppy can be a bit of an emotional roller coaster at times, but itโ€™s often the lesser talked about reality of new puppy parenthood. It can leave you feeling a little isolated, frustrated, and even perhaps regretful. Itโ€™s the puppy blues in full effect! 

Iโ€™m going to let you into a well-kept secret that I think will help you. A large percentage of the issues we see with puppies are not actually training issues at all. 

There are two things that are leading to you feeling overwhelmed, conflicted, and possibly even guilty about life with your new puppy. You might be surprised to learn that they are both fairly easy to overcome once you identify them. 

So what are they, Jo? I hear you cry. 

Expectations and too much information. 

In this puppy blues blog, we will delve into both of these factors so you can recognise them, manage them and come out the other side with your sanity intact and a dog you love deeply and understand. 

So, letโ€™s start with expectations. 

Puppy Blues: Is it normal to feel regret after getting a puppy?

You had a vision of what life was going to look like when you welcomed your puppy or rescue dog home. And this isnโ€™t it. 

Youโ€™re exhausted. Youโ€™re monitoring your puppyโ€™s toileting habits constantly, youโ€™re sleep-deprived, and youโ€™re frankly covered in bite marks gifted to you by your little shark puppyโ€™s razor-sharp teeth. 

Itโ€™s disappointing, upsetting, frustrating, and you might even be feeling like getting your puppy was a terrible idea. Donโ€™t panic! Itโ€™s also normal!

Guess what?! Your puppy is more than likely behaving like a puppy. The problem is not you, and itโ€™s not your puppy. He isnโ€™t some devilish spawn that you should never have invited into your life.

The problem is that you werenโ€™t given an honest reflection of what these early weeks and months might look like. Itโ€™s not your fault. 

You read all the books and boffed up before getting him home, but now itโ€™s like everything you read was written for someone else. 

Iโ€™ll tell you why. There isnโ€™t much out there that highlights the fact that your puppy will not master everything you try and train immediately. And thatโ€™s not because youโ€™re not doing it right. Itโ€™s because there are developmental milestones that have to be reached before that training will cement. Training takes time. 

Why is my puppy so hard to train? 

Your 9-week old puppy cannot physically hold their wee and poo in. They are not developed enough to do so. Your puppy doesnโ€™t have the capacity to be fully toilet trained until approx 16 weeks old, when he can begin to learn to hold his toileting needs until heโ€™s in an appropriate place. 

That doesnโ€™t mean thereโ€™s no point in doing any toilet training. There is. But it means that you can allow yourself to relax a little and enjoy the little successes which are slowly adding up. 

Let go of berating yourself (and your puppy) whenever you find a puddle somewhere youโ€™d rather not. Itโ€™s going to happen. Stock up on kind words for yourself and your puppy, enzymatic cleaner to remove odours and stains, and treats for celebrating the toileting that is happening in the right places. 

And trust that it will pay off. These little accidents may be frustrating, but they wonโ€™t be forever. 

The puppy biting youโ€™re experiencing is also normal. Your puppy is teething, prone to becoming overtired in the blink of an eye and learning about the world with her mouth. You can do things to help your puppy with their sore teeth, but it is unrealistic to think you can completely eradicate any biting. 

Those sleepless nights or hideously early mornings? Yup, normal! Again, there are things we can do to make it easier on you and your puppy, but itโ€™s unlikely that youโ€™ll be gifted a puppy who sleeps 12hrs straight as soon as they enter your life. 

The fun and joy you expected from puppy life are in there. You will enjoy your life with your dog. The puppy blues will pass! 

You just need some help to adjust your expectations so that you can revel in your training successes and actually recognise when they happen. You might find that your puppy training is actually going swimmingly, you just need a different perspectiveโ€ฆ and perhaps a couple of small tweaks to help you on your way. 

Who can I trust – there is so much conflicting information

I remember when I first had my son, Logan. Yes, Iโ€™m talking about a human child, but stick with me, it is relevant, I promise. 

I drove myself round the bend, worrying about whether I was getting it right. Iโ€™d read so many books while pregnant, but my views were completely different when he arrived. 

So what did I do? I turned to Google, of course! 

And I didnโ€™t stop there. I read various books, talked to friends, and tied myself in little knots once Iโ€™d acquired a ton of conflicting advice. 

It was overwhelming, confusing, and very unhelpful.  

We all have really good gut instincts, but we go down these rabbit holes seeking information, and we often end up ignoring or even fighting against our gut.

I have clients who have achieved great results using books or videos from YouTube. They have developed amazing skills which have helped them to train their dogs. But there is still something missing. 

For a lifetime of success, understanding, and a strong bond with your dog, you need to not just be able to teach behaviours but to have a clear understanding of your dogโ€™s behaviour. 

Whatโ€™s beneath the problems you are experiencing? When you understand your dogโ€™s specific needs, what motivates him, what he struggles with and what emotions he is experiencing, you are both set up for an incredible relationship.

That canโ€™t be taught in a generic video or picked up from a well-meaning dog friend because your dog is unique. There will be different motivations, life experiences, breed traits and so much more that affect your dogโ€™s perspective on the world. 

Letโ€™s go back to Logan for a minute. Imagine I told a friend he screamed all night, and I was at my witโ€™s end. And imagine my friend told me that she had a similar experience, and her baby was hungry, so she gave her an extra feed before bed, and the problem was solved. 

So off I toddle, and I give Logan a huge top up feed before bedtime. Only he doesnโ€™t sleep soundly. He screams even more and for longer. Because the reason he couldnโ€™t sleep was reflux, and the extra milk just made that 10x worse. This is a made-up story, but I just want to highlight how if we seek out information without a two-way exchange, it can quickly lead us into bigger problems. 

Just like children, our puppies and dogs need us to be consistent. And with the best of intentions, when we bounce from pillar to post trying different techniques from various people, it simply doesnโ€™t work. In fact, a lot of the time, it creates bigger problems, because we are now unpredictable to our dogs (or kids), and that doesnโ€™t foster confidence or security. 

What should I focus on with my puppy?

Your puppy is like a baby, he/she needs you. The absolute best thing you can do for your puppy (and your future self) is to help your puppy to grow in confidence. The typical dog training obedience stuff can come later. The early weeks and months are all about supporting your puppy and helping him/her to feel secure and safe. 

This solid foundation will enable you to build a strong relationship with your puppy. And that foundation will make it a million times easier to teach your puppy the vital skills they need to grow into an assured, confident, and happy dog. 

You can begin teaching cues such as drop and leave to help keep your puppy safe, of course. I donโ€™t mean that you should completely ignore all elements of training your puppy. But the area of most importance is your relationship and their feeling secure. 

So, if youโ€™re not going to Google everything and ask every dog owner you know, whatโ€™s the alternative? 

“I wish I had got help from the beginning” is a phrase I hear from clients all the time. Initially, they tried using a book or the internet to help them with their puppy woes, but the reality was they became even more overwhelmed. 

They wound up pulling their hair out and making things so much harder for both themselves and their puppy. 

Prevention is better than cure

Don’t put off puppy training until you have a problem. It will be so much harder for you and your puppy. 

Being proactive to prevent problems or getting help as soon as they arise sets you and your puppy up for success both now and in the future. Whether youโ€™re having a tough time or youโ€™d like to try and prevent a challenge from occurring, having a professional you can call on to discuss your individual situation is a huge relief. 

How choosing one to one puppy training support can help you overcome the puppy blues

Group puppy training classes usually teach general obedience training covering things like sit, stay, recall, and drop. And while these can be helpful skills to learn, you then have to take what youโ€™ve learned in a class environment and progress it in the outside world alone. And that can be tricky without someone coaching you through the little hiccups that occur in day-to-day life. 

Choosing one to one dog training support means that we work on your specific challenges and your unique goals. We consider your lifestyle, the things that are important to you, and we work on a bespoke plan for your puppy or dog and support you through putting it into action. 

Iโ€™m not just a dog trainer and behaviourist, I support the humans I work with. If you have a safe person to turn to it makes it a million times easier for you to be the safe person for your puppy. 

And it helps you get over those inevitable humps without falling down a Google hole, only to emerge confused, even more exhausted, and utterly fed up. 

Instead, you have one person to reach out to who will give you consistent, tailored advice and support that meets your needs and those of your puppy. Hurrah!

So that vision you had of life with a confident and calm dog by your side that can stride through life with you no matter what happens is your reality. 

If youโ€™re struggling with the puppy blues, then please donโ€™t suffer alone. Reach out and get in touch with me, and letโ€™s banish those puppy blues so you can enjoy your new pup! 

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Since youโ€™re here and tackling all things puppy, you might find this blog on socialising your puppy a useful read. https://johinds.com/2018/03/29/dog-play-vs-oversocialisation/

Pug Lying Down in Resignation on Wooden Floor with skirting board in background
Dog Behaviour

How can you help your dog during COVID19 lockdown and after?

Hi Guys so we are in the midst of the COVID 19 lockdown, I have been putting off writing anything about this subject because we was not quite sure how long it was going on but I think unfortunately lockdown will not be ending anytime soon. I have had lots of thoughts running around in my mind that you might have concerns with and what concerns I have regarding when lockdown ends for your dog. Socialisation, separation and concern about overtired/over aroused dogs are all covered below.

Firstly I have pulled out some key points from the British Veterinary Association their info graphics are below too. The current strain of Coronavirus is a result of Human-to-human transmission, there is absolutely no evidence that companion animals can spread the disease. Current evidence suggests Covid-19 has a wild animal source however this still remains under investigation. It is also thought it might be possible the virus could be carried on fur from humans that are infected/carrying the virus, for a short period of time in the same way it is on other surfaces, such as tables and doorknobs, this could apply to their harnesses as well. The main advice for animal owners is continue to practise good hand hygiene by washing your hands thoroughly (for 20 seconds with soap and water) after touching your pet and also not letting them interact with other dogs or people that do not live with you. If someone else is walking your dog for you for what ever reason, please carefully still follow social distancing rules and hygiene advice. Have a bag with all your dog equipment in, that you do not need to touch and the dog walker can take and bring back.

All veterinary practices are now required to limit face-to-face contact with clients. This means running an emergency care and emergency prescription service, some are still providing food and doing necessary vaccinations but this is branch dependent. So avoid putting your dog at unnecessary risk.

Pets and corona virus advice from royal veterinary college
RVC Someone walking your dog during COVID 19 advice


Food

If you run out of food dogs can eat human food they did evolve from our discarded food after all! However try and find alternative healthy complete dog foods, if you can rather than making your own, often getting the balance right of nutrients and what your specific dog needs is difficult. Itโ€™s always good to add fresh veg and fruit (in moderation) to your dogs dinner a minimum of 3 times a week anyway, this helps with gut health, a healthy gut helps with behaviour too! If you have to change food try and do it gradually if possible, I know this might be difficult donโ€™t worry if itโ€™s not feasible it just to avoid tummy upset. If your dog is on a special diet speak to your vet to see if they can suggest a good alternative. If you are struggling with costs http://www.trussellstrust.org are able to provide pet supplies for people who need it.

Difficult time for all

Lady with hands covering face depicting stress with someone else hands on sides of head

I know this is a stressful time for all of us but believe it or not it will be for our dogs too. Dogs pick up on our mood state so if the behaviour has changed it can be due to this, be mindful to try and take them out when you are feeling not so tense, as handling of the lead can then change the walk and can be unpleasant for your dog and in turn you, as they are likely to pull more or be hyper vigilant to things in the environment if the lead is tense. Some dogs will love you being home but others will be overwhelmed because everyone is there all day, they may not be getting the rest they need. There will be more people interacting with the dog, whether itโ€™s kids constantly playing or teasing them or multiple adults managing unwanted behaviour, if this is not managed right you can have a stressed dog on your hands. Overtired, overexcited or frustrated dogs can lead to bites, statistic are usually higher during school holiday periods so this isolation period will be no different.

Routine

Dogs do appear to have an inbuilt time clock seeming to recognise the difference between week days and weekends (our actions and body language is more likely what influences this the most) however if we treat everyday as a weekend when lockdown is over some dogs are going to struggle. Each dog is different when it comes to routine sometimes a strict adherence to routine creates anxiety issues when all of a sudden they have a day where the routine gets thrown out the window, dogs which suffer from separation anxiety or isolation distress, are extremely aware of routine events that predict your leaving, which triggers their anxiety. What I am mainly suggesting is stick to a version of your normal routine for your working week, feeding your dog when you normally would and walking them. Obviously this will be different if you have a dog sitter but you can do activities in the same way without the socialisation aspect. Donโ€™t walk your dogs more than you usually walk them unless you can sustain this after lock down otherwise when itโ€™s over they will find it difficult when you go back to work, this is unfair and definitely do not make them walk more if they are refusing. Change for the future is inevitable things will not be exactly the same when restrictions are lifted, dogs do adapt but their are somethings to consider for getting through this period with ease for both parties.

Sleep

Ginger and white senior collie x sleeping on bed in sunlight with door in background

I have just posted a very detailed video on YouTube on this specific subject โ€œIs your dog getting enough sleepโ€ but some key points are below. With everyone home everyone may be interacting with your dog more than normal but be mindful sleep is vital to mood state dogs should be sleeping through the night and having regular undisturbed good quality naps in the day. Children and adults should be leaving the dog alone when they are resting or sleeping. Puppies need around 18-20 hours sleep and adult dogs need around 12-14 hours of sleep a day. Lack of rest and sleep can effect behaviour.

Alone Time

If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:

  • Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
  • If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.

If you do not normally work from home, some separation and being unavailable is going to be important for your dog at this time, even for the people that do, you are probably at home more than normal. Absence from your dog is important for the ones that used to it but even for the ones that are not like those of you that have new puppies or ones that have existing separation related problems the following exercises will help:

  • Provide searching and foraging activities in a different room/garden than you are in (safe activities of course) not shutting them in there unless they are comfortable with this, just aiding with a little separation from each other. There is a link further below for lots of ideas but one simple foraging activity is to put out lots of cardboard boxes in a group on the floor or a box filled with safe recycling items in and scatter their dinner or healthy treats, for them to sniff out and find (for nervous dogs make it easy with not to many boxes or items to start with) put out a snuffle mat at the same time, if you have one too and leave them to it no encouraging or cheering them on, the idea is they decide if they want to and they can choose to be away from you.
  • If you have a Kong another option is to put a rope through the small hole end of it and tie a knot. Stuff the Kong with something they have to lick, then tie the long end of the rope to a piece of secure furniture (with no risk to the dog) in a different room again where you are not, I usually suggest having something comfortable for the dog to lie on, near it. If you have a chewer or a dog that gets easily frustrated this might not be the right activity for them.

Those of you that have puppies that you are concerned about or a dog that struggles to be alone and you are worried about the impact, this is actually a good time to work on separation. The first thing we as behaviourists would advise is not to leave them alone at all and build on separation within the house and them being relaxed first, working in leaving them for seconds rather than minutes.

As well as the above points other places to start would be:

  • Within the house just going to simple places like the toilet or shower and closing the door. If they struggle and get distressed about this in anyway, have a treat pot in the toilet, pick up a handful, drop treats outside toilet door and shut the door every time you need to go.
  • When you need a bath or shower have a kong/chew ready and ask them to lie down on the bed whilst you go to the shower. If you have a dog/puppy that does get distressed leave the door open building on closing it but giving them an activity to do in another room close to the shower.

The important thing with separation training is you going in casually and come out casually. This is what you eventually need to do when leaving the house, this is not about ignoring them itโ€™s about making it no big deal, so itโ€™s normal. You do not want to be adding to how they feel, if you come out saying โ€œI am so sorry I left youโ€ verbally or in your body language, showing any anxiety yourselves, your dog will get distressed because you are.

Teaching a settle on a bed or blanket is also something that is useful to work on. You build on duration first and them truly relaxing and then build in doing short activities around them cleaning or when cooking building in distractions whilst they are still relaxed there. You would then work on distance but not aiming for the front door first, aim for them being at the kitchen door whilst you are at the cooker. Distance will be first before out of sight, before starting out of sight I always suggest to get a dog monitor or application if you have a smartphone and tablet, this enables you to watch for some of the subtle signals dogs give way before they start panting, becoming hyper vigilant, tense whining, barking or howling, you want to return to them before this whilst they are still chilled and relaxed. Do not force confinement or let them cry/whine/bark until they are quiet, this is outdated information it causes anxiety and high stress levels.

Periods of unavailability are important to, think about an activity you usually do and when you do it you dog often goes and rests away from you. Common times this happens (depending on the dog) are when you are on the phone, computer or reading a good book, you are usually completely unavailable and your dog often knows this because your body language indicates it. No eye contact, often looking away doing something else, so they often settle and rest, some almost relieved. Itโ€™s important to do activities where you are unavailable you cannot however fake this, you need to just go and do something else in the house. If you think about puppies we are on their case all the time watching them incase they wee or chew something and because of this some find it very difficult to settle in our company and this happens to adult dogs too, being unavailable sometimes is good to give your dog permission to just chill out.

If your dog is used to you going out if you can go out without them, I know there are limits around this but some alone time is important.

Play

To start with there is such a thing as too much play, contrary to popular belief play often does the opposite to tiring a puppy/dog out, it usually makes the dog or puppy over aroused, some frustrated because of how we play and we often play for far too long particularly with puppies, which can make them over tired, nippy and restless or worse. This lockdown is leaving some people bored, be careful not to over do it with your dog, there needs to be a balance between play, eating, sleeping, resting, mental and environmental stimulation and training. Some of the signs of play has gone on to long or the dog is over aroused are as detailed in the below images from the vet behaviour team, you want to end the game way before these occur:

Obviously yes it is important to make time to play with your dogs for short periods but not at times where you need to work or do stuff or you will have a dog that pesters you all the time. Do not leave kids playing unattended watch how the children are playing with the dog. Itโ€™s important if the dog is sitting just chewing on the toy or moving away with it that no one tries to grab the toy off them

Rather than constantly playing ball which can be over arousing, be careful of football too, play other games that provide them outlets for natural behaviours such as:

  • Searching for the ball; if your dog knows a stay ask them stay, throw the ball into long grass, count to 5 then release them to find it. Leave patches of grass to grow long for this game in your garden as well.
  • Hide a toy in the house or garden and then let your dog in/out to find it. For newbies make easy.
  • Tug ensure they win, ensure they are bringing it to you, when you are trying to instigate a game remember to use the toy as if it is prey, donโ€™t waggle it in their face prey doesnโ€™t do that, run it along the floor in zig zag movements keeping it low. Be careful not to make the game frustrating and ensure they are bringing it back to you, donโ€™t grab it off them if they just try to take it away its not an invitation to take it.

Like us, dogs donโ€™t enjoy being teased, nor do they understand the difference between our toys and theirs, so itโ€™s best to keep any toys they shouldnโ€™t play with safely out of their reach.

Outlets for natural behaviours

Dogs need outlets for their natural behaviours and what each dog likes is different. Digging, searching, hunting, foraging, sniffing, chewing, water play are all examples of what dogs need and there are lots of ways this can be done during this period. Searching for treats or scattering their dinner is just one way to tire them out as sniffing is stimulating to some dogs and often very tiring. Enrichment done right is actually what tires dogs out, this also will help prevent your puppy/dog becoming bored, restless and getting up to mischief. Here is a great blog for 100 days of enrichment whatever you choose it should be stimulating and not frustrating, each dog is different always start with easy stuff first particularly for dogs thatโ€™s are fearful or lacking confidence.

Walks

Each person in the household can go out with the dog once a day but this should only be for the dogs who are used to it or you can continue this in the future. If there are not multiple people in the house make the walk longer and focus on really good quality sniffing and what they enjoy, this is the tiring bit. Dogs that are used to being off lead, avoid situations where they interact with other dog or people as it could mean you break the social distancing rules because you have to go and get them. Instead keep them on lead but clip them on a different point on their lead or change to a slightly longer lead to imitate being off and work on just letting your dog take the lead, as if they are off lead let them take you on an adventure. If you control the snifari walk then you may start to build in frustration and could trigger behaviour problems in the future.

Socialisation

A lot of people are worrying about the lack of socialisation for their dog or puppy at this time but I myself am really not. I think for most dogs this is actually a blessing. Firstly if you have a dog that is anxious or stressed out normally on walks, do not start taking them out more than usual particularly as people are looking different at the moment this will add to their anxiety unless your road is much quieter now. Those of you with puppies social distancing is good and I recommend this in generally anyway for all puppies, for the unsure puppies distance is important to make them feel more confident this allows them to observe at a distance without being overwhelmed and choose whether to investigate, it also allows the over friendly puppies to read people and other dogs body language from a distance when they are saying I am not interested. Puppies that are not used people you can do exercises at home where you dress up getting them used to different out fits, hats, high visibility wear, glasses, fancy dress and of course masks most dogs may find these a little odd. Do take your puppies out at different times of the day.

For those dogs that are socialites and struggle keeping a distance this is the perfect time to really work on rewarding disengaging from dogs, donโ€™t try and get their attention when they see them just wait until they do disengage and pay them a lot with multiple treats to their mouth and ground as you are moving away, no pulling them, even if this takes time, the trick is to stay at distances where they can disengage. Have a really good game after the walk with them, these are the dogs that may need play increased slightly.

Grooming

For those of you that have a dog that needs regular grooming, ensure you do this daily particularly if you usually rely on a groomer. Itโ€™s actually a great time to help them feel comfortable with it giving them short sessions and giving the choice to stop too. Pairing treats at every step even if itโ€™s every brush and a tasty chew at the end, always give them other options when grooming put boxes, snuffle mats and kongs with food around during the session to allow them to have breaks. This is a great way to do regular check overs with your dogs.

My final note is like us dogs will get through this crisis, things will be different and there behaviour might change too but hopefully some of the above will help prevent this. Of cause if you are having specific behaviour problems and would like some advice I and many other trainers and behaviourist are still doing telephone, virtual-video sessions for training and behaviour and I do have a five week puppy course for those who have puppies and are concerned which I am now tailoring subjects to get puppies through this period.

Check out my website http://www.johinds.com for more details.

I am signing off now, really missing seeing and interacting with all your canine companions.

Please keep safe and take care.

Jo

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Donโ€™t leave your dog hanging!

Transcript:

“This is a quick one today but I think it is a really important one because we often leave our dogs in a state of not realising when things are over, which can for some dogs lead to frustration and more desperate attempts to get more treats, play or more fuss. Now I like to teach dogs what I call “The End Signal” which can be named what ever you like but what it means is that we have finished whatever we were doing. I think this is fair because its really hard for some dogs particularly, to understand that now there is no more treats or now we have stopped training and there are some dogs that are particularly more addicted to training, play or fuss even, so its important for our own benefit as well as them to let them know that it is over now and there is no point carrying on trying. Your word can be anything; most people say all gone when it comes to treats, they might say enough, finished, go find or go play, what ever it is it needs to be consistent and I tend say use one word that means that is it, its finished. “Finished” and a hand gesture is useful for your dog, when we would use this is say we were training with them and we have been giving loads of treats and we have been doing some sits, downs and stays and I like to teach a settle at the end so they relax after at the end of the session we say “Finished” with the gesture so they go off and they know that it is the end of training, there is no more treats and we are going to put them away and its clear to them its futile to continue trying. This should apply when you are playing as well particularly for dogs that are ball obsessed but for any dog so they are not just left hanging there like “What happened?” you know we often just carry on, “oh we have done that bit now” and we will carry on doing whatever, we just need to let them know, right that is the end, its all gone you can go and sniff and relax now, so we are not training any more, we are not playing any more. You can obviously use that for fuss and anything where you dog tries to continue to pursue something. Finished means right go and settle down, go sniff if you want to, go an play with your mates whatever but what it should mean from us that it does mean the end. There is no point saying finished and then go and give your dog another treat at the end of that because you then undo what you are trying to achieve, you want your dog to understand that finish means no more now, you can do something else and I am going to do something as well. I cant say enough how important I feel this is for dogs because as i said it just leaves them understanding it is the end and they are not left in limbo. OK I told you it was a short one today so please do the usual like a subscribe and catch me next week take care.”

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

Ask The Dog

My latest book is out, called ASK THE DOG. What made me write this book? Many things; my now 4 year old son, the adults that go straight up to dogs and stroke without asking because they are โ€˜dog loversโ€™, the people that have had dogs for years but are missing the subtle body language that dogs display, when they would prefer to be left alone, the number of children that try to come running up to us, when I am out with a client and their dog and of course the many cases I deal with where dogs have bitten.

Ask the dog by Joanne Hinds cover page mum and son asking a owner and the dog whether they are happy to be stroked

Children below the age of 15 account for a high percentage of all dog bites, with the most vulnerable group being kids around 5 or younger, with this group at higher risk of being bitten in the face and are more likely to require hospitalisation than older children. Nearly 90% of the dogs are known to the children that are bitten. Children unfortunately do not recognise canine emotional expressions like growling for example, very well and sadly boys seemed to recognise fearfulness less in dogs.  These are the many factors why I felt it was important for me to help educate children, parents and people in general, on how to recognise when dogs are saying they do not want to be touched.

Now letโ€™s think about it, how much are we touched on a daily basis by known or unknown people? If we walked down the street stopping and physically touching people unsolicitedly, we would not only get some strange looks and make people feel uncomfortable but we might get someone shouting at us or worse. Now think about how much we physically touch and handle dogs. You could be having a BBQ for your friends and family, and as the family dog (big dogs in particular) moves from one room to the next, it may have been touched by at least 80% of the people in the room, just on the way through. Little dogs can often move away quicker but people often pick them up instead which makes them feel uncomfortable, vulnerable and threatened. Not many dogs like being picked up, an indication of this can be when they start licking your face repeatedly, ears back we like to call this the โ€œKiss to dismissโ€ which is often the dogs attempt to stop the interaction, see the following article on this https://www.familypaws.com/kiss-to-dismiss-not-all-licks-are-the-same/ by Family Paws Parent Education, they have some excellent information on keeping children safe on their website too. Yes there are some dogs that are on top of you licking you repeatedly because they do like being close but others only do this when you grab or hug/restrain them as this is not normal in the dog world, you donโ€™t see dogs hugging and stroking each other.

Now itโ€™s not just children that this book is aimed at, its for adults too, we are human and designed to read human behaviour, so we often miss when a dog doesnโ€™t want to be engaged with. Itโ€™s a credit to many dogs that they donโ€™t bite, many use the subtle signals like lip licking, turning a way and moving away to indicate that they do not want to be approached, and itโ€™s only when these signals have been missed over and over that they have to use bigger displays like barking, growling, snapping or biting to get their message across more effectively. These behaviours are no different from us shouting, lunging or hitting at someone that made us feel uncomfortable too. The common thing I am told is my dog is so good, he tolerates anything we do to him and my response is but is that fair?

ASK THE DOG is about giving dogs the choice to interact or not, giving them the choice to say โ€œNoโ€, to keep people safe and to be mindful that dogs do not always want to be petted. It encourages children to make sure any dogs they encounter are happy to be stroked, and how to recognise signs that a dog may not want to be approached. The message is delivered in the form of a poem. With colourful, eye-catching illustrations to draw in younger readers and help to underline the points made in the text. 

Available in paper back and Kindle Ebook, get your copy today on the following link https://amzn.to/2Kg6sRY and help me spread the word so more people are kept safe.

Bye for now.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Is your dog getting enough sleep?

Transcript:

In my job I go into a number of peoples homes where dogs are not getting enough sleep or even rest, they maybe getting sleep in the night but in the day they get none or worse they are restless at night too.  Over tiredness in dogs and puppies can cause all sorts of unwanted behaviour nipping and biting in puppies, in adults; biting when disturbed from sleep, some labelled โ€œGrumpyโ€ around people and other dogs and more. 

Adult dogs need on average 12 -14 hours of sleep if they are in sync with your own sleep patterns say 8 hours a night, they need to get the remaining hours through the day. Older dogs generally sleep more as they tire out more easily and I believe need rest in order to function properly. Puppies, like babies, spend a lot of time expelling energy while playing and exploring their new surroundings, it can be stressful learning human rules and learning about the world, which means they might need as much as 18 to 20 hours of sleep to recover.

Just like us sleep is vital for dogs, it gives the dogs body time to heal, a dog deprived of sleep will have a weakened immune system therefore more prone to sickness and putting them at risk of serious conditions. Lack of sleep also has a huge effect on mood state. As humans suffer from fatigue and increased risk of obesity, due to lack of sleep, we would be fooled to think this is not a risk for dogs too.

Sleep is also important for learning and retaining information. A study was done by the family dog project and they found sleep did help dogs with memory consolidation. This blog gives us an insight https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/dog-spies/memory-wins-when-dogs-sleep/

There are many reasons why dogs are lacking sleep;

Inadequate or uncomfortable bed area

A plastic dog bed or hard floor is not comfortable for a dog and not conducive to having a good nights sleep or adequate sleep or rest in the day. In the wild dogs dig the earth to make it softer or choose the most comfortable resting spot they can find. Yes dogs do choose the floor as-well particularly if they are hot but some move around quite a bit during the night which you would notice if they were on your bed, which mean some struggle in crates for this reason too. If you have wooden, tiled or laminate flooring a moving bed is unsettling to and a nervous dogs wonโ€™t want to lay on it. Dogs are social animals and generally like to rest near us, a completely relaxed dependant dog would happily sleep away, a lot of people frequent the kitchen and tell me their dogs pester the visitors constantly, I look round the kitchen and see there is no where for the dog to just chill and calm down. I often ask people to get me a blanket or towel I lay it down near us and carry on talking to the owner leaving the dog be and the dog looks almost grateful and lies straight down.

Underfloor Heating 

This is another problem for some dogs particularly if you have this throughout the house, dogโ€™s over heat quickly so having a place they can go where it is not heated is important. I get complaints about dogs digging up the garden, if your dog digs a hole and then lies in it, the main reason will be because either they have no comfortable place in the house or because they are digging to get to the cool earth underneath, if you donโ€™t like it provide them an equivalent like a cool bed in the shade.

Multiple options

If you are not allowing your dog on the bed or furniture (yes you can by the way, this does not make them dominant), they need multiple options, each dog is different and have different bed preferences, cave, flat, thick, bean bag, beds with lips for dogs like short nose breeds, that need to lift their head to help them breathe, and some like some dogs like being covered up. Before you say it, no they are not โ€œjust a dogโ€ and should not โ€œjust be grateful they get anything!โ€ Some people who donโ€™t let their dogs on the furniture have a daily battle with their dogs getting up there,  or worse the dogs become aggressive. Think about it, we often appear or become threatening first, Dave the dog is lying there minding his own business, nice and comfortable on the sofa or bed, having a lovely rest and then we suddenly come in telling them to get off, or sadly drag them off by their collar. Over time they start to defend themselves and no they donโ€™t know they shouldnโ€™t be on the furniture, they can just read in your body language that you are angry and this can be as simple as a look, so they either appease you with slinky body language as they donโ€™t want conflict or they use aggression to defend themselves. I know what I am like when I am disturbed from sleep, ask my poor husband! 

Location, Location, Location

Your dog should have at least one bed where there is no foot traffic, away from where your children play loads and the hustle and bustle of a busy household, never located near a cupboard that is frequently used etc. 

Many locations where dogs sleep, like the kitchen for example have no window blinds/curtains these days, which means dogs get disturbed by all the critters that wake up at night, that we are not even aware off. This can make them more anxious or on high alert and no blinds mean it can make them rise when the sun does. Often people tell me their dog doesnโ€™t use the bed that they bought them at all, this is either because the bed is not the right one for the dog, they might not find it comfortable or are not used to the texture, or it is located where the dog is not comfortable, is there a draught, is it to close to the radiator, is it facing the front window where itโ€™s bombarded with perceived threats e.g. people and/or dogs walking by that make them uncomfortable? If they are crated, again there should be a bed or at least a crate mat like the one here. There should be enough room so that your dog can stand up fully, and lie down with their legs stretched fully without touching the crate walls.

Crates ideally should not be forever. Of course some dogs love them and would choose the crate or den area over everything else, that is absolutely fine just be sure they are getting adequate sleep in there.

Let sleeping dogs lie

Never disturb your dog when resting or sleeping, yes if they are on your lap itโ€™s fine to stroke them, although once they are a sleep try not to. If they have decided to sleep away from you on their bed or on the other end of the couch, leave them alone and ensure children do too! Donโ€™t decide I want to play with them and wake them up. I know they look adorable, but donโ€™t be tempted to give them a stroke, itโ€™s annoying. We touch dogs far more than they would touch each other, if we did it to people as frequently it would be classed as inappropriate and irritating, give them a break.  Most people hate being touched in their sleep, itโ€™s startling and unsettling, why are we shocked when a dog snaps or is grumpy when they are woken constantly, if it doesnโ€™t happen frequently then they are less likely to react this way, but lack of sleep in general can trigger snapping and itโ€™s quite common in fearful/anxious dogs that need help in other areas of their life.

The Bed Chewer

For a dog that chews beds, try multiple old towels or duvets, rather than spending a fortune on beds, under supervision of course, particularly if they swallow what they chew. Reintroduce the bed differently focusing on calm activities, encouraging them to lie down in a relaxed position, and giving them Kongs filled with something they have to lick, as opposed to dropping it, or chews that take them a while. Ensure to reintroduce the bed slowly, managing access to it at first. Be sure itโ€™s not on a slippery surface because ones that move, can attract chewing particularly in puppies, as it becomes a fun toy just like puppy pads. 

Visiting other locations

When visiting restaurants, cafes, friends homes etc always take a comfortable familiar mat too, this helps dogs feel more relaxed having a recognised space to go to, this is especially important if you are going to a house where another dog resides. The floor inside and outside a cafe/restaurant, is hard and freezing on a cold day and on a hot day they must have the option to move into the shade as dogs over heat quickly. Ensure they are not trapped with no escape route in these places and ask people to not touch them, the mat should be there safe place, only letting people stroke your dog, if your dog is indicating they want the attention. As mentioned I personally really like these they are designed for dog crates however they are handy to take with you, they have an anti slip surface and double up as a snuffle mat too, win win. Others use bath mats, both can be rolled up. I have also seen some very thoughtful owners put an item of their clothing down, if they have nothing else.

Collars

A final point to consider is how comfortable is your dogโ€™s collar. If you can, pop it round your neck, arm or leg and lie down on it, is it comfortable does it dig in. Take collars off at night to give them a break, popping it back on in the morning before breakfast, itโ€™s always advisable to take collars off when puppies are in crates anyway, incase they get their tag trapped which can cause choking and particularly when two dogs are left alone together as there has been many cases, where the dog has caught its jaw in the other dogโ€™s collar, there are always risks they can get hung on things.

As you can see there are many things as behaviourists, we have to consider when looking at a dogs behaviour. Itโ€™s important to be mindful and try and think from your dogโ€™s point of view.

Who knew that sleeping can be so complicated hey!

Bye for now. 

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

Rethinking Dog Socialisation

There is a strong expectation in society that dogs should get along with every dog they meet.

Many people believe that socialisation means exposing puppies and dogs to as many other dogs as possible puppy parties, dog meet-ups, dog walkers and lots of time playing in parks.

The idea is that the more dogs they meet, the better socialised they will be.

But the reality is far more complex than that.

Dogs are individuals. Just like people, they have preferences, personalities and limits. Some enjoy interacting with lots of dogs, others prefer a small circle of familiar companions, and some simply arenโ€™t that interested in socialising with unfamiliar dogs at all.

Unfortunately, the pressure we place on dogs to interact with every dog they meet can sometimes create the very problems we are trying to avoid.

Every Dogโ€™s Experience of Socialisation Is Different

You could take five puppies to the same socialisation class and each one could have a completely different experience.

That experience depends on many factors:

  • their general emotional state
  • how they felt on the day
  • the behaviour of the other dogs
  • how their guardian handled the interaction
  • the guardianโ€™s emotional state
  • whether anything startled them during the session
  • stress they may have experienced in the days beforehand

All of these things influence how a dog learns to feel about other dogs.

Two dogs can leave the same class with completely different feelings about social interaction.

The โ€œLet Them Sort It Outโ€ Myth

One piece of advice that still circulates widely is that dogs should simply be left to โ€œsort it out themselvesโ€.

In my experience, this can be hugely unfair, especially for puppies who are still learning about the world of dogs and the many different breeds and personalities they might encounter.

If a puppy repeatedly goes to the park and has unpleasant or overwhelming interactions, they are unlikely to grow up feeling relaxed around other dogs.

Using older dogs to โ€œteach puppies mannersโ€ can also be problematic. Older dogs may be in pain, may have less energy, or simply may not want to interact anymore. Expecting them to constantly correct younger dogs puts them in a difficult position.

And what about the dog who has previously been attacked? Should they simply be expected to tolerate another dog charging up to them and ignoring their signals?

What I Often See in Parks

As a dog trainer and behaviourist working one-to-one with clients, I spend a lot of time in places where dogs and their guardians socialise.

This might be local parks such as St Maryโ€™s Park, woodland walks, busy places like Ruislip Lido or Rickmansworth Aquadrome, country parks such as Black Park, Langley Park and Denham Country Park, large green spaces like Horsenden Hill, or simply everyday walks around the block.

One thing that becomes very clear is that there is a huge and varied dog-owning community.

But I also regularly see dogs who run up to every dog they encounter, whether that dog is on lead or off lead. These dogs are often highly aroused and may struggle to read other dogsโ€™ body language.

Sometimes they bark in another dogโ€™s face, repeatedly try to initiate interaction, or continue pestering even when the other dog is trying to disengage.

Often these dogs genuinely want to interact they just havenโ€™t learned how to do so in a way that other dogs find comfortable.

When Dogs Feel Pressured to Socialise

When a dog feels overwhelmed or pressured during interactions, they will often try to diffuse the situation rather than escalate it.

Many guardians mistake these behaviours as signs that the dog is relaxed or playful, when in reality they can be signs of appeasement or stress.

Some examples include:

Fawning behaviours

  • Rolling onto their back
  • Excessive licking of another dogโ€™s face
  • Crouching or lowering their body
  • Rapid tail wagging with a tense body

These behaviours are often attempts to signal โ€œIโ€™m not a threatโ€ or โ€œplease donโ€™t hurt me.โ€

Fooling about behaviours

Some dogs will suddenly become very silly or exaggerated in their movements bouncing, spinning, or acting overly playful. While this can sometimes look funny or entertaining to us, it can actually be a way of diffusing tension in a situation they find uncomfortable.

Dogs are incredibly skilled at trying to avoid conflict.

But if these signals are repeatedly ignored, the dog may eventually feel they have no option but to escalate to growling, barking or snapping.

When Dogs Try to Disengage

Dogs will often try to politely opt out of an interaction before things escalate.

They might:

  • look away
  • turn their body away
  • walk away
  • start sniffing the ground
  • move behind their guardian

These are all ways of saying โ€œIโ€™m not interested right now.โ€ Or they are indicating for the other a dog to approach calmer.

If another dog continues to pursue them, that interaction can quickly become stressful.

In these situations itโ€™s absolutely okay to increase distance and continue walking. You can also ask the other guardian to call their dog.

Advocating for your dog is part of keeping them safe.

Why Street Dogs Inspired This Blog

One reason I wanted to write this blog is the increasing number of street dogs I now see as clients.

Many of these dogs previously lived on the streets, where being able to communicate effectively with other dogs is essential for survival. Injuries or illness could be life-threatening, so avoiding conflict becomes incredibly important.

As a result, many street dogs are excellent communicators. They are often very skilled at reading subtle body language and defusing situations early.

When these dogs arrive here, they can initially find some of our pet dogs confusing and over stimulated, particularly those who rush over without reading signals.

This can sometimes make the street dog appear unsociable, when in reality they are simply navigating a very different social environment.

What I Encourage Instead

The interactions I aim for with the clients I work with are simple and relaxed.

Dogs approach, exchange information, have a brief sniff and then continue their walk.

Short, polite interactions.

Much like how we might briefly say hello to a neighbour as we pass them on the street.

Standing in a group in the middle of a park while dogs interact for long periods can often lead to rising arousal levels. When you step back and observe closely, you will often notice that at least one dog would actually prefer to move on.

Exploring the environment, sniffing and moving through the world at their own pace is often far more enriching for dogs than extended social interactions.

Want to Learn More About Play?

Dog play is a huge topic in itself, and understanding what healthy play looks like can make a big difference.

Iโ€™ve written a separate blog that explores dog play in more detail, including what to watch for and when to interrupt.

A Simple Goal

Short.

Polite.

Relaxed interactions.

Thatโ€™s what most dogs actually need..

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training

10 Reasons why dogs pull


Ever wonder why some people just struggle to stop there dog pulling, even though they have been to many training classes. Lack of time of course is one reason, if a dog has not been taught from a puppy to walk on a loose lead, it take a lot more time, effort and dedication to correct this behaviour and lots and lots of patience!

However there are a number of reasons why dogs pull on the lead:

Opposition reflex

Pulling against a dog that is pulling away from you is counter productive, if you pull them back they will pull forward it is as simple as that. This is why techniques like jerking on the lead or simply pulling them back, makes them pull away from you and sometimes even pull more.

We dictate the whole walk

If we dictate their every move on the lead, insisting on being at heel, correcting the position manually or constantly stopping them sniffing, they again will fight against you to get to the sniff that they want and in fact need, dogs get a lot of information from sniffing and stopping them can cause frustration and even anxiety. There needs to be a compromise between us and our dogs without them having to drag us.

Wants to get home


If your dogs is pulling on the way home, it is could be that either your walk is too long or see point 8 your dog is not enjoying the walk.

To get to something


Is your dog one that walks nicely until they see a cat, squirrel, person or another dog. 9/10 times this is because of how we handle the lead, over time you can trigger the behaviour because by pulling them back, you make the target much more interesting then it really is. Like toddlers you take something away from them they want it even more. We pull the dog away sometimes before they have even seen the stimuli.

Practiced behaviour


If dogs pull and we follow they learn to get where they want to go, this is standard advice because yes of course the behaviour get rehearsed, however I always look at what they are pulling for. Taking your dog out when you are rushed, means you are more likely to encourage pulling as the dogs feel pressured into just walking and can potentially put them in a sense of fight or flight. Pulling to the park gets them to the park is another saying. Often this is also because the park has become more rewarding than the journey to the park or that itโ€™s more relaxing for them there away from busy loud traffic for example.

Too short a lead


If you walk your dog on a short lead, a lead you wrap round your hand or even standard length leads, do not allow the dog enough freedom to explore as much as they need to, so some dogs learn to pull quickly and shoot across you just to get that sniff they are longing for.

Different Pace



Your dog just the same as other people, walks at a different pace than you. Your dog has four legs you have two, your dog has to learn to match your pace and that’s difficult, this is why during lead walking training, they often drift forward to their natural pace. You try keeping up with someone that walks faster or even slower than you, you will not sustain that pace for long!

Wrong equipment

Ill fitted or poorly designed dog walking equipment like harnesses, can cause discomfort due to rubbing or preventing relaxed strides, it is like a pair of uncomfortable shoes this can trigger dogs to pull to relieve the pain. Getting the right harnesses is key see my blog poorly fitted harness blog 


and another two often overlooked reasons…

Anxiety


Commonly these dogs pull on the way home, pull past busy places, pull anxiously when other dogs/people/or traffic is approaching. Dogs that are scared of noises are often ones that pull, like they want to get the walk over as soon as possible. Fear on walks is something that should be addressed professionally, fear and stress can have long term health implications and effect behaviour, seek help from a professional behaviour advisor.

Health

Dogs that have an injury, pain or discomfort can often find trotting or walking fast relieves the pressure. Dogs do not show injury or pain easy, pain has to be at about a 6 to see something like limping and about 10 for them to Yelp. Often the first sign of pain is behaviour change.

You see, pulling on the lead is not just about training, the above points are just some of the many factors that you need to consider when working on lead walking.

This is why lead walking techniques like, jerking, luring them back into position and changing direction, does not work for a lot of dogs. Not all dogs and I would actually go as far as to say most dogs are not happy walking to heel either and you know what it’s not necessary for a dog to walk to heel, or and asking them to be on the same side all the time can cause imbalances in the body as they are always look at you one side and not the other causing tension in the neck back and more and guess what they can be in front of you as well, it does not mean the dog is being dominant. Your walk should be a compromise between you and your dog, learn how to help him cope when anxious and work on a good loose lead walking technique that allows your dog to sniff and explore what they want but with out them pulling/dragging you down the street to do it.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour

What Dogs Like

As some of you may know, I have recently published a children’s book called “What Dogs Like“, a story in rhyme with an important safety message on bite prevention. Nearly 80% of dog bites are from the family or a friends dog. Written as a read-along-rhyme with informative illustrations, “What dogs Like” helps educate young people as well as their parents, on how to behave around their canine friends.

What inspired me to write this particular book was a few things; my little boy, the news with headlines like “family dog attacked out of the blue” and the many uncomfortable pictures/videos shared on social media on a daily basis, with children sometimes laying on, picking up or maybe even hugging their dog, with the dog using as many signals as possible to indicate it is not comfortable.

Firstly it is very rare for dogs to just bite out of the blue, unless there is an underlying medical condition, dogs give many subtle signals way before they growl, bark or bite. It’s a credit to the majority of dogs that most tolerate us as adults let alone younger children who are often unpredictable and are learning and investigating the world themselves, which often includes poking and prodding the family dog. I work with many dogs that have bitten or are close to that stage and their owners are often shocked that it has happened, commenting that they felt like it came out of the blue, but then when we go back through the dogs history, there has been a number of times the dog had been indicating its fearful, frustrated or just uncomfortable. Even if your dog appears to be ok, tolerates the children and hasn’t ever reacted negatively, does not mean they are comfortable.

It’s time for parents to help educate children and themselves and be an expert on what their dog and others are trying to tell us. Recognising the many subtle signals dogs use, way before they have to even growl. Lets all work together at reducing bite statistics to an all time low in children (and adults)!

Signs to look for:

  • Dog avoids children (not always as obvious with your own) often taking its self into another room when others visit
  • Pulling head back, turning away or backing off, ears back
  • Showing the whites of their eyes cautiously glaring, looking unsure
  • Yawning when not tired
  • Constantly panting
  • Tongue flick when no food is present
  • Hard eyes like they are concentrating or just staring
  • Tense Stiff Body and Tail, with mouth often closed

Common times these behaviours are displayed:

  • When being picked up
  • When approached especially when resting, eating or playing with a toy
  • When patted on the head
  • When being cuddled and restrained
  • When being dressed up
  • When being handled
  • When punishing them
  • When being forced to do something they don’t want to do

What to do:

  • If you have real concerns, seek a qualified dog behaviour advisor please see the following link to find yours http://capbt.org/findabehaviourist.php
  • Always ensure your dog has somewhere they can retreat to, where they will not be disturbed.
  • Pair the arrival of children with something that the dog doesn’t normally get, a tasty toy or chew but again ensure they have this where they will not be disturbed.
  • Help your dog out, if they are giving any of the above signals, redirect the child away from the dog, so the dog does not have to resort to growling, barking or biting to make the child go away.
  • Teach children the rules:
  1. When eating, resting and sleeping leave the dog alone.
  2. Dog must stay on the ground (No picking the dog up!).
  3. Adults manage unwanted behaviour in the dog, not children (No telling the dog off).
  4. No touching the dogs collar, no leading them around by it or pushing the dog around.
  5. Stroking must be on the dogs terms; ask the child to call the dog over, if the dog comes it probably is happy to be stroked but if it doesn’t come forward, leave the dog alone.
  6. When stroking the dog pause and see if the dog wants to move away, if they don’t carry on stroking.
  7. Stroking must be from collar to tail on the side or a scratch on the chest.
  8. If the children want to engage with the dog, let them hide a few treats or the dogs toy (if he is comfortable with that), around the house and get the dog to “find it”, always under adult supervision.

The Family Dog does some great videos to help children on appropriate behaviour around dogs see stopthe77.com

“What Dogs Like” is available in both paperback and digital on Amazon.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

A Walk to Remember

How stimulating is your dogs walk?

Is it round the block or the same park once a day?

Do you always take the same route?

Has your walks become predictable and stagnant?

The best way to know if your walk has become stagnant is by looking at your dog, does he avoid being put back on the lead, when you reach the car or a certain point on the walk? Along with predictable walks often comes poor recall. Does your dog on the walk, stick there heels in and want to go in a different direction. Does your dog know the route off by heart. If your dog pulls you all the way to the park, again the walk has become predictable as your dog knows you always go there.

Our dogs lives are very much dictated by us humans, we decide when they eat, play, at worse; when they have to sit and lie down and of course when they get the privilege to leave the confinement of the house and garden, and go for “their” walk. You may have a lovely big house with a large garden but it is vital that dogs as well as us get out the house and get stimulation from many different environments too. When we think of walking the dog, the main thing we often think about is exercise. For our dog however it is much more than that. It’s a chance to finally get out of the house, no matter how big or small your home is, it is still the same four walls your dog sees day in and day out, they cannot decide to leave, its all dictated by us, when and if we decide to take them. Think about it from a human perspective, when you are stuck in the house for one reason or another you can end up getting cabin fever. A walk for a dog means a chance to explore, take in new sights, smells, meet people, other dogs and much more. When you walk your dog try and keep one thing in mind “The walk is for your dog and he/she might need it more than you”. How we walk our dogs can have a huge impact on there mood state and can cause all-sorts of on lead problems, lead frustration, reactivity to other dogs, people and more.

When you start taking your dog just on round the block walks, you make the walk boring for your self, in turn the walk then becomes a chore “I have to walk the dog” exercise is important for dogs but so is the quality of walks, if your dog is not allowed to sniff, it’s not being naturally stimulated, studies have revealed that dogs get a lot of information from scent, such as when the last dog was about, what sex they were and more. If we constantly interrupt the sniffing, this makes the walk unpleasant and could make your dog anxious as its is not getting full information about the dogs that are around. Let the walk be about them. Variety is the spice of life, keep your walks interesting go to different places, woods, fields, canals, parks, lidos, journey in the car to different places, go in different directions. Walking in the same direction round in a circle in a park two or three times can be frustrating too, you walk round the path meet a dog, you walk on again then repeatedly meet the same dog, this can be frustrating for both dogs.

Now some of you may have a dog that does not like walks, they are fearful of cars, novelty, busy places, you may have a dog that is reactive to other dogs or people, these behaviours must be addressed for the health and well being of your dog, so please seek professional modern advice. These are behaviours that can be changed with the right person helping you, they should work with you at your dogs pace and help you both enjoy getting out again. If you don’t like the idea of letting your dog sniff because you have a dog that constantly picks things up of the floor, this may be because you have accidentally reinforced the behaviour, by making everything they picked up from a pup a big deal or they are not getting the opportunity to forage naturally see my Banish the Food Bowl blog for some ideas. If your dog is a puller find a good trainer to help you teach them to walk loosely on lead. If your dog has a condition which means it cannot walk for long, drive it to different places, if you also have a condition which means you cannot go far again either drive to new places or hire a dog walker

Don’t make your walk all about throwing a toy/ball for your dog either, this can actually keep their arousal levels high, which I typically hear from owners who says they have played for an hour and the dog comes home with as much energy as they went with. This kind of exercise is like going to the gym, when you have finished your work out, you are full of endorphins, which make you feel good and gives you more energy. Ball throwing can make some dogs obsessive and can stop them doing natural behaviours like sniffing and exploring. This in turn can also make them so obsessed that they pull all the way to the park rather than enjoying the journey too. This can then be a dog that is highly stressed out on the lead and can trigger other unwanted behaviour. Although it is vital to play with our dogs, throwing a ball is overused by us and is generally for our own convenience, to “exercise” the dog by us standing still, it is not a natural behaviour for them to be solely focused on a ball or toy of any sort. It often causes conflict/fights with other dogs in the park when your dog becomes possessive of it. It is normal for a dog to resource guard however it is not normal for your dog to resource aggress. I have spoken to a lot of physiotherapists and they say if they had their way they would ban ball play altogether, as it causes many injuries in dogs, sometimes that their owners are not even aware of, dogs are good at hiding pain. Dogs that are injured can act out of character and be more reactive generally. Now as mentioned it is crucial you still play with your dog, but you can play hide and seek with the ball instead, or hide and seek yourself so your dog has to find you as well, this game is a good way of strengthening recall.

Walks also where you take your dog for a jog/run with you or on a bike ride, also can be unpleasant for dogs, especially if this is the main way you walk them. On these kind of walks they are forced to run with you and can only generally stop when you decide, their arousal levels will also be high from this type of endurance exercise, it’s not particularly relaxing or stimulating, again make sure your dog is getting something out of this kind of walk.

A walk where your dog gets to investigate and explore is much more rewarding than a dog that is marched from A to B in a strict heel, when your dog is looking at you the whole time on the walk, who’s the walk benefiting, this is not the only way to stop your dog pulling their are other techniques out there, in fact in my time working with dogs, just changing the equipment the dog is walked on and allowing them to sniff has made a significant improvement to dogs that usually pull and ones that are reactive on lead. Those of you that know me, will know that for many years I have not taught heel walking and instead have taught loose lead walking, the dog still learns that pulling on the lead gets them no where and they are taught to correct their own behaviour. The compromise is that if they do not pull, they get to sniff what they like pretty much when they like. More about my lead walking technique in my later blog!

Now you can teach two different walks, as I am aware that some times you need to get to places with your dogs, you can teach one where you want there nose off the floor and one where they can sniff until there hearts content however make the no sniffing walk the exception rather than the rule!! Try not to take your dog out when you do not have much time or if you do, make the walk shorter but allowing them to sniff more, they will get more out of this kind of walk than a rushed stressful one.

You may feel you have no time for the kind of walks I am describing but you need to make time for the health and wellbeing of your dog, so miss that episode of Eastenders and make your dogs walk interesting.

Of course for those of you that already provide variety for you dogs, keep up the good work!

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.

Dog Behaviour, Dog Training, Puppy

Banish the Food Bowl

Providing dogs with appropriate mental and environmental stimulation is increasingly recognised as an important part of supporting their overall wellbeing. While enrichment on its own is unlikely to resolve complex behaviour challenges, research consistently shows that opportunities to forage, problem-solve, sniff and work for food can play a valuable role in reducing boredom, supporting emotional health and giving dogs appropriate outlets for natural behaviours.

One simple way to introduce more variety into a dogโ€™s day is through interactive feeding.

For many years, most dogs have been fed from a bowl once or twice daily because that suits our routines. Some dogs cope perfectly well with this, but others appear less enthusiastic taking food from the bowl to eat elsewhere, leaving meals unfinished, or grazing throughout the day. Feeding patterns can influence appetite, arousal levels and digestion, and many professionals now recommend splitting daily rations into multiple meals where possible.

When we look at dogsโ€™ evolutionary history, it isnโ€™t surprising that working for food appeals to many of them. Research into free-living dogs shows they typically spend much of their day scavenging and searching for small food opportunities rather than eating one predictable meal. Even wild canids invest far more time in seeking food than consuming it. Although most modern dogs live as companions, motivations to sniff, investigate and forage remain part of their behavioural repertoire something we see when dogs hover in the kitchen, raid bins, or vacuum up anything remotely edible on walks.

That doesnโ€™t mean we should encourage dogs to hunt wildlife or neighbourhood cats but it does suggest that providing safe, ethical alternatives can be worthwhile.

Stimulation Without Frustration

Interactive feeding should feel engaging, achievable and enjoyable for the dog. Current thinking around enrichment highlights the importance of matching activities to the individual: their age, physical health, emotional state, learning history and level of arousal, varying it regularly too is important once a dogs got the hang of it.

An activity that is too difficult, overly exciting or prolonged can tip some dogs into frustration or overstimulation rather than helping them settle. Likewise, food toys shouldnโ€™t be used simply to distract dogs from underlying anxiety, fear or difficulty relaxing those concerns deserve careful assessment and tailored behaviour support. In some cases, offering high-effort feeding activities at the wrong moment can actually increase agitation or make it harder for a dog to switch off.

The goal is not to exhaust dogs or mask problems, but to give them appropriate outlets alongside plenty of opportunities for rest, sleep and calm sniffing walks.

How Often Should Dogs Eat?

Many dogs appear to do well when their daily food is divided into at least two meals rather than offered as one large portion, although some individuals may genuinely prefer a single feed. Others seem to thrive on three or four smaller meals spread across the day, particularly when those meals are incorporated into low-pressure enrichment activities. What this looks like will depend on the individual dog and the household routine but mealtimes can become gentle opportunities for engagement rather than something rushed or highly repetitive.

Ideas for Interactive Feeding

Variety helps keep things interesting, and itโ€™s important to keep tasks achievableโ€”especially at first.

  • Scatter feeding: Toss dry food across the kitchen floor, lawn or a quiet patch on a walk (away from other dogs). Snuffle mats work in a similar way and can be homemade.
  • Hide and seek: Place small piles of food around a room or garden. Initially let your dog watch, then gradually hide them out of sight and add a cue like โ€œfind itโ€.
  • Food-dispensing toys: Classics such as Kongs or Squirrel Dudes can be used with loose kibble, soaked and frozen meals, or wet food. Multiple toys can be hidden around the house to extend the search. These can be useful when visitors arriveโ€”provided the dog finds them calming rather than over-arousing.
  • Commercial puzzle feeders: Options like wobblers or activity mats can be great, as long as they donโ€™t push the dog into frustration. If you notice frantic behaviour, vocalising or repeated abandoning of the toy, itโ€™s a sign the challenge may need adjusting.

Homemade Options (Always Supervised)

Many simple household items can be adapted for food-based enrichment, provided they suit the individual dog and are used with supervision. Remove items once empty and discontinue anything that could pose a choking or swallowing risk.

If your dog enjoys shredding or chewing, keep a close eye on them and remove items once empty. Stop completely if thereโ€™s any risk of swallowing pieces.

  • Snuffle mats
  • Refilled marrow bones
  • Slightly split tennis balls stuffed with food
  • Cardboard boxes layered with fleece, towels or cartons for dogs who enjoy digging and shredding
  • Blankets or towels rolled with treats between the folds
  • Clean, dry juice cartons with all plastic removed
  • Childrenโ€™s ball pits with food scattered among the balls
  • Hiding the food bowl or small piles of food for your dog to search for

Some dogs may need a little help at first to understand how food comes out of a new toy. Showing them once or twice is fine, but then allow them to experiment problem-solving is part of what makes these activities mentally engaging.

Put toys away when finished so they stay novel, and balance food-based enrichment with rest, downtime and low-key activities such as sniffy walks.

If youโ€™ve discovered enrichment ideas your dog loves, feel free to share them in the comments. Small changes to daily routines can make life more interesting and more comfortable for many dogs.

If youโ€™d like tailored support for your dog or puppy, you can book a call with me below.

If you would like to chat with me or get support with your dog or puppy book in a call with me below.